Recipe: Bacon Fat

Bacon Fat

A nice jar of Bacon Fat

Many dishes (especially beans) benefit from a tablespoon or two of Bacon Fat, aka Bacon Grease. But, like pita, bacon fat is one of those ubiquitous ingredients it’s hard to find a recipe for. Problem solved. Makes 4 T, which is just about the right amount to add to a pot of Snow’s style beans.

Ingredients:
4 strips pork bacon (cured or “uncured” but not turkey or other fake bacon, please)

Makin Bacon Fat

Makin’ bacon fat

Method: arrange bacon strips in COLD skillet so each strip has maximum contact with the surface. You might need to cut them in half in the middle to make them fit. Cook over LOW HEAT until fat begins to render then flip to expose the other side to heat. Once a good amount of fat has rendered, turn up the heat slightly. Continue to cook, turning occasionally, until the bacon has a uniformly crispy surface.

Bacon Ends and Pieces

If you’re not going to serve the bacon as bacon, ends and pieces can be had for half the price.

When most of the fat has rendered out and the bacon strips have been reduced by about 75%, transfer them to a paper towel to drain. Cool the fat slightly then pour into a jar you’ve reserved for bacon fat. As a rule of thumb, 1 strip of bacon will produce about 1 T bacon grease. Refrigerate between uses.

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Why whiskey? Why, indeed…

Tom Fischer

Tom Fischer with his whiskeys.

Tom Fischer has one of those jobs that sounds fabulous but is no doubt exhausting in real life. As proprietor of Bourbon Blog, he travels the world making contacts with the distillers and distributors of rare spirits in order to match them up with well-heeled consumers who will enjoy those spirits. I caught up with him at the recent International Restaurant Show, where he was running a workshop called “Why Whiskey?” for folks looking to add a Whiskey Program to their venues.

Over 90 minutes we tasted 8 whiskeys, none of which costs less than $100 at retail which means you are going to be paying close to $20 for your pour at the bar. I tend to Islay single malts which are laid up for 20 years or more. These were all younger, some as young as 2 ½ years, and featured some imaginative aging strategies including a bourbon that is aged on a boat so the waves rock the whisky in the barrel and give it more contact with the charred surface of the wood (Jefferson’s Ocean) and another that spends time in barrels used to age maple syrup (Hudson Maple Cask Rye). Every one was a treat to sample and contemplate.

Why Whiskey Samples

My whisky samples and scoresheet

I learned that you should move your nose left and right while evaluating the initial aroma, like a dog investigating a fresh scat; our scent sensitivity differs slightly from nostril to nostril. Then hold the first sip in your mouth for the same number of seconds as the age of the bottle in years, swilling it to hit all the taste and olfactory sensors; this is called the “Kentucky chew”. Now power that baby down the gullet, and repeat.

Before leaving, I asked Tom what he recommended in a cheap everyday bourbon. He did not hesitate: Four Roses. I picked up a bottle to compare to my usual, Evan Williams. The flavor profiles were close together though Williams has a raw note I happen to like. Can’t go wrong with either, while you are saving up for the good stuff.

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The CVS diet

CVS Food Groups

Food groups available for shopping at CVS.com

My family’s prescriptions are at our local CVS store so we are in and out of there on a regular basis. It has always fascinated me that this drugstore chain maintains a well-stocked packaged food department. I never thought of the place I get my Gas-X and teeth whitening strips as a destination for one-stop shopping, but obviously others disagree.

So, finally I spent some time roaming my local store and contemplating how one could do a week’s food purchases without ever going to any store other than CVS. And guess what? They have fresh milk and butter. A smattering of deli meat products including mini-packages of Nathan’s franks. There’s lots of heat-and-serve entrees in the frozen foods case. And, of course, you will not go lacking for beer, soda or chips.

CVS Canned Vegetables

The soup/veg shelves at my CVS. Actually I see some green beans lurking behind the niblets, so maybe I’m being unfair

The grocery aisle, however, is where the dream dies. There are soups but no vegetables other than some cans of black beans and corn kernels. (And no frozen veggies either.) Some prescription drugs (especially the ones the folks around the pharmacy window seem to clamor for, claiming that surely their script is due for a refill) are said to be constipating. If you’re in search of iron and fiber, you’ll have to look to the pharmacy department.

A few tubs of processed cole slaw in the cold case might have caused me to actually give this diet a try. As it is, I’m on my way back to the supermarket. Sorry, CVS.

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Recipe: Wilted Salad Frary-Style

Wilted Lettuce Saad

Wilted Lettuce Salad as it used to be served at Frary Dining Hall

This salad was served as a weekend lunch in my college dining hall, when staffing was light and most students were too hungover to eat. Accompanying it were sausage links and applesauce, a toothsome and vaguely middle-European meal. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
1/2 head iceberg or Romaine lettuce, shredded
2 slices bacon
2 T apple cider vinegar
3/4 t salt
1/4 t MSG*

Orozco Prometheus

Orozco’s mural of Prometheus’ sufferings always whetted our appetites.

Method: sauté bacon over low heat in a large skillet until crisp; reserve. Add about the same amount of vinegar as the residual bacon fat along with salt and MSG and stir. Turn off heat and add shredded lettuce to the skillet; toss a few times to wilt it slightly then transfer to a serving bowl. Crumble in bacon pieces before serving.

*Optional, but I’m sure dining hall manager Helen Throne added it, along with saltpeter.

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Recipe: Acme Cheese Wheels

Cheese Wheels

Acme Cheese Wheels

These are “Acme” Cheese Wheels in the dictionary sense, as in “ultimate” or “peak”. But they’re also very close to the cheese wheels served by Acme Bakery out of their Ferry Plaza shop in San Francisco. Makes a dozen individual rolls.

Ingredients:
250 g whole rye levain @100%*
450 g King Arthur All-Purpose Flour
300 g water
1 1/2 t salt or to taste
300 g (more or less) coarsely grated cheese**

Cheese Wheel Dough

Stretched dough with cheese on top

Method: mix levain and water; add flour and autolyse 30 minutes. Add salt (the amount will vary depending on the saltiness of your cheese) then stretch and fold or knead till you have moderate gluten development (remembering that rye flour doesn’t have gluten) then cover and allow to rise till you have a good amount of lift to the dough, 3-4 hours if your levain is in good shape.

Cheese Wheel Loaf

Cheese wheel loaf, headed for the freezer

Stretch out the dough on a floured surface into a rectangle, as if making a pizza, then sprinkle the cheese over covering the entire surface evenly. Roll it up from one end then wrap in plastic wrap and place in freezer till firm but not frozen, about an hour. Slice into rounds using a serrated knife. Place the rounds on parchment paper or silicone pads on half sheet pans and allow to come up to room temperature and rise a bit, about 1 1/2 hours. Bake in a 425 degree oven till the cheese is melted and exposed bread surface is lightly browned, about 25 minutes. Best if served warm or reheated slightly in the microwave.

Unbaked Cheese Wheels

Unbaked cheese wheels, headed for the oven

*I used rye because I happened to be refreshing my starter, but Tartine’s 80/20 white/whole wheat starter would probably work as well.
**I used 8 oz cheap “Swiss” cheese because I was inspired by the current King Arthur bake along, and 2 oz sharp cheddar. Next time I’d use more cheddar or other sharp cheese and maybe some mozzarella.

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Maple madness at International Restaurant Show

Maple Gin

Gin with maple syrup … amazing. RÉDUIT Piger Henricus (at left) and regular Piger Henricus, from Quebec.

This week I was in New York City for the International Restaurant & Foodservice Show. It’s an opportunity for restaurant owners to check out new kitchen equipment, barware, dining room furnishings and such with demos from well-informed manufacturers’ reps. If you’re in the market for a food truck, gyro grill or robo sushi maker, this is your show. It’s also the first conference where I got to pee on the product: the mens’ rooms were sponsored by WizKid, a purveyor of urinal mats and disinfectants.

Food Truck Prototype

Need a new food truck?

But, as always, we were here for the food. Exhibitors included a lot of brown-and-serve bakery products and premade goodies ready to pop into a fryer, as you’d expect. But there were also some mom-and-pop operations which, one suspects, want to get exposure to food influencers without the expense of the much bigger Fancy Food Show.

Gyro Grill

Or maybe a gyro grill?

My favorite discovery was Asarasi, the world’s first organic water. Say what? It turns out that most maple syrup producers have switched to a reverse osmosis system that filters out the sugar-bearing sap at an early stage in the distilling process, leaving a lot of water as a byproduct. Asarasi bottles and sells this water, reducing waste and giving maple producers another income stream. It can legitimately be called organic because it comes from a plant cultivated to organic strictures. And it tastes pretty good, i.e. clean and refreshing with just an (imagined?) hint of sugar. (There are also flavored versions, which didn’t tempt me.) The distributor list includes mostly unfamiliar names but also Unfi and Sysco, so it’s quite possible you can get some if you ask about it.

Maple Water

Asarasi booth offered the world’s first organic water, from maple trees.

On the maple theme, there was a lot of alcohol at this show and a lot of it was maple-flavored: bourbons and ryes which spend part of their aging time in barrels that have held maple syrup. I participated in a controlled tasting which I’ll write about separately. I also ran into “Les Subversifs”, a Quebec microdistillery which makes gin with parsnips (!) plus a huge juniper berry component and mixes some of this gin with maple syrup to create a liqueur which according to the proprietress is something her family traditionally drank when they were sugaring. (No reverse osmosis for them, though they’re considering it.) Really delicious stuff. U.S. distribution is spotty at this point but it’s universally available at government liquor stores in Montreal. The gin is Piger Henricus; the maple liqueur is RÉDUIT Piger Henricus.

P.S. Before signing off, I’m going to put on my marketing hat (my day job) and get cranky about something. I usually try to hit trade shows the first day, but because of scheduling issues I attended this one on the last day. The show officially ended at 4 pm Tuesday but well before that fully 2/3 of the exhibitors had packed their booths and departed. There’s no excuse for this because it’s a local show (no planes to catch) and it’s too late to miss rush hour. If you’re not going to stay till the end, just in case that dream prospect shows up at 3:59, you might as well stay home.

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Why Walmart is a canned vegetable wonderland

 

Boiled Peanuts

Get yer Margaret Holmes Boiled Peanuts right here!

You can’t buy an assault weapon at my local Walmart, or any kind of gun if you’re under 21, but you can buy three different flavors of Margaret Holmes’ canned boiled peanuts, and that’s good enough for me.

Boiled peanuts are a southern snack which, according to Wikipedia, is made from whole peanuts in their shells that are boiled immediately after they come out of the ground. Margaret Holmes is a North Carolina brand which, among other products, offers Squash with Vidalia Onions and Red Beans with Rice, both in stock at the Wilton Walmart.

Fruit Cocktail

Fruit cocktail in pear juice, recommended.

The canned vegetables selection at my usual supermarket (Price Chopper/Market 32) has been steadily shrinking, and much of what is on display is house brands. By comparison, the canned vegetables aisle at Walmart is a browser’s wonderland. I came in search of garbanzos and found half a dozen brands, before settling on a well-priced import from Italy. I also snared a can of fruit cocktail which is packed in fruit juice (pear), not heavy syrup. It warmed my heart to be able to share this childhood treat with my own kids.

Shin Ramyan… found at Walmart.

The canned vegetables aisle is also home to Walmart’s gourmet Asian foods section (there’s another Asian section on the ethnic aisle, and it’s well stocked) where you’ll find, you guess it, Shin Ramyun from Korea in the heart of this frozen tundra. And at the very end of the aisle, the world’s smallest gluten free section. Sam Walton is surely snickering in his coffin.

Walmart’s Gluten Free section, in its entirety. (It’s at far left, where the shelves change their height.)

Raised-pinky elites tend to poke fun at Walmart customers for a habit of shopping in their underwear (partly true, in my experience) and waiting in their cars for a parking spot to open up near the entrance because they don’t want to walk (definitely true). Who knew they had such rich gourmet tendencies? Walmart also has better prices on many items I buy regularly (cilantro has been 88 cents a bundle vs a ridiculous $1.49-1.99 elsewhere) and pomegranate juice ($3.28 vs $3.99 almost everywhere else). I’m making them part of my regular rotation.

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Recipe: Cashew Coconut Clusters

Cashew Coconut Clusters

Cashew Coconut Clusters should be mixed with just enough chocolate to hold them together; the clusters in the back have too much chocolate in my opinion.

This Cashew Coconut Clusters recipe originates with the diabolical Dr. Ludwig, but I am appropriating it because his method for melting the chocolate (just mix it in with the other ingredients on the baking sheet) doesn’t work at all. Makes about 8 clusters. [NOTE: recipe revised 2/19]

Ingredients:
3-4 oz bittersweet baking chocolate or other dark chocolate* with at least 60% cocoa content
2/3 c raw** cashews, halves or large chunks
3 T unsweetened coconut flakes

Method: heat oven to 375 degrees and toast cashews on a baking sheet until barely browned, about 5 minutes, then add coconut and toast 2 minutes longer or until coconut is browned. (Watch carefully to see these ingredients don’t burn!) Melt chocolate in a double boiler and mix in nuts and coconut. Use spoon to form clusters on a silicone sheet or parchment paper, making sure that all nuts are touched by at least a bit of chocolate to hold the candies together. Cool in refrigerator till hard then transfer to a storage tub. They’ll probably stay solid at room temperature but I recommend storing in refrigerator just to be safe.

*The bitter taste of bittersweet chocolate is essential to this recipe, but many dark chocolates may not contain have enough cocoa butter to melt smoothly. I used a 9.7 oz Scharffen Berger Bittersweet Baking Bar which worked very well though it wasn’t quite bitter enough for me.

**I prefer raw cashews if you can get them, because they will be more open to absorbing flavors from the other ingredients. If you can’t find raw, roasted snack cashews should work; no need to toast them. Wipe off excess salt before mixing with chocolate and coconut.

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Foraging for my supper at Fin Your Fishmonger

Fin Agnolotti

Agnolotti with miso butter, pea sprout garnish

I admire foragers and one day hope to be one. But for now I was lucky enough to participate in the first Sunday Seafood Supper at Fin Your Fishmonger in Guilderland, held on February 18. These events will happen on a monthly basis (and possibly expanded to a Saturday night seating) so check it out if you’re interested in a future event.

Chef Rob Handel is quite a guy. He gathers wild cherries, taps his own maple trees, and forages black walnuts to make noisette. Even in the dead of winter, he was able to turn out a meal in which each course had a local or foraged element.

Fin Salad

Salad with house made peanut miso dressing (the highlighted sprig at right is a wild chive leaf)

We started with hand-rolled agnolotti topped with miso butter and filled with house-made ricotta. The garnish was pea shoots which Rob had grown over the few days prior to the event.  Then, on to cod dumplings floating in a broth made from maple water—the first, not-sweet tapping of this year’s sap harvest—and flavored with juniper twigs. Next arrived a refreshing salad with a dressing featuring house-fermented peanut miso and crowned by a couple of perfectly broiled prawns—Fin definitely knows their fish.

Fin Fish

Branzino with olive tapenade, toasted barley pilaf, blackened green beans

This was followed by my favorite of the courses, a branzino (sea bass) filet coated with tapenade and served over a delicious barley pilaf made with toasted barley cooked in more of the maple water. We finished with a “lime mousse” which was more like a custard, impossibly rich and creamy. Chef Handel says he took a standard pie filling recipe (key lime pie?) and added more cream for a stand-alone dish. It was topped with a syrup made with those sour cherries I mentioned which had been aging in his cellar since last spring.

Fin Lime Mousse

Lime mousse with sour cherry syrup and house-made graham cracker

I found the dishes very comforting and complete and the foraged elements approachable, almost too much so. I realized when I bit into the fish with its intense olive topping that I was looking for more assertive flavors like that. Perhaps at future events the chef will make available some extra amounts of the foraged ingredients for the more adventurous guests to sample on the side. But I’m not complaining. It was a smoothly executed first effort, and the table conversation (most of the diners were State employees who knew Dora of Fin from the stall she runs in the basement of Empire Plaza) was more than enjoyable. I’ll be back.

Fin Your Fishmonger is at 2050 Western Avenue in Guilderland, NY, south and west of the Crossgates Mall. Fresh fish and take-home meals are available Tuesday-Saturday and a limited selection of fried fish rolls, fish tacos and such can be ordered to eat in house. 518-452-4565.

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Recipe: Black Bean Tofu Scramble

Black Bean Tofu Scramble

Black Bean Tofu Scramble

A few tweaks, and Dr. Ludwig’s Tofu Hash becomes a versatile, vaguely Mexican vegan entree you can serve without apology to all and sundry. It’s also cheap, and made with ingredients you quite possibly have on hand. What’s not to like? Serves 4-6 as main dish, more as a side.

Ingredients:
l lb firm tofu
15.5 oz can black beans, or 2 c cooked made-from-scratch black beans
1/2 bell pepper (red or green), cut into thin strips
1 jalapeño, cut lengthwise then into thin slices, seeded
1/2 large onion, peeled and cut into thin slices
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 T olive oil or neutral oil
1 T chili powder (generic)
1/2 t ground cumin
1 t Kosher salt
1/4 t ground black pepper
Dash of cayenne pepper
Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)

Method: heat oil in a large skillet and add bell pepper, jalapeño and onion; sauté until soft. Add garlic, chili powder and cumin and cook quickly until fragrant. Crumble tofu into the pan; drain the black beans and add to the pan. Allow to heat for a few minutes then add salt, pepper and cayenne. Adjust seasoning as required and serve hot.

Note: this dish is a flavor chameleon that goes with almost anything. Try topping with melted cheese, salsa, guacamole, sour cream or a few slices of avocado.

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