Recipe: Poppyseed Cole Slaw

Poppyseed Cole Slaw

Poppyseed Cole Slaw, after Micklethwait Craft Meats

At Micklethwait Craft Meats in Austin, the sides are as good as the BBQ. This Poppyseed Cole Slaw is an example. It’s probably not a perfect ringer for the slaw I experienced last weekend, but they vary their own recipes so that’s okay. It is light and refreshing, a bit sweet, and goes beautifully with grilled meats as you might expect. Makes 16 servings.

Ingredients:
1 medium head green cabbage, or a combination of green and red
1 bunch dino or curly kale, de-stemmed and shredded (about 2 c)
¼ c mayonnaise
¼ c buttermilk (full fat if available)
¼ c red onion, shredded (optional)
2 T honey
2 T cider vinegar
2 T poppyseeds
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: mix vinegar and honey in a bowl until honey is dissolved. Add mayo, buttermilk and poppyseeds and stir to combine. Shred cabbage (we use the coarse cut on a box grater) and mix thoroughly with the dressing along with kale and onion. Taste for seasoning; it may not need salt or pepper. Chill at least 2 hours before serving.

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Recipe: Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables (ye’atakilt alicha)

Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables

Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables

Another well-balanced recipe from the wonderful Teff Love cookbook; our only modification was adding a bit of liquid. Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables make a nice texture contrast to puréed items on your injera. The spicing is subtle enough that you can serve to people who don’t like Ethiopian food (of which there seem to be quite a few) and they won’t suspect a thing. Makes 8 servings when presented as part of an Ethiopian combination plate.

Ingredients:
½ green cabbage, chopped in 1-inch chunks
¾ lb thin-skinned potatoes (about 2 c), skin on, cut into bite-sized chunks
¼ lb carrots (about 1 c), peeled and cut into ¾ inch slices
¼ c Niter Kibbeh or vegan equivalent (same spices, but made with vegetable oil rather than clarified butter) or olive oil
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 t peeled and grated fresh ginger
¼ t ground cardamom
½ water or stock (chicken or veg)
¾ t salt, plus more if desired
2 jalapeño chiles, seeded, veined, and quartered lengthwise
Freshly ground black pepper

Method: melt the niter kibbeh and toss with all ingredients except water, salt and jalapeños until spices are well distributed. Spread in a flat roasting pan and pour over water or stock; cover with a lid or foil and bake in a 425 degree oven for 35 minutes. Remove cover and add jalapeños and salt; cook another 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Serve hot.

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The self-serve condiments conundrum

Condiment Horror at BWI

Self-serve condiments counter at BGR at BWI. Why does the customer have to do all the work?

Yesterday we had lunch in the B concourse of BWI airport in Baltimore. We chose BGR, a joint that advertised itself as “the best burger in DC” so we are allowed to hold them to high standards. We ordered the standard cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato and onions. Asking about mustard, we were told there are self-serve condiments  “over there”.

The burger was a big wad of meat, the onions were caramelized (not upon request) and the lettuce and tomato were as expected. Then we proceeded to the condiment area where we could choose from an array of mustards (Dijon as well as yellow), packets of salt and pepper, packets of mayo and relish and a couple of mystery items. Tearing into the multiple packets to get enough to prep our burger, we were struck by how inconvenient, irritating and even demeaning the process is: making the customer root around like a pig for kitchen scraps instead of properly preparing the food to order. We understand food safety and the exponential training that would probably be required to dress each item to the customer’s order, but would be willing to accept any additional time or cost. (Though BGR was not exactly bottom feeding at $8.79 for a standard cheeseburger.)

Chicago 7 Dog

Chicago 7 dog promises to make us happy.

In the future, when we see that an establishment has a self-service condiments area like the one pictured here, we shall pass. Where will we go instead? Not the dreadful Obrycki’s crab shack across the hall. On our return trip we will stop at the DC3 hot dog stand which, as you can see from the snap we took of their Chicago 7 (sic) dog on the menu, comes with the full allotment of sport peppers, neon relish and celery salt. We explained we had already eaten but would be back on Saturday. “We will make you happy,” the counter person promised, and we believe they will.

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Last thoughts on the Winter 2020 Fancy Food Show

Chocolate and Plants

Upscale chocolates and plant-based foods shared space at the Winter Fancy Food Show.

It seems a lifetime since international vendors packed Moscone Convention Center in San Francisco for the Winter Fancy Food Show, which ran January 19-21. Currently many borders are on lockdown because of the COVID-19 virus, with neither people nor goods able to move. But our prediction is we’ll get through this, and sooner than we expect.

The president of the Specialty Food Association opened the seminar I attended on the Mediterranean diet, and I learned the west coast FFS was added to the much older New York event as a way for importers to make contact with American retailers. I first attended in the early 1990s when I was doing some work with Harry & David; their buyers were looking for unique jarred sauces and jams to incorporate into gift baskets.

Over the years the number of jarred vs fresh, fermented or frozen items has dwindled, but the underlying mission has not changed. “Fancy” food is food that’s unusual enough, by whatever definition, that consumers will pay a premium for it and make it worthwhile for retailers to source products at the show.

This year we had a specialty pavilion of high end chocolate next to a pavilion of plant-based products. On the face of it, two categories as different as they could be. But both are catering to a customer who is looking for something new.

One year, I was astonished to find the wife of my high school Great Books teacher, presenting her line of home-baked Jewish pastries. She didn’t return but a similar business with big ideas, Les Trois Couchons, is an example of a specialty foods distributor growing from a single location to nationwide distribution. Each year I see them at the show and each year they have more products and more traffic.

We were at the first show where Serrano ham was legally available in the US and people stood in line for it. Today it seems there’s a handsome ham on display in every aisle. We’ve seen foie gras get banned, let back in, then banned again. We like to report on these changing trends and there’s always something new.

Amanda Little at FFS

Vanderbilt professor Amanda Little led a packed session on sustainable food alternatives in the face of climate change.

Food is a vehicle for bringing people together, including the vendors and retailers who come to the show. They like to work face-to-face rather than virtually, like most of us these days, and every booth seems to have a small meeting table where serious prospects or customers can sample wares. It’s inspiring to see how food can mean so much to so many. At the end of each show I’m full and exhausted, but within a few days I’m looking forward to the next one.

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Nostalgia recipes from The Daily Meal

Sloppy Joe

Sloppy Joe from The Daily Meal. Photo credit iStock/LauriPatterson

Have you ever clicked on the Daily Meal link at the very bottom of our page? You should! In addition to supporting blogs like this one (members of the Culinary Content Network) they publish content, mostly aggregating existing recipes, that can point you in a creative direction if you’re looking for something new. Or old/forgotten, in the case of Vintage Recipes that No One Makes Anymore – But Should, a piece that ran earlier this week.

It’s about time we brought back oldies but goodies like Beef Stroganoff, Chicken Kiev and Salisbury Steak. Use the provided recipes as a jumping-off point for your own ideas or a web search rather than following them literally. The recipe for sweet and sour meatballs, for example, is from a juice company and the first ingredient is a bottle of their white grape juice. But this for Sloppy Joes looks pretty good. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 t olive oil
1 lb ground beef
Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
1 T garlic powder
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored and chopped
1 15-oz can tomato sauce
1/4 c ketchup
1 T Worcestershire sauce
4 Kaiser rolls or large hamburger buns, toasted

Method: sauté ground beef in olive oil over medium heat until browned, 8 minutes or so. Add onion and green pepper and cook until tender, stirring frequently. Pour off excess oil and add garlic powder, tomato sauce, ketchup and Worcestershire. Let the flavors blend over low heat for 5 minutes (it will thicken somewhat) then salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, over toasted buns.

P.S. Looking for more nostalgia recipes? Enter the phrase “Phi Beta Phi” in our sidebar search box to find our executions of dishes from my mother’s 1936 cookbook like Harvard Beets, Porcupines and of course Turkey Wiggle!

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Is Beer (Week) finished?

Beer Crowd at Saratoga Beer Week

Saratoga Beer Week opening event inside the OSB storeroom in 2013. The brewery is gone and the building is slated for demolition.

This week is Beer Week in Saratoga Springs. You can be forgiven for not noticing, because it’s down to two days, Friday and Saturday, February 21 and 22. And Friday is actually devoted to a cider tasting—that’s not beer! (The event has a new sponsor, Town Square America, and tickets are available here.)

Not happening are most of the satellite events which have made past Saratoga Beer Weeks a destination for lovers of craft brews. Olde Saratoga Brewery, a linchpin in early days, closed two years ago under tragic circumstances. Henry Street Taproom, which hosted elaborate Beer Week tastings including the Sour Hour we wrote about in 2015, is sitting this one out. Few restaurants are serving dinners themed around specialty beers, the notable exception being Pint Size which is offering a Rochester-style Garbage Plate along with a western New York tap takeover on Wednesday night, February 19.

How did this wonderful celebration of collegiality and creativity go off the rails? Lew Bryson, a Philadelphia-based spirits columnist who used to live in this area, answers it in two words: White Claw. Why go to the trouble of roasting barley, pitching yeast and waiting for your product to ferment when you can get a buzz by drinking fizzy water? Our Facebook friends, who are presumably people of intelligence and good taste, are saying terrible things like “nerdy and boring at the same time” and “I was thinking I might be done with beer.”

Russian River Beer Line

My friend Tony took this picture of the 5-hour line for Pliny the Younger at Russian River’s taproom last week. He didn’t stick around.

This may be a backlash against behavior like people happily driving across New England to Tree House Brewery in Massachusetts with no expectation there will be any beer left when they arrive, or going to Russian River in California where they released Pliny the Younger for takeout for the first time this year, resulting in a five-hour wait for a single bottle. But it has also produced wonderful strong, hazy IPAs that require a short drive and no waiting at our favorite beer store, EBI, as well as counterparts in Albany.

If you don’t like it, don’t drink it. Pretty simple. And if you want to make the most of this year’s stripped down event, Saratoga Arms is offering a two-night package that includes a beer breakfast on Saturday hosted by a Certified Cicerone and various “beer gifts” in the room. Best of all, they’re right across the street from the Saratoga Springs City Center where the events take place, so you can park your car until you and the street are safe on Sunday morning.

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Dreaming of Indi Chocolate

Indi Chocolate Team

The Andrews and their Indi products at 2020 Winter Fancy Food Show

Serendipitous discoveries are our favorite aspect of the giant Fancy Food Show. We missed a session on pairing tea and chocolate so stopped by to meet the presenters, Indi Chocolate. It turns out the tea/chocolate pairing is a sideline to a very robust chocolate business that was named as one of the 24 best chocolate shops in America by Eater.

Erin Andrews got involved in chocolate by going to Belize and sourcing cocoa butter for skin lotions. She branched out into fine eating chocolates and cocoa nibs which are now offered in innovative combinations including spice rubs with chocolate and teas with chocolate nibs. Their Pike Street Market store in Seattle offers classes, a café, specialty chocolate processing equipment and fortunately a website where you can order the products.

We tasted a chocolate chai at the show and it was excellent: quality, carefully chosen black tea with a bass note that was both bitter and sweet: chocolate. They sent us home with samples (loose, creatively wrapped, alarming to TSA inspectors) of their mole spice rub and orange tea with chocolate, which a local restaurant uses for tea-smoked duck served with fermented blueberries. Both the spice rubs and the teas can be ordered in individual flavors, or as an assortment.

If there is a chocolate lover in your life, an Indi gift box might be a good idea. They are just all over chocolate in the same way a pork producer (I think Farmer John?) claimed to use every part of the pig except the squeal. And if you happen to find yourself in Seattle, a single-origin drinking chocolate with a house-made marshmallow (50 cents extra) would not be a bad idea. Their shop is at In Pike Place Market on Western Ave. next to Old Stove Brewery and Honest Biscuits.

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The Mediterranean Diet… bogus, or lifesaving?

Mediterranean Diet Map

Mediterranean diet… bogus?

Internet trolls say the Mediterranean diet research is bogus, based on false information. But proponents insist the science is real, with profound health benefits to those who follow its dietary precepts. Who’s right? To dig a little deeper, we spent some time at an all-afternoon seminar called “The Science Behind the Mediterranean Diet” at the recent Fancy Food Show in San Francisco.

According to this study, “The traditional Mediterranean diet is characterized by a high intake of vegetables, fruits, nuts, legumes, and grains (mainly unrefined); a high intake of olive oil but a low intake of saturated lipids; a moderately high intake of fish; a low intake of dairy products, meat, and poultry; and a regular but moderate intake of alcohol (specifically wine with meals.” It’s the way people traditionally ate in the regions that border the Mediterranean Sea—but not entirely because many of the components, like tomatoes and peppers—were relatively recent arrivals from the New World.

The presenters at the Fancy Food Show were mostly academics, participants in a road show which has appeared at several venues under the aegis of mdrproject.com. We wish that website would provide some links and downloadable assets for those who want to learn more but can’t attend an event. But googling the participants provides some useful information.

Telomeres

Details of the research on telomeres and the Med Diet. Click the photo to blow up and read.

Immaculata De Vivo, Professor of Medicine at Harvard University, presented the study mentioned above which appeared in the British Medical Journal. This study found that switching to the Mediterranean diet can indeed prolong lives—not everyone, but those who have damaged telomeres as a result of lifestyle or diet. Telomeres are a component of DNA which shrink as we age; in the study the Mediterranean diet caused growth in people with damaged telomeres. Dr. De Vivo cautioned that the research does not show the same benefits for people without prematurely damaged telomeres.

As to the debunking aspect, the issue (not dealt with by this panel) is that the original Mediterranean Diet study included some sloppy science—subjects were not kept to the same standards in all groups analyzed, among a population of males in Spain. This does not automatically mean the results are wrong; as this New York Times article points out the original researchers withdrew their article but then re-published it with similar conclusions.

Vegetables, aromatics, maybe a little meat or fish, sautéed in quality olive oil and served with a glass of wine. We can buy into that—and take our chances as to whether it helps us live longer.

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Fun with fonio

Pierre Thiam

Pierre Thiam

Chef Pierre Thiam sent me home from the Fancy Food Show with a nice supply of fonio. His Yolélé Foods sources the grain from small farms In West Africa, where Thiam was born. Fonio is a tiny seed related to millet; the easiest way to cook it is with water or stock, then fluff it up like couscous and use as the base for a Mediterranean or African stew. (The grains are sold pre-washed and par-cooked so no husking or rinsing is required.)

Fonio cooked

Fonio cooked and fluffed, as a couscous equivalent

The cooked grain has a pleasant, nutty flavor reminiscent of couscous that’s been toasted before steaming. It’s low-glycemic and gluten-free, so a very attractive alternative to couscous (made with wheat) for those with food allergies. It’s not exactly cheap at $20 for 30 ounces on Amazon, but on the other hand that’s enough for perhaps 20 servings. (Also check your local food coop; mine has it for a little over $8 a pound.)

Fonio Nutrition Chart

Fonio is low-glycemic and gluten-free, with more nutrients than couscous or brown rice; double-click the image to read the captions.

Thiam is a multifaceted guy who is involved in restaurants in Nigeria and Senegal and is also co-owner of Teranga, a fast-casual place located in the Africa Center in Harlem. The menu there tends to one-dish meals, many on a base of fonio. He gave a TED talk on fonio which describes his vision to make the grain universally available while supporting the economy of the Sahal, the region in which it is grown. He has written two cookbooks, one of which is devoted to fonio and the other to Senegalese recipes.

Many of the recipes are available on the Yolélé website and not a few are aimed at western preferences, but Lamb Shanks with Rof Gremolata seems authentic. Lamb shanks are braised with onions, tomato paste, peanut butter and served over fonio pilaf with a modified gremolata, called rof. Check it out.

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Recipe: Senegalese Lamb Shank with Peanut Sauce on Fonio Pilaf

Senegalese Lamb Mafe

Senegalese Lamb Shank with Peanut Sauce on Fonio Pilaf

From From Senegal: Modern Senegalese Recipes from the Source to the Bowl, this recipe is  good way to showcase fonio as the base for a savory stew. Chef Pierre Thian explains that the gremolata is “a twist on our traditional rof, the parsley mixture we use to stuff the fish in thiebou jenn, our national dish of fish on rice. The heat from the Scotch bonnet and brightness of the lemon zest brilliantly lifts all the earthy flavors of the peanut sauce.” Serves six.

Ingredients:
2 T peanut or vegetable oil, plus more if needed
6 lamb shanks (about 1.25 pounds each)
2 T salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 c chopped yellow onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 T tomato paste, mixed with a few T water
2 quarts chicken stock or water
2 dried bay leaves
1 T finely chopped fresh thyme
1 c unsweetened smooth peanut butter
1 Scotch bonnet pepper
2 T Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce
Rof Gremolata (recipe follows), for serving
Spring Vegetable Fonio Pilaf (recipe follows), for serving

Method: heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Add the shanks a few at a time, without overcrowding. Brown them well on all sides, about 8 minutes, and set aside on a plate. Repeat until all the shanks are nicely browned, adding more oil if necessary.

In the same pan, brown the onions. Reduce the heat to low and add the minced garlic. Stir well, then add the diluted tomato paste. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 7 to 10 minutes, until a deep, dark red. Add another tablespoon or two of water to prevent scorching, if needed.

Add the stock, raise the heat, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the bay leaves, thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Slowly add the peanut butter 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring constantly to dissolve it in the liquid.

Return the shanks to the pot, pressing down to submerge them in the sauce. Add the Scotch bonnet and fish sauce. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, until the shanks are tender.
Uncover the pot and continue cooking until the sauce is thick and coats the back of a spoon. Remove the bay leaves and skim off the fat. Adjust the seasoning.
›› Serve the lamb shanks and sauce hot, on a platter. Top each shank with a generous pinch of gremolata and serve with a side of fonio pilaf.

ROF GREMOLATA
Makes about 1 cup

Italian gremolata, a condiment traditionally made with herbs, lemon zest, and garlic, meets Senegalese rof in this fresh, flavor-packed topping.

Ingredients:
1 bunch parsley, leaves finely chopped
3 scallions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄2 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and finely chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method: gently combine the parsley, scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

SPRING VEGETABLE FONIO PILAF
Serves 4

This simple fonio pilaf makes the perfect side dish for Lamb Shank Mafé or any other main dish that needs a healthy grain to sop up its sauce. I use spring vegetables in this version, but feel free to adapt to whatever is in season.

2 T olive oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
1⁄2 c vegetable stock or chicken stock
1⁄2 lb zucchini, trimmed
1⁄2 lb asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1⁄2-inch lengths
1⁄4 cup fresh or frozen green peas
2 c cooked Yolélé fonio
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method: heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook until soft but not brown. Add the garlic and carrot and cook for another 3 minutes, until the garlic is fragrant. Add the stock and simmer, covered, until the carrot is tender, about 10 minutes.

Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise, then into 1/2-inch pieces. Add the asparagus and zucchini to the pot and cook 5 minutes, until tender. Add the peas and cook for about 1 minute more. Fold in the fonio and scallions. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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