Review: Purple Carrot meal delivery program

Purple Carrot Meal Kt

Purple Carrot meal kit includes a fresh onion and a lemon, delivered in an insulated box.

A giant insulated box arrives at your door. On opening it, you find several packets of cooking ingredients. You notice a smallish yellow onion at the end of one of the packets. Your reaction?

If you said “what in the world is that?” this service might be a good solution for you. The directions are clear and the ingredients are pre-measured, reducing the chance of mistakes even for someone with no cooking experience. If you said “that looks like an onion, but I’m glad I don’t have to go to the supermarket and buy my own” this service might also be for you. We’re amazed how half the traffic in our local supermarket nowadays seems to be Instacart or the store’s own employees, putting together orders for customers who don’t want to come into the store because of COVID or because they just don’t enjoy the experience.

If you said “why in the world would somebody send me an ordinary onion in a great big expensive box?” then you’re in our camp. Not only is this a very wasteful use of materials and carbon, but we enjoy the experience of picking out our own food and would be crushed if that was taken away from us.

Purple Carrot is a unique service because it’s vegan. We had the opportunity to try half a dozen meals over the past couple of weeks, though we did not pay for them and were not comped. The best thing that can be said is that the recipes are quite good, which is to be expected as many of them were developed by old reliable Marc Bittman at the service’s launch in 2016. However, the recipes are available online and there are very few proprietary ingredients so you could easily make them yourself and save the money and gut-punch to the environment. (They do use animal replacements like vegenaise, but if you’re vegan you probably have such items on hand and if you’re not it’s easy to make non-vegan substitutions.)

Purple Carrot Ingredients

Some of the individually-packaged ingredients in a Purple Carrot meal kit.

The waste continues with the many small containers of portioned ingredients, such as rice vinegar or the vegenaise, though the containers might be repurposed for specialty oils or spice mixes in a mise en place. We consulted with a family member who’s ordered other kits, including Home Chef and HelloFresh. He confirmed that waste is an ongoing issue and said HelloFresh seems to use less packaging, but they pre-cut the ingredients which he didn’t appreciate because they seem less fresh that way

This article has a more exhaustive comparison of the services, though it doesn’t mention Purple Carrot. The writer also points out that these may be a healthier alternative to restaurant meals because they use less fat and salt. And if your cost comparison is an entrée in a moderate restaurant vs buying and preparing a comparable meal yourself and paying shipping, then meal delivery kits become a more attractive proposition.

If meal kits proliferate, maybe one service will reach the critical mass where they can deliver a reusable/returnable container, equivalent to the milk box on our porch which the local dairy restocks with milk and other items as they pick up empties. That would remove our biggest objection, and we might include them in our menu rotation.

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Your first Thanksgiving turkey

2017 Turkey

Follow our recommendations, and your first Thanksgiving turkey can look like this!

Local food blogger Deanna Fox commented on the radio that a lot of folks are going to be cooking their Thanksgiving meal at home for the first time, due to precautions that keep them from traveling to usual family meals. If this is your first Thanksgiving turkey, we have a few tips.

Focus on the turkey. Don’t hesitate to order takeout or just buy from the supermarket for sides and desserts. By successfully roasting your first Thanksgiving turkey, you will gain a life skill you can use year after year.

Allow ample defrosting time. We always publish our Thanksgiving tips post a day early because if you have a big bird and you take it out of the freezer on Tuesday, it’s almost too late. If you’re cooking for a smaller group, you probably have a 12 pounder and you’ll be fine if you take it out of the freezer now and transfer to the refrigerator to defrost for 3 days. If you need to speed up the process you can leave it at room temperature for part of the time or submerge the bird in its wrapping in room-temperature water in your sink. If you have a fresh bird, of course, you’re ahead of the game.

Brine your bird, or don’t. Stuff it, or not. (But if you do brine, rinse the turkey inside and out and pat dry before stuffing, otherwise it will be too salty.) Just have a plan. You really can’t go wrong if you have a strategy and stick to it. This year we are trying something new: a pre-brined small turkey from Trader Joe’s. No idea how it will turn out, but no doubt it will be good. Turkey can be intimidating because of its size and all the sturm und drang around the holiday but it’s a very forgiving protein to cook.

Finally, a couple of tricks to avoid a turkey day disappointment. The breast cooks much faster than the rest of the bird so you should always protect it during roasting. We like to soak a paper towel or cheesecloth in a generous amount of melted butter or olive oil, then drape it over the breast and cover with aluminum foil. The last 20 minutes of baking, remove the foil and the cover so it can brown to match the rest of the bird. Also, consider wrapping foil around the wing tips so they don’t get too crispy to enjoy.

That’s pretty much it… follow the above steps and you’re highly likely to end up with a great meal and a new skill. If you want to complicate things, check out our Thanksgiving clips post which has ideas and links for the big day as well as sandwiches the day after.

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Recipe: Shanghai-Style Pickled Cabbage Appetizer

Shanghai Style Pickled Cabbage

Shanghai Style Pickled Cabbage

According to Woks of Life, Shanghai-Style Pickled Cabbage is often served complimentary in mainland restaurants. It’s a perfect palate-cleanser between courses of barbecued Chinese meats and would be at home with American BBQ as well (like maybe a smoked turkey for Thanksgiving). In fact, it reminds us quite a bit of sour slaw. Makes 16 appetizer servings.

Ingredients:
1 medium head green cabbage, about 2 lbs
2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped into bite-size bits
¼ c Kosher salt
2 c water
1 c white sugar
½ t Kosher salt
1 c white (distilled, not rice) vinegar
2 bay leaves
4 cloves garlic, smashed
fresh or dried chili peppers (optional)

Method: cut the cabbage according to your preferred method into bite-size pieces. (Woks of Life likes to hand-tear it into 3 inch squares but those were a bit floppy for our taste; we recommend grating or chopping into shreds). Mix with the carrots and salt in a large bowl and work in the salt thoroughly with your hands until all surfaces have been exposed. Let it cure in the refrigerator 1 to 1½ hours, until liquid has started to pool in the bottom of the bowl, but not so long the cabbage starts to wilt.

Meanwhile, heat the water, sugar and ½ t salt with the bay leaves until sugar is dissolved. Add vinegar and cool to room temperature. Rinse the cabbage and carrots in several changes of water to wash out salt and press dry with clean kitchen towel or paper towel. Mix in the dressing and add smashed garlic and peppers to taste. Cure in refrigerator for 24 hours, stirring from time to time. (It will throw off more liquid.) Serve cold in appetizer portions.

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Results of our Thanksgiving Dinner Candy Corn taste test

Thanksgiving Dinner Candy Corn

Thanksgiving Candy Corn flavors, top to bottom: Turkey, Green Bean, Cranberry Sauce, Sweet Potato Pie, Ginger Glazed Carrot, Stuffing.

You have doubtless been on pins and needles wondering about the results of our Brach’s Thanksgiving Candy Corn taste test. To recap, a few weeks ago we invited readers to send in a stamped self-addressed envelope and receive the six flavors Brach’s has been promoting as their Thanksgiving Dinner assortment and then participate in a comparative tasting via Zoom.

What happened? The post office happened. Mail was crawling at a snail’s pace at election time and nobody received their samples by the originally scheduled tasting date. So we tried again and succeeded last Sunday, November 15, and a merry time was had by all.

During the Zoom call, we asked participants to arrange their samples in the order shown above and then we guessed about what flavor was which. Green Bean and Cranberry Sauce were identified by color and it was a good guess that the solid orange corn was Ginger Glazed Carrot. To identify the other three flavors, we’d have to dig in.

Green Bean went first since we didn’t have a salad course, and this flavor was universally disliked. The most common complaint was a “grassy” flavor; nobody thought they tasted like green beans. Next we went with the flavor on the bottom which we thought might be turkey because of its yellow bottom (=meat) and brown top (=gravy). But one taster recognized a bready taste and we realized it must be Stuffing. This was also a highly unpopular flavor; like actual stuffing it combined a number of discrete tastes but unlike stuffing they didn’t go well together.

We tried the Cranberry to cleanse our palates and everybody liked this one in the way you like candy. But the taste was distinctly cherry, not cranberry; one of our younger tasters said it reminded him of a cherry Jelly Belly. Then we tried the one on the very top and that was the Turkey–but with the slightly rancid taste of turkey skin that has been in the oven too long. No fans for this gobbler. But the last two flavors hit it out of the park. Carrot had a delightful ginger essence and Sweet Potato Pie had notes of both ginger and cinnamon. I won’t say we were stuffed when we finished, but I will say none of us wanted any more candy corn.

I’ve attended several virtual tasting events during the pandemic, and this was the most successful yet. The small number of tasters (under a dozen, counting kibitzers at the various locations) meant everybody could and did participate in the commentary, and we were discovering together rather than being guided through the process.

If you want to conduct your own tasting, Brach’s Thanksgiving Dinner Candy Corn is now available on Amazon (affiliate link!) and if you act fast you can get it by actual Thanksgiving. For obvious reasons, this item is non-returnable.

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Goodbye Old Thermy, Hello Big Blue

BlueStar Range

Big Blue, aka #BSP488B 48″ Platinum Range in Heritage Blue w/ Stainless Trim, in her new home.

Like you, we’ve used the pandemic as an excuse to do some projects around the home. Our biggest investment was a new 48-inch BlueStar range, which arrived this week. We are loving it so far though it is a powerful beast that requires much learning and calibration of technique, I suppose not unlike riding a racehorse or driving a Model S in Insane Mode.

Thermador Professional Range

The last we saw of Old Thermy, getting loaded into the Adirondack Appliance truck.

I’ve written about Old Thermy, the 30-year old range that came with our house, and it was sad to see her go. But Bosch (which now owns the Thermador brand) no longer supports it and as electronic parts failed they could not be replaced. When we started looking into new stoves, the BlueStar was an easy choice. It’s mostly mechanical with very few electronic parts to worry about, and it’s made right now the road from us in the Keystone State, Pennsylvania USA. Plus the New England Sales Manager for BlueStar, Tom Thibeault, is based out of Adirondack Appliance in our home town of Saratoga Springs. So it was relatively easy to get what we wanted (though there are universal shortages of appliances during the plague) and we know who to call if we need service.

Abbaka Hood Instal

Hood install. This monster is solid brass and must have weighed close to 200 pounds.

However, the most exciting thing about this install might not be the stove but the hood, the solid brass Abbaka that Tom took on as a project to rebuild. The original liner/vent system was disabled in a fire so Tom came up with an ingenious solution: two single-blower BlueStar vents mounted at facing angles to create a vortex, plus custom-made rails to make it fit the old hood without gaps. As a bonus Tom steam-cleaned away the decades of grease and polished it to a glow. We couldn’t be more pleased.

Tom Thiebeault

Tom Thibeault with our new baby.

On the first night we cooked hand-torn Sichuan cabbage in a wok (with one of the burner grates removed to make the hot heat even hotter), warmed sauce on the simmer burner and grilled off some spiedies for sandwiches in our hoagie rolls. No complaints at all.

BlueStar Grilling

Our first grill on the new stove: lamb spiedies.

If you’re in the market for a professional-grade home stove, I’d certainly recommend you look at BlueStar (and contact Tom Thibeault at Adirondack Appliance if you live in the northeast; reach him through Adirondack Appliance at the link above or call BlueStar at 610-301-9934). We found surprisingly little useful info on high-end stoves online; the site that typically ends up at the top of searches is Yale Appliance, a BlueStar dealer. Capital, a manufacturer of roughly equivalent stoves, seems to be in trouble and their local dealer was not interested in our business. We did not consider Thermador for reasons stated above. The next tier down is stoves like Viking which look rugged but have been compromised to keep costs down; not interested. After this install (which took the better part of a day) looks like Big Blue will be with us for a while and we’re good with that.

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Recipe: Italian Deli-Style Hoagie Rolls

Italian Deli Style Hoagie Rolls

Italian Deli-Style Hoagie Rolls.

These Italian deli-style hoagie rolls started with a recipe on the highly enjoyable Wood Fired Kitchen blog. We made extensive changes to the technique, but kept a couple of secret ingredients which the author says came from Conshohocken Bakery in Blue Bell, PA. The dough develops terrific tensile strength which is what you need when the roll is piled high with ingredients, and they taste great on their own with a sweet/salty, chewy essence. Makes six 9-inch rolls.

Ingredients:
2 t dry yeast
4 t white sugar
½ c lukewarm water
400 g (2 ¾ c) all-purpose flour
170 g (1 ¼ c) high gluten flour (we used Sir Launcelot from King Arthur Flour)
1 ½ t Kosher salt
¼ t citric acid
130 g (2/3 c) whey*
130 g (2/3 c ) lukewarm water
Olive oil
2 T semolina (for baking pan)

Hoagie Roll Crumb

Hoagie Roll has open yet sturdy crumb, perfect for building a sub.

Method: mix yeast, sugar and ½ c lukewarm water in the bowl of a rotary mixer (Kitchenaid or equivalent) with dough hook. Rest 10 minutes until fizzy. Add all other ingredients except oil and semolina and mix on first speed till well blended, about 2 minutes. Scrape down bowl then knead on second speed 7-9 minutes. During this time the dough will become tight and cohesive and clean the sides of the bowl; don’t add more flour or water unless it’s goopy (+flour) or clumpy (+water) which would indicate a mixing error or an irregular batch of ingredients.

Italian Pork Sandwich

For our first hoagie, we made a rough approximation of this Dinic’s copycat Italian pork sandwich.

Remove the dough hook and remove the bowl from mixer. Shape the dough into a ball with your hands. Add a splash of oil and turn the ball to coat all sides. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise to 2-3 times its original volume, which should take 2-4 hours in a warm kitchen. Punch the dough down and give it a sequence of ten or so stretch-and-folds to develop tensile strength, then return to the bowl and cover. Allow to rise another 2 hours or so until doubled in size.

Shape the dough into six balls and rest 20 minutes or until the dough is sufficiently relaxed to work. Roll out into 9-inch torpedoes and transfer to a baking pan which you have sprinkled with semolina to avoid sticking. Cover with a towel and rest 30-45 minutes until the rolls become fluffy. Bake in a preheated 425 degree oven with steam until lightly browned, about 40 minutes. (Difference vs baguettes: we removed the cover after 10 minutes, since we weren’t seeking a crispy crust.) Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool completely before serving.

*Make your whey from full-fat yogurt (not Greek yogurt). Line a strainer with cheesecloth or a coffee filter and pour in the yogurt; drain overnight in the refrigerator. Collect the liquid in a pan below the strainer; this is your whey. Return the yogurt (which can now be considered Greek yogurt) to the container and use it as you normally do. If you end up with less than 2/3 c whey, add water to make up the difference.

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A visit to Seasoned Restaurant at SUNY Adirondack

Seasons Table Setting

Table setting at Seasoned at SUNY Adirondack


The excellent Casola Room at Schenectady County Community College is doing takeout only during COVID, so we tried a new place with a similar program: Seasoned Restaurant at SUNY Adirondack in Glens Falls, NY. We were drawn by Facebook photos posted by local butcher Emily Petersen of the work done by students in her primal cuts class. We wanted some of that beef!

Pass Seasons

The pass at Seasoned.

Programs like this exist primarily for the benefit of the students, so you need to jump through some reasonable hoops to eat there. Seasoned serves lunch on Wednesdays only from 11:30-12:30, dinner from 5:45-7 pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays and a takeout lunch on Thursdays from 11:45-1:00 only. You’ll need to follow health protocols including a questionnaire before you enter (also available in an online app to save time). For your trouble, you’ll be rewarded with a creative three-course meal in a fine dining setting at a fair price–$15.95 at lunch, $26.95 for dinner (which adds a fourth course) including beverage, plus tax and tip. A wine pairing is available.

Rabbit Leg

Rabbit Leg with burnt onion and a small whole sweet potato (not shown) plus fennel foam.

We really liked the creativity of the SeasonsMenu on the day we dined, eg “Honey Basted Rabbit Leg. Baked Sweet Potato. Burnt Onion. Fennel Mustard Air.” Since we had traveled a good distance we also sampled a second three-course meal including a serving of balsamic marinated flank steak so we could try some of the fruits of Chef Petersen’s butchery class.

Seasoning was a bit cautious, as you might expect in this setting; you don’t want a first-semester student to ruin a nice and expensive piece of protein. Presentation was excellent. Service was… as we have found at Casola Room and when dining at the Culinary Institute of America, chef training students are there to learn cooking and show few chops when pushed to the front of the house. But our server was pleasant and kept his mask over his nose, most of the time.

Lemon Chiffon Pie

Lemon Chiffon Pie at Seasoned.

If you want to go, check the website first to be sure school is in session and they’re serving. Seasoned is in a new medical building just north of Glens Falls Hospital; the entrance is on Hudson St which is to the side of the main entrance facing the hospital.

Correction: an earlier version of this post had the name as Seasons; Seasoned is the correct name of the restaurant.

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Make your own pumpkin pie spice

Election Cake with Pumpkin Pie Glaze

Election Cake with Pumpkin Pie Spice Glaze

Pumpkin pie spice is the key flavoring for pumpkin pie and other autumnal delicacies, since pumpkin doesn’t have much taste on its own. (Which is why it’s interesting that people panicked about not being able to find canned pumpkin during the pandemic, when One Pie or another canned squash would have done just as well.) You can buy it on any supermarket shelf, but you already have the ingredients in your pantry so why not make your own pumpkin pie spice?

According to McCormick, the “warm taste” and “spicy-sweet flavor” of their product are due to four ingredients (in order of their quantity in the mix); cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and allspice. Simply Organic has the first three ingredients in the same order then substitute ground cloves for allspice as does Frontier.

When we got home after inspecting jars at the store, we looked up a few recipes to make your own pumpkin pie spice. Taste of Home has a recipe with 4 t ground cinnamon, 2 t ground dried ginger (which by the way is a very different product than fresh ginger), 1 t ground cloves and ½  t nutmeg. We liked that ratio and reduced it mightily to make a pumpkin pie spice glaze for our Continue reading

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Recipe: Polpette (Big Italian Meatballs)

Polpette and Pasta

Polpette recipe presented as spaghetti and meatballs.

Polpette are the big nicely-spiced meatballs found in Italian-American pasta dishes (they are apparently not found in Italy itself, where the meatballs are much smaller) and in meatball subs. When researching this polpette recipe we came across the wonderful Nonna’s Way blog which includes a wealth of dishes and Italian-American-grandma preparation techniques. We’ve made some tweaks but the unusually large quantities of some ingredients are in most cases Nonna’s. Makes 8-12 meatballs; allow 2 per person when serving with pasta and gravy.

Ingredients:
1 ½ lb ground beef, pork, veal or a combination*
2 eggs, beaten
½ c or more finely chopped Italian (flat) parsley (leaves only, no stems)**
¼ c peeled garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 12 cloves)
¾ c grated parmesan cheese
¼ c bread crumbs
2 t Kosher salt
½ t ground black pepper
2 T whole milk
2 T olive oil

Polpette in Pan

We recommend browning the polpette in the oven, not stovetop, to keep their shape.

Method: dump all ingredients in a big bowl and mix thoroughly with your hands; shape into meatballs and transfer to a cast iron skillet or oven-safe pan. Bake in a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 25 minutes until surface is brown and crispy. Drain, and serve hot or reheated with tomato sauce over pasta or in sub roll.

*Ground meat recipes typically include a combination that leads with veal, but we don’t find it adds much to the flavor in the product that’s typically sold today. We recommend using a beef/pork combination or simply all beef.

*Nonna uses 2 ounces of parsley which is maybe two whole bunches chopped, less the stems. We have reduced that but there’s nothing wrong with using more if you like parsley.

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Why top sirloin is our favorite cut of beef

Top Sirloin Detail

Top sirloin is our favorite cut of beef…. cooked nice and rare like this.

What is our favorite cut of beef for steaks? You probably thought we were going to say New York strip or rib steak, but in fact we’re voting for top sirloin! Here’s why. Top sirloin combines value and versatility with a good amount of beefy flavor and reasonable tenderness for a lean cut. And top sirloin steaks are BIG, typically close to 2 pounds, which makes them a convenient choice for a small family: cook one, and you’re done.

Beef Cut Top Sirloin

Illustration by Joe Smack via Wikipedia.

 

Top sirloin comes from the loin so it’s more tender than round steak which is close in appearance. It’s technically two muscles, the gluteus medius and the smaller biceps femoris. The muscles are similar in taste and tenderness so it’s fine to separate out the biceps femoris and serve as a smaller individual steak.

Top Sirloin Refrigerator Aged

Our top sirloin after a bit of refrigerator aging is ready to marinate then cook.

We like to marinate (though it’s not completely necessary) our top sirloin steaks in a mix that includes soy sauce, a splash of fish sauce, pepper, olive oil, finely chopped garlic and maybe some seasoning like five spice or dried oregano. (No salt other than what’s in the soy, letting the diner add to taste at the table.) We grill or pan-fry them to rare or medium rare, then let them rest. You’ll get a good amount of juice that can be poured on top of the steak or mixed with other ingredients like mashed potatoes. The large gluteus medius is consistent in texture and flavor across its surface, so feel free to separate into convenient serving chunks or slice into 1-inch strips against the grain and serve that way. Leftovers go into salads or sandwiches…. Good eating!

Top Sirloin Plated

Look at all those delicious juices!

We think, though don’t have verification, that top sirloins were the massive cuts manipulated by Dario Ceccini in Heat. (Affiliate link) Go big or go home! We also like New York strips, of course, and they make a nice presentation, but they are generally considerably more expensive than top sirloin. Our favorite used to be rib steaks, with or with the bone, but they’re surprisingly hard to find at a reasonable price these days—maybe everyone is treating their families to prime rib roasts during the pandemic so there’s nothing left over for steaks. So top sirloin it is. To coin a phrase, it’s what’s for dinner.

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