More tidbits from the 2014 Summer Fancy Food Show

I had a nice taste test ready but need some ingredient confirmation from the producer… so we’ll mark time with a few “casuals” that didn’t make it into my previous post about the Summer Fancy Food Show.

Georg Kao

George Kao, artisanal ramen chef

This guy wants to sell artisanal home ramen kits. What a great idea, since there’s a world of difference between the stuff you get in a top ramen house and in your packet of Shin Lamyan. He currently sells noodles to foodservice exclusively; I tasted his trial prep and it was delicious.

bonito for dashi

Dried fish for making ramen dashi, in the Japan pavilion

Rinse and recap. That’s the best practice I learned for recycling plastic containers in a seminar on sustainable packaging. If the bottle is dirty or still has liquid in it, the recycling center will discard it to avoid contaminating the recycling stream; a nice swirl with water and a bit of detergent is fine, no need to be obsessive. And if you don’t put the cap back on, it will get thrown away rather than recycled.

BBQ rub taster

Tasting dried rubs on chocolate squares

This exhibitor used squares of semisweet chocolate as the “platform” to compare various BBQ rubs. The flavor differences from one to the other come through very clearly and it’s a very enjoyable tasting experience.

The foodservice industry must index high in females. I say this because most of the men’s rooms in Javitz were converted to ladies’ rooms for the duration. Another theory: the management wanted to keep males from oversampling on the spirits and kombucha.

Temporary women's restroom

This used to be a men’s room

The difference between virgin and extra virgin olive oil is not what you think. I learned this in an olive oil seminar led by the dynamic Eryn Balch, the first food industry exec I’ve seen to attract groupies. It’s not a difference in processing; rather, EVOO has fewer “defects” as measured by the percentage of acid during testing.

Best tchotchke at the show: the Parmesan Frisbee. It’s served with chunks of Parmagiano Reggiano at 14, 24 and 36 months on a wheel to call out the differences; when you’re done you turn it over and sail it across the room. As a bonus, there’s no fear about getting it confiscated at the door (because of policies against taking food out).

Cheese Frisbee

The Parmesan Frisbee

Next up: a most unusual charcuterie taste test.

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Live from the floor at the 2014 Summer Fancy Food Show

World Cup distraction

The Germans seemed a little distracted during the World Cup, and not much business was done at their booth.

I go to the Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco every year, but it’s been awhile since I made it to to the New York version. The Summer Fancy Food Show is a bit bigger and seems more chaotic, but maybe that’s because I’m used to the organization of the West Coast show.

Nueske's Cheddar Bacon Brats

Best product I tasted: Nueske’s Cheddar Bacon Brats

Best product I tasted at the show: Nueske’s bacon and cheddar cheese bratwurst. How to make a tasty brat even better? Put some bacon on it. Amazingly, it’s only 26 grams of fat which is not that much higher than a regular brat.

Pork Clouds

Pork Clouds (nee Fried Pork Rinds)

Best product name: Pork Clouds. That’s what we used to call chicarrones, or fried pork rinds.

Most overexposed product: Jamon Serrano. A few years ago this was a rare treat. Now, there are  enough displayed on magnificent carving stations to feed the world and half the pigs in Spain must be hobbling around on peg legs.

Serrano ham

Enough, already

Trending up: Jerky. It was everywhere, evenly divided between the candied/marinated variety that’s familiar at the snack counter and a new artisanal approach toward what SlantShack, one of my favorites, called “dried steak”.

Trending up: Peanut butter. Which has expanded to a new category which you might call “spreads” as in peanut butter (maybe with marshmallow fluff or white chocolate) designed to spread on a cookie.

Sriracha Hummus

Is the world ready for sriracha hummus?

Trending up: Sriracha. In everything. Including peanut butter.

Trending down: Gluten Free products. Of 2730 exhibitors at the show, only 425 categorized their products as “gluten free”. This in a nation when 49% of citizens say they have some form of gluten intolerance. I don’t have a comparable percentage of gluten free exhibitors last year but guarantee it was far higher. Celiac is a disease, but some feel that gluten intolerance is a fad and the food marketers seem to be betting it’s time to put it behind us.

Today’s the last day of the show. I have a couple of in-depth product reports that I’ll file in coming days.

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Thrill on the Grill with Market Bistro

Plated Grilled Meal

The finished meal: asparagus, sweet potato, Vidalias, strip steak, all cooked on the grill, plus my son’s Kewpie and red pepper relish

The other day I cooked up a nice grilled dinner that was inspired by my recent Two Guys and a Grill class at Market Bistro. I was further stimulated by the chemistry of warm early summer weather and being able to cook without my wife complaining about clean-up.

Grill One

Phase One: Sweet Potatoes and Vidalia Onions

That second benefit is one of the secret reasons guys grill, I expect. And if you want to make a complete, no-mess meal rather than a couple of steaks to add to sides cooked in the kitchen, or tubs of potato salad and cole slaw from the deli, you can do that too. I followed Certified Angus Beef chef Michael Ollier’s strategy to divide my grill into zones, with varying heat, to handle both meat and vegetables as well as keeping cooked foods warm after I was done.

Grill Two

Phase Two: potatoes are done, asparagus added; firebox heating for the wood chips to go under the steak

I started with some sweet potato I sliced thin after peeling, then coated with some good olive oil and garam masala. Asparagus spears were next, marinated briefly in olive oil with a bit of lemon juice and herbes de provence. And some Vidalia onions which were sliced thin and cooked without adornment in a basket on the grill.

Grill Three

Phase Three: veggies are done, steaks are on the grill

I took a cooking class a few years ago from Annie Sommerville of Greens and she advised us to raid Cost Plus for grilling necessities. The basket is perfect for onions, mushrooms and chopped peppers. The flat perforated grill sheet is for larger vegetable pieces like my asparagus or zucchini or eggplant. I use a Weber Genesis gas grill, which is more expensive than your Home Depot grill but by no means the priciest you can buy, and am very happy with it. In fact, I own multiple Weber products and am impressed at the consistent and predictable results I get from all of them.

Steak on empty grill with pans

Here you can see the configuration of my grilling pans….

To this mix of hardware and software (AKA the veggies) I added a couple of magnificent strip steaks from the folks at Allen Brothers. They were cooked on one side to the point that, as Ollier describes it, they “surrender”. A bit of moisture is beading on the top surface that has not yet been exposed to heat, and the bottom releases easily when you lift it off the grill. It’s flipped over and cooked for no more than a minute or two, then it rests and is served as a perfect rare to medium rare.

Gently Darkened Sweet Potato

You will inevitably end up with some burned, or as I call them “gently darkened” pieces which I remove in the name of domestic harmony….

The summer is young, but I expect this is as good an outdoor-prepared meal as I’ll make all season. Until I fire up my smoker, that is….

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Recipe: Twice-Baked Potato Casserole

Twice Baked Potato Casserole

Twice-Baked Potato Casserole

The old reliable twice-baked potato, but moved to a baking dish so you can easily serve a crowd. It will hold its heat for quite a while at grillside or on a picnic table, due to its density. From Market Bistro’s John Winnek.

Ingredients:
3 large russet potatoes (about 2 lbs total), scrubbed but not peeled
3/4 c chopped onions
2 1/2 c grated cheddar cheese (he uses white)
2 t Kosher salt
1/4 t ground pepper
1 1/2 c plain yoghurt or sour cream
Chives (optional) for garnish

Method: The day before, bake potatoes in a 425 degree oven until done, about 1 hour. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next day, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grate potatoes using the largest holes of a grater or chop by hand. Transfer to a mixing bowl with 1 3/4 c cheese, onions and salt and pepper; mix by hand; fold in sour cream or yoghurt. Transfer to a 1 1/2 qt baking pan or individual ramekins. Sprinkle remaining cheese on top. Bake for 30 minutes or until cheese is golden brown and potatoes are hot. Garnish with chopped chives, if you wish.

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Recipe: Steak with Green Chimichurri Sauce

Steak Chimichurri Brussels

Chimichurri (at left) with strip steak and bacon-braised Brussels sprouts.

John Winnek shared this refreshing Argentine steak condiment in our Market Bistro grilling class. You can use some as a marinade, but be sure to save plenty to serve on the plate with the meat. It’s great for sopping up juice with a nice piece of crusty bread. Makes about 1 1/4 cup (about 10 servings).

Ingredients:
1 c fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley leaves
1/2 c fresh mint leaves*
1/2 c fresh oregano leaves*
1/2 c neutral oil (canola or peanut, actually I used a mild olive oil)
1/4 c red wine vinegar
1 t red pepper flakes
8 cloves garlic

Method: place all ingredients except oil in blender and pulse to puree. Drizzle in the oil until the mixture is thoroughly emulsified. If marinating, pour over meat and refrigerate several hours (overnight if possible). Serve a spoonful of chimichurri on each plate, with the cooked steak on top.

  • You can substitute basil, shiso or other flavorful green leaves or just use more parsley.
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Recipe: Caramelized Brussels Sprouts

Chef Winnek's Brussels sprouts

Chef Winnek presents a pan of bacon-braised caramelized Brussels sprouts

You can make caramelized Brussels sprouts on an unused corner of the grill in a cast iron pan, if you like. Another of Market Bistro Chef John Winnek’s grill accompaniments. Serves 4-6.

Ingredients:
4 oz bacon, cut into small pieces
1/2 sweet onion (like Vidalia or Texas 1015), peeled and sliced thin
2 c Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
salt and pepper to taste

Method: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Add bacon to cast iron pan on grill or saute pan on stovetop. Render bacon about 5 minutes until it begins to crisp. Remove from heat and drain bacon on paper towel; pour most (not all) of the bacon fat in a container for later use. Add onions to pan and caramelize on medium heat; add the Brussels sprouts and stir to mix. Transfer to an ovenproof casserole and heat in oven for 15 minutes or until Brussels sprouts are tender; if using grill continue to cook in cast iron skillet. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as desired.

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Recipe: Sweet Corn Souffle

Corn Souffle

Corn Souffle (after the Market Bistro class did some diggin’ in)

From Market Bistro Chef John Winnek. It’s more like a fluffy corn pudding or spoon bread than a true corn souffle, but its non-fussy nature makes this a perfect side dish for a cookout. Serves 8.

Ingredients:
1 c polenta/corn grits
1 c boiling water
2 c milk
2 t Kosher salt
4 T unsalted butter, melted
4 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
4 large egg whites, beaten into stiff peaks.
1 ear of fresh corn, shaved off the cob (about 1 c)

Method: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk polenta into boiling water in a double boiler pan and then set over simmering water and continue whisking for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in 1 c milk and cook, stirring constantly, until milk is absorbed. Now add second cup of milk and melted butter and salt and continue to whisk until absorbed, about 2 more minutes. The end result should be smooth, no lumps, and a little soupy; it will continue to set up as it cooks in the oven.

Remove from heat and stir in the egg yolks, then the corn niblets. Fold in egg whites just until incorporated (don’t overstir or they’ll lose their loft). Pour into a buttered oven pan or individual buttered ramekins. Bake 40 minutes (30 minutes for ramekins) or until puffed and brown. (Try not to open oven door.) Serve immediately if you can; if you wait it will deflate a little but will still be light and delicious.

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Recipe: Three-Way Strawberry Shortcake

Strawberry Shortcake

Three-Way Strawberry Shortcake (pickled berry in front)

I whipped up this three-way strawberry shortcake recipe for a promotion sponsored by Driscoll’s. It features home-made buttermilk biscuits and three different preparations of strawberries: quick-pickled, macerated and fresh. 12 servings.

Ingredients:
For the biscuits:
2 c unbleached all purpose flour (I use King Arthur)
3 T sugar
1 T baking powder
¼ t baking soda
½ t salt
8 T unsalted butter (1 stick), frozen
½ c buttermilk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten

Strawberry bias

Strawberry cut on the bias

For the strawberries:
6 c ripe strawberries, each strawberry cut on the bias into 3-4 pieces with maybe a few whole strawberries for garnish
½ c sugar
1 T lemon juice
½ c cider vinegar
½c water
Peppercorns
Rosemary, small sprig or 1 t dried

For the whipped cream:
½ pint heavy cream
2 T good floral honey
1 t vanilla extract

Method: The night before serving, quick-pickle about 1 c of strawberries. Bring water and cider vinegar to boil in a saucepan with rosemary and half a dozen peppercorns. Cool and strain into a bowl with strawberries. Refrigerate.

Sweet biscuit dough

Biscuit dough (those on the left and front have been finger-smoothed)

Biscuits: Preheat oven to 425 degrees and line a half sheet or two quarter sheet pans with parchment paper or Silpat. Mix flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and 3 T sugar in a bowl or food processor. Cut butter into ½ inch cubes and add to dry ingredients. Pulse food processor or “cut” with pastry blender until butter is finely dispersed. Mix beaten eggs and buttermilk in a separate bowl and pour into dry mixture with butter. Blend quickly, just until dried flour streaks disappear. The dough will be very sticky. Using a tablespoon and your fingers dipped in water, transfer dough to sheet pan in clumps that are about 2 inches across and 1 ½ inches high. You want to end up with 12 clumps, evenly spaced on the sheet pan. Use your finger dipped in water to smooth them out so they are more biscuit-like. Bake approximately 18 minutes or until slightly brown on top, rotating pan halfway through. Cool about 10 minutes in the pan, then flip over onto a wire rack to continue cooling. The biscuits can be made ahead of time and refrigerated until needed; reheat in 350 degree oven for 10 minutes before serving (or zap them a few seconds in the microwave).

Macerated strawberries: Mix ½ c sugar and 1 T lemon juice in a bowl. Add 2 ½ c cut strawberries and toss to combine. Allow to macerate 15-30 minutes until a good amount of liquid is given off.

Whipped cream: Start with cold heavy cream and bowl and whisk or beaters that have been chilled in the freezer a few minutes. Whip cream until it starts to set up; add 2 T honey and 1 t vanilla extract; continue beating till it forms soft peaks.

Assembling the shortcakes: Slice each biscuit in half (if you make them in advance, do this before reheating). Place each pair of cut biscuit halves, sliced side up, on a serving plate. Drizzle a little of the liquid from the macerated strawberries onto each biscuit face. Evenly divide the macerated berries across the 12 servings, then add drained quick-pickled berries (if they taste too pickle-y to you, rinse in water and drain before using). Finish with 2 ½ c of fresh strawberries, cut on the bias. Spoon a generous amount of whipped cream onto each serving and top with a small whole berry as garnish if you like.

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Certified Angus Beef grilling class at Market Bistro

Chefs Market Bistro

Chefs Michael Ollier and John Winnek at work in Market Bistro demo kitchen

I’ll be sharing a few recipes over the next couple of weeks from a grilling class with John Winnek, the resident chef and chief instructor at the Market Bistro Cooking School in Latham, NY. John has an easy, confident way in describing and preparing his recipes and it was a pleasure to spend 90 minutes with him and Michael Ollier from Certified Angus Beef, watching them grill and then sampling three different cuts of beef (a marinated top round, a petit sirloin and a New York strip which had been partitioned into “filets” on the principle that the modern diner wants strong flavor and can put up with less meat).

Steak and Taters

Twice Baked Potato Casserole (recipe to come)

This is an excellent facility that I’ll recommend to anyone who is within driving distance, especially because it turns out to be the area’s first full-scale cooking school at a chain grocery. The large demo kitchen has three islands where up to 15 students can participate in hands-on classes, and counters and stools facing the kitchen and two large video monitors for nonparticipatory classes (like the one I attended). Classes are held almost daily on a variety of specialties and for all interest levels and age ranges (there was recently a “Frozen” cooking class for kids, which I gather was a learning experience for all involved). The current schedule is here.

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How Stephanie Izard gets kids to eat their vegetables

Magic mixed veg

Mixed vegetables with a bit of mayo and The Saute

On a recent trip to Chicago, I was unsuccessful at getting a seat at the popular Girl and the Goat restaurant. But a few weeks later, I ran into head chef/owner Stephanie Izard at the Fancy Food Show and she was kind enough to load me up with a few samples of the sauces and rubs inspired by her cuisine, which she collectively calls The Flavor.

Wall Street Journal said that Izard’s Rub #1 “concentrates ranch dressing’s predominant notes with herbaceous rosemary” while The Marinade is “every protein’s friend” but so far I have been concentrating on The Saute, a “vinaigrette” (it isn’t technically since it contains no vinegar) which is like a checklist of all that is umami and/or good to eat: fish sauce, lemon juice, soy sauce, dijon mustard, sriracha, oh my!

The Saute

The Saute

A version of this sauce is served on the restaurant’s “Magic Beans” in which green beans are sautéed with some cashews, then sauced with an aioli containing the concoction. But the killer application I’ve discovered is squirting a bit of mayo into a serving of any blanched-from-frozen vegetable, adding a bit of The Saute (no more than ½ t per serving), then serving to children. The types gobble it up!

Chef Izard generously shares the recipe on her website, but The Saute is very reasonably priced so you might just want to order a bottle. It’s available from Abe’s Market for $9.95 a bottle plus $4.95 shipping, or $9.95 with (apparently) no shipping fee from Izard’s own Goat Store. UPDATE: as of 2018 the product is apparently no longer available so I’ve removed the links other than that to the actual recipe, in case you want to make it at home.

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