Make mine marrow (BONE marrow, that is)

Bone Marrow Plating

Marrow bones with a bit of Fergus Henderson’s parsley salad. If you can, ask your butcher to saw the bones on the horizontal instead of across. The marrow is easier to get at and it will make a nicer presentation.

My market had a special on marrow bones so I had to bring home a batch. They couldn’t be simpler to prepare and enjoy. Stand them up in a pan so the insides don’t leach out, then cook in a 450 degree oven for 25 minutes. Serve with some good toasted bread and Fergus Henderson’s parsley salad to cut the unctuousness of the marrow:

Marrow Bones Raw

Marrow bones on their way into the oven

½ c Italian parsley, finely chopped
½ shallot, in thin slices
1 T capers
1 T olive oil
2 t lemon juice
Kosher salt to taste

Marrow bones cooked

25 minutes later, they’re done.

Allow 1 or more 4-6 inch marrow bone per person as an appetizer. Use a small knife (or a grapefruit spoon) to dig out the marrow, and don’t forget the stuff in the bottom of the roasting pan. When you’re done, you can use the roasted bones to make trendy bone broth, aka beef stock.

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Craft New York Brewers Festival is the real deal

Scene from a previous Craft Brew New York event in Albany, NY

Scene from a previous Craft Brew New York event in Albany, NY

I love beer, especially hoppy double IPAs brewed in small batches by lovable brewers from small artisanal breweries. However, I’m not in love with all the beer festivals that are sprouting up like hop bines in April. Many are road shows put on by commercial interests, and feature beers you can buy at any well-stocked beer emporium.

The 3rd Annual Craft New York Brewers Festival promises to be a different glass of suds. Coming up  Saturday, March 5 at the Desmond Hotel in Albany, it is sponsored by the New York State Brewers Association. This trade group has been an active promoter of pro-brewer legislation, and participating breweries are donating their kegs so the maximum amount of revenue can go to the association. You can get your tickets here.

The main event (VIP early entrance is already sold out) runs from 5 to 8 and features such breweries as Rushing Duck (keeping fingers crossed the War Elephant will be on offer), the Brewery at CIA, Empire Brewing, Good Nature Farm Brewing & Tap, Paradox, Rare Form as well as many more familiar names—45 breweries in total. The beers are poured by real brewery employees (or in some cases reps) so you can hobnob with them and get the stories behind the brews.

There is also a NYS Hops and Malts section where you can meet with the producers of these essential ingredients and, beer in hand, learn about the programs that have helped grow the New York State brewing industry from 95 breweries to 238 today. And there will be food sampling included with the price of admission from The Desmond Hotel, Browns Brewing taproom, Adirondack Pub, Albany Pump Station, Davidson Brothers, Druthers, The Ruck, The American Bounty at CIA, Knot of this World Pretzels, Catskill Food Company, Crossroads Brewing, Chef’s Consortium, The Mohawk Taproom, Honest Weight, The Ruck, The Hollow Bar + Kitchen, 20 North Broadway, Elegant Touch Catering & Events, and more to come.

Online admission price is $40 for the General Session, $55 for the VIP early entrance. Tickets, if still available, will be $15 more at the door so save money and buy yours here. Tickets include admission, a 5-ounce souvenir tasting glass and the freedom to enjoy unlimited 3-ounce samples of the various beers present at the event. This is a 21+ event, obviously.

The Desmond is at 660 Albany Shaker Rd, Albany, NY 12211, right next to the Albany airport. (I’m pretty sure they have a shuttle, if you agree this is worth flying in for.) See you there—I’ll be the guy trying to balance a note pad, a beer glass and a plate of hors d’oeuvres. http://craftbeerfestivals.com/craftnewyork/.

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Recipe: Sour Mustard

Sour Mustard

I took the opportunity for a taste test of Gulden’s vs. the house brand at Price Chopper. Gulden’s wins for spiciness, but not by much.

I prefer deli-style spicy brown mustard to Dijon as a condiment for a charcuterie tray, but it’s missing a certain je ne sais quoi. Actually I do know; it’s the sour kick from the wine. Here’s how adjust it. Makes enough sour mustard for one shared appetizer serving.

Ingredients:
¼ c spicy brown mustard, such as Gulden’s
1 T malt (preferred) or cider vinegar, or use the liquid from the mustard seeds
1 T pickled mustard seeds (optional)

Method: Mix and serve. This only takes a second to make, so do it as needed instead of taking up space in the refrigerator.

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Recipe: Pickled Mustard Seeds

Pickled Mustard Seeds

Pickled Mustard Seeds

Pickled mustard seeds have a pop when you bite into them and add a welcome tang in pretty much any application where you’d use regular mustard. Try a spoonful over a griddled pork chop, or use in sour mustard to as a condiment for a charcuterie plate.

Ingredients:
¼ c whole yellow mustard seeds
1/3 c cider vinegar
¼ c sugar

Method: Bring sugar and vinegar to the boil and add mustard seeds. Simmer for 10 minutes until mustard seeds soften a bit then turn off heat and allow seeds to cool in the pot. Serve as a condiment, with or without the pan juice. Will keep indefinitely in a tightly sealed, refrigerated jar.

Sad Mustard Seeds

An Indian grocery store is a good source of cheap mustard seeds for your experimentations

Note: I’ve turned up some wildly conflicting recipes from respected chefs for this trendy topping. ChefSteps, the Seattle science nerds, advise you to use 10 changes of water to get rid of the bitterness (the seeds are still bitter). David Chang wants you to cook the seeds for an hour till they double in size (didn’t happen). My recipe is closest to that of Tom Colicchio, whom most people credit with the concept, but I use less liquid and less sugar.

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“Brewers Wanted” in New York craft beer industry

SCCC brewery students

SCCC brewery students Tracy Brundege, Noelle Garcia and Tom St. Martin

Craft beer is thriving in New York state, and somebody has to staff all those breweries not to mention the malt houses, hop farms and other suppliers that feed them. So Schenectady County Community College is piloting a brewer training curriculum as part of its excellent culinary arts program. I got to meet some of the students at a tasting event at Shmaltz Brewery.

There are 15 students in the pilot program, chosen from over 300 who applied. Tracy Brundege and Tom St. Martin are both the 2-year culinary arts program already and working in the hospitality industry; Noelle Garcia is a nurse with a passion for beer. They took a battery of tests which included math and English but also “light industrial”: what do you do when you are driving a forklift and someone walks in front of you? What do the code letters on a fire extinguisher mean?

The course runs 10 hours a week, five hours on each of two nights after work, plus a visit to a brewery on the weekend. At the conclusion of the 13 week program, the goal is to deliver a person who is ready to go to work in a production brewery with minimal training. If this course is like others in the culinary arts program, its graduates should find ready employment based on the quality of education and the work ethic provided at SCCC.

Brewers Wanted Pale Ale

Brewers Wanted Pale Ale, brewed in limited quantities with New York-produced ingredients

I also spoke with Rich Micheals, the instructor, who is Quality Innovation Manager at Matt Brewing in Utica in his day job. I asked him how much difference there is from one brewery to the next since the steps to making beer are pretty standard. He says that’s true, but “if you ask 10 brewers how to do something, you’ll get 12 different answers.” This is magnified by the specific equipment in use at a commercial craft brewery. Last week the students studied bottling at Adirondack Brewery, and this week they’ll look in on the packaging operation at Shmaltz in Clifton Park.

The tasting event was focused on Brewers Wanted Pale Ale – Work for Beer®, a pale ale (5.5% ABV) brewed with 50% NYS 2-row malt, as well as other American malt favorites, hopped with a burst of warrior, simcoe and mosaic and dry hopped with NYS cascade. The beer will be available in limited quantities throughout New York State. A portion of its sales go to support the SCCC program.

An official public launch party will be held on Wednesday, February 17 as part of Saratoga Beer Week at the Old Bryan Inn (123 Maple Avenue) starting at 6 pm.

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Italian Slow Wine Tasting USA Tour 2016

Crowd at the Slow Wine tasting

Slow Wine Tasting in New York, February 3, 2016

The other day I attended a wine tasting event in commemoration of the release of the 2016 Slow Wine Guide. According the press release, “Slow Wine Guide critiques wine through the perspective of the Slow Food philosophy giving prominence to small-scale winemakers who are using traditional techniques, working with respect for the environment and terroir, and safeguarding the incredible biodiversity of grape varieties that are part of Italy’s heritage. Slow Wine is the only Italian wine guide that visits all of the winemakers included in the guide, in their vineyards.”

2011 Cento su Cento from Castel Di Salvo, amazing negroamaro

2011 Cento su Cento from Castel Di Salvo, amazing negroamaro

The last part of that statement is the best, because the sponsors have uncovered some brilliant small (production as low as 40,000 bottles per year) wineries, and many of the winemakers were on hand at the Highline Ballroom in NYC  to pour their wines. I especially liked two wineries from Puglia, Cantine Amastuola and Castel di Salve. They offered rustic, almost herbal reds made from primitivo, malvasia and negroamaro (an especially earthy variety of primitivo).

I also happened upon a really nice, well balanced Chianti from Castello di Monsanto in Tuscany. Compared to something you might find in a better wine store or order by the glass at a good eatery, these were astonishingly good and yet they were not rare or expensive wines. A search on the very useful wine-searcher.com shows prices in the $10-30 range. It also shows, unfortunately, that most of these bottles are currently unavailable in the U.S.

Testun Al Barolo truffled cheese

As a bonus, Italian snacks were on offer. Testun al Barolo is a truffle-infused pecorino which can be ordered from iGourmet.com

You’ll probably be able to find some Castello di Monsanto through Wine-Searcher, and Cantine Asmastuola is distributed by wine4all.com, which has no “where to find it” links but some great wine information on its pages. Try using their contact form to ask for a local retailer. Castel di Salve is “currently seeking representation” according to the program; I hope they find some because it’s great stuff.

It may be the only way to really enjoy these esoteric wines is to visit the wineries in Italy. If you do that, or if you want to do some window shopping you’ll need the Slow Wine Guide which can be ordered here. (The 2016 guide will be released in a few weeks; the 2015 guide is currently available. Since these are slow wines, I bet there is not a lot of change from one year to the next.)  You can also download a complimentary issue of their magazine.

Here are three specific recommendations, if you can find them:
Caste di Save: Cento su Cento Negramaro 2011
Cantine Amastuola: Primitivo 2013
Castro di Monsanto: Chinti Cl. Reserva 50º Vendemmia 2012

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Stuck on sticky rice

Sticky Rice with fillings

My sticky rice is not much to look at, but the flavor is good.

Turns out it is incredibly easy to turn out perfect Asian-style sticky rice… why didn’t somebody tell me about this before? Cheap, simple and delicious—that’s what we are all about at Burnt My Fingers.

You can use it as a utensil like they do in Laos and Northern Thailand and push your brisket and beans around the plate with a sticky ball of rice instead of a slice of Mrs. Baird’s. Or, add your favorite fillings, wrap in a piece of parchment paper, and make your own version of Chinese Lo Mai Gai.

My bag of sticky rice

My bag of sticky rice

But you need the right kind of rice—you can’t take ordinary jasmine rice and make it sticky. You want khao neow, sold in Asian markets as “sweet” (it’s not) or “glutinous” (it contains no gluten). It looks the same as regular rice (actually it’s less translucent, like koji) but is very low on amylose, the starch component that preserves the identity of the individual grains.

Start by soaking the rice—overnight or longer. Drain and transfer to a steamer, where you will probably need to spread some cheesecloth or some other layer to keep it falling through. Don’t worry about those grains rolling around, though; it will become more cohesive as it cooks. Check in about 20 minutes then test a bit; when done it should be tender and sticky. The traditional method is to serve in a central bowl or basket and guests take out small portions with their fingers, then roll them into a ball which they eat or dip in sauces.

Sticky Rice Bundles

Rice wrapped in parchment paper goes into the steamer. The bundles will plump up as they cook.

You can also add fillings, as in my photo at the top of this post. For a poor relation of Lo Mai Gai, I sliced 2 dry Chinese sausages (Lap Cheong) on the bias and deboned and chopped 4 oz of smoked duck from the Chinese BBQ place. I mixed this with 2 t dark soy sauce, 1 t toasted sesame oil, 1 t oyster sauce and 1 t Xiao Xing cooking wine. The day before I had soaked 1 dry cup sticky rice which had expanded somewhat; I drained this and put a couple spoonfuls onto each of four 6 inch squares of parchment paper, added a couple spoonfuls of the meats, then a couple spoonfuls of rice. I then folded the parchment paper in on itself and secured with kitchen twine. Since the ingredients were already cooked they were done in half an hour, but Serious Eats (in the recipe where I also got the simple marinade above) recommends steaming for 90 minutes if you are using raw chicken (gai). If you do this, be sure to check and replenish the water regularly.

The result was definitely within striking distance of a Clement Street product and I look forward to trying pork belly, mushrooms and maybe some roasted garlic as fillings. I’ve since procured some dried lotus leaves which are a more authentic wrapper than parchment paper (though the paper works fine).

Note that because sticky rice does not take on as much water, it’s denser and you need less to fill you up. It’s good stuff but go easy.

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Ribbon cutting day at Chester’s Smokehouse in Albany

Chesters Mini Dog

Mini dog from Chester’s Smokehouse, Albany NY

Chester’s Smokehouse is a throwback to the days when refrigeration was spotty and every town had a smokehouse to preserve meat. It recently opened in an ungentrified district of Albany, taking over a building that allegedly housed a pretty rough bar. As a result, Albany Mayor Kathy Sheehan and other local business promoters were quite happy to give it a ribbon cutting ceremony.

Chesters ribbon cutting

The ribbon has been cut! That’s Chester in the baseball cap next to the Mayor in the red coat.

I stopped by to share the festivities and taste a broader range of product than on a previous visit. Chester’s mantra seems to be “if it’s not moving, I’ll smoke it”. He boasts some 80 smoked meat varieties, including a “chunky, meaty, slightly garlicky” kielbasa which met Martha Stewart’s exacting requirements when her favorite Polish meat shop closed down. There’s also cheese (made elsewhere, smoked in house) and a dozen varieties of excellent pierogies.

Chesters counter

Lunchmeat counter

Chesters smoker

Kielbasa in brine, waiting to go into the smoker

I was especially interested to try the do-it-yourself mini dogs which can be doctored with Chester’s bacon sauerkraut and sautéed onions as well as the usual toppings. I liked the smoked blue and Cotswold cheeses and, of course, the head cheese. Chester uses a mild, crowd pleasing brine but the prices are so good (most items under $7 a pound) I have no right to complain. Combine several of these meats piled high on a sandwich and you’re in business.

My order at Chesters

I planned to just sample, but ended up picking up a few things…

Chester’s Smokehouse is at 15 Watervliet in Albany (yes, that’s just a couple of blocks from the excellent Honest Weight Coop). Open 7 days but with shortened hours on the weekend. Check the website for details.

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Recipe: Beef Stroganoff

Beef Stroganoff

Beef Stroganoff, over potatoes

Beef stroganoff was a staple of my supper club back in college. It was basically beef stew with some sour cream mixed in at the point of serving to add richness and a bit of tang. I’m grown up now, plus have a cabinet full of seasonings, so today’s recipe is a little more complex. But I’ve stopped short of fussing over the sour cream separating and curdling as many recipes do nowadays. Makes 4 main dish servings.

Ingredients:
1 lb or so sirloin or other lean beef (round steak is fine)
½ lb button mushrooms
1 medium onion, sliced thin
4 T butter
½ t dried thyme
1 c red or white wine
1 T Worcestershire sauce
1 T fish sauce
½ t Kosher salt, or to taste
¼ t ground black pepper
2 T cornstarch
½ c sour cream

Method: Freeze the meat (or defrost frozen steaks) to the point that you can just cut it with a sharp knife. Slice as thin as you can. Clean the mushrooms, cut into thick slices and sauté in 2 T butter until well browned. Add the sliced onion to the pan (which will be dry at this point) and sweat until tender. Reserve the onions and mushrooms and add remaining butter, thyme and pepper to the pan. Saute the meat until all pieces are browned, no more than 5 minutes. Reserve. Add wine to deglaze the pan and cook down somewhat; remove ½ c and mix with 2 T cornstarch into a slurry without lumps. Return to the pan along with Worcestershire and fish sauces and simmer until sauce thickens. Return the mushrooms, onions and beef to the sauté pan and toss gently until hot. Taste for salt and add as needed; you probably won’t need much.

Add sour cream and toss a few times until the cream is warm but not heated to the point where it will curdle. Serve over egg noodles, rice or chopped boiled potatoes. If you like, serve with more sour cream on the side to be added to the preference of your guests.

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Food for Thought: Chef Jacques La Merde unmasked!

A typical Chef Merde creation

Dunkin Munchkins, Snickers haché, birthday Oreo soil on Shamrock Shake creme

We have previously heaped praise on Chef Jacques La Merde, a wise guy who makes beautiful compositions out of junk food. Now it turns out the culprit/heroine is Toronto chef Christine Flynn. This interview on Eater explains how and why she did it and, sadly, suggests that now that the cat is out of the bag she may move on to something else. Check it out, and also see the Instagram link in my original post so you can enjoy Chef Flynn’s creations before she decides to take down the account.

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