Recipe: Breakfast Sausage Patties with Ginger and Sage

Posted on November 10, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Breakfast Sausage with Ginger and Sage

Breakfast Sausage with Ginger and Sage, served with pancakes and a nice runny egg.

Breakfast Sausage Patties with Ginger and Sage is a modification of the recipe in Ruhlman and Polcyn’s Charcuterie. No need to deal with sausage casings and stuffing when you have access to fresh pork with a high fat content (like Boston butt) and a mini-chop to grind it. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 lb ground pork, from butt or other with high fat content
2 t Kosher salt
1 T grated fresh ginger
1 t rubbed dried sage, or 1 T fresh sage if you have it, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
½ t ground pepper
2 T ice water

Method: mix all ingredients by hand and form into 8 or so patties. Fry over medium heat until crispy and serve with eggs, pancakes or what have you.

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Recipe: Doenjang Jjigae (Korean Fermented Soybean Stew)

Posted on November 8, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Doenja

Doenjang Jjigae (Korean Fermented Soybean Stew)

Doenjang jjigae is a savory, filling stew you can make in almost no time once you assemble the ingredients. Doenjang, or fermented soybean paste, is often compared to miso (which drives Korean crazy) but arguably this recipe is superior to miso soup because it has more ingredients and extra complexity so it eats like a main dish instead of an appetizer. Makes 4-6 servings.

Ingredients:
½ c doenjang*
2 t gochugaru (Korean chili powder; do not substitute regular chili powder)
1 t ginger, grated
4 cloves garlic, chopped fine
1 c zucchini, cut into half-moon slices
1 c potato, peeled and cut into ¾ inch cubes
1 c carrot, peeled and cut on the bias into ½ inch pieces
½ c diced onion
2 green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths including some of the green part
1 Anaheim or jalapeño chili, sliced into ¼ inch rings
½ lb spare rib or other tender beef, cut into small cubes
6 live littlneck clams or 6 shrimp, optional**
1 lb soft tofu, cut into ¾ inch cubes
4 c beef stock
2 c dashi***
Cooked white rice, for serving

Method: combine all ingredients except optional seafood, and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until potato is tender, about 20 minutes. Add seafood if using and simmer 5 more minutes until the clams open up or the shrimp turn pink. Serve with a bowl of rice; you can either pour the stew over the rice or add rice to the stew to your preference.

*You can find the brown tubs of doenjang next to the gochujang in almost any Asian grocery; you can also order a tub from Amazon for under $10 and it will last a long time in your refrigerator.
**Koreans like to find a bit of seafood hiding in their jjigae. If using clams, scrub and soak in water for 30 minutes, If using shrimp, leave the shells on or not, your preference.

Dashi Packet

We used this instant dashi product; 1 packet makes 3 cups of dash but you could use 2 cups water for a more concentrated flavor.

***There are many doenjang recipes out there and most include some kind of fishy marine element—dried anchovies, kombu etc. We used a dried dashi packet that includes both fish and kelp.

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What Saratoga Restaurant Week looks like in 2022

Posted on November 3, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Pork Ragu Taverna Novo

Pork Ragu at Taverna Novo, $25 with app and dessert on the 2022 Saratoga Restaurant Week menu at Taverna Novo. Photo credit: Hinna L. on Yelp.

Being obsessively cheap, we perk up when our local restaurant week rolls round, hoping for some real bargains and creative menu design that motivates us to try someplace new. For 2022 Saratoga Restaurant Week runs from November 7-13; lunches are $15 (they were $5 and $10 last time we wrote about this in 2019) and dinners are $25 and $35.

I’m definitely going to lunch at the Kaffee Haus, which will give me a Reubenator sandwich and a cup of gulash with a soda for $15 when these items add up to well over $20 on the regular menu. Will probably skip the Hideaway, which for $15 gives me a Reuben which is $14 on the regular menu and throws in a salad or dessert. Will also skip a couple of places that agreed to participate in the promotion but didn’t bother to put up a menu; what’s up with that?

For my $25 dinner I’m surely headed to Taverna Novo, which will serve me a small Caesar salad or pumpkin ravioli, an entrée of pork ragu, and a death by chocolate brownie for less than the entrée sells for on its own. And will avoid Panza’s, which marks up 3 of its regular entrees for a $35 menu and makes up for it with a soup or salad to start and bread pudding for dessert.

In fact, a rule of thumb for restaurant weeks might be that the entire promotional menu should cost less than its entree when purchased on the regular menu; e.g. the Taverna Novo promo is giving us a $28 entrée for $25 with extras. It also helps if the restaurant offers a special that is not on the regular menu (a Cuban sandwich at Hideaway, pumpkin ravioli at Taverna Novo) which will draw back regular customers and also make price comparisons against the regular menu more difficult.

Restaurants have had a hard time with the pandemic and subsequent staffing shortages, though the staffing situation seems to be more manageable at local places now that the tourist season is over. But the restaurant business depends on attracting new customers and turning them into repeat customers, and a restaurant week is a golden opportunity to do that. It’s not a time to pinch pennies.

I’m not alone in this philosophy; our local food curmudgeon Steve Barnes put up a long Facebook rant comparing Panza’s offering to another place down the road which serves the same menu every day at a little more than half the price. (We originally linked to the post but Facebook has blocked access for too many redirects, sorry.)

 

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Vote Early! Then make some Election Cake.

Posted on November 1, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Election Cake

We baked our Election Cake in a bundt pan. Can be sprinkled with powdered sugar if you like.

We voted yesterday, October 31, at a lively site filled with election workers in costumes and lots of voters (our machine was already over 100 a little before noon). If your state provides it, might be a good idea to do the same and avoid potential craziness on official Election Day, November 8.

Then… go home and make yourself some Election Cake!

This savory concoction was enjoyed in post-revolutionary America; election day was a joyous festival that often entailed traveling long distances and partying afterward. The lucky voter would get a slice of cake as a reward, likely accompanied by a cup of rum.

You can do the same with yourself and your friends, neighbors and family members. Start the cake today and enjoy it tomorrow, then cover and keep in the refrigerator and it will be just as good right up through November 8.

Election Cake with Pumpkin Pie Glaze

Election Cake with Pumpkin Pie Glaze

This recipe is adapted from the home bakers version of the recipe from OWL Bakery. Makes 1 bundt mold or 8″ or 10″ round.

Today:
1 c warm milk
1/2 t instant yeast
2 1/4 c all purpose flour
1/2 c dried or 1 c fresh fruits (optional)

Method: dissolve the yeast in the warm milk and stir in flour. If you are using dried fruits, chop fine and soak overnight in liquor or water. The preferment is ready in 8-12 hours when it becomes bubbly.

Tomorrow:
1/2 c unsalted butter, softened
1/3 cup sugar
1 egg
2 T whole-milk yoghurt
2 T honey or sorghum syrup
Last night’s preferment
1 1/4 c all purpose flour
1 t ground cinnamon
1/4 t ground coriander
1/4 t ground cardamon
Pinch ground black pepper
1 t salt
Last night’s rehydrated or fresh fruit (optional)

Method: using paddle attachment in stand mixer, cream butter then add sugar, mixing until very light and fluffy. Mix in the egg on medium speed, then the the sorghum/honey and yogurt.Exchange the paddle for a dough hook. Add the preferment and mix until just incorporated. Combine all of the dry ingredients before adding them to liquid ingredients and mix until just incorporated, being careful not to over-mix. Gently fold in the rehydrated fruit. Pour into greased and floured bundt pan or cake round.

Proof 2-4 hours, covered, until cake has risen by about 1/3 of its volume. Bake in preheated 375 degree oven for 10 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350 degrees and continue baking 25-30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the cake comes out clean. Cool completely before cutting and eating.

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Recipe: Gonzalez Food Market Macaroni Salad

Posted on October 30, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Gonzalez Food Market Macaroni Salad

Gonzalez Food Market Macaroni Salad.

Gonzalez Food Market Macaroni Salad comes to us from Robb Walsh, who explores the less-traveled backroads of the Texas barbecue trail for his Legends of Texas Barbecue Cookbook. The raisins add a note of sweetness that makes us think Miracle Whip is the best choice for the dressing, though you are welcome to use mayo. Makes about 16 servings.

Ingredients:
8 oz dried elbow macaroni, about 1 2/3 cup
½ c celery, chopped
½ c onion, chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled and grated
¼ c raisins
1 c Miracle Whip or mayonnaise
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: cook macaroni in a generous amount of salted water until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain in a colander and pour cold water over to stop cooking. Stir in other ingredients and refrigerate at least 4 hour and preferably overnight. Taste before serving and add salt and pepper as needed,.

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Recipe: Chocolate Saratogas

Posted on October 25, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Chocolate Saratogss

Chocolate Saratogas.

Chocolate Saratogas are the contribution of Mrs. Frank H. Miller, daughter of former Senator from Missouri Edward V. Long, to the Congressional Club Cookbook (1993 Edition). There is a tradition of crackers with chocolate in the South, but I have no idea why these are called “Saratoga” chocolates. Being sited in Saratoga Springs, NY, birthplace of the potato chip, of course I had to try them. They are like Heath bars, with a pleasant chew you could probably eliminate by tempering the sugar to a higher temperature. Makes 25 or more Chocolate Saratogas.

Ingredients:
Saltine crackers
1 c unsalted butter
1 c dark brown sugar
1 12-oz. pkg. semisweet chocolate morsels

Method: preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a 10×13 inch baking pan with parchment paper, including sides. Cover the bottom of the pan with individual saltine crackers, side by side but not overlapping. Melt butter in saucepan and add sugar. Bring to a low boil, stir until sugar is melting, then continue to cook 3 more minutes until the mixture is nicely caramelized. Pour over the crackers, tilting the pan to evenly distribute the caramel. Bake in 400 degree oven for 5 minutes then sprinkle the chocolate chips over the top. When chocolate is softened use a spatula to evenly spread it on the top.

Congressional Club Cookbook

The Congressional Club Cookbook, a gift from my sister.

Cool to room temperature then cut into squares. I initially tried cutting along the border of the crackers but found it didn’t matter; Mrs. Miller says this recipe should make 50 servings which mean you’ll be cutting each saltine in half. Chill in the baking pan until serving; I found the bottom is slightly tacky so the pieces will stick together but can be separated for erving,

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Eating at the Skidmore dining hall

Posted on October 21, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Skidmore Dining Hall Meal

My meal at the Skidmore dining hall.

For the past few weeks I’ve been eating lunch at the Murray-Aikins Dining Hall at Skidmore College. It’s organized in the same way as the dining halls at UMass Amherst, which I loved when my son was in college, though on a more modest scale. Let’s take a look.

Dish Drop Off

Dish drop-off station near the entrance.

In both cases, there’s a big dirty dish drop off area right at the entrance so you have to pass through it (almost—in both cases it’s slightly offset behind a wall) to get to the food stations. Considering that we are dealing with 18-21 year olds, like the one I still have at home, this makes sense. Make it easier to recycle than not and they just might do it.

Todays Menu

Today’s menu.

Once inside, the dining hall is divided into stations and you can visit as many stations and eat as much as you want. For someone who’s tried to game the Las Vegas buffets at the Bellagio, this is important. How does a dining hall like this plan to defeat me? For one thing, no trays, so I’m limited to what I can carry. But I can always go back for more.

Corner Deli

Corner Deli.

You can review a daily menu on a board as you enter and make preliminary plans. The most popular station seems to be The Corner Deli where you can get a sandwich made to order (like mom would do if you were at home?) and I discovered the pro trick of ordering your sandwich, then going to other stations like the salad bar to round out your meal while it is being prepped. I also liked the Back to Basics station, which provided me with a perfectly roasted and seasoned chicken thigh one day.

Skidmore Dining Accolades

The food has won a number of awards.

So, how is this food? Pretty good but not as good as UMass, and I know why. The latter offers up a number of creative recipes which can be prepared on an institutional scale (like the Subbaswamy family squash curry I experienced in 2015, recipe unfortunately unavailable), while Skidmore is ad hoc. Students work most of the stations and their preps are formulaic, not creative.

The good news is that the ingredients are of good quality and the students like the experience. The dining hall has been packed, every time I’ve been there.

Skidmore Dining Hall

Exterior of the Skidmore dining hall.

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Recipe: Basic Pie Crust

Posted on October 18, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Whole Chess Pie

Chess Pie made with basic pie crust recipe.

Basic pie crust is a simple and straightforward recipe found in a cookbook by Gerald Ramsey, chef in the tea room at Southern Methodist University when my parents worked there many decades ago. It’s a good starting point if you are intimidated by pie. Makes 1 crust for 9″ pie.

Ingredients:
2 c all purpose flour
1 t Kosher salt
¾ c butter or lard*, frozen and cut into ½ inch cubes
1/3 c ice water

Method: If you are going to bake the crust before filling, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Sift** flour and salt together. Cut shortening into it until the mixture feels like coarse cornmeal. Sprinkle water over dough while you knead with your hand; add only enough water to make a cohesive mass***. Roll into a circle on lightly floured board to a diameter about 3 inches wider than your pie pan, or a little wider if you are going to add a top crust.

If you are going to bake your crust before filling (recommended for fruit pies, not for Mom’s Chess Pie) dump a cup of dried beans into the pan atop the raw crust and bake in 400 degree oven for 12-15 minutes until light brown. Remove the beans (which can be cooked on their own or reused), then add filling and bake according to your recipe.

*Ramsey’s original recipe used Crisco®, of course, You cannot go wrong with butter, but also consider lard or coconut oil. The fat needs to be solid to sift and integrate, so liquid shortening won’t work.
**Does anyone sift flour anymore? Or has improved product uniformity made sifting obsolete?
***Okay, I lied about “simple” because a good result is all in the technique. There are no leavenings or eggs in a pie crust. Success is in how you intermix flour and butter into a form that will bake into a crisp, rich crust. A few tips:
–Everything has to be COLD because melted shortening spells disaster. Keep that in mind as you study the steps above.
–Cutting the shortening means you are coating the little pieces of solid fat with flour then working them till the fat is fully incorporated in the flour, like coarse cornmeal.
–If you start rolling out your first pie crust and see it’s full of big spots of fat that was not fully incorporated, good news! You can cut your pie crust into strips and bake them as cookies while you start over with colder ingredients and a finer mix.
–To get the pie crust into the pie pan, invert the pan over the rolled out dough and flip, supporting the dough with your hand. Gently press the crust into the pan to coat the bottom evenly (no need to pre-oil the pan because the dough already has plenty of fat). Cut edges just beyond the edge of pie pan then make a decorative finish with a fork or your fingers. Bake the extra dough as a separate treat, use it to make a top crust on a fruit pie, or just press into the bottom of the pie pan for a thicker crust.

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Recipe: Mom’s Chess Pie*

Posted on October 13, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Mom's Ches Pie

Mom’s Chess Pie with whipped cream, an excellent addition. Photo by Becca Oppenneer.

Mom’s chess pie is based on a card I found in my mother’s recipe box. It’s very close to the product served at the Highland Park Cafeteria… eggy, tangy and with more body than a custard pie thanks to the cornmeal. According to Wikipedia “chess” may be a shortened form of “cheeseless”. They say the pie might contain “acid such as vinegar, buttermilk, or lemon juice” but in Dallas we always understood it was made with vinegar, because where would you get a lemon in 19th century rural east Texas? Makes one delicious 9 inch pie.

Ingredients:
1 ½ c sugar
4 ½ tsp cornmeal
½ c butter, melted
3 whole eggs
1 t white vinegar
1 t vanilla
¼ c milk
Unbaked pie shell

Method: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix sugar with cornmeal. Add melted butter and mix thoroughly. In a separate bowl, beat eggs then add liquids, finishing with vinegar. It is best to add vinegar slowly at the last. Transfer bowl with sugar and cornmeal and butter and mix well. Pour into unbaked shell and bake for 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool to room temperature and serve.

*This recipe has been updated after a reader reported a soggy filling. We now recommend beating the eggs separately and cooking for a longer time.

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Clynk makes container recycling easy

Posted on October 11, 2022 by Burnt My Fingers
Clynk Bag Collection

Clynk bags after collection for a charity in Maine.

In New York we have a 5 cent deposit on recyclable containers for beer, soda, fortified seltzer and water (but not tea, energy drinks, cider or wine, go figure). I’m sure that most folks simply toss the empties in the trash (so it goes into landfill) or regular recycling (where it may or may not be separated from other items, either at the destination or by neighborhood scavengers). But it’s not that hard to get your money back, thanks to a clever regional service called Clynk.

Clynk is headquartered in Maine, which is also home to the nation’s most comprehensive bottle bill (everything has a deposit, even those pesky ice tea containers). Maine is also the headquarters of Hannaford supermarkets, a regional chain with locations in my town of Saratoga Springs. You sign up online and receive a set of bar code stickers in the mail along with a welcome coupon for an initial supply of 10 bags, which you redeem at your local Hannaford.

Fill the bag with deposit-bearing containers (it’s up to you to be sure no non-deposit cans make it in there), affix a bar code sticker, scan the sticker at a special door at Hannaford then toss the bag through the door. A couple days later a credit will show up when you access your account online. I’ve found that a full bag holds about 100 mixed cans, worth $5. In the short time I’ve been doing this I’ve accumulated over $20 which I can transfer to my bank or give to a charity of my choice. Once my initial supply of bags and stickers is gone I can order more stickers for free and buy more bags at Hannaford for about 25 cents each.

Clynk is far easier than the machines in many supermarkets and beer stores that suck in cans one at a time, and spit out ones the machine doesn’t like (probably because the store doesn’t sell products from that distributor). This seems to be the method preferred by folks who gather cans on the street, but it seems to me time consuming and demeaning when with a little advance planning you could just toss your Clynk bag in the adjacent door.

My preferred beer store has a somewhat easier recycling procedure which I’ve used in the past. You bring in your containers and sort them in bins by plastic, glass and aluminum, then give the cashier a bottle count and redeem your deposit. The store is near the Saratoga Race Course, and they provide bags which workers on the backstretch fill with empties scavenged at the racetrack and bring in for a payment determined by the capacity of the bag. (They look to be about the size of the Clynk bags, so holding 50 containers each.) This is a reasonably efficient system, except that the store has decided they don’t like it. Even though they get 3.5 cents for each container they turn in, the work of sorting the increased volume of cans in tougher times has recently overwhelmed their regular beer business.

Which is why I’m glad I discovered Clynk. This page provides an overview of the program, including states where Clynk is available. If you live in an area with a Hannaford, this page will show you how to get started. If you are a retailer interested in partnering (there are also “white label” programs in addition to branded Clynk at Hannaford), check out this page.

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