Recipe: Tomato Aspic

Tomato Aspic

Tomato Aspic with Kewpie mayo topping

You can’t get past the first serving station at the Highland Park Cafeteria without encountering an array of tempting congeals. Tomato aspic is one of my favorites. This prep is sure to warm the heart of anyone with roots in the south. Serves 12.

Ingredients:
4 c tomato juice (I use Campbells)
1 T Worcestershire sauce
1 t salt (start with less, taste)
2 t white sugar (start with less, taste)
1 t Tabasco or to taste
½ c chopped celery and/or celery leaves
½ c chopped onion
½ c chopped green pepper
2 bay leaves

3 packets gelatin*
½ c cold water
2 ½ T cider vinegar
Mayonnaise (preferable Kewpie brand)

Method: Mix everything EXCEPT gelatin, water and vinegar in a large saucepan and bring slowly to a simmer. Continue cooking 5 minutes over very low heat until vegetables are just beginning to lose their crispness. Remove bay leaves. Meanwhile, mix gelatin into water in a shallow bowl and stir if necessary to thoroughly hydrate the gelatin. Turn off the heat and stir in gelatin, continuing to stir until all lumps disappear. Add cider vinegar and pour into a ring form or multiple individual molds (use silicon molds or else lubricate the surface with a tasteless oil). Refrigerate until very firm. Unmold onto serving plate(s); if the aspic sticks it helps to briefly dip the outside of the mold in hot water. Serve with a dollop of mayonnaise on each piece.

*The gelatin lobby wants us to use one packet for every cup of water but that’s definitely too much. I used three packets for insurance but two is probably sufficient.

VARIATION: Halve a ripe avocado then cut lengthwise into slices. Strain the vegetables from the aspic before adding the gelatin. When aspic is thickened but not yet set (after 1-2 hours in the refrigerator), carefully place the avocado pieces around the edges of the ring mold, curved side facing out, so each serving gets a piece of avocado. For individual molds, place a slice of avocado in each mold.

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Food for Thought: She Simmers

While researching green papaya salads for my Mock Som Tam recipe, I typed “how to make green papaya salad without a mortar and pestle” into the Google search box and up popped She Simmers. Leela Punyaratabandhu was born in Thailand but lives in the U.S. Her blog is dedicated to her late mom, the “cookbook addict”, and she presents recipes from those Thai cookbooks as well as her own creations and those of modern Thai chefs.

The recipes and discussions are presented in somewhat obsessive detail, but fortunately Leela is a fabulous writer. A cookbook, Simple Thai Food: Classic Recipes from the Thai Home Kitchen, is available on Amazon. Check out She Simmers and be prepared for a great read.

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God’s breakfast

God's Breakfast

God’s breakfast: crusty bread, good olive oil and zata’ar

One day I was visiting with the proprietor of my local Armenian market and discussing the various spices needed to cook the recipes in the Jerusalem: A Cookbook. He kept tucking into what he described as his “breakfast” which was a little saucer of olive oil laced with zata’ar, into which he’d scoop a morsel of pita.

He looked so satisfied that I had to try it for myself, which I now do regularly using zata’ar from his shop, my wonderful Frog Hollow olive oil, and ciabatta instead of pita because it soaks up the oil more easily. What a perfect mouthful, combining the fruity unctuous olive oil, the herbaceous country aroma of the spice mixture, and the cool wheaty texture of the bread. I realize it’s nutritionally the equivalent of bread and butter, but it sets me up for the day.

Zata’ar, as sold commercially, contains some sesame seed and salt, sumac for bitterness and the wild thyme also called zata’ar which grows primarily in the Middle East. Fortunately, it’s very cheap from Amazon and other sources. God made sure He or She had a reliable local supplier, but was kind enough to offer it to us with wholesale pricing.

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Recipe: Mock Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad)

Mock Green Papaya

Mock Green Papaya salad, made with cabbage

Real green papaya can be hard to come by, hence the workarounds. The flavor base of this is very strong and good so experiment until you get a vegetable combination you like. Serves 4-6.

Ingredients:
4 c cabbage (½ head), finely shredded (or equivalent amount of shredded turnip, rutabaga, mango, cucumber or…)
¼ lb green beans, cut into 1 inch lengths
10 or so cherry tomatoes, halved lengthwise, or one large tomato cut lengthwise into matchsticks

1 jalapeno
3 cloves garlic
2 T fish sauce
¼ c lime juice
2 T sugar
3 T or more dried shrimp, ground in a blender

¼ c unsalted peanuts, roasted and chopped very fine

Method: Mash/bruise the beans and tomatoes by rolling a can or bottle over them or pound lightly with a mortar and pestle; the goal is to soften these ingredients so they will absorb the dressing more readily. Add to the shredded cabbage in a serving bowl. Mix the next 6 ingredients in a blender or food processor. Assemble the salad by combining cabbage, tomato, beans and dressing and garnish with peanuts.

Note: in Thailand they make this in a big mortar and keep adding the ingredients and beating them together with a pestle to meld the flavors. You can do much the same thing by letting it sit for 15 minutes before serving, but you do need to give the tomatoes and beans a light bashing for appearance. Don’t let it sit around, though; after half an hour the flavor starts to dissipate.

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This post is sponsored by… the FTC!

I’ve recently seen a number of disclaimers at the bottom of bloggers’ posts about specific products that go something like this:

The product(s) featured in this review was provided free of cost to me for the sole purpose of product testing and review. This review has not been monetarily compensated and is based on the views and opinions of my family and/or self. Please note that the opinions reflected in this post have not been influenced by the sponsor in any way.

To me such legal language has a chilling effect on what should be a friendly conversation among people who like good eats. And the beauty part is… it’s total unnecessary! Who says? Our friends at the Federal Trade Commission, which is the agency that oversees such matters.

The FTC’s Revised Endorsement Guides: What People are Asking is maybe the only government-produced document you’ll ever see that is actually understandable. To quote,

“The revised Guides – issued after public comment and consumer research – reflect three basic truth-in-advertising principles:

  • Endorsements must be truthful and not misleading;
  • If the advertiser doesn’t have proof that the endorser’s experience represents what consumers will achieve by using the product, the ad must clearly and conspicuously disclose the generally expected results in the depicted circumstances; and
  • If there’s a connection between the endorser and the marketer of the product that would affect how people evaluate the endorsement, it should be disclosed.”

A product review in which the reviewer is paid and doesn’t disclose this obviously violates these principles. So what about complimentary samples provided for review, invitations to tastings and such? If you are a regular reader of Burnt My Fingers, you may have noted that I am always careful to say when I have tasted a product at the invitation of a producer, as in recent posts on Orchard Bars, Market Bistro and Jones Dairy Farm. I think the admission is more important than the stilted language, and the FTC agrees with me:

“Is there special language I have to use to make the disclosure?
“No. The point is to give readers the information. Your disclosure could be as simple as ‘Company X gave me this product to try . . ..’
“Do I have to hire a lawyer to help me write a disclosure?
“No. What matters is effective communication, not legalese. A disclosure like ‘Company X sent me [name of product] to try, and I think it’s great’ gives your readers the information they need.”

Also, I (and many other bloggers) don’t actually endorse products. We talk about our experience with them. If I have a really bad impression of something provided to me, I just won’t write about it (though I may Yelp it). Life is too short. Even with a generally favorable experience, like my initial visit to Market Bistro, I found some nits to pick at. (Cheese priced higher than I thought it should be.)

The defense rests. Disclaimer: no lawyers were harmed in the production of this post.

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Orchard Bars from Liberty Orchards

Orchard Bars

Orchard Bars are slightly irregular in proportion from one to another. I like that.

During my peak backpacking years I was a big consumer of Gorp—the do-it-yourself trail mix made by dumping a bag of M&Ms, a can of mixed nuts and a box of raisins into a bowl and mixing them up together, then dumping the result into a Ziploc bag. (Internet searches suggest that GORP stands for “good old raisins and peanuts”.)

Since then I have tried the various snack bars that come along as improvements, especially Clif and Luna, and I am sure they are healthier and more nutrition-packed, but to me they taste like cardboard even with peanut, chocolate, lemon and other attempts at flavoring. The purpose of a snack bar, in my opinion, to deliver a measured dose of sugar energy and protein to keep you going in a strenuous exertion.

Greg Taylor, a onetime advertising client who is president of Liberty Orchards in the apple country of eastern Washington, sent me a selection of his Orchard Bars to check out and I like them a whole lot better. Greg is a master of delivering a precisely controlled sweetness through apple juice, instead of refined sugar, and Orchard Bars are definitely sweeter than most snack bars but without approaching the sweetness level of candy. They are firm without being hard and the generous amounts of nut bits provide a quick dose of crunch. My tasting panel (consisting of school age kids) proclaimed them the best of all snack bars they’d tried. One more test: I left a bar on the top of a heater, to simulate the experience of spending a hot day in a backpack, and it held up fine.

There are six flavors of which Strawberry-Walnut seems to be the most popular, though I like Macadamia Banana the best. They seem to be somewhat hard to find at retail but you can order them on Amazon. You can also get a sampler of two bars for $2.50 with free shipping, direct from the producer, which is probably the best way to satisfy initial curiosity. Orchard Bars are vegan, non-GMO and contain no gluten or dairy products.

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Recipe: Mari’s Little Lamburger

Lamburger done

Mari’s Little Lamburger, done

Adapted from the somewhat mysterious Conspirator’s Cookbook, this provides a very juicy lamburger you can enjoy on a bun or on its own. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
1 lb ground lamb*
¼ c chopped parsley (or chopped mint, or a combination)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 T milk
2 T tomato juice**
1 large egg
1 t salt
¼ t pepper
White flour, for dredging
Butter, for frying

Method: beat egg in a mixing bowl, then add other ingredients except flour. Mix well and refrigerate for 2 hours. Shape into 4 mini-meat loaves or patties. The meat will be gloppy; it helps to wet your hands between patties. Dredge lightly in flour on all sides then sauté in butter over medium heat, turning once, for about 5 minutes or until medium rare.

*I find that most packaged ground lamb is way too fatty so I grind my own from shoulder or leg or “lamb stew meat”
** If you don’t have tomato sauce on hand, you can use a little of the liquid in a can of tomatoes. Or, for a tarter taste, substitute lemon juice.

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“Secret” ingredient makes best bread ever

Secret Ingredient Bread

Can you guess the secret ingredient?

Yesterday I produced what I felt was the best tasting baguette I’ve ever baked, for a local food swap group. I was surprised because I’ve made this recipe (it has 20% white spelt flour and 80% all-purpose) several times and this was a step above all the others. Then I realized I had done something different: used “too much” salt.

I normally toss in about 2 1/2 teaspoons/20 grams for a recipe with around 1500 g total weight. This time it didn’t taste salty enough so I added more at the last minute. (Yes, I always taste my raw dough and you should too.) It seemed “too” salty now but the salt resolved beautifully in the bake.

I remember when star baker Michael London was a judge in my country miche taste test a while back, he said his biggest complaint with most bread is insufficient salt. Now I know what he’s talking about.

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Baking with sprouted grains

Sprouted Bread

Sprouted bread and sprouted flours

Baking with sprouted grains seems to be a rising food trend. Chad Robertson’s new Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole has a section of recipes using seeds and grains which are sprouted, then folded into the dough. At the Fancy Food Show this past January, Central Milling was showing its 1 and 5 pound chubs of sprouted grain slurry which are shipped frozen, defrosted at the bakery, then added to a bread mix. And I talked to the folks at To Your Health Sprouted Flour Co. who sent me home with a couple of packages to play with.

The loaf shown here was made with their Kamut flour, along with high extraction and standard bread flour, with sprouted barley from whole grains folded in. It roughly follows a recipe in Robertson’s book. He warns that barley grains often sprout unevenly and that was my experience; some are crunchy and you run into a husk here and there. My reviewers don’t mind this, but next time I think I will grind the barley after sprouting it.

The Sprouted Flour website has a page on why sprouted flours are better for you, which includes better digestibility and improved transfer of vitamins to the system. When you mix in whole grains, I also find the bread keeps longer, probably because the grains absorb water that might cause molding. And there’s a great nutty taste which goes well with peanut butter or tuna sandwiches.

If you want to do some experimenting on your own, get the Tartine book which has other useful recipes. You can probably find sproutable, untreated organic whole grains in your local health food store. And To Your Health Sprouted Flour Co. currently has a deal where you can get flat $12 shipping on an order of 30 pounds or more of flour. If you have mail ordered flour, you will recognize that as a great deal. Their selection includes einkorn, an ancient grain that’s very hard to find.

UPDATE: Sprout People, my favorite source of seeds for sprouting, sells both hulled and unhulled barley as it turns out. Hulled, which I got, is for a wheat grass-type concoction. The unhulled are purple, which is what Chad Robertson said he used and I am guessing they were his source since they’re in San Francisco. So get the unhulled if you don’t want your customers picking the husks out of their teeth.

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Fish Sticks with Pineapple! [cue gag reflex]

Here’s another great  link to check out, though maybe not after dinner. Vintage Recipe Cards reproduces the extremely unappetizing food photography of the 40s and 50s, then provides a text version of the recipe in case you want to try and make it.

At some point we will examine this whole megillah in greater detail. Seems like food photography came into its own during the WWII years, when consumer rationing was patriotic. If you can photo Mom’s meat loaf and make it disgusting (and maybe provide a recipe that substitutes broom corns for onion), that’s a good thing.

Today we’ve got a lot to complain about, surely, but let’s be glad we’re not eating food like this.

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