AYCE strategy for 2026

Fishers Main Buffet

Fisher’s buffet in Intercourse, PA. AYCE strategy: hit the meatloaf and ignore the rest.

I am afraid my AYCE strategy days are over. I still frequent the excellent Wasabi here in Saratoga Springs where the weekday lunch is under $20, but can no longer eat my weight in food. I have a number of the nigiri or hand rolls which are basically fish over rice, eschewing the fancy sauced rolls. Add a couple bowls of seaweed salad and a miso soup and I’m done.

But for those still in the game, here is an excellent article on Eater with lots of good ideas in NYC and nationwide. New trend: pay a premium to eat a menu which would be costly under any circumstances, and gorge yourself with omakase or wagyu beef in a limited time window. The writer was inspired by the Never-Ending Pasta Bowl TikTok which is one of the worst ideas in AYCE strategy because it avoids the proteins in favor of pastas and, FFS breadsticks, full of fill-me-up carbs that have restaurants stuffing their pockets with your money.

Connoisseur Tent

Our buffet strategy works at the high-end places too.

Sadly, the absence of international and more recently Canadian tourists has dealt a crippling blow to Las Vegas buffets. The Buffet of Buffets is no more but our strategy still applies to your local AYCE mecca if there is one: dive straight into the cold station, load your plate with appealing salads and pickly things, then swing for the fences with a lean protein. Bon appetit!

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Making perilla kimchi with Maangchi

Maangchi Perilla Kimchi

Maangchi Perilla Kimchi.

Our shiso plants started going to seed during a hot spell following a cool spell. While the seeds are developing, the leaves turn leathery and then brown and are no longer edible. We needed to rescue the viable leaves before it was too late.

In the past we’ve preserved our shiso by drying or freezing the leaves with middling success; the sharp distinctive flavor fades in comparison to the flavor of mint, which we also dry for tabbouleh. Time to make shiso kimchi, or rather perilla kimchi, with Korean food maven Maangchi.

Late Shiso

By early September, our shiso has gone to seed.

We have made a variety of kimchis and are aware that perilla (the Korean name for shiso) kimchi is popular in Korean cuisine. But the instructions call for painting  every other leaf with pickling paste which, though the process might seem meditative to a Korean imo (auntie) it felt unbearably tedious to us. Our solution: mix the paste in a big metal bowl and start stacking the leaves on top of it; flip the stack every few leaves to expose the top leaf to paste. This worked and, even though the amount of paste seemed tiny, we ended up with a bit extra for the top layer.

Here is her recipe which we prefer to this recipe we made a couple years back; it has a perfect salty/sweet/savory balance and the little carrot matchsticks are a bonus. We had only 50 or so viable leaves so made 1/3 of her recipe which ended up about half a cup of stacked leaves. After a few days of curing, the leaves had become saturated with liquid and were intensely flavorful. Perilla kimchi does not last indefinitely so we look forward to enjoying our supply over the next few weeks.

By the way, in googling perilla kimchi you’ll probably run across the viral perilla kimchi controversy, which goes like this: a girl on a first date struggles to separate a leaf of perilla from a very densely stacked kimchi. Her date reaches out his chopsticks, a very personal item, to help her. Was this appropriate chivalry or an unacceptable intrusion into her personal space? You decide!

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Recipe: Campisi Style Salad Dressing

Campisi Salad

Campisi Style Salad with dressing.

Campisi’s is an Italian restaurant in Dallas which, for reasons explained below, my family always assumed was Egyptian. Alex of The Defined Dish claims she’s copied the recipe for their house salad dressing which, though we don’t have the original product to compare, is an interesting take on a traditional vinaigrette. Don’t be concerned by the lopsided vinegar/oil ratio; it somehow works in the finished salad. Makes ¾ c, enough for one large family salad to be shared by 4-6.

Ingredients:
1/3 c white vinegar
3 T extra virgin olive oil
2 T grated Parmesan cheese
1 T pepperoncini brine*
1 T olive brine*
1 garlic clove, minced
½ t white sugar
½ t kosher salt
½ t ground black pepper

Method: combine all ingredients and whisk to emulsify. Dress lettuce leaves (she uses iceberg) and toss with some chopped green olives, sliced green onions, and lots more of the parm. Serve immediately. Note: this dressing will not keep overnight because the parm clumps in the vinegar when chilled.

Trader Joe Parm

Have you tried this parm from Trader Joe? Really good and funky.

*These definitions are obviously subjective and depend on the pepperoncinis and olives you are using but assume the pepperoncini brine is vinegar with a bit of heat and the olive brine is vinegar with a herbaceous element.

The Campisi backstory: my family avoided this nearby place because they thought it actually was Egyptian and they didn’t like exotic cuisines. In fact Papa Campisi purchased an existing place called the Egyptian Lounge and for whatever reason kept half the sign and added his own name. They claim to have introduced pizza to Dallas in 1946. Jack Ruby, killer of Lee Harvey Oswald, was a regular and dined there the night before Oswald assassinated JFK. The Campisis later visited him in jail.

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Common mistakes making tortillas at home

Tortillas

Finished product, after correcting a few common mistakes making tortillas at home.

What’s your definition of a fun project? Perhaps failing miserably through common mistakes in making tortillas on your first try, then succeeding gloriously on your second? That’s what happened when I finally made tortillas using the Masienda masa I got for Christmas.

Masa Balls

Prepping masa dough.

To begin with, preparing masa dough is literally a tactile experience because you mix it with your hands. The mix is roughly 1:1 masa to water by volume and you add the water a little at a time. You want dough that easily holds its shape when rolled into golf ball size pieces but is not at all sticky. I felt pretty confident about my results then took a piece, placed it in the tortilla press* between two sheets of wax paper and pushed down hard.

Result? I got myself a handsome raw tortilla that fell apart as soon as I peeled off the top sheet. Turns out wax paper is a terrible medium for making tortillas. I turned to the internet and found this video which advises using parchment paper or plastic (I got some nice tortilla press liners in my Masienda gift but wanted to try something already available in most kitchens) and also demonstrates a press-just-hard-enough technique that reminded me of the delicate touch required when rolling baguettes. Apply gentle pressure on the first press, then flip the tortilla over and apply even gentler pressure on a second.

Tortilla Assembly Line

My assembly line. Note proximity of press to open flame. Yes, the parchment paper did catch fire at one point…

These tortillas peeled off nicely from the top layer, then I peeled off the bottom layer and flipped it into a preheated nonstick skillet. The instructions on the Masienda package said to turn it after 20 seconds but I found this was too soon: the dough wasn’t set and a flap would get stuck on the top or a section would break off. I learned to leave the tortilla un-flipped until the surface changed to the fine pebbly texture you expect in a tortilla. This took maybe a minute. I flipped it without problems, cooked the other side 30 seconds or so, flipped it again and decided I was done when the tortilla showed a bit of browning.

So those are some common mistakes in tortilla making and how I corrected them: make sure the dough is the proper texture. Line the press with plastic or parchment paper, not wax paper. Don’t press too hard when pressing with the press. Wait till the dough has set in the skillet before flipping the tortilla.

After this learning process, I ended up with perhaps the best tortillas I have ever tasted and served them for dinner with carnitas and some chopped onion, cilantro, jalapeño and cotija cheese for garnish with a squeeze of lime juice. Now that’s my idea of fun.

*affiliate alert! This is the best selling cast iron tortilla press on Amazon and it’s just 20 bucks.

Carnitas Tacos

Carnitas tacos with home made tortillas.

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The American Diner Breakfast

Compton's Breakfast Special

Compton’s American diner breakfast with recommended condiments.

I help run an Airbnb and guests frequently ask for restaurant recommendations. I live in a tourist town and we have exquisite bakeries and frou-frou brunches, but a surprising number of people want a good old fashioned American diner breakfast. I always send them to Compton’s, a hole in the wall on Broadway with a step up to the dining area that keeps the snow out in winter but trips up unwary tourists in summer.

Comptons Interior

The American diner experience at Comptons: vinyl booths, plywood paneling on the walls, ads for local businesses on the table mat.

My personal choice every time is the house special which comes with coffee, two eggs, home fries, toast and choice of protein. My customizations: sunny side up, rye toast, bacon. I ask for tabasco and A-1 sauce on the side. I eat the bacon first, then I get to work. The potatoes and eggs get mashed together with the yolk blending with the A-1. As the plate empties I use the toast to sop up the remains. Finally I spread the remaining toast with jam from the supply on the table (orange marmalade if they have it) as a kind of dessert.

This currently costs $11.75 and I can’t think of a better American diner experience. What do you order in a diner and how do you mod it?

Breakfast Finished

I cleaned my plate.

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Recipe: Cold Soba Noodle Salad

Cold Soba Noodle Salad

Cold Soba Noodle Salad with furikake.

Cold Soba Noodle Salad is a refreshing alternative to Tabbouleh, which we’ve been making on repeat all summer. Both salads work well as a side or a main dish for a light lunch on a hot day. Makes 4 appetizer or 2 main dish servings.

Ingredients:
6 oz soba noodles
2 T white miso
2 T sesame oil
2 T rice vinegar
2 T tamari or 1 T soy sauce
3 green onions, sliced on the bias, including some green parts
½ c shelled edamame (optional)
Furikake for garnish (optional)

Method: bring a generous pot of water to the boil and add soba noodles. Cook to al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain into a colander and shock immediately with cold water to stop the cooking process.

Combine sauce ingredients in a small bowl, stirring well to incorporate miso paste. Mix with noodles in a serving bowl. Stir in green onions and optional edamame (or other vegetable, like snow peas or strips of cucumber) and refrigerate 2 hours to blend the flavors. Serve with a garnish of furikake (Japanese seaweed flakes) if you like.

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Recipe: Nigella Lawson Banana Bread

Nigella Lawson Banana Bread

Nigella Lawson Banana Bread.

Nigella Lawson Banana Bread is even better than Upside Down Banana Bread, thanks to the addition of bourbon-soaked raisins. The web offers many variations of this recipe but this is the one I prefer though I’ve done some tinkering and provided rough volume equivalents for those who don’t have a kitchen scale. Makes 1 loaf, approximately 10 slices.

Ingredients:
100 grams raisins (I used currants, about ½ c)
75 ml bourbon (1/3 c)
175 grams all purpose flour (1 ¼ c)
2 t baking powder
½ t baking soda
½ t Kosher salt
125 grams unsalted butter (melted), a stick plus 2T
150 grams sugar (¾ c)
2 large eggs
4 very ripe bananas mashed (approx. 400g total weight with skins on) (use as many as you want)
60 grams chopped walnuts (½ c)
1 t vanilla extract

Method: soak raisins in bourbon until they plump up somewhat, about 2 hours. (You can speed this up by heating the liquor/raisin mixture in the microwave till hot but not boiling.) Cream sugar with melted butter then beat in eggs one at a time, then the bananas, nuts and vanilla extract.

In a separate bowl, mix flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add gradually to banana mixture, stirring until well incorporated. Turn batter into a well greased loaf pan and bake in a 325 degree oven till an inserted toothpick comes out clean, about an hour. Cool to room temperature then slice and serve. Nigella Lawson Banana Bread is a luxury on its own but toasting and spreading with butter or cream cheese makes it even more decadent.

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Recipe: Tuscan Tomato Bean Salad

Tuscan Tomato Bean Salad

Tuscan Tomato Bean Salad.

Tuscan tomato bean salad is a summertime treat when you have ripe cherry tomatoes and fresh basil in your back yard (or at your farmers’ market). Just add beans and a bit of dressing for a refreshing one dish meal or side. Makes 2 main dish or 4 side dish servings.

Ingredients:
15-oz can of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1 c cherry or grape tomatoes, sliced in half
¼ c red onion or shallot, diced
2 T fresh basil, chopped or torn
2 T fresh parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 T extra virgin olive oil
1 T red wine vinegar or lemon juice
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Method: add the dressing ingredients to a serving bowl and whisk until well blended. Add other ingredients and toss. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving. This salad holds up well in the fridge and will keep for a day or two.

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Costco food court hacks

Costco Kimchi

Costco Kimchi, from our friends at The Daily Meal.

Last week Costco opened in Albany, with fawning media coverage worthy of that wedding at Madison Square Garden. We did not brave the crowds (there were long lines and a full parking lot) but are very familiar with Costco from our years in San Francisco. We love the food court hot dogs for weighing in at a fat ¼ lb but we’ll bring our own sauerkraut and crushed red pepper relish because those aren’t among the condiments offered.

That’s a very minor Costco food court hack compared to some you can read about here, like the jochizza which is a mashup of a hot dog, chicken roll and cheese pizza. And the forbidden glizzie, a weiner inserted in the chicken roll which is already stuffed with chunks of grilled chicken breast, creamy Caesar dressing, green onions and three types of cheese, wrapped in a crust made from pizza dough.

Aside from being gut busters in terms of fat and calories, these Costco food court hacks are also a poor value which defeats the purpose of getting a $1.50 hot dog with a bonus soft drink and feeling like you’ve put one over on the house. A smarter buy (because it’s free) is Costco kimchi, combining ketchup, relish and mustard from the condiment machine and chopped onions and pepper flakes which are available on request.

Costco Food Court Hot Dog

This photo is from 2010, but the Costco food court hot dog is still $1.50 with a refillable soda.

Will we try it? Quite possibly. We believe ketchup has no place on hot dogs but Korean cooking is another story; we use ketchup as a stand-in for gochujang in our Easy Korean Fried Chicken. Too bad we can’t wash it down with a shot of Kirkland Scotch or vodka, since New York’s arcane liquor laws forbid the sale of most alcohol products except in state-licensed liquor stores.

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Recipe: Amish Slaw II

Amish Slaw 2

Amish Slaw II.

Amish Slaw II is sweet-and-sour with a vinegar base. You’ll instantly recognize the flavor profile if you’ve eaten at Dienner’s or another PA Dutch buffet. Premixing with sugar seemed a strange idea since it’s not going to react with the cabbage like salt, but all the recipes I found seem to do it. Perhaps it’s a practical step to make sure the sugar is well distributed vs adding it to the dressing where it might be too much to dissolve easily. Makes 8 cups to serve 8-12.

Ingredients:
Small head of cabbage, grated or shredded
½ green bell pepper, finely chopped
½ medium onion, finely chopped
¼ c white sugar*
For the sauce:
½ c white vinegar
½ t white sugar
½ t kosher salt
½ t celery seed
½ t prepared (yellow) mustard
3/8 c neutral oil

Method: toss the vegetables with the sugar and set aside while you make the sauce. In a small saucepan, mix sugar, salt, mustard and celery seed and stir until the mustard is incorporated and the salt and sugar are dissolved. Add oil and heat to boiling. Cool to room temperature and toss with cabbage mix. Chill at least 8 hours before serving.

*This is less sugar than the original recipe called for but still pretty sweet. Feel free to cut back further.

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