Recipe: Lentil Salad, Two Ways

 

Lentil Salads

Lentil Salads: with carrots and cilantro (l) and with olives, feta and mint (r).

Both these lentil salad recipes come from Cook’s Illustrated though we’ve made some changes. Because they have the same base preparation, it’s a good idea to make them at the same time though you wouldn’t necessarily serve them together. Each recipe will serve 4-6 as a component of a salad service with multiple choices.

Ingredients:
1 c dried green or black lentils (don’t use orange or yellow lentils which turn into mush when cooked)
1 t Kosher salt
4 c hot water (hotter than body temperature), for soaking
Chicken or vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
5 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
5 T olive oil
½ t Kosher alt

For recipe 1:
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 2-inch matchsticks
½ t ground cumin
¼ t ground cinnamon
Generous pinch cayenne
2 T lemon juice
2 T finely chopped cilantro leaves (some stem okay), plus more for garnish

For recipe 2:
¼ c finely chopped mint leaves, plus more for garnish
¼ c coarsely chopped kalamata olives, pitted
2 T white wine vinegar
2 T finely chopped shallot or red onion
2 T feta cheese, crumbled, plus more for garnish

Lentil Salad 1

Lentil Salad 1

Method: dissolve 1 t Kosher salt in 4 t hot water. Add lentils and soak for at least an hour. Drain and rinse. (According to Cook’s Illustrated, this step helps the lentils retain their shape when cooked.) Transfer the lentils to a saucepan; add bay leaf, garlic and an equal mix of stock and water to cover the lentils with an extra inch of liquid on top. Simmer until just tender, possibly 30 minutes, checking frequently to add water/stock if needed and make sure the lentils don’t cook. Drain lentils and pour over cold water to stop the cooking process. Discard bay leaf and garlic. Add 5 T olive oil and ½ t Kosher salt and mix well.

Lentil Salad 2

Lentil Salad 2

For recipe 1, mix the matchstick carrots with spices in a small glass bowl; add a little water, cover and microwave until just tender, maybe 1 ½ minutes. Mix into HALF the prepared cooked lentils along with lemon juice and cilantro leaves. Give the flavors an hour to develop then taste the salad and add more salt if needed.

For recipe 2, mix HALF the prepared cooked lentils with chopped mint leaves, olives, white wine vinegar, shallot/red onion and feta. Give the flavors an hour to develop then taste the salad and add more salt if needed.

Serve at room temperature, with garnish if desired.

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Recipe: Spicy Eggplant with Miso

Spicy Eggplant with Miso

Spicy Eggplant with Miso.

We had fond memories of the spicy eggplant with miso recipe from Japanese Country Cookbook, an artful paperback issued by the long-closed Mingei-Ya in San Francisco. But when we picked up a used copy we were surprised to discover most recipes were loaded with sugar. We’ve reinvented the recipe with zero sugar, since miso is plenty sweet on its own. Serves 4 as a vegetable side dish.

Ingredients:
1 lb Japanese eggplant (the long, skinny ones)
Kosher salt
Oil for sautéing
½ t red chili flakes
½ c or so chopped scallions, including the green
3 T red or yellow miso
3 T water or mirin or a combination

Method: trim off the stems and slice eggplant, unpeeled, on the bias into wedges about ¾ inch thick. Sprinkle exposed flesh with salt and rest in a bowl or colander until a good amount of liquid has been pulled out, about half an hour. Dry thoroughly with paper towels then sauté in wok or pan until eggplants are tender, maybe 7 minutes. Add scallions and sauté till slightly wilted. Add chili flakes. Mix miso and water/mirin and stir till it reaches a smooth consistency like heavy cream. Add to the eggplant in the skillet and mix in; heat through and serve over rice.

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The hunt for MegaChef

 

Oyster Sauce End Cap

Oyster sauce end cap at Shun Fat Supermarket. No MegaChef though.

We had avoided crossing the Bay Bridge on our previous Bay Area food crawl because I did not want to pay the one-way toll when I returned to San Francisco. It’s only $6 but if you are driving a rental car they may add a service charge for the toll tag, then bill you again every day till you turn in the car. But what I did not realize is that you can now make an online payment without using a toll tag. A game changer!

Kouign Amann Comparison

Kouign Amann from B and Rotha. Rotha’s is closer to the original with fewer laminated layers.

As with our earlier adventure, we started with a theme which was quickly abandoned. In this case it was a hunt for MegaChef oyster sauce, a Thai brand users insist is superior to all others. U.S. distribution is spotty, but with the myriad of Asian groceries in the East Bay surely we could find a bottle for a taste comparison.

Our first pin on the map was Shun Fat Supermarket in San Pablo (at the northern end of Alameda County, just before you turn inland) which had shown up in web searches for MegaChef. But first we would stop at Pâtisserie Rotha, a bakery which is said to have taken the mantle of best kouign amann in the bay area from B Patisserie in San Francisco. They’re only open from 7 to 11 (8 to 11 on Saturdays) and quickly sell out. The kouign amann was indeed excellent as was a croissant, a bostock and a version of the Chinese dan tat or custard tart. These pastries were dense, jewel-like and delicious. I was on my way.

Durian

No returns on durian! At Berkeley Bowl.

A visit to the eerily uncrowded 99 Ranch Market in Pacific East Mall yielded no MegaChef so it was back on the freeway. San Pablo Supermarket, as Shun Fat calls itself on its sign, had no MegaChef Oyster Sauce but they did have so many other oyster sauce brands that I realized a comparative tasting would be much more ambitious than I wanted. The hunt for MegaChef effectively ended at that moment though we’d continue to check for it at each stop.

Next on the itinerary were Monterey Market and Berkeley Bowl, two old haunts with fabulous fruit and vegetables in the tradition of produce markets run by Japanese-Americans. (Both had a grocery section with oyster sauce; neither had MegaChef.) I also stopped at the original location of the Cheese Board Collective to pick up a pizza and some cheese. (I’ve had complaints that the excellent sourdough baguettes here are simply leftover pizza dough but according to their website the opposite is the case; the collective started making pizza as a way to use up leftover dough and cheese.) Anybody visiting the Bay Area should put these establishments on their punch list, along with Chez Panisse across the street from Cheese Board on Shattuck. (Legend has it that Alice Waters located her restaurant in the “Gourmet Ghetto” specifically because Cheese Board was across the street.)

Cam Huong Bahn Mi

#10 Bahn Mi at Cam Huong.

Then it was down the road to Cam Huong, which I recalled as a solid bahn mi place from visits two decades ago. It’s moved from Oakland Chinatown to the gritty realm of International Blvd and is doing takeout only at present (as a general rule, Asian food places seem to be much more cautious about re-opening). I normally order the dac biet or special combination, but the best choices here are the #5 shredded pork with anchovy sauce (i.e. fish sauce) and #10 beef wrapped with onion. Really ideal balance of bread and quality fillings.

And now it was time to virtually pay my $6 toll and cross back in to San Francisco, where I picked up a kouign amann at B Patisserie (ordered in advance online, something you can do here but not at Routha) for comparison purposes. Since I still had the rental car, I made three more stops the following day, all in the San Mateo area. Takahashi Market is a small grocery store that gets an air shipment from Hawaii each Friday (not Thursday as on the website); the must-get item is ogo, a crunchy seaweed that commonly appears in poke in the islands but for some reason isn’t normally imported. Suruki, a few blocks down the street, is destination shopping for perfect sushi fish. They also have odds and ends at non-astronomical prices: I picked up about 2 pounds of yellowtail scraps for $4 and they made an excellent fish chowder. And they have MegaChef fish sauce, proof that the brand exists.

Wakuriya Takeout

Takeout kaiseki from Wakiruya.

The final stop on this odyssey was Wakuriya, a Michelin one-star kaiseki restaurant which is bravely serving its multi-course meal for takeout during the pandemic. The quality and presentation (including the world’s smallest ice pack, nestled in with the sashimi) were incredible and the value ($60 for the whole meal, normally $95 when served for in-person dining) can’t be beat. We were haunted by the rhubarb vinegar served with thin slices of wagyu ribeye, and will be trying  to duplicate it on these pages at some point.

At this point we were foodied out, with zero interest in MegaChef Oyster Sauce. But if we have second thoughts, we can always get it on Amazon.

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Recipe: Bleu Cheese Spread

Bleu Cheese Spread

Bleu Cheese Spread, which The Pleasure of Cooking calls “Coulis Bleu”.

You want bleu cheese on your burger, but the crumbles keep falling off. This Bleu Cheese Spread recipe is the remedy. Coat the top or bottom of your bun, the patty itself, or all the above. This is another recipe from The Pleasure of Cooking, adapted for mixing in a mini-chop instead of a full size Cuisinart. Makes about 2/3 cup.

Ingredients:
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 oz blue cheese, crumbled
2 oz cream cheese, cut into several pieces
5 drops tabasco
1/3 c neutral vegetable oil

Method: purée all ingredients in mini-chop. Spread on hamburger buns or whatever. Refrigerated, the excess will keep for a couple of weeks.

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Recipe: Onion Buns

Onion Buns

Onion Buns from Cooks Illustrated recipe.

This Onion Buns recipe comes from Cook’s Illustrated, in its very early days when it was a digest supporting a new product called the Cuisinart food processor. Update: we were completely wrong in the above recollection. The pub was called The Pleasure of Cooking and had no relation to Cook’s Illustrated other than a (probably intentionally) similar layout. To learn more, go down this wonderful rabbit hole on eGullet. We’ve standardized the instructions for non-machine mixing. Makes 8 buns.

Ingredients:
1 medium onion, about 5 oz, peeled and chopped
2 T unsalted butter
1 ½ t active dry yeast
1 t sugar
¼ c warm water
3-3 ½ c all purpose flour
1 t salt
3/4 c water
Polenta or semolina flour
1 egg or egg white, beaten with a pinch of salt

Method: dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water and rest till frothy, about 5 minutes. Sauté onion in butter till softened. Reserve about 2 T onion for topping and mix the rest with the flour, salt, yeast mixture and 3 c water in a medium bowl. Stir to combine well then rest (autolyse) 20 minutes or so. Knead the dough 7 minutes until it shows good gluten development, adding more water if necessary to hydrate dough; the finished dough should be slightly sticky but not wet.

Onion Bun Burger

Burger Time! with onion buns.

Cover the bowl and let the dough rise until doubled, about 1 ½ hours. Punch down the dough then divide into 8 balls. Flatten and transfer to a half sheet pan with a silicon pad that has been lightly dusted with polenta or semolina flour. Cover with plastic wrap or a towel and let rise 3 minutes until puffy. Brush the tops with beaten egg/egg white then add a bit of onion to each one. Bake in a preheated 425 degree oven 15-20 minutes until lightly browned,

 

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Recipe: Chicken Long Rice

Chicken Long Rice

Chicken Long Rice, a luau staple.

Chicken Long Rice is like chicken noodle soup with a kick of ginger. It’s a luau staple and reputed to be a good hangover cure. Makes 2 main dish portions or 4 appetizer portions.

Ingredients:
3 c chicken stock (should be intensely flavorful; reduce a standard stock or add a hit of good concentrated chicken bouillon if necessary)
½ lb boneless chicken thigh
Neutral oil for sautéing
2 T peeled ginger, sliced into batons
2 cloves garlic, peeled (optional)
½ t salt plus more to taste
1 package (2 oz) cellophane bean thread noodles, or use equivalent amount of thin rice noodles
2 green onions, sliced into thin rings including most of the green

Bean Thread Noodles

These are the noodles used for Chicken Long Rice. In a pinch, you could use “rice stick” noodles.

Method: salt chicken thigh(s) and sauté in a small amount of oil for a couple of minutes on each side, just enough to seal the skin. Drain oil and add ginger, garlic and chicken stock. Simmer over low heat till chicken is tender, about 25 minutes. Remove chicken and cool to handling temperature and cut into shreds. Return chicken to pot along with green onion and heat. Serve very hot.

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Recipe: Lomi Lomi Salmon

Lomi Lomi Salmon

We like the fish and tomato cut to a uniform 1/2 inch size in our lomi lomi salmon.

Lomi Lomi Salmon is a luau staple that deserves to be on a lot more mainland tables. It’s a light, refreshing mix of salmon and tomatoes with a hit of onion and salt and can be eaten as a main dish or a salad. We like ours as it was served at the Salvation Army Tea Room in Manoa Valley, with the salmon and tomato chopped into equal size pieces and a minimum of liquid. Serves 6 as an appetizer or 4 as a main dish.

Ingredients:
1 lb salmon fillet
1 lb (maybe a bit more) Roma tomatoes
1 t coarse Hawaiian sea salt or kosher salt, plus a bit more if needed after tasting
1/2 c sweet onion, peeled and chopped
3 green onions, including a lot of the green part, sliced into rings

Salmon Skinning

Use a filleting knife or other sharp knife to remove skin from salmon. Press the knife into the underside of the skin then cut forward to keep the meat intact. Don’t worry about a few ragged pieces; they’ll disappear in the finished product.

Method: if the salmon has skin, peel it off using a sharp knife and save the skin for a crispy treat. Salt the fish on both sides and rub it in (this is the first “lomi” or massage). Refrigerate for 2 days or a bit longer, turning the fish daily and rubbing the skin to distribute the salt.

On serving day, chop the salmon into half-inch cubes. Cut the tomatoes in half, scoop out seeds and pulp, then chop tomato into pieces the same size as the salmon. Mix in onion and green onion and toss or work with your hands to combine the flavors (this is the second “lomi”). Refrigerate at least 2 hours then taste before serving and add salt as needed; we used an additional 1/2 t. Serve very cold

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Recipe: Radish Kimchi

Radish Kimchi

Radish Kimchi

Radish kimchi is just as good as the kind made with Napa cabbage, and at typical prices for daikon is also a lot cheaper to make. We like the recipe from My Korean Kitchen because it contains a number of halmoni (grandma) techniques, and have changed it only to genericize some of the ingredients. Makes about a half gallon, enough to fill one of those big kimchi jars.

Ingredients:
2 lb daikon, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch cubes
3 green onions, including some of the green part, sliced crosswise into 1/2 inch pieces
2 T sugar
2 T Kosher salt

½ small brown onion, peeled and chopped
½ small red apple, cored and chopped
3 T fish sauce
1 T garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
½ T ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
¼ c gochugaru (Korean chili flakes)*
1 T rice flour or white flour
¼ c water

Radish Kimchi Cure

After mixing, ready for the cure.

Method: toss the radish with the sugar and salt and rest for an hour at room temperature. It will throw off quite a bit of liquid. Rinse well and drain in a colander. Mix in a bowl with 2 T gochugaru (adding it separately provides extra color to the kimchi) and green onion. Meanwhile, mix rice flour and water till lumps are absorbed then heat in a microwave oven for 1 minute. It will become a sticky paste. Combine in a mini-chop with onion, apple, fish sauce, garlic, ginger and 2 T gochugaru and blend into a slurry. Combine with the radish mixture and blend until very well mixed. (Tradition is to use your hands, wearing gloves, but a big spoon works fine.) Allow to cure at room temperature for 24 hours then transfer to a jar and refrigerate. Radish Kimchi will be ready to eat in a week and will stay crunchy for several weeks thereafter.

*This provides a fairly mild chili taste, which is desirable if you are serving this along with a spicier kimchi in a panchan assortment. But feel free to add more gochugaru if you like, either during the preparation or after tasting the next day before you refrigerate.

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We’re eating chemicals. Anybody got a problem with that?

Pistachio Jello pudding

Sugar-free Pistachio flavor Jello pudding is our favorite so far. It contains real pistachio bits!

We’ve recently discovered Sugar Free/Fat Free Jello 5-Minute Pudding. A box is 93 cents at our local Wal-Mart (there’s also a house brand, with identical ingredients, for 50 cents) and makes four half-cup servings. You mix it with milk: skim is recommended for the true fat-free experience but we used whole. You whisk it in a bowl for three minutes, after which time it will be significantly thicker, then transfer to a refrigerator dish or just leave it be and it will reach pudding consistency within five minutes.

We’ve tried half a dozen varieties so far and they’re all good. (They also taste pretty much the same, at least the french vanilla/white chocolate/cheesecake flavors.) The sweetener is Acesulfame Potassium. Some find it bitter but it tasted fine to us, maybe because it’s cut with another artificial sweetener, aspartame. As usual, there are studies indicating these chemicals are bad for you, but if you’re concerned about toxicity you should worry more about the salt content: if you eat the whole bowl (and you probably will) you’ve just absorbed your entire daily sodium allocation.

Pistachio Parfait

An imperfect parfait assembled with Greek yogurt, Trader Joe’s coconut granola, strawberries and sugar free pistachio. Really good!

You could enhance the basic recipe by layering with granola and berries–voila, parfait! Amazon reviewers have more ideas including freezing into popsicles, mixing with yogurt or cream instead of milk, or sprinkling on popcorn. You can also find creative recipes on Pinterest by searching for “jello powder recipes”.

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Recipe: Best Pimento Cheese

Best Pimento Cheese Recipe

Best Pimento Cheese Recipe? You decide.

We considered all the variations, tested a few, and came up with a product we’re pretty satisfied with. Is this the best pimento cheese recipe? Taste and decide for yourself. The only thing we are waffling on is the allium component: the grated raw onion really brings out the sharpness of the cheese, but feel free to substitute green onion or onion powder.

Ingredients:
16 oz extra sharp cheddar cheese
3/8 c mayonnaise (we used a mix of Hellman’s and Duke’s), plus more as needed to moisten cheese
¼ c finely chopped pimento from a jar; you can substitute roasted red bell pepper but then add 1 t cider vinegar
1 t Tabasco or other hot sauce
½ t Worcestershire sauce
¼ c finely chopped onion, or green onion, or 1 t onion powder
1 t powdered mustard
2 t paprika, smoked if you have it
Salt and pepper to taste: start with ½ t Kosher salt and ¼ t pepper, then add more if needed

Best Pimento Cheese Recipe

Taverna Novo serves their pimento cheese in clear wine cups so you can appreciate the cheesiness of it as you dig in.

Method: grate the cheese using the second-coarsest side of a box grater. Add all other ingredients to a mini-chop along with any cheese pieces that don’t make it through the grater, then chop until pulverized. Mix into the grated cheese, adding more mayo as needed until the cheese is fully lubricated but not runny/soupy. Taste for salt and pepper, keeping in mind the flavors will intensify over time. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, then bring to room temperature before serving. Serve with crackers or on celery sticks.

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