Food for Thought: Penzey’s Spice Company

Embrace Hope

Penzey’s Embrace Hope gift box

I have been a customer and a fan of Penzey’s for a very long time. I first ran across them when I made a foray into selling mail order foods and wanted to suss out the competition, way back in the 1980s. Many a new married couple has received a starter box of Penzey’s spices from me such as this one, charmingly packaged with loose (and entirely usable) bay leaves, cinnamon sticks and nutmegs. More recently Penzey’s has opened retail stores, and it was a favorite activity of my mother to have me drive her to the shop in Inwood Village on the Miracle Mile.

But, what does this have to do with our Food for Thought category, which is about books and blogs? Well, this past weekend Penzey’s gave away a gift box called Embrace Hope that contained an Embrace Hope lapel pin, a Kind Heart refrigerator magnet, a vial of Mexican vanilla, a jar of pico seasoning to make fresh salsa, and this printed message:

America is an immigrant nation. It is the strength of immigration that has propelled us from just another colony to leadership among the free world. One of the greatest gifts America receives from each new wave of immigrants is an ever refreshing sense of hope, that from our Spice travels we can tell you is so rare in most everywhere else around the globe. To see America through the eyes of immigrants is to see an almost magical place where, no matter where or who you were born, your hard work can amount to something, ane even better—a place where your children can receive an honest opportunity to earn a better future.

Each new wave of immigrants brings with it their own unique culture. We are so lucky to live in a time where the traditions of the wave we get to experience are so rich, and so very tasty, too. Please take a moment to celebrate the kindness they bring, appreciate how much they’ve given up to be here, and embrace the hope at the heart of their journey. They are our future. Now is the time to thank them.

On Facebook, Bill Penzey had a much longer and more pointed statement which is available here. I hope you will give it a read. I am not going to turn this blog into a political forum—we have enough of those—but I do want to point out that whether you are drawn here by Pennsylvania Dutch (not Amish!) tripe, hill country smoked brisket, Korean chicken wings or Utica Greens, you are eating immigrant cooking.

The Embrace Hope gift box is still available online, at Penzey’s regular price of $31.95. It is a small enough contribution to support these excellent folks and get some quality goods for your kitchen.

If you prefer to shop in person and are in the Capital District of upstate NY, Penzey’s can be found in Albany’s Stuyvestant Plaza. The Inwood Village store is gone but there’s a Dallas location in the Galleria at 12835 Preston Road. See the store locator page for other areas. 

Posted in Food for Thought | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Food for Thought: Beyond Kimchee

Gen-X and Gen-Y Koreans I’ve met (under 45 or so) often have a sly and delightful sense of humor when writing or communicating in English. I discovered this when my kids were going to an immersion school in San Francisco where half the families were first generation Korean immigrants. Perhaps they’re so inundated with American cultural icons that they learn slang and memes almost before they’ve got a good grasp of communicating in English.

The Beyond Kimchee blog is a great place to check out this phenomenon… and more important, an excellent source of authentic but not overly difficult Korean recipes. Easy Korean Pork is a good one to try first, both for the flavor and the language. Holly is “a native Korean mother and a wife whose favorite place in the house is the KITCHEN”. She’s been doing this for awhile and has built up quite a repertoire of recipes. In particular, there are some fresh (in the sense that I haven’t encountered them elsewhere) ideas for panchan (she calls it “pancham”), the tray of appetizers brought to the table at most Korean restaurants. Use this index page to get started with your panchan search.

A funny woman who has a way with words and is a brilliant intuitive cook… it’s sort of like Chrissy Teigen’s retired and much missed So Delushious! blog, but G-rated. Check out Beyond Kimchee.

Posted in Food for Thought | Tagged | Leave a comment

Baked Beans for your 4th of July BBQ

BakedBeans

Baked Beans (they should look like this when done, with all liquid absorbed/evaporated)

We’re pleased to have been featured in The Daily Meal’s roundup of 15 Best Baked Beans Recipes. With all the recipes on this site, “best” is quite a compliment. Any of the preps would be worth your time, actually, but we stand by ours because it’s, like we say, easy.

We’re probably going to serve these for our 4th of July barbecue, along with Better than KFC Cole Slaw and some Saratoga Chips. My town now has an excellent AYCE sushi place, Wasabi, that gives you a free meal on your birthday* so I’ll probably eat that for lunch and won’t be especially hungry come dinner time. Thus the main course will be good old hamburgers rather than a more ambitious Snow’s-style brisket.

There will also be a parade, and fireworks, and blistering heat. Have a good 4th of July BBQ and happy birthday to you (and me), America.

* There’s another regional spot that will give you one chicken wing for reach year of your age on your birthday but they’re closed on July 4, d’oh!

Posted in Eating | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Keeping it cool at Eat Drink Saratoga 1.0

Mezze Platter

My $10 mezze plater from Hamlet & Ghost was a high point of the inaugural Eat Drink Saratoga.

The weather did not do this past weekend’s Eat Drink Saratoga festival any favors. There was an excessive heat advisory for June 30, meaning don’t go outside if you don’t have to. But those who ignored this advice and slathered on the sunscreen had a fine time, with uncrowded access to the beverage vendors and food booths.

Sagamore Ryes

David Rose and his Sagamore Ryes

As I predicted, several of the less familiar beverage purveyors were there because of their relationship with sponsoring restaurant Hamlet & Ghost. I spent quality time with David Rose of Sagamore Spirit Rye, which is a Maryland product in spite of the New York-sounding name. (He says Sagamore simply means “chief of chiefs” in Abenaki.) Maryland rye is a thing, it turns out, sweeter and more drinkable than the ryes we normally encounter. My favorite was the cask strength, which didn’t taste strong at all: dangerous, especially on a hot afternoon.

One Life Tequila

Lisa Beth Elovitch shows pff One Life Tequila.

I also tasted and liked One with Life (OWL) tequila, a product made with organic agave. I had not understood that pesticides are used on agave plants to control those little worms that end up in the mezcal bottles; founder Lisa Beth Elovich told me they trap the bugs instead (didn’t ask her where they go after). This is a smooth yet complex product and at around $38 a bottle is a premium tequila without very high price tags for artisanal stuff. For Saratoga locals, it and the Sagamore Rye can be found at Purdy’s Liquors.

Also of note: Minogue, a local beer store, has gone into the craft brewing business and poured a pretty good double IPA. (Their single IPA was a little malty for me.) And St. Lawrence Distillery was sampling a pretty mean absinthe with the bonus insight that the wormwood in the original banned product never did make people crazy; it was all a conspiracy by the Champagne industry.

2 West Pork Ribs

Pork ribs with Korean sauce from 2 West.

As to the food, I did not go hungry. I was very happy with my $10 mezze platter from Hamlet and Ghost. Falafel and pea shoot hummus, roasted lamb with sauce, quinoa pilaf, a second hummus with pita for dipping filled me up very nicely. Best value was a $5 tray of Korean-seasoned pork ribs from 2 West, reminding me to give this local place another try. (I had stopped going when they took the lamb tartare off the menu.) A $10 dish of pulled pork with peppers from Prime and $5 helpings of oysters from 30 Lake (3 of them with good cocktail sauce and mignonette) and a slab of candied bacon from Salt & Char completed my dance card. Tips for future food booth operators: put out a sample plate showing what the festival goer gets for their token.

Late in the day, as things finally started to cool down, a lot of the vendors took advantage of the lighter traffic to hang out in each others’ booths. I am sure if you will ask them they had a great time and will be eager to return. Hopefully that bonhomie will carry over to a future Eat Drink Saratoga event, and I will keep fingers crossed for more favorable weather next time. For those who went, this was a hit and an event we’d like to see in our local festival rotation.

Posted in Eating, Events | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Recipe: Halal Guys White Sauce

Kebab Pita

Halal Guys White Sauce on some kebab meat and veggies, wrapped in a pita.

After all the speculation (and intentional misdirection) Halal Guys White Sauce proved surprisingly easy to copycat. It’s just mayonnaise with a bit of extra tartness and ground black pepper. Makes 1 cup.

Ingredients:
1 c mayonnaise (I use Hellman’s/Best Foods)
1 t white vinegar
1 t ground black pepper
1 T water*

Halal Guys Sauce Closeup

An extreme closeup of original sauce, showing dots of pepper.

Method: thoroughly mix ingredients in a serving bowl. Allow flavors to develop and spices to soften for at least an hour, then taste. It should be ever so slightly tarter than plain mayo. For the authentic experience, transfer to a squeeze bottle and serve with rice and Middle Eastern-style kebabs or marinated grilled chicken.

 

Here’s an alternate ingredient list using Greek yogurt for richness, plus extra spices. Not as authentic, but I like it better:

Ingredients:
½ c mayonnaise
½ c unflavored Greek yogurt, full fat
2 t fresh squeezed lemon juice
½ t ground black pepper
½ t ground sumac

*Water makes the sauce more squirtable and doesn’t affect the flavor. Feel free to leave it out.

Posted in Condiments, Recipes | Tagged , | 15 Comments

Recipe: Granny Shimer’s Pickled Beets & Eggs (from Jake Bryan)

Pickled Beet and Egg

Pickled Beets and Eggs with Onion

Reader Jake Bryan was kind enough to share his grandmother’s Pennsylvania Dutch recipe for pickled beets and eggs with onion. Only modification I’ve made is the salt content: Jake uses 1½ t per pint. (But he tells me his granny used a tablespoon.) Based on 1 dozen eggs.

Ingredients (per pint of pickling liquid):
1 c beet boiling liquid (see below)
1 c cider vinegar
2 t Kosher salt*
1 t whole black peppercorns
1 T whole mustard seed
6-8 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
8-12 peeled hard boiled eggs
1 lb red beets
1 large onion
2 peeled garlic cloves

Pickled Egg Jar

Pickled eggs in their jar; I took a couple out before photo which is why the liquid does not come to the top of the jar.

Method: boil washed, whole, unpeeled beets until cooked through but still firm. Save some of boiling liquid for pickling. Peel and slice cooked beets; place into large jar or non-metallic container along with hard boiled eggs and the separated rings of one thinly sliced onion.

Prepare the pickling liquid by mixing beet water, cider vinegar and spices. Bring to the boil and pour over contents of pickling jar. The ingredients should be covered and the liquid should come within ½ inch of the top of the container; if needed add more pickling liquid. Cover jar and cool to room temperature; refrigerate for one week before serving. Will keep for at least a month under refrigeration.

*An earlier version of this recipe left out the salt. FIXED.

Posted in Condiments, Mains, Recipes, Sides | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Best way to cook and peel a hard boiled egg

Perfectly Shelled Eggs

10 of 12 eggs were perfectly shelled using the ice water method; the others go into egg salad.

You’ll get lots of suggestions when you google “best way to peel a hardboiled egg” but this method actually works. Thanks to Laura at the Momables website.

To cook, place eggs in a saucepan sufficient to hold them all without crowding, and cover with 2 inches of water. Add a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a full boil over medium heat, then cover and turn off the heat. Eggs will be perfectly cooked (firm yolks with no green ring, a sign of overcooking) in 14 minutes for large eggs. (If starting with refrigerated eggs, add two minutes.)

Drain eggs and transfer immediately to a generous bowl of ice water (water with ice in it, not just cold water). Gently tap each egg against the side of the bowl, turning and repeating till cracks cover most of its surface. Under water, begin to peel away the shell. In most cases the membrane will come off attached to the shell, leaving a perfect shelled egg.

Eggs Peeled under Running Water

Eggs peeled under running water had a much poorer success rate.

We discovered this method while working on Sauce Packet Deviled Eggs; we weren’t staying in a motel so didn’t have access to pre-shelled hard boiled eggs. We tested it against the more conventional technique of shelling eggs under running water with dramatically better success: 10 of 12 eggs came out perfect vs 3 of 8 with the running-water method. We also tested an alternate cooking procedure in which eggs are added to boiling water; after water returns to boil turn off the heat, cover and let sit for 16 minutes. Results were similar (both in doneness and ease of shelling) but the cold water method is safer because you don’t run the risk of an egg cracking when exposed to sudden heat.

Why the salt? Momables says “it helps solidify the proteins within the egg” which is probably due to raising the water temperature slightly so the egg becomes firmer faster. If you’re concerned about reducing salt you can do without it; however, eggs cooked in salted water tasted no different than no-salt eggs, suggesting the salt doesn’t penetrate the shell.

Posted in Cooking | Tagged , | 2 Comments

The Halal Guys white sauce mystery… SOLVED!

SPOILER ALERT: this post is going to reveal exactly what is in the Halal Guys White Sauce. If you aren’t ready to know that, continue reading all the fanciful hoo-hah on the internet. You have been warned.

We assembled quite an arsenal of ingredients in anticipation of a vigorous assault on the never-before-revealed recipe for the white sauce served at the Halal Guys carts in NYC and, more recently, in packets at their strip mall restaurants. Mayo was at the ready, of course, but also “salad dressing” (a generic version of Miracle Whip, suggested by Kenji on this reddit), full fat Greek yogurt and sour cream… plus olive oil, white vinegar and lemon juice. The spices? We’ll get to those in a minute.

A fellow food blogger for whom I have the profoundest respect insists that the butterfat of sour cream is a valuable component in a Halal Guys-type sauce, but a single taste (in a flavorful but off-target recipe we tried initially) proved its richness was inappropriate. Greek yogurt we’d keep in our back pocket, on the theory that it’s not in the Halal Guys original but perhaps it’s needed to get the same effect without professional food processing equipment.

As to the spices, we figured we should focus on spices that might be common in a halal kitchen. We considered baharat, a multi-spice mixture that literally translates as “spice”, but its warm notes of cinnamon and clove were obviously out of place. More promising was ground sumac, which lends a desirable tart note. We noted that some copycat recipes use dill weed, which would go well with the yogurt-based tsadziki that inspired this sauce, but it’s easy to identify dill weed in sauce and we knew it wasn’t there.

How, exactly, did we know? Because we had a packet of official Halal Guys white sauce from one of the Guys’ strip mall locations. With trembling hands, we now slit the packet open and squeezed a small amount into a dish for sampling.

The first taste cut right to the chase for us: this is mayonnaise! Yes, it’s got some add-ins, but it’s unquestionably a mayo base and very little else. We opened the jar of Hellmans/Best Foods and tasted the sauce and the mayo repeatedly. No question. In a blindfold test, the average person would probably say they were the same. The Halal Guys sauce did have just a bit more tartness, so we added a little white vinegar. Nailed it. (Other brands of mayo might require more vinegar, or less.)

We still had to account for the spices in the Halal Guys, which didn’t contribute a lot to taste but showed up as tiny specks. We added small amounts of ground sumac and black pepper until our distribution of specks was similar to the original. We also added a little water, noting that the original was looser than our mix (to make it easier to squirt from a dispenser bottle). And then we waited.

An hour of aging disqualified sumac, which had been our insider pick as the secret ingredient. Here’s why: it turns the sauce pink. So we repeated the mix with the same amount of spice, using all pepper this time.

Halal White Sauce Closeup

Halal Guys White Sauce, smeared on a paper towel so spices are visible

Copycat Halal Sauce

Ground black pepper in our copycat sauce.

The two photos above were taken with an AMIR macro lens on an iPhone 6. TAKE A LOOK. The upper image is the original Halal Guys sauce, spread out on a paper towel so we can see the individual flecks of spice. The other image? It’s just ground black pepper, in our copycat sauce. Notice any similarity? Both have irregular shaped pieces, dots or not, due to the grinding process. (Our grind is coarser because that’s what we had on hand.) The specks are mostly black, but with some orange-y bits that are probably from the husk of the pepper berry. And NO other components such as flecks of another color (sorry, dill and sumac) or uniformly shaped tiny seeds (which might be nigella).

Is it possible there is something else beyond the ground pepper seasoning the mayo? Perhaps, but it’s so inconsequential it does not register either for taste or appearance. We’re calling this, so our testers can get back to their families.

I can see the Halal Guys stifling a chortle as seekers repeatedly asked for their “secret recipe” which is nothing more than mayo with a dash of black pepper. Anthony Bourdain would have loved (and probably was in on) this conspiracy of food elites and street smart entrepreneurs which have bedeviled earnest home bloggers for so long. It’s almost sad to see the movie come to an end.

P.S. The exact proportions of ingredients in our copycat sauce will be revealed in an upcoming post can be found right here.

Posted in Eating | Tagged , | 15 Comments

Your weekend guide to Utica ethnic eats

Zeina kibbeh

Raw Kibbeh studded with onions, a Saturday special at Zeina’s in Utica

A family schedule conflict threatens to keep us from attending the World Refugee Day Celebration in Utica this Saturday, June 16. But I assume you’re going, so I will share my strategy for scoring maximum ethnic cuisine throughout the day.

Plan to arrive between 9 and 10 and head for Lucky Mey’s Market for egg rolls, pre-made bahn mi and whatever else you want for your cooler. (Don’t forget your cooler!) Mey is from Cambodia and her Asian store gets excellent reviews on Google and was the subject of this local newspaper article. They usually run out of egg rolls, which is why Lucky Mey’s is first on our list. Open at 9 am.

Then, breakfast at Lejla and Ajla Coffee Shop, a Bosnian place at 331 South Street. (These are Google links so you can map your day.) Get a pastry and some coffee, assuming they are open. (I drove by there on my last visit without realizing it was a going business.) Don’t get too full because you are going to across the street to Zwe Ka Bin Burmese Tea and Snack Shop. When I stopped in previously they said they could make me fried rice or noodle salad; I was interested in the latter but would also see if there are more options. (There is no menu and the counter person doesn’t have much English.) And while in the neighborhood, pop into Aye Tue Asian Market next to Lejla and Alja, and see if they have anything interesting to take out. (Google says Aye Tue is at 335 James Street and opens at 10; don’t know if this is a different branch and they have moved, but you will find out.)

By now it’s close to noon, so let’s go to Kennedy Plaza (the lawn outside city hall) for the festival. I don’t have an hour by hour schedule; the two big events we want to see are the citizenship ceremony (sure to put a lump in your throat) and the international fashion show in which populations will show off their native dress. Hopefully these are toward the beginning. There will be a number of food trucks at the event including Snoop Dogz (which will be serving Bosnian-style Cevapi in addition to its usual hamburgers and hot dogs),  Saritas (Spanish food with an American twist) and Korean Kuisine, as well as Utica Coffee Roasting and Gloria’s Ice Cream, I’m hoping there will also be sidewalk vendors selling foods, like the church ladies at Buddhist festivals I’m used to in California, but guessing there will not be.

After the festival, we’ll have a mid afternoon snack of raw kibbeh studded with chunks of onion (see photo, which I borrowed from Jennifer Ann on Facebook) at Zeina’s Cafe, a Lebanese place. This dish is only served on Saturday and you might want to call ahead and see if they have ample quantities and if not reserve a dish or two for your party. Then, before heading out, stock up on some of Utica’s better known ethnic specialties: tomato pie and house-made sausage at Roma Sausage and Deli (if you want a whole pie, call ahead). I also want to stop at Mello’s Subs for an Italian Mix for the cooler, based on a picture I saw on Instagram of a line out the door. Note that Roma closes at 4:30, Mello’s at 6 pm. Also, if you’re thirsty stop into Saranac Matt Brewing Company where a tour costs $5 and includes at least one beer and probably more at the end.

If you still have time and appetite, check our earlier post for even more ethnic eating suggestions. You’re in for a great day. Please report back on what you discover and taste!

Posted in Eating, Events | Tagged | 4 Comments

Recipe: Utica Long Hots

Utica Long Hots

Utica Long Hot Peppers

Another in the pantheon of Utica Italian specialties, along with Chicken Riggies and Utica Greens. Utica Long Hots couldn’t be easier to make, or more challenging to eat: the peppers range from mild to Jalapeño-hot, and you don’t know what you’re dealing with till you take your first bite. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
1 lb long hot peppers (Messina peppers), stems removed
2 T olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and quartered
1/2 t Kosher salt

Method: heat oil in an oven-proof skillet and sauté garlic till fragrant. Add peppers and cook until one side becomes lightly charred; turn and cook till blistered on opposite side. Lower heat and cover; cook 15-20 minutes until skin becomes wrinkly and loose. Add salt before serving.

To eat, take a tentative nibble to judge hotness. If too spicy, slice open and remove seeds before continuing. Or live dangerously by plopping a whole pepper on a sausage sandwich, then enjoy your guests’ reactions as they chow down. Just kidding: they go fine on a sandwich, but taste before using and consider using smaller pieces, and no seeds, if they are super spicy.

Posted in Recipes, Sides | Tagged , | Leave a comment