Takeout 2.0 is here, and will be with us for a while

Social Distancing

Social distance while picking up takeout is part of takeout 2.0. The blackboard indicates which directions customers should go to claim their meals.

Saratoga Springs is a seasonal tourist town, which means 8 months of the year the local restaurants are barely hanging on. The mandated closings due to COVID-19 have been a devastating blow. Some have shuttered for good, others announced they’re closed for the duration, but a few have embarked on what we’ll call Takeout 2.0.

These places are used to packing leftovers for patrons to take home, but preparing multiple takeout meals a night is a different story. This week was scheduled to be Saratoga County Restaurant Week, and the sponsoring Chamber of Commerce quickly pivoted to Takeout Week. Last weekend we ordered from one of our favorite local restaurants, Taverna Novo. Owner Patricia Novo teaches wine in a local culinary arts program and has a huge cellar that she made available at roughly retail prices to take out with your food. (The state has made a temporary exception to a rule against selling alcohol to go unless you are a licensed store.) We got one bottle included with our Takeout Week meal, and also purchased a 32 oz half-growler of their excellent house pinot noir for $17 plus deposit.

Blue Hen Lamb Ragout

Not pretty, but delicious: lamb ragout from Blue Hen.

The next night, and another night later in the week, we ordered from the Adelphi Hotel complex which includes Salt & Char, Blue Hen and Morrissey’s. They offered a 3-course meal for $15, not a special but something they’ll do nightly for the time being; Morrissey’s had half-price on their sushi rolls. The takeout containers were funky Kraft boxes with the pan juices sloshing around the bottom (they must have been last to order their supply at Restaurant Depot and had to buy what was on hand) but once plated the food looked and tasted great.

A week later, we took a stroll around town and many places seem to have fine-tuned their process. We were worried that we did not get the promised curbside delivery at the Adelphi (had to go into the lavish lobby and sit on a magnificent Victorian bench and wait) but tonight there were efficient systems to avoid contact at more than one establishment.

And, some businesses have stepped up to the plate and offered to be a clearing house for farmers, food producers or smaller restaurant kitchens that cannot afford to maintain a storefront. Vic Christopher, a perpetual innovator in Troy, is offering takeout from his fine dining Peck’s Arcade at Little Peck’s, previously a brunch and coworking space, and has invited other producers to add their goods to his menu. And Nine Miles East, our farm-to-table pizza place, will now deliver fresh vegetables from local farms with your pizza. You can even buy a roll of toilet paper (limit 1 roll, with food order) for 35 cents. Now that’s takeout 2.0.

P.S. Saratoga-report.com is a new site offering local updates on the virus and community and government response AND links to a number of restaurants now offering takeout. Check it out!

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Recipe: Garlic Bread

Garlic Bread

Garlic Bread

Our garlic bread is Texan, not Upstate Italian, in provenance. It’s what our mother made to serve with spaghetti or maybe a chicken in tomato sauce. It’s super easy and uses materials you probably have on hand… just what’s needed in these times.

Ingredients:
French or Italian-style bread, a loaf or part of a loaf, stale okay
Butter or olive oil (we use the oil from our Garlic Comfit and include a few cloves for good measure)
Garlic powder
Salt

Method: if the bread is too stale to cut, soften it a bit by heating for 30 seconds in the microwave. Cut into serving slices then slather one side of each slice with butter or oil. Shake on a generous amount of garlic powder, add salt to taste, reassemble the loaf. Wrap tightly in aluminum foil and bake in a 350 degree oven until bread is piping hot and oil/butter and garlic are thoroughly incorporated in the crumb. Eat immediately.

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Recipe: Garlic Bacon

Garlic Bacon

Garlic Bacon, any questions?

Garlic bacon is exactly what we need in times like these. We stole it from Food52, who stole it from Chrissy Teigen. Only change we’ve made is to double the garlic. Makes 1 or 2 servings, but it’s easy to expand.

Ingredients:
4 slices bacon, thick sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced

Method: preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lay out bacon on a silicon pad or parchment paper on a half sheet pan, making sure the slices do not touch. Distribute garlic bits evenly over the bacon. Bake 20 minutes or until crisp, then drain on paper towels. Use the bacon grease generated to roast amazing root vegetables; DO NOT throw it out.

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Thank heaven for corned beef and cabbage

Corned Beef and Cabbage

Corned Beef and Cabbage (the cabbage has cooked down and disappeared)

In the time of COVID-19, we’ll be switching our focus on simpler meals that can be prepared using ingredients that are already in your home or readily available. Today being St. Patrick’s Day, we can start with a real winner: corned beef and cabbage. It’s easy, it’s filling, and most of the ingredients are currently on sale at your local supermarket (and hopefully in stock: at our local store the fresh meat shelves were stripped bare but there was plenty of cured product).

To make corned beef and cabbage, simply dump your hunk of corned beef (flats recommended) into a pot, add water to cover, and simmer 50 minutes per pound with the spices and liquid that come inside the bag. Add potatoes and carrots, peeled if you want and cut into serving-size chunks, the last 30 minutes; add quartered cabbage and onion the last 15 minutes. Serve with zesty mustard (we like to mix some dried mustard with the cooked down liquid from the pot) and some good bread.

Corned beef will also keep in its package indefinitely in its freezer, so it’s good to have on hand if you think you might be stuck at home for a while. If we’re not making corned beef and cabbage, we like to cook it in the oven or even in the smoker, like a regular brisket. And cabbage, in addition to being one of the world’s most healthful and versatile vegetables, will keep for a good long time in your fridge. Simply peel off the outer layers (which will also protect you against any contamination) till you get to the good stuff, then try one of our many coleslaw recipes. (Vincent’s cole slaw is by far the most popular, but if you don’t like garlic KFC style is a close runner up).

Happy St. Patrick’s Day. And stay safe.

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How to make an Ethiopian combination plate

Ethiopian combination plate

Ethiopian combination plate with (clockwise from upper left) Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables, ye’bedergan wot (puréed eggplant in a spicy sauce), ye’misser wot be’timatim (lentils in tomato sauce) and Ethiopian Fried Beef and Onions (siga tibs) with salad in the middle.

When you go to an Ethiopian restaurant in the U.S., you likely order a vegetarian Ethiopian combination plate and then a meat dish or two (which tends to be much more expensive) on the side. This is a satisfying and filling meal for 3-4 people and it’s what we have been aiming for with the recipes we’ve published here over the last few months. (Do a search for “Ethiopian” to list them conveniently on a page.)

We wanted to use the correct terminology for describing an Ethiopian combination plate, and when we turned to Google we got a bit of a surprise. We had seen the term yetsom beyanetu referring to a veggie combo but it turns out this means literally “fasting of every kind” according to this article in East Bay Express by Ruth Gebreyesus, an excellent reporter with Ethiopian ancestry who hardly ever writes about food.

The Ethiopian “veggie combo”, Gebreyesus tells us, is a fairly recent arrival on American tables; the first Ethiopian restaurant to open in the U.S. (Mamma Desta in DC, in 1978) served only meat dishes. That’s not to say the foods on Ethiopian combination plate are not authentic. 40% of Ethiopians are orthodox Christians who abstain from meat products the majority of the year. Hence the wide variety of vegetarian dishes that go onto a tsom (another word for fasting) platter.

According to Gebreyesus, “When you order yetsom beyanetu at a restaurant [in Ethiopia], the star of the platter is the timtimo or misir wot, a lentil stew with a berbere and onion base. The typical platter might also include kik alicha, a split-pea stew that’s rich in garlic and ginger; hamli or gomen, which are uncomplicated collards greens; and shiro, the chickpea-flour stew that sheds its indulgent butter and minced-beef supplements during fasts.”

We’ve yet to experiment with shiro, but you can find variations of many of the other above dishes on this site. Put four of them on an injera with some simple salad in the center (just chopped romaine with a bit of cut-up onion and tomato and Italian style [think Wishbone] dressing) and you’re good to go.

If you’re in the Bay Area, you can refer to the article for a list of Ethiopian restaurants with especially creative tsom menus. (Sadly, Anfilo Coffee, a place with an ever changing tsom buffet, seems to be out of business.) Also note that when Ethiopians go out to dinner at these places—unless it’s a fasting day—they tend to order meat dishes.

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Recipe: Ethiopian Fried Beef and Onions (Siga Tibs)

Ethiopian Fried Beef and Onions

Ethiopian Fried Beef and Onions (Siga Tibs)

Ethiopian Fried Beef and Onions comes not from my usual Teff Love, but from Ethiopia: Recipes and Traditions from the Horn of Africa by Ethiopian chef and TV personality Yohanis Gebreyesus. Unlike Kittee Berns’ vegan cookbook, it’s full of meat recipes. Think of Siga Tibs as an Ethiopian version of fajitas…. In fact, if you don’t have injera it would probably taste great rolled up in a tortilla. Serves 8 as part of a spread of Ethiopian dishes.

Ingredients:
2 T neutral cooking oil
2 medium red or yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1 ½ lb lean beef, such as round or sirloin, cut into bite-size cubes
1 T fresh rosemary leaves, removed from the stalk, or 1 ½ t dried rosemary, finely chopped
1 ½ T niter kibbeh
1 t ground cayenne pepper, or more to taste
Mimitma spices, optional: a generous pinch of ajowan and nigella seeds plus 1 t koseret*
1 jalapeño pepper, cut into rings

Method: heat oil to medium in a very large saucepan and add onions. Sauté 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently, till the onions have reduced considerably and many are crispy/brown. Push to the sides of edges of the pan then add a handful of beef and chopped rosemary. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring, until meat is brown and crispy on all sides but rare in the center. Push to the side and repeat with a second batch; it should take 4 batches in all to cook the beef.

Meanwhile, heat the niter kibbeh and add cayenne and mimitma spices, if using. Cook over low heat 5 minutes until fragrant. Dump this flavored butter mixture over the beef* and onions and mix thoroughly. Serve hot, on injera, garnished with jalapeño rings.

*You can omit the mimitma spices, and even just cook with unseasoned clarified butter, if you don’t have the recommended ingredients on hand. You’ll have a delicious meat dish but without the distinctive yet subtle Ethiopian spice profile.

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Recipe: Poppyseed Cole Slaw

Poppyseed Cole Slaw

Poppyseed Cole Slaw, after Micklethwait Craft Meats

At Micklethwait Craft Meats in Austin, the sides are as good as the BBQ. This Poppyseed Cole Slaw is an example. It’s probably not a perfect ringer for the slaw I experienced last weekend, but they vary their own recipes so that’s okay. It is light and refreshing, a bit sweet, and goes beautifully with grilled meats as you might expect. Makes 16 servings.

Ingredients:
1 medium head green cabbage, or a combination of green and red
1 bunch dino or curly kale, de-stemmed and shredded (about 2 c)
¼ c mayonnaise
¼ c buttermilk (full fat if available)
¼ c red onion, shredded (optional)
2 T honey
2 T cider vinegar
2 T poppyseeds
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: mix vinegar and honey in a bowl until honey is dissolved. Add mayo, buttermilk and poppyseeds and stir to combine. Shred cabbage (we use the coarse cut on a box grater) and mix thoroughly with the dressing along with kale and onion. Taste for seasoning; it may not need salt or pepper. Chill at least 2 hours before serving.

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Recipe: Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables (ye’atakilt alicha)

Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables

Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables

Another well-balanced recipe from the wonderful Teff Love cookbook; our only modification was adding a bit of liquid. Ethiopian Mixed Vegetables make a nice texture contrast to puréed items on your injera. The spicing is subtle enough that you can serve to people who don’t like Ethiopian food (of which there seem to be quite a few) and they won’t suspect a thing. Makes 8 servings when presented as part of an Ethiopian combination plate.

Ingredients:
½ green cabbage, chopped in 1-inch chunks
¾ lb thin-skinned potatoes (about 2 c), skin on, cut into bite-sized chunks
¼ lb carrots (about 1 c), peeled and cut into ¾ inch slices
¼ c Niter Kibbeh or vegan equivalent (same spices, but made with vegetable oil rather than clarified butter) or olive oil
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 t peeled and grated fresh ginger
¼ t ground cardamom
½ water or stock (chicken or veg)
¾ t salt, plus more if desired
2 jalapeño chiles, seeded, veined, and quartered lengthwise
Freshly ground black pepper

Method: melt the niter kibbeh and toss with all ingredients except water, salt and jalapeños until spices are well distributed. Spread in a flat roasting pan and pour over water or stock; cover with a lid or foil and bake in a 425 degree oven for 35 minutes. Remove cover and add jalapeños and salt; cook another 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Serve hot.

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The self-serve condiments conundrum

Condiment Horror at BWI

Self-serve condiments counter at BGR at BWI. Why does the customer have to do all the work?

Yesterday we had lunch in the B concourse of BWI airport in Baltimore. We chose BGR, a joint that advertised itself as “the best burger in DC” so we are allowed to hold them to high standards. We ordered the standard cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato and onions. Asking about mustard, we were told there are self-serve condiments  “over there”.

The burger was a big wad of meat, the onions were caramelized (not upon request) and the lettuce and tomato were as expected. Then we proceeded to the condiment area where we could choose from an array of mustards (Dijon as well as yellow), packets of salt and pepper, packets of mayo and relish and a couple of mystery items. Tearing into the multiple packets to get enough to prep our burger, we were struck by how inconvenient, irritating and even demeaning the process is: making the customer root around like a pig for kitchen scraps instead of properly preparing the food to order. We understand food safety and the exponential training that would probably be required to dress each item to the customer’s order, but would be willing to accept any additional time or cost. (Though BGR was not exactly bottom feeding at $8.79 for a standard cheeseburger.)

Chicago 7 Dog

Chicago 7 dog promises to make us happy.

In the future, when we see that an establishment has a self-service condiments area like the one pictured here, we shall pass. Where will we go instead? Not the dreadful Obrycki’s crab shack across the hall. On our return trip we will stop at the DC3 hot dog stand which, as you can see from the snap we took of their Chicago 7 (sic) dog on the menu, comes with the full allotment of sport peppers, neon relish and celery salt. We explained we had already eaten but would be back on Saturday. “We will make you happy,” the counter person promised, and we believe they will.

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Last thoughts on the Winter 2020 Fancy Food Show

Chocolate and Plants

Upscale chocolates and plant-based foods shared space at the Winter Fancy Food Show.

It seems a lifetime since international vendors packed Moscone Convention Center in San Francisco for the Winter Fancy Food Show, which ran January 19-21. Currently many borders are on lockdown because of the COVID-19 virus, with neither people nor goods able to move. But our prediction is we’ll get through this, and sooner than we expect.

The president of the Specialty Food Association opened the seminar I attended on the Mediterranean diet, and I learned the west coast FFS was added to the much older New York event as a way for importers to make contact with American retailers. I first attended in the early 1990s when I was doing some work with Harry & David; their buyers were looking for unique jarred sauces and jams to incorporate into gift baskets.

Over the years the number of jarred vs fresh, fermented or frozen items has dwindled, but the underlying mission has not changed. “Fancy” food is food that’s unusual enough, by whatever definition, that consumers will pay a premium for it and make it worthwhile for retailers to source products at the show.

This year we had a specialty pavilion of high end chocolate next to a pavilion of plant-based products. On the face of it, two categories as different as they could be. But both are catering to a customer who is looking for something new.

One year, I was astonished to find the wife of my high school Great Books teacher, presenting her line of home-baked Jewish pastries. She didn’t return but a similar business with big ideas, Les Trois Couchons, is an example of a specialty foods distributor growing from a single location to nationwide distribution. Each year I see them at the show and each year they have more products and more traffic.

We were at the first show where Serrano ham was legally available in the US and people stood in line for it. Today it seems there’s a handsome ham on display in every aisle. We’ve seen foie gras get banned, let back in, then banned again. We like to report on these changing trends and there’s always something new.

Amanda Little at FFS

Vanderbilt professor Amanda Little led a packed session on sustainable food alternatives in the face of climate change.

Food is a vehicle for bringing people together, including the vendors and retailers who come to the show. They like to work face-to-face rather than virtually, like most of us these days, and every booth seems to have a small meeting table where serious prospects or customers can sample wares. It’s inspiring to see how food can mean so much to so many. At the end of each show I’m full and exhausted, but within a few days I’m looking forward to the next one.

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