How do I know when my steak is done?

How do I know when my steak is done

Jean O’Toole of the New York Beef Council shows how to grill a perfect steak, with assistance from Community Ambassador Daniel B of Yelp.

The other day I had a tour of Trowbridge Farm, a cow-calf operation in the Hudson Valley, courtesy of Yelp and the New York Beef Council. At the end of the tour Beef Council President Jean O’Toole gave us a steak grilling lesson. Answering the eternal question, how do I know when my steak is done? she produced a meat thermometer! And jammed that bad boy into the New York strip sideways from the edge to get a good center reading.

I know what you are thinking: if I tried that stunt at my own cookout, I’d have my grill chef’s license taken away. But it does give you an accurate measure, as long as you’re careful to stick the probe in the center of the meat and away from any bone.

However, knowing the steak’s current temperature does not necessarily translate into knowing its degree of doneness. You’ll find a variety of different temperature recommendations if you google how do I know when my steak is done, including two different sets on the canonical Beef What’s for Dinner site.

The temperature chart I like best is from Certified Angus Beef: 125 degrees Fahrenheit for rare, 135 medium rare, 145 medium, 150 medium well, 160 well; these are finished temps so remove from heat when 5 degrees below desired serving temp (10 degrees if it’s a really thick steak) and let it rest 5 minutes or more.

You could also use the fingertip feel method: touch your index finger to your thumb, use the index finger of the other hand to gauge the firmness of the muscle on the outside edge of your palm that joins the two digits, then compare it to the surface of your steak on the grill. If they feel the same, that steak is rare. Move the thumb to the middle finger for medium rare, ring finger for medium, little finger for well-done. This sort of works but it’s subjective, and I will contend that different hands feel different: a cowpoke’s callused mitt is going to be inherently firmer than that of a callow teenage dishwasher.

Or you could test your steak for doneness like we do at Burnt My Fingers. Start by searing one side of the steak to a nice crust, moving it once if you want an attractive cross hatched grill mark. This will take perhaps 3 minutes on a good hot grill (or a hot cast iron pan). Now, flip it over. Poke that seared surface and you will find it hard and crisp on the outside but the flesh beneath is soft and yielding with very little resistance.

Cook for 2 more minutes and press again. The steak should now push back at you a bit. When you feel that resistance, TAKE IT OFF THE GRILL and you will have a beautiful rare to medium rare steak after resting. I would never cook my steak past this point but if you want medium give it another minute; the interior will feel quite firm and solid. And well-done? There is really no way to please the well-done diner* who, I think, really wants meat that doesn’t look like meat. It will still be edible, vs shoe leather, if you leave it on a further minute or two but immediately take it off if the surface starts to lose its moisture.

Is this method perfect? No, but there can be no such thing as perfection when degrees of doneness are subjective even on official industry websites. The best thing about our method is that you are unlikely to end up with an overdone steak; if it is too rare the worst that can happen is you’ll have to throw it back on the grill for a little longer.

*One of the longest shifts I ever worked as a grill cook was a New Years day, when I got multiple orders for well-done steaks. The steaks kept coming back as not done enough, and I’d grill them some more until finally the diner sent the steak back as inedible. One wonders why people so hung over they could not stand the sight of red meat would come to a steak and prime rib place to begin with.

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Apples as condiment: the crunchy chameleon

Apple Beef Sandwich

Apples as condiment along with blue cheese, fennel and caramelized onion

The other day I had one of the best sandwiches of my life at a place called Big Mountain Deli in Lake Placid, New York. Called the MARCY, it mixed roast turkey, cranberry horseradish sauce, cheddar, apple & cracked pepper mayo. Actually that was my son’s sandwich which I finished when he didn’t. My sandwich was the GOTHICS combining roast beef, caramelized onion, blue cheese & horseradish mayo. These are two of 46 varieties on offer, in honor of the Adirondack high peaks, and you can also make your own combinations.

There were several factors that made these sandwiches fabulous: a great house made roll. A sharp funky cheese. Lubrication from the flavored mayo. Perfectly matched condiments. And an ample portion of quality meat.

I resolved to do a mashup when I got home and ended up with what you see above. I cut one of my baguettes lengthwise down the middle and spread each half with a mixture of mayo, horseradish and crumbled blue cheese. I grilled off some tri-tip which had been marinated in fish sauce, red wine, olive oil, pepper and Persian spices and sliced it thin. I added thin sliced apples and onion which I’d caramelized along with some fennel. It’s not as pretty as Big Mountain but was awful good and will get better as I improve my technique.

What I want to talk about, though, is those apples. Apple slices make a great condiment on a sandwich, it turns out, adding crunch like crisp lettuce plus a sweetness to balance the other ingredients. I have lots of apples from the trees in our yard and am going to add apple-dressed sandwiches to my regular rotation.

Apple season is big business in upstate New York where I live. We go touring for tastes of apple cider donuts and u-pick apple orchards. There are hay rides and corn mazes celebrating what used to be the first cold, crisp days and are now some of the last warm (or warmish) days before winter sets in. Then we end up with a lot of apples that have to be eaten. Using apples as condiment is a good way to do it.

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Q. What’s the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident?

What's the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident

What’s the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident? I’ll say Burger House in Dallas,  because my grandmother first took me there when I was five years old and I didn’t know where we were going. That’s Jack, the founder, on the left.

Q. What’s the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident? Quora prompted me to answer that question, and I thought my reply might lead to some conversation. If you would like to add your own experiences, please comment below!

A. I rarely choose a restaurant by accident these days. Menu prices and opportunity cost (the lost opportunity to eat at another, better place) are just too high, and it’s easy to look up reviews on Yelp or, less frequently, TripAdvisor and Google Maps. But I traveled extensively in Europe and Mexico when I was much younger, and then I did have some fortuitous discoveries. I remember a great chicken place in the heart of Florence and an outdoor barbecue emporium in the hills above Ljubljana, both discovered through tips from locals.

Burger House Cheeseburger

Burger House cheeseburger, as good as it gets.

There are several clues that tell me such a place is likely to be well above average. First, it’s going to be much more crowded than nearby places. Second, a peek inside shows people are actually enjoying their meals and that food is a central part of the dining experience and not a sideline. This usually entails a walk through the restaurant, ostensibly to check out the bar or restroom, and I am not shy about peeking at diners’ dishes and maybe asking a server what they are eating. It’s a plus if there is a good level of service, and people are not sitting around glumly waiting for their meals. (A typical scene at the modest breakfast places frequented by millennials, who apparently enjoy the social experience of waiting on line for hours for mediocre food.)

The places that have surprised me in recent memory have actually been chain restaurants, like Golden Corral and 99 (an upstate New York chain) where I have dined out of due diligence as a food blogger and had a much better experience than expected. Golden Corral is a buffet place that has decent choices if you stay away from the grey prime rib and desserts. And 99 has real prep work going on in the kitchen you can see through the pass.

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Recipe: Sweet and Sour Pork

Sweet and Sour Pork

Sweet and Sour Pork

This sweet and sour pork recipe is adapted from Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees, a Chinese cookbook organized by cooking method (in this case, velveting and deep frying). I’ve added some of my favorite ingredients from takeout food to what is actually an authentic Chinese recipe. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 T Xiaoxing cooking wine or dry sherry
1 t salt
¼ t ground white or black pepper
1 lb boneless pork loin, cut into ¾ inch cubes
Cornstarch
Vegetable oil for frying

For the sauce:
¼ c water
3 T Xiaoxing cooking wine or dry sherry
3 T ketchup
1 T rice vinegar
½ t Kosher salt
2 T sugar or honey
2 t cornstarch
¼ c pineapple juice (from can of pineapple)

For cooking:
1 T oil for wok
1 T minced garlic
1 green bell pepper, cut into ¾ inch pieces
1 onion, peeled and cut into ¾ inch pieces
½ c pineapple chunks

Method: mix marinade ingredients: salt, pepper, egg white, cooking wine; add pork and marinate 30 minutes. Heat oil to 375 degrees. Roll pork pieces in cornstarch and fry them a few at a time so they do not stick together, 4-5 minutes until outside is crisp and firm (they will not brown). Drain on paper towels.

Make sauce by mixing cornstarch and water to a slurry; add other ingredients. Heat oil in wok and add garlic; sauté until fragrant. Add pepper and onion and cook slightly till softened; add sauce and pineapple and heat through. Add reserved pork pieces and toss to mix. Serve hot with rice.

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Food for Thought: Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees

I ran across Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees in a Facebook comment by Rob Handel, the chef I interviewed about foraging. Rob is a trained botanist who likes to categorize things, so I can see why he would enjoy this book. It’s organized by cooking methods: stir-frying, red cooking, flavored steaming and so on. You learn the technique, then get several recipes to practice it. There’s also a preface describing the characteristics of each region’s cuisine, including lesser-known (in the West) areas like zhejiang and shandong. The author, Kian Lam Kho, is from Singapore which provides an appreciated third-party objectivity as well as some nice dishes from Kho’s own upbringing.

Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees also has some excellent historical tidbits. We learn that Mapo, as in Mapo Dofu, literally means “pock marked” and this iconic dish is named after Pock-Marked Chen, who endured the epithet but also opened a restaurant specializing in mapo dofu which is still in business in China today. We also discover that sweet and sour pork, far from a Westernized abomination, was a logical creation by Chinese who migrated to California, and that General Tso’s Chicken, often mocked for its inauthenticity, was invented in Taiwan, by a chef who late opened a restaurant in NYC that was unsuccessful because people didn’t think it was authentic enough.

Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees (the title is a literal translation of the characters representing chicken feet and Chinese broccoli) is good reading with some good recipes. Check it out.

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Top 5 non-recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers (2018 edition)

top non-recipe posts on Burnt My FingersLet’s start with the big news, as we look at the top non-recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers over the past 12 months. Just 90 days after publication The Halal Guys White Sauce mystery… SOLVED is ranked in the #5 position for the entire year which has to be a record. And if you Google “Halal Guys White Sauce” you’ll see our post above the intentionally misleading Serious Eats non-recipe that got our knickers in a twist to begin with. How sweet it is!

About 8 times a day, somebody somewhere wonders about the origins of that eggy, mustardy sauce we put on our turkey sandwiches after thanksgiving. That’s why The Sauce That Made Mr. Durkee Famous is the #1 overall non-recipe post for the past 12 months. Right behind it is another perennial favorite, What’s the Best Flour for Baking Bread? But then things get interesting.

Hacking the Salt & Char Ribeye Cap Steak is our attempt to duplicate the preparation of this expensive cut at the expensive Saratoga Springs steakhouse. If you’d like to save a few bucks, as many readers did, you’re in for a treat. (In fact, you could buy a couple of prime rib roasts, cut off the rib caps and save the rest, and you’d probably spend what they charge at S&C for a single serving of their American Wagyu Cap Steak).

#4 of our top Burnt My Fingers non-recipe posts is another evergreen topic, Rainier Ale discontinued? Alas, it’s true. We enjoy beer but don’t write about it a lot on the blog. But this tragic tale transcends cuisines and beverage choices. What foods pair beautifully with this potent amber ale? A plate of Halal Guys chicken with rice, for one thing. Or a submarine sandwich, or a Chinese banquet, or… ok, I’ll stop. All those millennials ironically sipping their PBRs should be aware their company put a stake in the heart of our beloved Green Death.

We didn’t give a pass to the perennial favorites as we did on our recipe report, but if we had The cure for watery steak and Turkey Joints from Nora’s of Rome, NY would have rounded out the top five. Man, that steak would taste good with a 40 of Rainier Ale….

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Recipe: Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic

Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic

Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic

Here’s the Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic recipe I used for my Douban Jiang taste test. It’s adapted from a similar prep on the Steamy Kitchen blog. Serves 4 as a main dish, 6 as a side.

Ingredients:
2 lbs Asian eggplant (about 5)*
Salt
Peanut or other neutral oil for wok
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ jalapeño, chopped
½ inch chunk fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 or more green onions, cut in half lengthwise and then chopped, including part of the green
2 t douban jiang (Sichuan chili bean sauce)
1 T soy sauce
1 T Chinese black vinegar
Pinch of sugar (maybe 1/2 t), optional

Method: slice the eggplant lengthwise into ¾ inch slices. (You can also use standard round eggplant but you should peel them first, and the finished dish won’t be as visually attractive.) Sprinkle both sides with salt and let sit upright in a colander until a good amount of water has leached out, about 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

Heat about 2 T oil in a wok and add garlic and ginger; cook until fragrant, a couple of minutes. Add jalapeño and green onion and sauté briefly, then add eggplant and cook until tender, about 5 minutes, turning frequently. Add soy sauce, vinegar, douban jiang and sugar and cook briefly until you can smell the chilis. Toss to combine and serve hot.

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Top 5 recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers (2018 edition)

Amish Creamed Celery

Creamed Celery is one of the top 5 recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers for 2018.

Another year is in the books, as we celebrate the 7thanniversary of this blog. The Colonel’s KFC Three-Bean Salad is the recipe post that got the most clicks over the past 12 months, but as in the past we’ll give this perennial favorite a bye along with Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw and Squash Casserole a la Highland Park Cafeteria. So let’s look at the top 5 recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers other than those three:

  1. Vinegar Peppers is an upstate Italian-American classic we hacked in order to make Pork Chops with Vinegar Peppers like they serve at Mio Posto, formerly in Saratoga but now moved to Albany. (Though Danny Petrosino, whose prep we were copying, now owns Osteria Danny if you’re keeping track.) As a bonus, you can use these in Chicken Riggies.
  2. Amish Creamed Celery is an exciting newcomer which we developed because we didn’t have the opportunity to try it during our tour of Pennsylvania’s Amish country a year ago. It’s a very pleasant way to use the rest of that package of celery you bought for your Thanksgiving stuffing, a side dish served in a slightly sweet béchamel.
  3. Aji Roja (Mild Red Chile Sauce Peruvian-Style). I came up with this tangy mixture, along with a green companion, to serve with the Peruvian grilled heart specialty called anticuchos. The real lure of Aji Roja may be that it’s a taste-alike for the “tacolicious” sauce served in the  Bay Area. Also, we seem to be the only folks to call it “roja” rather than “rojo” which made sense to us because “salsa” is feminine thus we end up on top of Google results when you search for “aji roja”.
  4. Pickled Tripe is still going strong, another proof that Burnt My Fingers readers are some of the best people in the world and decidedly different from the patrons of other food blogs. This is a very easy dish to make starting with cooked tripe; our from-scratch Pennsylvania Dutch pickled tripe is still to come.
  5. Raw Liver Poke is just what sounds like: a variation of trendy Hawaiian poke made with raw fish and seaweed, except we started with the freshest possible cow’s liver straight from the farm. Don’t knock it if you haven’t tried it. We first ordered at Helena’s on Oahu and it took us a couple of decades to duplicate the recipe, but now we’re enjoying it every day! (Well, occasionally.)

Congratulations on choosing such an eclectic mix of ethnic and hole-in-the-wall cuisines!

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Taste Test: Douban Jiang (Sichuan chili bean paste)

Douban Jiang Taste Test

Douban Jiang Taste Test: eggplant cooked with Pixian style, mystery sauce, Lee Kum Kee

Jimmy Lau, a Chinese-born chef who works at a Japanese omakase restaurant in NYC, pranked the New York Times when interviewed for the feature on how he spends his Sunday. Describing some culinary experimentation he does with his nephew, also a chef, he says “I’m really into a Chinese chili paste made with broad beans called doubanjiang. It gives any meat or fish a really nice spiciness, along with a touch of sourness.”

What’s the prank? If you know Sichuan cooking unike me, you realize that statement is like a guy who sells French fries saying he’s experimenting with a new topping called ketchup. Doubanjiang, aka tobanjang or chili bean sauce, is ubiquitous in spicy dishes like eggplant with garlic or mapo dofu. It’s as common as dirt, though more delicious. Not realizing this, I scrambled to my local Asian market in search of a new treat … and ended up with an interesting taste test as well.

Mystery Douban

Mystery Douban Jiang (or is it?)

The item I brought home* is what you see in the green container. There is no English on the label other than the ingredient list and it is misleading. It says the product contains wheat flour, margarine, white sugar, corn syrup… a fools paradise of bad-for-you stuff. But it also says “1 serving per bottle” and said serving contains 240 mg of sodium when you’d get that in a teaspoon full. In other words, the container is mislabeled. Wonder where this label was supposed to go? In fact the stuff is brown and spicy and does contain beans though they are cooked to falling-apart softness.

Pixian Douban

Expensive Pixian Douban is worth it

Still doubting I had the right product, I did as anyone might and went to Amazon. There I found Pixian Broad Bean Paste which according to malafoods meets the stringent certification requirements of the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of China (AQSIQ). Can’t beat that.

Then by chance I found in my pantry Lee Kum Kee chili bean sauce, which I’d purchased by mistake thinking it was sriracha type chili sauce. This is recommended by some as a readily available form of doubanjiang and in fact the label calls it toban djan.

Lee kum Kee Douban

Lee Kum Kee… not good

How did they taste? To find out, I made a typical recipe for Chinese eggplant with garlic waiting till the last minute to add the doubanjiang. The Lee Kum Kee was definitely the worst, brassy and one dimensional with an overpowering salty taste. The mystery box was pretty good. But the Pixian, which costs 4 times as much with Amazon Prime, was definitely worth it with a bright, complex taste and a barely-ground texture so you could pick out individual bits of chili skins and mashed beans.

Like Jimmy Lau, I’m interested in experimenting with this new ingredient and may add a dash of it to, for example, sautéed Italian greens. I’ve got enough to last me awhile.

*On a return trip to the Asian Supermarket, I found an easy two dozen variations of doubanjiang. Just dumb luck I ended up with this one the first time.

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Golden oldies from Burnt My Fingers

Wilted Kale Salad

Wilted Kale Salad… a true golden oldie from Burnt My Fingers

September is the anniversary month of this blog, wherein we reveal the posts that have garnered the most views over the past 12 months. In the next couple of weeks we’ll report on the most popular recipes, then the most popular non-recipe posts. If you love the clips shows on the Simpsons, you’ll want to stay tuned. But first, let’s take a look at some Golden Oldies from Burnt My Fingers…. posts that were incredibly popular at one time but have since dropped off the edge of the planet.

Why I’m not buying a Sansaire sous vide device got over 17,000 pageviews, making it our most viewed post ever. It represented the tip of an internet iceberg battle over this once-new cooking technology. Today, crickets. Similarly, My first sous vide is among our all-time top ten but more recently can’t crack the top 100. Did everybody buy a sous vide cooker, try it, and leave it moldering in the back of the pantry? Is the same thing going to happen with the Instant Pot?

In the recipe department, Wilted Kale Salad is an all-time top tenner but rarely gets a click these days. Seems like we’re done with healthy eating. Sizzling Chicken Sisig is another former top post that attracted massive traffic from the Phillippines till the search engines changed their algorithm. This hack of supermarket rotisserie chicken to make a favorite bar snack definitely deserves another look.

Let’s honor these fallen warriors with a nod and a click. Since foods are tied to comfort, nostalgia is a key part of the eating experience. After all, there was a time when we loved Scalloped Potatoes with Tongue.

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