Ethiopian food and cultural appropriation

Injera Fries Schug

Leftover fries on injera with a dollop of Lebanese schug… hardly authentic, but delicious.

Is it okay that the best Ethiopian cookbook in English is written by a white, ethical vegan feminist? We’re talking about Teff Love by Kittee Berns which, after exploring multiple sources online, still produces the best results in our ham-handed attempts to replicate the meals we’ve had in Ethiopian restaurants.

A possible answer is this blog post by Sistah Vegan, which came out at the time Teff Love was published in 2015. The author’s beef (our poor choice of words) wasn’t with Berns or the book, but rather the publisher’s promos that the book “demystified” Ethiopian cooking and might make readers who are in fact Ethiopian feel marginalized because they are assumed not to be in the mainstream of American society.

Is it okay that the best Sichuan cookbook is written by Fuchsia Dunlop, an Englishwoman? Can barbecue be racist by perpetuating certain white stereotypes about black pit bosses in the South? Our answers to these questions would be yes, and no. We respect the cultural concerns these questions bring up, but we’re here for the food. We taste something new and different and want to make it in our kitchen, and it doesn’t matter if it’s raw liver from Hawaii or pickled tripe from the Pennsylvania Dutch (not Amish).

Some of our fondest memories from our time in the Bay Area are the Chowhound dinners which featured a mix of non-Asian, Chinese American and native Chinese foodies tasting the very best banquet style meals that were often designed just for us. The chefs were proud of their skills and the ethnic Chinese diners were proud to share part of their culture. This pride comes from sharing something very special that you’ve worked hard to attain. If the anglo diners were appropriating Chinese culture, at least our curiosity was respectful.

As regular readers of this blog will have noticed, we’re currently obsessed with Ethiopian food. We’ve tinkered with a number of the standard recipes you find in almost every U.S. Ethiopian restaurant including tibs, gomen and kitfo, but yearn to know more about the variety available in the mother country. Ethiopia is geographically diverse with deep valleys (including the Rift, home of early human Lucy), mountains and high plateaus and each region has its characteristic crops and foods. We are tempted to just go there and see for ourselves, as did this African-American restaurant owner from the DC area. However, most of the popular restaurants in Addis Ababa, the capital, are Italian according to TripAdvisor; Ethiopia was occupied by Italy before and during World War II though citizens like to point out it was never a “colony”.

Injera Butter Honey

Instead of biscuits for breakfast, try butter on injera with honey.

In the meantime, we’ve been tinkering with ways to enjoy non-Ethiopian dishes on injera, and enjoying the sharp sourdough taste and the pleasure of eating your serving utensils. Almost any food that is finely textured (or chopped into small pieces) and has the consistency of a stew is a candidate. A typical Texas BBQ plate of brisket, beans, slaw and potato salad could easily be served on injera instead of a side of white bread. If that’s cultural appropriation, we plead guilty and please pass the Tabasco.

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Recipe: Gomen (Ethiopian collard greens)

Gomen Recipe

Gomen is typically served with kitfo in an Ethiopian meal

This Gomen recipe is borrowed from Kittee Berns’ Teff Love, except that I’ve substituted Niter Kibbeh for her vegan ye’quimen zeyet since it’s being served with kitfo. Add a dollop of ricotta to your injera (substituting for the Ethiopian ayib) and you’re good to go. Makes 4 ½ c servings.

Ingredients:
1 T niter kibbeh
½ red or white onion, peeled, sliced and cut into strips
2 cloves garlic, grated
½ t grated ginger
1 bunch collards, very finely chopped
½ c water
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: sauté onion in niter kibbeh until very soft, 10 minutes or so. Add garic and ginger and cook just until fragrant, about a minute. Add collards and water and stir to mix in, then cover and cook over low heat until thoroughly wilted but not mushy, about 10 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve with kitfo and ayib/ricotta on injera.

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Water. Flour. Salt.

Hungry Ghost Whole Wheat Boule

Amazing whole wheat boule from Hungry Ghost in Northampton, MA made with nothing but water, flour and salt.

Water. Flour. Salt. Is the English translation of one of our favorite blogs, from a Romanian baker named Codutra. (Sadly, it’s gone on hiatus but the recipes are all still there, though you’ll need a translation app if you don’t speak Romanian.) It’s also a reminder that sourdough bread is at its essence those three things, when you don’t count the wild yeast captured from the air and nurtured in the water and flour mix. (Salt has not yet been added since it retards yeast development.)

Salt is by far the least of those three ingredients in weight and volume, but it has an outsize impact on taste. When we did a miche test with legendary local baker Michael London a few years back, he commented that most home bakers don’t use enough salt. That’s why we recommend you taste your bread dough early in the process of kneading or stretch-and-fold or mixing in the Kitchenaid. The amounts of salt in recipes are hard to measure by weight so we typically dump in about two teaspoons full by eye in a dough of 1500 grams or so, then taste and usually add a little more.

Well, we’ve been enjoying the delicious bread from Hungry Ghost in Northampton MA brought back by frequent travelers to that hamlet, and yesterday we had the opportunity to compare their whole wheat boule against our own bread that had just come out of the oven. And we realized the secret to their bread that makes it come alive on the tongue is…. A whole lot of salt!

Improv Bread

Our own improvised batard is not half bad. But maybe it could use some more salt.

Our own loaf was excellent, and also a one-and-done because it was made with a bunch of orphan ingredients in small amounts we were trying to use up: kamut flour (7% by weight), white rye flour (13%), a handful of millet, freeze dried blueberries and orange-flavored cranberries from Trader Joe’s. It was a wonderful slice spread with butter, but the Hungry Ghost boule held its own with nothing more than water, flour and salt.

It’s scary to just start adding salt because once you’ve oversalted your bread you can’t go back. But I’m now thinking the acceptable salt level is higher than we thought. Try this: for your next bake, divide your dough in half. Salt one portion as you normally do, then add 50% extra to the second loaf. Let us know what happens and what you think. We’ll do the same experiment here and report back.

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Recipe: Kitfo (Ethiopian steak tartare)

Ethiopian Raw Beef Kitfo

Here’s our kitfo after a toss in niter kibbeh. Just a shade removed from raw.

If you like steak tartare you’ll probably enjoy kitfo, a spiced raw meat dish which is traditionally eaten in Ethiopia to break the vegetarian fasting period. As with steak tartare, you need to be confident of the source of the meat and the food safety procedures of your butcher. If you’re more cautious, it’s acceptable to cook it a little or a lot, to the doneness stage of ground beef you’d use in a pasta sauce or sloppy joes. We landed just on the uphill side of raw, with some bits slightly cooked but still risky. Allow ¼ lb per person.

Ingredients:
1 lb coarsely ground beef, fat and connective tissue removed
4 T niter kibbeh (Ethiopian clarified butter)
½ t ground cardamom
½ t cayenne OR 1 t berbere seasoning
1 t salt
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

Method: heat the niter kibbeh to liquid stage; add garlic and spices and heat over low flame until fragrant. Spoon over raw beef and mix lightly. Serve immediately with injera for scooping up the bites. Kitfo is traditionally served with gomen, or seasoned collard greens, and a mild cheese akin to ricotta.

Here is a blog post with a bit more background on kitfo. Be sure to read all the comments!

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Recipe: Injera (Ethiopian steamed flatbread)

Injera Stack

Our injera recipe makes about 8 pancakes, enough to serve four

[3/20: before you begin, see UPDATE at the bottom of this post.] We have long been obsessed with making an injera recipe at home, as evidenced by this thread on The Fresh Loaf started in 2015. We achieved a satisfying texture and taste, but our pancakes lacked the signature holes (they’re so important they have a name, eyen) that soak up the savory products ladled on top. Turns out the secret is to use non-chlorinated (i.e. bottled or purified) water because chlorine has a devasting effect on the yeast that lives symbiotically on teff grains. This injera recipe makes 8 medium pieces, enough to serve four, but you probably want to double it to have some for later. Note that it evolves over several days, and includes a number of “auntie” steps where you will use your judgment rather than relying on specific directions.

Ingredients:
1 c teff flour (ivory or dark) for the starter (ersho)*
Non-chlorinated water for the starter
1 c all purpose flour
½ c teff flour (ivory or dark)*
2 c  non-chlorinated water
½ t ground fenugreek
½ t salt (add this just before cooking)
A large non-stick pan with a lid (preferably glass) for cooking

Method: to make the starter (ersho), add non-chlorinated water to teff flour in a glass jar sufficient to mix into a thick paste. Cover with a towel and rest in a warm dark place until you can see bubbles through the sides of the jar and the surface of the starter is spongy. This will take 2-4 days depending on temperature and the freshness of the teff. (Note to sourdough bakers: we found the teff starter to be much more lively and reactive than a starter made from wheat flour.) Transfer 2 ½ T of this starter to a mixing bowl and save (refrigerate) the starter for your next injera recipe.

Add flours and fenugreek to the mixing bowl, then add water gradually till ingredients are evenly mixed and continue adding the rest of the water; teff doesn’t interact with water like wheat flour so you will end up with a layer of liquid on the top which is okay. Cover with a towel and rest in a dark warm place until bubbles start to form on the surface, about 2 days. (If a bit of mold appears on the surface, just spoon it off and discard.) Pour the liquid off the top into a jar; reserve for cooking the injera. Mix the remaining batter well then transfer ½ c to a non-stick skillet on very low heat. Stir with a spatula till it turns into a rubbery solid, a couple of minutes. Transfer to a plate (or just leave in the skillet) and cool to room temperature. Pour the reserved batter into a blender or food processor; add the rubbery absit; blend until the mixture is smooth without lumps.

Injera Cooking

This injera is just about ready to cover: most the surface is covered with eyen and turning from shiny to dull.

For the final prep, rest the batter until bubbles begin to form on the top. This can take anywhere from 2 hours to a day. Add salt and part of reserved liquid and blend with a whisk until it is the consistency of heavy cream (you may not need all the liquid.) When you think it’s ready, heat a 12-inch non-stick pan to medium heat. Make a test pancake by pouring a little batter into the pan. It should form little craters all over the surface then the appearance of the surface should change from shiny to dull. If this happens, you’re ready to cook your injera. If there are few or no holes, let the batter ferment for a couple of hours or even till the next day.

Injera Assembly Line

Cooked injera cooling on towels

To make your production injera, pour ½ c batter (use a measuring cup) into the skillet then tilt it in all directions till the edges reach the side of the pan. Heat until craters form all over the surface and the appearance changes from shiny to dull; cover and continue to heat 1 minute or more till the edges of the pancake begin to curl up from the pan. (The bottom of the injera should not change color.) Remove cover and flip the pancake out onto a towel; it will be delicate initially but will become more durable and elastic as it cools. Continue until batter is used up. When the injeras are completely cool and dry, transfer them to a plate and put the plate inside a large zip bag unless you are serving them immediately.

To serve, present a flat injera on a plate (hole side up) with various Ethiopian (or other) preparations ladled on top. Typically there will be small amounts (maybe ½ c each) of four different items, each in its own quadrant, and maybe a bit of salad in the middle. Serve the second injera on the side, rolled up or in stacks on a platter. To eat, the diner tears off a piece of the second injera and uses it to pick up the ingredients on the plate, then tears off the injera on the plate plus its ingredients to finish the meal. If you run out of injera for grabbing and don’t have extras, we think it’s okay to use a spoon.

*Teff flour is available on amazon.

UPDATE 3/20: after two excellent batches, we have been unsuccessful at recreating the generous eyen you see in the photos above. We are on track for a solution but not quite there yet. Here are some learnings if you want to follow along:
*The teff starter (ersho) is VERY prone to attracting mold. We’ve taken to pouring a little non-chlorinated water into the storage container, on top of the starter, and this seems to protect it in the same way that the layer of liquid that forms in your bowl of batter keeps it from molding. Or, just allow a couple of extra days to make fresh ersho from scratch since the teff flour is very predictable in its fermentation properties.
*We revisited Kittee Berns’ injera recipe and realizes she does a couple things differently than we did. First, she cook the injera two days after mixing the batter, rather than our longer fermentation. Second, she covers the injera immediately after pouring the batter into the skillet, rather than letting it start cooking as we did.
*Keep in mind that heat activates but then kills yeast, in the same way you get oven spring when you start baking bread. If your skillet is too hot, the yeast may die before forming good eyen. This may be the most important discovery of them all.
*The Ethiopia cookbook has an alternate method of making absit which we (and you) might want to try. In a large saucepan, bring 250ml of water to a boil. Whisk in 125ml of the base batter and 125ml of water. When this mixture begins to thicken and bubble, remove it from the heat. It should have the consistency of cooked porridge. Let it cool to just warm, then follow above instructions for mixing with batter.
*Finally, if you do your very best and end up with injera that’s more like crepes, no holes, don’t despair. They will still taste good and provide a suitable platform for your Ethiopian cooking experiments. Don’t throw them out.

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Revisiting Four Roses Bourbon

Four Four Roses Bourbons

Four Roses bourbon tastes at Saratoga Wine & Food Festival.

Like a lot of people who came of drinking age in the second half of the 20th century, I had a poor impression of Four Roses bourbon. It was an inexpensive blend without much benefit other than its ability to produce a hangover. But it turns out things have changed dramatically since Kirin acquired the brand around the turn of the century.

Four Roses had a tasting booth both days at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. I spent some time with Stephen Schuler, the rep from Proof Positive, talking about his bottles. The low-quality blend has been discontinued and the company now makes four bourbons for U.S. sales from 10 different recipes. The recipes are a mix-and-match of two separate mash bills (the blend in grain used) and 5 different yeast strains.

Four Roses Bourbon 80 blends all 10 recipes in a proprietary formula and rectifies (adds distilled water to control proof) to a final proof of 80. It’s an easy drinking everyday bourbon (I tried it in an old fashioned as well as neat) on a par with my standby, Evan Williams, and light years better than the harsh fusel oils in the blended product of my college days. About $20 at retail.

The Small Batch, 90 proof, blends 4 of the 10 recipes. It starts with a ripe berry note that reminds me of the fruity red wines that were popular a few years back, turns to a mellow nuttiness, and ends with a spicy kick in the back of the throat. High $30s at retail.

The Single Barrel, 100 proof, uses only one recipe (a high rye mash bill and a delicate fruit yeast strain). It has a deeper, more complex flavor profile—Schuler says he can taste notes of toasted caramel, cacao nibs, tobacco, leather. On my first visit to his booth this was the bourbon he poured when he found out I was an Islay drinker; it has the same kind of intensity that makes you sit up and take notice. Low $40s at retail.

The Small Batch Select, 104 proof, is blended with a similar process to the Small Batch using 6 of the 10 recipes. It is non-chill filtered which gives it an appealing syrupy mouthfeel that coat the palate. Schuler finds lots going on with this bourbon: nose of raspberry, clove and nutmeg; apricot, berries, vanilla and light oak in the flavor profile; lingering spearmint finish with a light touch of cinnamon. It’s a bourbon drinker’s bourbon, with layer upon layer of what a bourbon lover loves. Around $80 at retail.

By the way, according to Wikipedia there’s some historical fuzziness about the origin of the Four Roses brand. Some say it was originally distilled by four guys named Rose, which makes sense. But Kirin has a much more romantic story which leaves out the Roses entirely:

It began when Paul Jones, Jr., the founder of Four Roses Bourbon, became smitten by the beauty of a Southern belle. It is said that he sent a proposal to her, and she replied that if her answer were “Yes,” she would wear a corsage of roses on her gown to the upcoming grand ball. Paul Jones waited for her answer excitedly on that night of the grand ball…when she arrived in her beautiful gown, she wore a corsage of four red roses. He later named his Bourbon “Four Roses” as a symbol of his devout passion for the lovely belle, a passion he thereafter transferred to making his beloved Four Roses Bourbon.

However, they call this the “legend” rather than actual historical fact. Something to speculate about while you are enjoying a few sips of Four Roses bourbon.

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Last look at the 2019 Saratoga Wine & Food Festival

Charcuterie Plate

Apps at the VIP portion of the “Forest Magic” dinner, at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival, including pickled fiddleheads.

Last weekend’s “Forest Magic” dinner and Grand Tasting were sold out and everybody supporting SPAC through the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival seemed to be having a grand time. In every way it felt like an elevated experience from previous years, and we look forward to what’s to come in 2020. Here are a few highlights in pictures.

Dining Tent

Getting ready for dinner in the “Forest Magic” tent next to the Reflecting Pool.

Sculpture at Sunset

Sculpture at sunset, on loan from the Hyde Collection.

Porchetta

Porchetta stuffed with sausage, from chefs Michael Blake and Kevin London.

Apps on Tray

Passed apps during the “Forest Magic” happy hour.

Lardo Toasts

Oregano-infused lardo… the most decadent delight of the evening.

Forest Magic Second Course

The three-course Forest Magic dinner may have been the only misfire of the weekend. There were three courses, each a collaboration between two chefs, and the first two featured corn. More coordination and maybe solo presentations might work better in the future.

Inside the VIP tent at the Saturday Grand Tasting.

Kolonien

Kolonien, a zydeco-infused band from Sweden, sponsored by Caffé Lena.

Hamlet Ghost Mezcal

Single-origin mezcal cocktails from Hamlet & Ghost.

Siros Platter

The most generous offering at the Saturday Grand Tasting may have been this platter of spit-roasted beef tenderloin and rack of lamb plus olives and tomatoes in agrodolce, from Siro’s. The bees loved it, and so did we.

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Your Grand Tasting strategy for today

Grand Tasting Wine Pour

Get ready for some excellent sampling and imbibing at today’s Grand Tasting of the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival.

Today, October 5, is the Grand Tasting of the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. The VIP portion (sold out) starts at 11 with general admission (tickets still available) at noon. At last night’s elegant dinner, both the weather and the crowds were exceptionally well behaved. Hopefully the same will hold true today, but it can’t hurt to share a few pointers we came up with for prior events:

  1. Arrive early. The crowds are likely to get thicker as the event goes on, and many of the most popular stations may run out of food. Why chance it? There’s likely to be a backup at the gate when the event opens, so 15 minutes after is just right.

  2. Head for the back of the tent. People tend to gravitate to the first thing they see once they get inside, so those first few stations will be mobbed. Walk right past and head for the rear wall. Remember, when you’re standing in line you’re not eating/drinking (unless you’ve brought something from another station, which doesn’t seem a proper thing to do).

  3. Eat before drinking. The food is likely to run out first. Plus, not a bad idea to coat your stomach before pounding beer/wine/hard liquor.

  4. Have a liquor strategy. You can’t drink everything and don’t want to since quality is likely to vary widely. Decide on a particular drink category and stick to that. Coming off the first overnight freeze of the season, I’m going to look for toddies and similar warming concoctions.

  5. Wear dark clothes. Should have put this first. You are inevitably going to spill something at some point so be prepared. And if you get through the afternoon without an accident, give yourself a high five at the end.

  6. Study the map, assuming there will be a map of some kind. You don’t want to miss out on a participating restaurant or beverage distributor because you couldn’t find them or didn’t know they were there.

  7. Take Lyft or Uber, or have a designated driver. This is a Wine & Food Festival, after all, with unlimited pours of some very good stuff. Don’t have a bad end to a perfect day.

Elizabeth Sobol and crew seem to have done a magnificent job in planning the new format, so the above admonitions may not be necessary. But they can’t hurt. See you there (by the Reflecting Pool) at Spa Park.

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An Ayurvedic chef and much more at Saratoga Wine & Food Festival

Wine Pour Saratoga

There will be plenty of wine to sample at Saturday’s Grand Tasting at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. Photo by Bigler Productions.

This weekend’s Saratoga Wine & Food Festival got off to a fast start with a good crowd at the Ayurvedic cooking demo on Tuesday night; details below. As promised, here’s a list of the chefs who will be participating in this weekend’s events. The Friday event is sold out as of this date but a waitlist is available; get your tickets now for Saturday to avoid a sellout of that as well.

New to 2019 festival is the “Forest Magic” Farm-to-Table Harvest Dinner, curated by Kim Klopstock of Lily and the Rose in collaboration with John Sconzo of Rascal & Thorn and local progressive chefs Dan Spitz of Fat N Happy LLC, Yaddo’s head chef Michael Blake, and Kevin London, owner of Farmhouse Restaurant at Top of the World. Pairing the region’s top talent with national chefs Diego Moya, Executive Chef of Racines in NYC, rated one of America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants of 2019 by Wine Enthusiast, and Austin Peltier, an expert on Ayurvedic cooking practices, the teams of two will each present a course that incorporates sustainable and locally sourced ingredients. This event is currently sold out; to add yourself to the waitlist call the SPAC Box Office at 518.584.9330 x135.

Highlighting the weekend destination event are farm-to-table chefs Tim Spedding and Louise Rødkjær Jørgensen from Britain who will utilize some of the best local produce for Friday’s VIP Farm-to-Table Harvest Dinner and prepare canapés for the VIP Grand Tasting. Tim Spedding is recognized as one of the UK’s most exciting and influential young chefs. Together with his partner Louise Rødkjær Jørgensen, the pair plans to open their own restaurant and inn in the beautiful Cornwall countryside focusing on farm-to-table cuisine.

Chef Adam Peltier presents Ayurvedic diet concepts at Cultivate event in Skidmore’s Falstaff Hall.

We attended the “Cultivate” demo with Austin Peltier earlier this week and can predict you are in for a treat when you taste his cooking. He gave us a quick overview of the principles of the Ayurvedic diet and served us roasted sweet potatoes which had been prepared with three different palates of flavor and ingredients to correspond to different aspects of Ayurvedic diet (Vatta, Pitta, Kapha); they tasted delicious rather than medicinal. Looking forward to a truly outstanding experience this weekend.

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Recipe: Shime Saba (pickled sushi-style mackerel)

Saba on Shiso

Shime Saba recipe results, in a shiso burrito.

Shime Saba means, literally, shiny mackerel. This saba recipe is very easy to make at home and the taste will be close to what you enjoy in a quality sushi bar. The visuals? Not so much, until you practice filleting, removing the silverskin and picking out the little bones a lot more than we did. But you can roll it up in a shiso leaf for a saba burrito, and the flavor will be so good you won’t care what it looks like. Makes four appetizer servings.

Ingredients:
1 very fresh mackerel, typically a bit under a pound
Kosher salt
Rice wine vinegar

Saba Fillets

Our saba fillets were not sushi-chef quality, but serviceable.

Method: fillet the fish (or have your fishmonger do it) and discard head, tail, fins and backbone. Coat both sides of each filet with salt (use more than you think you need) and lay flat in a container in refrigerator for one hour. Carefully rinse the salt off the fish (this source suggests you dip it in a bowl of water) and pat it dry with paper towels; rinse the container. Return the fish to the container and cover with rice wine vinegar. Marinate 2 hours, turning the fish at the halfway point. Discard vinegar and pat the fish dry.

Removing Saba Silverskin

Removing saba silverskin.

Before serving, you need to remove the inedible silverskin which is a thin top layer above the shiny exterior skin. Find a place where you can get a grip on it near the front of the filet and pull down (toward the belly) and back. Hopefully you can get it off in one piece. You also need to pick out some fine bones which are hidden in the backbone area; I couldn’t locate them in the whole filet and had to pick them out after I had sliced the saba into individual pieces.

To serve, slice top-to-bottom into ½ inch thick slices. If you’ve done a good clean job filleting you can cut at an angle to expose more flesh; otherwise cut straight down. Serve on sushi rice as nigiri, or eat plain with a garnish of shiso leaves.

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