Baguette tricks and techniques from King Arthur Baking Education

Quick Baguettes

Baguette tricks and techniques produced some pretty decent loaves.

We traveled to Norwich, VT a few weeks ago for the half-day “Beauty and the Baguette” class at the stste-of-the-art King Arthur Baking Education Center. We’ve taken a more intensive baguette class there in the past and mainly wanted to experience a live vs remote class after so many Zoom sessions during the pandemic. As it turned out, we learned quite a few new baguette tricks and techniques which we’ll share in this post.

The importance of calculating desired dough temperature (DDT). Yeast is happiest at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, which is probably a bit higher than your kitchen and ingredients and certainly well above the temperature of tap water. Solution: heat the water to a bit warmer than body temperature to offset the lower-than-ideal temperatures of the other ingredients. A much more exact water temperature formula is here, but you can get pretty close with the simple body temperature hack.

Kneading wet dough on the bench without flour. This is a bit show-offy, but fun to master and you will end up with a perfectly clean bench when you’re done. After your initial mixing of dough in a bowl, dump it out onto the bench and make repeated downward chops into the wet mass using a bench knife held at a slight tilt, with the knife parallel to your body and the top closer to you than the bottom of the blade. Move from front (closest to you) to back, making half a dozen chops, the flip the dough mass with the bench knife and repeat till the flour is fully incorporated into the liquid. This takes the place of autolyze but only requires a minute or so.

Then, knead the dough using this “baby animal” technique. Imagine the dough mass is a baby animal lying on its back, its left side facing you. Pick it up by its “arms” by pinching the dough between first finger and thumb, one hand on each side of the dough. Lift the dough off the bench then make a quarter-turn clockwise. Drop the bottom of the dough (the baby animal’s “feet”) onto the bench then fold over the top; repeat. At first this process will be very messy but as gluten develops it will be much smoother and the dough will develop an even vs ragged surface. If dough sticks to the bench, scrape it off with the bench knife and incorporate back into the dough mass. After 7 minutes the dough should be sufficiently developed and you can scrape it clean from the bench and transfer to the mixing bowl for proofing.

Some extra steps for consistent, well-shaped baguettes. Shaping is an ongoing problem for home bakers who don’t make enough baguettes to develop muscle memory. These little tricks should help. A/when you flatten the dough ball you have proofed onto the bench to form a baguette, pull out the corners so you have a true rectangle; this insures consistent shaping for the next step. B/make a letter fold (1/3 of the flattened dough folded down top to bottom), then turn the dough 180 degrees and repeat. Then (this is the new part) insert your left index finger into the center of the flattened dough on the right edge and fold top and bottom over it with the other hand. Repeat, moving down the entire length of the dough, then pinch the edges to form a seal. C/when rolling out the baguette to full length after B/, start with one hand in the middle and create a “dog bone” that is thinner in the center than on the ends. Then use both hands to roll out and extend the dough to the thickness of the center section.

Bakers Couche

Bakers Couche with shaped baguettes.

Additional techniques for proofing and loading baguettes. We have a very well used proofing cloth (it’s heavy linen, purchased at King Arthur years ago) that is saturated with old flour so sticking is unlikely. Position the cloth (“couche”) in a half sheet pan with its side overlapping the long edge of the pan. Sift fresh flour onto the top of this (the sifting makes sure it is evenly coated) and transfer your fully formed baguettes onto the cloth one at a time, then fold along the length of the cloth to make a ridge and load the next baguette until all are loaded, then fold over the excess cloth to cover them while they are proofing. (If you have no extra cloth because you’re making lots of baguettes, cover with kitchen towels.)

Managing seams when transferring baguettes. You want the seam side (that edge you pinched shut in your initial shaping of the baguette) facing DOWN when baking for the best oven spring. To insure this, have the seam side DOWN when you load the formed baguettes into the proofing cloth. When they are fully proofed, flip them out of the proofing cloth by rolling them onto a piece of light plywood cut a little longer and wider than your baguette, so the seam side is UP. Then flip them again onto the surface you will use for baking so the seam side is once again DOWN.

These few baguette tricks and techniques helped us make some of our best loaves ever. Hope they work for you as well.

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Recipe: King Arthur Quick Baguettes

King Arthur Quick Baguettes

King Arthur Quick Baguettes.

King Arthur Quick Baguettes can be ready in just a few hours (after you make the poolish the night before, which takes maybe 2 minutes) so you can start after lunch and have delicious warm baguettes to serve with dinner. The recipe, as well as a few new techniques, comes from the half-day “Beauty and the Baguette” class we took at the Norwich Baking Education Center after live classes resumed in Summer 2021. Makes 2 very long baguettes or 3 medium baguettes to fit a half sheet pan (length about 17 inches).

Ingredients:
For the poolish:
150 g warm water (a little hotter than body temperature, 105 degrees or so)
150 g all purpose flour
Pinch of active dry yeast
For the final dough:
Fully proofed poolish
312 g all purpose flour*
177 g warm water (a little hotter than body temperature, 105 degrees or so)
1 t active dry yeast
1 ½ t Kosher salt

Equipment for baking:
Half sheet pan
Foil baking pan (like for Thanksgiving turkey) with exterior dimensions similar to the half sheet pan

Quick Baguette Crumb

Very happy with this crumb. It’s open without too many big holes, so it’s perfect for spreading cheese or paté.

Method: make the poolish the night before (or very early in the morning for an afternoon bake). Add water to yeast in a large bowl and stir to dissolve, then mix in flour till smooth, It will start with the consistency of thick pancake batter but will thin out and become light and bubbly, with a yeasty aroma, as it proofs. Once the poolish is fully proofed it can be used immediately or held for 4-14 hours.

To make the final dough add the final four ingredients to the poolish and mix with a spoon or plastic bowl scraper until uniform. Autolyze 20 minutes or so, then turn out onto a floured board and knead till gluten is well developed, 8 minutes or so. The dough will be very yet at first but try to avoid adding flour by using a light touch in kneading. Proof in a warm room 90 minutes with one fold or additional kneading step at 45 minutes.

Form into 2 or 3 balls of equal size and rest for 20 minutes, then roll out into baguettes. Proof in a floured baker’s cloth, with ridges formed to separate the loaves, until the dough just begins to spring pack when you poke it with your finger. (If it does not spring back it’s not ready; if it springs back all the way it is overproofed.) Meanwhile, heat oven to 500 degrees along with a sheet pan you will use for baking.

When oven is hot, carefully transfer the hot sheet pan to a trivet and sprinkle with semolina flour to prevent sticking. Load the loaves onto the sheet pan by rolling them onto a plank of plywood or carefully transferring with your hands. Slash the tops, spray with water for a crispy crust if you like, and cover with the inverted foil baking pan. Bake for 15 minutes, remove the aluminum baking pan, and bake another 15 minutes until golden brown. Baguettes when done should have a crackling crust and a hollow sound when thumped.

*If you like, replace about 50g of the APF with einkorn (our choice), spelt, whole wheat or another darker/denser flour.

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Recipe: Crab Hush Puppies

Crab Hush Puppies

Crab Hush Puppies.

For a Southern twist on surf-and-turf, offer Crab Hush Puppies with chicken fried steak! And for even more fun, substitute 1 c finely chopped okra for the crab! The base recipe comes from The Kitchen and it’s solid but a bit dry; provide some lemon butter or remoulade for dipping or our favorite from the Sycamore Inn and San Dimas CA: maple syrup! Makes about 18 hush puppies.

Ingredients:
1 ½ c fine- or medium-grind cornmeal
½ c all-purpose flour
1 ½ t Kosher salt teaspoons kosher salt
1 ½ t baking powder
½ t baking soda
1 c grated onion (about half an onion, grated on the coarse side of a box grater)
1 large egg
1 c buttermilk or a bit more if needed
1 c lump crabmeat, broken up into small pieces*
½ c finely chopped chives or parsley (optional; this is for color more than favor)
Oil for deep-frying

Method: thoroughly mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. Beat egg then blend with buttermilk and add to dry mix. Stir to blend; it should be a bit thicker than thick pancake batter and should hold onto a spoon turned upside down. Mix in crabmeat and chives/parsley then rest the batter for a few minutes while you heat the oil.

Heat cooking oil to 365 degrees. Form the hush puppies with a tablespoon; scoop up a round of batter that stands up in the spoon and carefully slide into the oil. Repeat, frying a few at a time without crowding. Fry the hush puppies, turning from time to time, till they are a dark golden brown, about 4-6 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. (Properly cooked, the hush puppies should absorb very little oil.) Continue until all puppies are done and keep warm in a low oven, if desired, while you prepare other dishes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

*We used one of those 6-oz cans from the fishmonger’s cold case, but fresh crabmeat would be even better.

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Recipe: Perfection Salad

Perfection Salad

Perfection Salad.

Perfection Salad is a good example of the creative congeals, aka aspics, that we like to serve down south. The original recipe was published in a recipe book called Dainty Desserts for Dainty People (that’s us for sure!) published in 1915. Ours uses sugar free lemon jello, and adds carrots which greatly enhance the eye appeal. It’s also a bit sweet, so you might consider substituting an envelope of unflavored gelatin for one of the lemon jello packets. Makes 16 servings and can be halved if you like.

Ingredients:
2 packages sugar free lemon jello
1 c finely shredded cabbage
1 c finely shredded carrots
1 c celery, finely diced (macedoine)
½ c red or green bell pepper or a combination, finely diced (macedoine)
½ c white vinegar
3 ½ c water (2 c boiling, 1 ½ c cold)
1 t salt
Mayonnaise for topping

Method: mix the jello with boiling water according to package directions and stir till gelatin is completely dissolved. Add cold water, white vinegar and salt and chill until it starts to set, a couple hours. Mix in vegetables and transfer to individual molds or an 8” square pan. Chill until thoroughly set. Unmold for serving; if you are using a square pan use a spatula to cut into servings and then lift out of the pan. (For easier unmolding place the jello pan in a larger pan with enough hot water to come close to the top of the jello pan; leave for a minute then test with a spatula. As soon as the jello separates easily from the pan, remove it from the hot water and cut into servings.) Serve with a dollop of mayonnaise (preferably Kewpie.)

Perfection Salad

Here’s the original recipe for Perfection Salad, from Dainty Desserts for Dainty People. “Sparkling Gelatine” was a product that included a packet of lemon flavoring the homemaker could add if desired.

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Fourth of July barbecue 2021

Grilled Corn

We’re making our Fourth of July grilled corn like this from now on.

We celebrated our Fourth of July early this year to accommodate some out of town visitors. The highlight was sweet local corn grilled with a technique we’ll use from now on. The ears in their husks had the ends lopped off, then we peeled back the leaves to remove as much of the silk as possible. The leaves were restored (a few of the did fall off) and the ears were soaked in salty water for a couple of hours. The husks charred but did not burn on a very hot grill, providing steam to perfectly cook the corn while just enough of the niblets were exposed to get some nice caramelization here and there. No condiments needed, not even butter.

We also made Cornell-Style Grilled Chicken using all thighs; one of the benefits of this recipe is that it only requires a 2 hour marinade so it can be prepared on short notice. We grilled some asparagus after soaking it briefly in the marinade liquid, and rounded out the meal with a tub of Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw.

Easy, quick and good. Because this is a year to keep the stress level as low as possible. Hope you are equally satisfied with your holiday weekend grilling,

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Recipe: Kamala Harris Cheese Puffs (Gougéres)

Kamala Harris Cheese Puff

Kamala Harris Cheese Puffs (Gougéres)

Vice President Kamala Harris served Cheese Puffs at her first official dinner at the Naval Observatory. While she hasn’t said how she made them, recipe forensics suggest she might have followed the Tartine Bakery recipe since a/Tartine is in the Bay Area, where she lives; b/the recipe is readily available in the Tartine Cookbook;  c/our finished product looks very much like hers. Whether or not this is her recipe, it’s easy to make and delicious. Makes 8 large cheese puffs (gougéres) or quite a few small ones.

Ingredients:
1 ¼ c nonfat milk (don’t use regular because it will curdle)
10 T unsalted butter
1 T Kosher salt, plus additional for topping
1 c all purpose flour
5 large eggs, plus additional for topping
¾ c good Gruyere or Comté cheese, plus additional for topping, grated
1 t freshly ground black pepper*
1 T fresh thyme, off the stem, or 1 t dried thyme

Method: preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat the milk, butter and salt in a saucepan to a full boil (keep stirring so the milk doesn’t scald the side of the pan) then add the flour all at once and stir briskly till all lumps are incorporated. Remove from heat and cool to 145 degrees (use a meat thermometer to read or just wait a few minutes). Beat in the eggs, one at a time, waiting till each is fully incorporated before adding the next. Mix thyme, black pepper and ¾ c grated cheese into the dough.

Stabenow Cheese Puffs

Sen. Debbie Stabenow took this picture of the VP’s cheese puffs.

Transfer using a large spoon to a half-sheet pan covered with a silpat or parchment paper; make 8 mounds of equal size and shape them into nice hemispheres with your spoon. (You can also pipe the dough onto the pan using a pastry bag and make as many as you like.) Beat the egg (you can also use an egg white, and reserve the yolk for another use) with a pinch of salt and brush onto the tops of the mounds, then sprinkle a little grated cheese on each. Bake 35-45 minutes until puffed up and cooked to a golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature; if you’re not serving right away, prick the top of each gougére with a toothpick so it doesn’t deflate as quickly.

*The original Tartine gougére has a definite peppery bite, but the Vice President might have toned it down out of consideration for conservative tastes.

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Recipe: Carrot Slaw with Raisins and Pineapple

Carrot Raisin Salad

Carrot Slaw with Raisins and Pineapples. (AKA Carrot Raisin Salad)

Carrot Slaw with Raisins and Pineapple shows up frequently in the media as a Juneteenth favorite, and it definitely was popular in the south when I was growing up. It shouldn’t be too sweet; the natural sugar in the raisins and pineapple should be cut with a bit of cider vinegar or lemon juice. Makes 6 servings; the slaw is dense so the servings should be small.

Ingredients:
3 c shredded carrots f(rom a pound or a bit more before peeling and removing the roots)
½ c pineapple meat (fresh or canned) cut into ½ inch dice or crushed
½ c raisins (black or golden)
Liquid to reconstitute the raisins
2 T mayonnaise
½ t Kosher salt
1 t cider vinegar or lemon juice, or more to taste

Method: reconstitute the raisins with pineapple juice, water mixed with a bit of lemon juice, or a combination. Soak them for half an hour or heat, covered, for a minute in microwave and cool. Combine carrots, raisins, pineapple and mayonnaise and just a bit of salt. Taste; it should be a bit bland. Add the cider vinegar or lemon juice and taste again and add a bit more till it has just a note of sour. Cool 1 hour or more before serving.

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Recipe: Bok Choy with Mushrooms

Bok Choy with Mushrooms

Bok Choy with Mushrooms.

Bok Choy with Mushrooms is wonderful comfort food: bite into the tender mushroom and the delicious braising liquid pours forth. We assumed it was Cantonese because of the emphasis on fresh vegetable flavor, but Woks of Life says it’s actually a Shanghainese banquet dish. But don’t wait for a banquet because this is too good and also easy to prepare. Serves 4-6 with an assortment of other dishes.

Ingredients:
Half a dozen small bok choy, total 1 to 1 ½ lb
A generous handful dried shiitake or Chinese mushrooms
½ c or more sliced fresh mushrooms (or use all dried if you prefer)
2 ½ T neutral oil
1 t salt
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 T ginger, grated
¼ c Shaoxing cooking wine
2 T soy sauce (light or “regular”)
¼ t dark soy sauce (if you have it)
1 T oyster sauce
1 ½ t sugar
½ t sesame oil
¼ t white pepper
½ t MSG (optional)

Method: soak the mushrooms in 2 c water which you have brought to the boil for 20 minutes or until softened and cooled to handling temperature. Squeeze the liquid out of the mushrooms back into the soaking water. Slice the mushrooms into ½ inch pieces, discarding the stems.

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and add 1 T oil and 1 t salt. Clean and trim the bok choy but do not cut them apart. Plunge into the boiling water and blanch for a minute after they return to the boil, until wilted but still crisp. Transfer to a colander or sieve and pour over cold water to stop the cooking process.

Prepare the sauce: strain the soaking liquid and transfer 1 c to a bowl with wet seasonings, sugar, pepper and optional MSG. In a separate small bowl, mix cornstarch with 1 T soaking liquid and mix until smooth; stir into sauce mixture.

Heat 1 ½ T oil in a wok and sauté garlic, ginger and mushrooms until just tender, maybe 5 minutes. Mix in sauce and stir briefly until thickened; taste for seasoning and add a bit more soaking liquid if you like. Add bok choy and heat briefly, then serve.

Serving note: Woks of Life has a beautiful serving suggestion photo of the bok choy arranged in a circle with the mushrooms piled in the center. We didn’t go that far but do think it’s a good idea to serve the vegetables whole if the leaves are tender enough to be pulled apart with chopsticks. You can also cut them into bite size pieces if you like.

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Recipe: Syrian Tabbouleh

Syrian Tabbouleh

Syrian Tabbouleh.

Syrian Tabbouleh comes from a guest post on the David Lebowitz (yes, he of kouign amann fame) blog by cookbook author Anissa Helou. What makes it Syrian? First, it uses far less bulgur than western recipes (including this one). Also, cinnamon. This spice (plus a dash of the middle eastern 7-spice mixture, if have it), adds a bit of mystery and complexity that really rounds out the dish. Serves 8 as part of a mezze assortment.

Ingredients:
¼ c bulgur
2 bunches flat leaf parsley, stems mostly removed and coarsely chopped
¼ c mint leaves, chiffonade
2 green onions, sliced into rings including most of the green
3 roma tomatoes, seeds and pith removed and coarsely chopped
¼ c olive oil
¼ c lemon juice
¾ t kosher salt
½ t cinnamon
½ t seven spice powder or allspice
½ t ground black pepper

Method: pour boiling water to cover over the bulgur in a heatproof bowl and steep 15 minutes or so, until the grains are softened but still have some crunch. Drain through a sieve. Combine the drained bulgur and all other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Rest at least 1 hour to allow flavors to combine; taste and adjust spices as desired (you might want a bit more salt). Serve cold or at room temperature. Note: tabbouleh should be eaten the day it’s made or up to 2 days later at most; it becomes bitter if it sits too long.

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Recipe: Ottolenghi Carrot Salad

Ottolenghi Carrot Salad

Ottolenghi Carrot Salad.

Ottolenghi Carrot Salad is derived from a recipe in Jerusalem: a Cookbook and it has a lovely balance of acid/heat/sweet. Ottolenghi says to toss it with chopped arugula but we like it better on its own. Serves 8 as part of a mezze assortment with other salads and dips.

Ingredients
1 ½ lbs carrots, maybe 6 large or 10 medium
3 T neutral oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped to yield 2 c
2 T harissa* or ¼ to ½ t cayenne
½ t ground cumin
½ t caraway seeds, ground in a spice mill/coffee grinder or mortar and pestle
½ t sugar
3 T cider vinegar
½ t salt
1 ½ c arugula leaves, coarsely chopped

Method: peel carrots and trim the ends and cut in half crosswise. Put the larger halves into water and bring to the boil, then add smaller halves (so they cook evenly) and simmer till barely tender, maybe 10 minutes after water comes to the boil. Drain, cool and cut into ¼ inch rings.

Sauté chopped onions in 1 ½ T oil, stirring constantly, till they become crispy but not burnt, maybe 10 minutes. Mix in all other ingredients except arugula, including the reserved 1 ½ T oil. Toss in the pan off the heat to toast the spices then cool slightly. Mix in carrots and allow at least 30 minutes for flavors to blend. Mix in (optional) arugula leaves and serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

*There are many prepared harissas available and flavors vary from one to the next, so taste before adding. Our favorite is a local product from a restaurant called Tara’s Kitchen. It’s slightly spicy with a flavor profile similar to the carrot dish, including cumin, caraway and sugar.

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