Nostalgia recipes from The Daily Meal

Sloppy Joe

Sloppy Joe from The Daily Meal. Photo credit iStock/LauriPatterson

Have you ever clicked on the Daily Meal link at the very bottom of our page? You should! In addition to supporting blogs like this one (members of the Culinary Content Network) they publish content, mostly aggregating existing recipes, that can point you in a creative direction if you’re looking for something new. Or old/forgotten, in the case of Vintage Recipes that No One Makes Anymore – But Should, a piece that ran earlier this week.

It’s about time we brought back oldies but goodies like Beef Stroganoff, Chicken Kiev and Salisbury Steak. Use the provided recipes as a jumping-off point for your own ideas or a web search rather than following them literally. The recipe for sweet and sour meatballs, for example, is from a juice company and the first ingredient is a bottle of their white grape juice. But this for Sloppy Joes looks pretty good. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 t olive oil
1 lb ground beef
Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
1 T garlic powder
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored and chopped
1 15-oz can tomato sauce
1/4 c ketchup
1 T Worcestershire sauce
4 Kaiser rolls or large hamburger buns, toasted

Method: sauté ground beef in olive oil over medium heat until browned, 8 minutes or so. Add onion and green pepper and cook until tender, stirring frequently. Pour off excess oil and add garlic powder, tomato sauce, ketchup and Worcestershire. Let the flavors blend over low heat for 5 minutes (it will thicken somewhat) then salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, over toasted buns.

P.S. Looking for more nostalgia recipes? Enter the phrase “Phi Beta Phi” in our sidebar search box to find our executions of dishes from my mother’s 1936 cookbook like Harvard Beets, Porcupines and of course Turkey Wiggle!

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Is Beer (Week) finished?

Beer Crowd at Saratoga Beer Week

Saratoga Beer Week opening event inside the OSB storeroom in 2013. The brewery is gone and the building is slated for demolition.

This week is Beer Week in Saratoga Springs. You can be forgiven for not noticing, because it’s down to two days, Friday and Saturday, February 21 and 22. And Friday is actually devoted to a cider tasting—that’s not beer! (The event has a new sponsor, Town Square America, and tickets are available here.)

Not happening are most of the satellite events which have made past Saratoga Beer Weeks a destination for lovers of craft brews. Olde Saratoga Brewery, a linchpin in early days, closed two years ago under tragic circumstances. Henry Street Taproom, which hosted elaborate Beer Week tastings including the Sour Hour we wrote about in 2015, is sitting this one out. Few restaurants are serving dinners themed around specialty beers, the notable exception being Pint Size which is offering a Rochester-style Garbage Plate along with a western New York tap takeover on Wednesday night, February 19.

How did this wonderful celebration of collegiality and creativity go off the rails? Lew Bryson, a Philadelphia-based spirits columnist who used to live in this area, answers it in two words: White Claw. Why go to the trouble of roasting barley, pitching yeast and waiting for your product to ferment when you can get a buzz by drinking fizzy water? Our Facebook friends, who are presumably people of intelligence and good taste, are saying terrible things like “nerdy and boring at the same time” and “I was thinking I might be done with beer.”

Russian River Beer Line

My friend Tony took this picture of the 5-hour line for Pliny the Younger at Russian River’s taproom last week. He didn’t stick around.

This may be a backlash against behavior like people happily driving across New England to Tree House Brewery in Massachusetts with no expectation there will be any beer left when they arrive, or going to Russian River in California where they released Pliny the Younger for takeout for the first time this year, resulting in a five-hour wait for a single bottle. But it has also produced wonderful strong, hazy IPAs that require a short drive and no waiting at our favorite beer store, EBI, as well as counterparts in Albany.

If you don’t like it, don’t drink it. Pretty simple. And if you want to make the most of this year’s stripped down event, Saratoga Arms is offering a two-night package that includes a beer breakfast on Saturday hosted by a Certified Cicerone and various “beer gifts” in the room. Best of all, they’re right across the street from the Saratoga Springs City Center where the events take place, so you can park your car until you and the street are safe on Sunday morning.

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Dreaming of Indi Chocolate

Indi Chocolate Team

The Andrews and their Indi products at 2020 Winter Fancy Food Show

Serendipitous discoveries are our favorite aspect of the giant Fancy Food Show. We missed a session on pairing tea and chocolate so stopped by to meet the presenters, Indi Chocolate. It turns out the tea/chocolate pairing is a sideline to a very robust chocolate business that was named as one of the 24 best chocolate shops in America by Eater.

Erin Andrews got involved in chocolate by going to Belize and sourcing cocoa butter for skin lotions. She branched out into fine eating chocolates and cocoa nibs which are now offered in innovative combinations including spice rubs with chocolate and teas with chocolate nibs. Their Pike Street Market store in Seattle offers classes, a café, specialty chocolate processing equipment and fortunately a website where you can order the products.

We tasted a chocolate chai at the show and it was excellent: quality, carefully chosen black tea with a bass note that was both bitter and sweet: chocolate. They sent us home with samples (loose, creatively wrapped, alarming to TSA inspectors) of their mole spice rub and orange tea with chocolate, which a local restaurant uses for tea-smoked duck served with fermented blueberries. Both the spice rubs and the teas can be ordered in individual flavors, or as an assortment.

If there is a chocolate lover in your life, an Indi gift box might be a good idea. They are just all over chocolate in the same way a pork producer (I think Farmer John?) claimed to use every part of the pig except the squeal. And if you happen to find yourself in Seattle, a single-origin drinking chocolate with a house-made marshmallow (50 cents extra) would not be a bad idea. Their shop is at In Pike Place Market on Western Ave. next to Old Stove Brewery and Honest Biscuits.

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The Mediterranean Diet… bogus, or lifesaving?

Mediterranean Diet Map

Mediterranean diet… bogus?

Internet trolls say the Mediterranean diet research is bogus, based on false information. But proponents insist the science is real, with profound health benefits to those who follow its dietary precepts. Who’s right? To dig a little deeper, we spent some time at an all-afternoon seminar called “The Science Behind the Mediterranean Diet” at the recent Fancy Food Show in San Francisco.

According to this study, “The traditional Mediterranean diet is characterized by a high intake of vegetables, fruits, nuts, legumes, and grains (mainly unrefined); a high intake of olive oil but a low intake of saturated lipids; a moderately high intake of fish; a low intake of dairy products, meat, and poultry; and a regular but moderate intake of alcohol (specifically wine with meals.” It’s the way people traditionally ate in the regions that border the Mediterranean Sea—but not entirely because many of the components, like tomatoes and peppers—were relatively recent arrivals from the New World.

The presenters at the Fancy Food Show were mostly academics, participants in a road show which has appeared at several venues under the aegis of mdrproject.com. We wish that website would provide some links and downloadable assets for those who want to learn more but can’t attend an event. But googling the participants provides some useful information.

Telomeres

Details of the research on telomeres and the Med Diet. Click the photo to blow up and read.

Immaculata De Vivo, Professor of Medicine at Harvard University, presented the study mentioned above which appeared in the British Medical Journal. This study found that switching to the Mediterranean diet can indeed prolong lives—not everyone, but those who have damaged telomeres as a result of lifestyle or diet. Telomeres are a component of DNA which shrink as we age; in the study the Mediterranean diet caused growth in people with damaged telomeres. Dr. De Vivo cautioned that the research does not show the same benefits for people without prematurely damaged telomeres.

As to the debunking aspect, the issue (not dealt with by this panel) is that the original Mediterranean Diet study included some sloppy science—subjects were not kept to the same standards in all groups analyzed, among a population of males in Spain. This does not automatically mean the results are wrong; as this New York Times article points out the original researchers withdrew their article but then re-published it with similar conclusions.

Vegetables, aromatics, maybe a little meat or fish, sautéed in quality olive oil and served with a glass of wine. We can buy into that—and take our chances as to whether it helps us live longer.

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Fun with fonio

Pierre Thiam

Pierre Thiam

Chef Pierre Thiam sent me home from the Fancy Food Show with a nice supply of fonio. His Yolélé Foods sources the grain from small farms In West Africa, where Thiam was born. Fonio is a tiny seed related to millet; the easiest way to cook it is with water or stock, then fluff it up like couscous and use as the base for a Mediterranean or African stew. (The grains are sold pre-washed and par-cooked so no husking or rinsing is required.)

Fonio cooked

Fonio cooked and fluffed, as a couscous equivalent

The cooked grain has a pleasant, nutty flavor reminiscent of couscous that’s been toasted before steaming. It’s low-glycemic and gluten-free, so a very attractive alternative to couscous (made with wheat) for those with food allergies. It’s not exactly cheap at $20 for 30 ounces on Amazon, but on the other hand that’s enough for perhaps 20 servings. (Also check your local food coop; mine has it for a little over $8 a pound.)

Fonio Nutrition Chart

Fonio is low-glycemic and gluten-free, with more nutrients than couscous or brown rice; double-click the image to read the captions.

Thiam is a multifaceted guy who is involved in restaurants in Nigeria and Senegal and is also co-owner of Teranga, a fast-casual place located in the Africa Center in Harlem. The menu there tends to one-dish meals, many on a base of fonio. He gave a TED talk on fonio which describes his vision to make the grain universally available while supporting the economy of the Sahal, the region in which it is grown. He has written two cookbooks, one of which is devoted to fonio and the other to Senegalese recipes.

Many of the recipes are available on the Yolélé website and not a few are aimed at western preferences, but Lamb Shanks with Rof Gremolata seems authentic. Lamb shanks are braised with onions, tomato paste, peanut butter and served over fonio pilaf with a modified gremolata, called rof. Check it out.

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Recipe: Senegalese Lamb Shank with Peanut Sauce on Fonio Pilaf

Senegalese Lamb Mafe

Senegalese Lamb Shank with Peanut Sauce on Fonio Pilaf

From From Senegal: Modern Senegalese Recipes from the Source to the Bowl, this recipe is  good way to showcase fonio as the base for a savory stew. Chef Pierre Thian explains that the gremolata is “a twist on our traditional rof, the parsley mixture we use to stuff the fish in thiebou jenn, our national dish of fish on rice. The heat from the Scotch bonnet and brightness of the lemon zest brilliantly lifts all the earthy flavors of the peanut sauce.” Serves six.

Ingredients:
2 T peanut or vegetable oil, plus more if needed
6 lamb shanks (about 1.25 pounds each)
2 T salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 c chopped yellow onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 T tomato paste, mixed with a few T water
2 quarts chicken stock or water
2 dried bay leaves
1 T finely chopped fresh thyme
1 c unsweetened smooth peanut butter
1 Scotch bonnet pepper
2 T Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce
Rof Gremolata (recipe follows), for serving
Spring Vegetable Fonio Pilaf (recipe follows), for serving

Method: heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Add the shanks a few at a time, without overcrowding. Brown them well on all sides, about 8 minutes, and set aside on a plate. Repeat until all the shanks are nicely browned, adding more oil if necessary.

In the same pan, brown the onions. Reduce the heat to low and add the minced garlic. Stir well, then add the diluted tomato paste. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 7 to 10 minutes, until a deep, dark red. Add another tablespoon or two of water to prevent scorching, if needed.

Add the stock, raise the heat, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the bay leaves, thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Slowly add the peanut butter 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring constantly to dissolve it in the liquid.

Return the shanks to the pot, pressing down to submerge them in the sauce. Add the Scotch bonnet and fish sauce. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, until the shanks are tender.
Uncover the pot and continue cooking until the sauce is thick and coats the back of a spoon. Remove the bay leaves and skim off the fat. Adjust the seasoning.
›› Serve the lamb shanks and sauce hot, on a platter. Top each shank with a generous pinch of gremolata and serve with a side of fonio pilaf.

ROF GREMOLATA
Makes about 1 cup

Italian gremolata, a condiment traditionally made with herbs, lemon zest, and garlic, meets Senegalese rof in this fresh, flavor-packed topping.

Ingredients:
1 bunch parsley, leaves finely chopped
3 scallions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄2 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and finely chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method: gently combine the parsley, scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

SPRING VEGETABLE FONIO PILAF
Serves 4

This simple fonio pilaf makes the perfect side dish for Lamb Shank Mafé or any other main dish that needs a healthy grain to sop up its sauce. I use spring vegetables in this version, but feel free to adapt to whatever is in season.

2 T olive oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
1⁄2 c vegetable stock or chicken stock
1⁄2 lb zucchini, trimmed
1⁄2 lb asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1⁄2-inch lengths
1⁄4 cup fresh or frozen green peas
2 c cooked Yolélé fonio
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method: heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook until soft but not brown. Add the garlic and carrot and cook for another 3 minutes, until the garlic is fragrant. Add the stock and simmer, covered, until the carrot is tender, about 10 minutes.

Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise, then into 1/2-inch pieces. Add the asparagus and zucchini to the pot and cook 5 minutes, until tender. Add the peas and cook for about 1 minute more. Fold in the fonio and scallions. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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On the ground at Saratoga Chowderfest 2020

Salt and Char Chowderfest Crowd

As usual, the longest lines at Saratoga Chowderfest 2020 was at Salt & Char. Not particularly memorable chowder after the wait.

Saratoga Chowderfest 2020 is now history, so I am revising this post. It’s worth leaving up as a chronicle of the complaints from locals and specifically from those in the food industry. “Gave me hives…. nightmare…. the worst… not a chance… nnnooooope” are typical comments on this Facebook thread which got 25 responses and nary a positive word.

The problem was not the size of the portions or the creativity of the chefs, but rather the hordes of visitors who took it on themselves to get as drunk as possible as early in the day as possible. I heard from a local news source that Chowderfest now draws bigger crowds than Travers weekend during the racing season, and these visitors are not here to sip the waters or catch the ballet at SPAC. A photo went viral of a young woman relieving herself in the doorway of a restaurant building (with a public restroom available in the library, not 100 feet away) and when we ventured out at 6 pm for an excellent early dinner at Dominic Colose’s Amuse on Broadway, the hollering, lurching and friends-propping-up-drunk-friends atmosphere was palpable.

But we’ll return next year in spite of all this, and you should too as long as you follow our simple rules. Get there at 11 am if you can, when serving begins, and plan to finish no later than 1 pm. If you’re driving, leave your vehicle at one of the shuttle locations (Saratoga Casino and Wilton Mall this year) instead of the madness of trying to get a parking spot in town.

Seneca Chowder

Best of the day was Seneca’s grilled shrimp chowder with ‘Nduja foam.

This year we tasted 7 chowders in about an hour. Best was Seneca, the wood fired place, where we also got to take a close look at their massive adjustable grill. As a bonus, it’s off Broadway so the line was much shorter. (If you want lines, stick to Broadway and Caroline.)

Seneca Grill

Wood Fired Grill at Seneca

Do a search for “Chowderfest” at right for previous years’ posts with many more tips for surviving this annual event. At its heart it is still a chance to see what kitchens that throw themselves into the project can do with a few ingredients and a dixie cup. For the reasonable investment of a dollar bill, you can be introduced to places that you might never have visited on your own. (We went back at 6 to Solevo for their dollar oysters–“they’re big” the receptionist promised–and all day happy hour; oysters were done and the bar was too packed to enter, but the oysters return on Wednesdays and so shall we.)

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Hot and Not at the 2020 Winter Fancy Food Show

We’re just back from the 2020 Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco, where the focus as you might expect was on “plant-based” everything. Impossible and Beyond weren’t there, but there were plenty of meat alternatives as well as products that never had any animal protein to begin with jumping on the bandwagon. We have several reports coming up, but first a quick look at the products that caught our eye.


Oat milk products were everywhere, and why not? It’s delicious, adaptable and completely meat- and dairy-free. It’s also quite high in sugar, but never mind.


Fat Bombs are the ultimate keto snack, with 3g protein and 9 g fat per serving. Not in love with the name, though, and the high fat content gave it a greasy mouthfeel.


Like cake? Like popcorn? Here’s a popcorn cake, embedded with confetti sprinkles.


The Jelly Belly folks always come up with a new novelty snack. This time it was a tasting challenge of five increasingly hot chile flavors, from jalapeño to Carolina Reaper. We only made it as far as Sriracha.


Crapola finds a new benefit, regularity, in a tired product category, granola. They were passing out “I pooped today” bumper stickers.


Calabrese chilis are a thing, both whole like this display and ground. Add the to a pasta dish. The only problem I found was that they varied widely in heat level, so taste before you serve.


An example of bandwagon-jumping. Pasta is made with wheat, so of course it’s plant-based!


This private-label tequila company came up with some terrific bottle designs with a Day of the Dead motif. They also had some awesome aged mezcal hidden under the counter.


Matcha was big, as was tea in general. Also lot of mochi ice cream. A former trend that was hardly visible: quinoa.

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Recipe: Chinese-Style Pulled Pork

Chinese-Style Pulled Pork

Chinese-Style Pulled Pork, just waiting to be paired up with some Thai-Style Cole Slaw

Chinese-Style Pulled Pork is a natural for the Instant Pot, cooking to melting tenderness in just an hour. We started with this recipe but added a sweet-and-sour element plus star anise which gives it the funk of a HK noodle dish. The natural accompaniment is, of course, a cole slaw with Asian flavors like this one. Makes enough to feed a crowd, 12 servings or so.

Ingredients:
1 pork shoulder, approx 4 lbs, cut in half (if it has a blade bone that’s a natural point of separation)
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup chicken stock or water
1/2 cup soy sauce
¼ c Chinkiang vinegar or unsweetened rice vinegar or white vinegar
¼ c Shaoxing wine (optional)
¼ c oyster sauce (optional)
¼ c brown sugar
2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin
8-10 garlic cloves, peeled
2 t powdered cumin
2 t paprika (use smoky Spanish paprika if you have it)
1 t five spice powder
3 heads star anise
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 T cornstarch

Method: pat dry the pork roast and salt and pepper liberally. Add oil to the inner bowl of the Instant Pot and heat on Sauté setting. Brown the pork in two batches, turning so all sides come into contact with the oil and get a crispy sear. Remove to a plate and add onion, garlic and ginger. Sauté till fragrant then add cumin, paprika, five spice and star anise and heat till fragrant, stirring frequently. Turn off Instant Pot.

Add liquids and brown sugar and stir to dissolve sugar. Add pork and seal; pressure cook on high for 60 minutes with natural release.

When done, pork will be falling apart tender. Remove the pieces carefully to a chopping board and chop into bite size pieces, discarding bone and outer layer of fat. Strain solids out of the cooking stock and return it to the Instant Pot. Use Sauté setting to reduce somewhat. Remove a small amount of stock to a cup and mix with 2 T cornstarch till thoroughly emulsified without lumps. Add more liquid from the stock to create a smooth slurry, then return this to the Instant Pot and thicken, stirring constantly. Pour over reserved pork in a bowl and serve, over rice or in a Chinese style pulled pork sandwich with Asian cole slaw on a bun.

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Cavender’s Greek Seasoning

Cavenders Greek Seasoning

We’ve been using Cavender’s Greek Seasoning since the 80s at least, and the artwork on the label has not changed in all that time. The chef appears to be sticking a fork in the steak with his left hand and shaking on seasoning with his right. It’s anybody’s guess what those white things are on the grill; hopefully they are not folds of his jacket.

Cavender’s Greek Seasoning is something we always have in our kitchen. Although it’s advertised as the only seasoning you need, we mainly use it on grilled meats, especially steaks. An ideal prep will have Cavender’s on one side of the steak, Burger House Seasoning Salt on the other.

So what is this versatile stuff? It comes not from Greece but from a remote corner of the Ozarks. And, though the artwork makes it look like it’s been around forever, in fact it was introduced a mere 50 years ago. Spike Cavender grew up in Texas and Oklahoma and loved to hunt wild game; he developed this mix as a seasoning for his bounty. He and his wife moved to the Ozarks to take advantage of the outdoor environment and started producing it for sale in 1969.

The ingredients in order are salt, black pepper, corn starch, garlic, MSG, oregano, flavor base seasoning (hydrolyzed soy protein, sugar, onion powder spice extractives), parsley and “five other spices.” The cornstarch is undetectable and you wonder why others (like Burger House) don’t use it to keep their product from clumping. And it’s heartwarming, if you love MSG as we do, to see it as the fifth ingredient. As to the mysterious “five other spices”, our guess is they include a bitter herb (mint or oregano) and thyme, though this copycat recipe adds cinnamon and nutmeg.

Cavendar’s is still a one-product company (unless you count a salt-free version of the seasoning) yet they manage to have nationwide distribution in a way that other specialty products, like Durkee’s, finds challenging. If your local stores don’t carry it, you can order multiple packs from the source or get a single package, enough to last a very long time, for under $5 on Amazon with Prime shipping. It’s well worth checking out, and you might want to try it on vegetables as well as a mix-in for gyro meat (ground lamb or beef or a combination).

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