Bahn Mi from Phu Quoc, Utica NY
Utica is the hardscrabble central New York city known for tomato pie, Utica Greens and Chicken Riggies, attributed to the Italian immigrants who came here to work in the factories and mills in the early 20th century. But there’s another, more recent wave of immigrants: refugees from Bosnia, southeast Asia and other war-torn regions who were welcomed to the region. There’s a refugee resource center to help with legal, job and resettlement issues, and they celebrate World Refugee Day each year. (In 2018 it’s on June 16, from 12 to 4 pm.)
According to the New York Times, as much as a quarter of Utica’s population is made up of refugees. “The immigrants have been an economic engine for the city, starting small businesses, buying and renovating down-at-the-heels houses and injecting a sense of vitality to forlorn city streets.” It’s an inspiring story very much at odds with the narrative that refugees are by definition marginal people who are more likely to commit crimes and soak up services.
But, this being a food blog, what do they eat? I’ve made a couple of trips to Utica to seek out the origins of their legendary Italian-American dishes which are not easily given up. Some of the most iconic attractions are holes in the wall. And when I started looking for places serving Burmese or Bosnian food, I came up with a blank. Sunny and Lotus Garden have a smattering of Cambodian dishes, but the patrons are mainly Caucasian and most of the menu is standard pan-Asian fare. (Links are from TripAdvisor and Google Maps; Yelp has a very faint footprint in central New York.)
Live seafood at Nguyen Phat market
Then it occurred to me I was going about it the wrong way. Recent immigrants may not have the money to go out to dinner. But they still have to eat. What about ethnic groceries? This search led me to Nguyen Phat, a rabbit warren of a store that would be welcome in any community where you can buy pretty much anything you want including live crabs and pig’s blood.
Zwe Ka Bin Burmese tea shop. Make note of address and phone since it’s not in any directory.
The proprietress was out of bahn mi, but she directed me down the street to the place that makes them: Phu Quoc. This sleepy establishment has a limited menu that includes various soups, noodle dishes and perfectly acceptable sandwiches. I’d be here often if I lived in Utica.
Emboldened, I moved on to the next spot on my list, Golden Burma Asian Market. Like Nguyen Phat there were freezers with pretty much anything a recent immigrant might want. But on the way I’d passed “Zwe Ka Bin Burmese Tea and Snack Shop” (not on any directory; it’s at 328 South Street), and I had to go back and check it out. Here was the mother lode I was seeking: a group of elders (bearded men and a woman wearing an elaborate costume) were in intense dialog as I asked the lady in the kitchen if she had a menu? No, we don’t. What can you make for me? Fried rice, or noodle salad. The salad intrigued me but I had a prior engagement and had to take a rain check. On the way out, I spied Aye Tue Asian Grocery Store, yet another promising spot across the street.
Chef Danny of Trattoria Calabria holds forth on the food traditions of Utica.
My prior engagement was for a fixed dinner at Trattoria Calabria, a holdover from the earlier wave of immigrants. Chef Danny puts out a traditional many-course meal because, as he put it, Italians had to eat and they were creative with what was available to them. I mentioned my ethnic food search and he said there had formerly been a Bosnian restaurant next door. It was struggling until Danny suggested they feature their chicken riggies, which then won the local contest two years in a row. Sadly, the owner died young as had several Bosnians of his acquaintance who were scarred by their war. But there’s still a pan-eastern-European deli in the strip mall, with Russian-Korean carrot salad and an endless array of pickles and salamis.
I left Utica unraped and unmurdered, in spite of warnings from our government, and eager to return and participate in this grand melting pot experience. I’ve already marked my calendar for the World Refugee Day celebration on June 16. Let me know if you want to be part of the caravan.
