How to win Saratoga Restaurant Week

Taverna Novo Pizza and Oven

The Margherita Pizza served as part of the $20 Saratoga Restaurant Week menu. (Their photo, not mine; my pizza was gone before I could take a photo.)

The first hard frost of the season is predicted for tonight, but I’m going out because we’re in the midst of Saratoga Restaurant Week. You can find our 2019 Saratoga County Restaurant Week offerings here.

As usual, some places look at Restaurant Week as bonus publicity for their regular menu. They’ll toss in a cookie with their regular burger and chips and call it their $10 lunch special. Or they’ll take advantage of their free listing and say they are participating and not bother to put up a menu at all. Not cool, and we will remember.

The best places will put together an inventive menu that does not have too high a food cost but really shows off what the restaurant can do. This is how you attract new customers or reactivate past customers, as in the example of the $20 menu from Taverna Novo which offered the soup of the day, a margherita pizza and a generous slice of pistachio cheesecake made in house.

Tomorrow night (the menu says it’s served starting Wednesday, but they weren’t ready) you can have Dominic Colose’s new Mediterranean-inspired menu also for $20. Dominic used to rail against restaurant weeks in his blog, so I’m happy he’s come around.

There’s also a $30 menu level which provides some wiggle room for fine-dining places like Salt & Char and The Blue Hen*, but you can also find some modest spots here where it would be hard to drop $30 at regular prices. I think I’ll stick to the $20 establishments and there are more than enough of those to last me till Sunday.

*Blue Hen also has a $35 prix fixe menu which includes a glass of wine and selections you may prefer to the Restaurant Week menu, and it’s available on a regular basis.

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Recipe: Smoothie Bread

Smoothie Bread

Smoothie Bread made with white rye and whole wheat flour

Smoothie Bread was inspired by the wild and crazy bakers at Hungry Ghost in Northampton, MA, who have started putting seaweed, beets and other unexpected things in their dough. Eating our smoothie bread is like drinking a breakfast smoothie or protein shake—except it’s bread! Just like the smoothie itself, the recipe is very adaptable so you can substitute, add or subtract from the recommended add-ins to your heart’s content. Makes two 1 ½ lb loaves.

Ingredients
150 g lively sourdough starter @100% made with half whole wheat flour and half all purpose flour (this is the Tartine formula)
50 g cornmeal
450 g whole wheat flour or mix of whole wheat and other darker flours (we used 200 g white rye and 250 g whole wheat)
500 g all-purpose flour
650 g water
50 g/ ½ c dried currants or raisins
50 g/ ½ c chopped walnuts or other nuts
100 g/1 c smoothie mix of berries, chopped fruit, finely chopped kale etc—whatever you like to put in your smoothie
1 T caraway seeds
2 T sorghum, honey or blackstrap molasses
1 T or more Kosher salt

This is the frozen smoothie mix we used, found in a 2-lb bag at our big box store.

Method: mix starter, water and flour and autolyze 30 minutes or longer. Add salt and either a/start a series of 8 stretch-and-folds, 15 minutes apart; or b/knead on second speed for 7 minutes or until you have good gluten development. Add the mix-ins after the second-stretch-and-fold or 1 minute of mixing. When the ingredients are thoroughly combined, taste for salt and add more if you wish. (We added another full T.) Allow to rise in a warm place for 4 hours.

Transfer the risen dough to a floured work surface. Divide and shape the dough; cover and rest for 30 minutes. Transfer to floured bannetons, place in plastic bags and refrigerate overnight. In the morning, let the dough come to room temperature for about an hour then preheat oven with 2 cast iron dutch ovens inside to 500 degrees. When ready to bake, carefully remove the hot pans from the oven and sprinkle the bottom interior surface with polenta. Transfer the dough to the dutch oven and cover. Bake 20 minutes, then lower heat to 450 degrees and bake another 10 minutes. Remove cover and bake another 20 minutes or until the crust is a rich dark brown (it will be darker than usual because of the sugar content) and registers 206 degrees on a meat thermometer. Rest at least 1 ½ hours before eating with butter or spread with a soft cheese.

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Recipe: Ethiopian Red Lentils in Tomato Sauce

Ethiopian Red Lentils in Tomato Sauce

Ethiopian Red Lentils in Tomato Sauce

When you’re composing a combination of dishes to be served on injera for an Ethiopian meal, you need at least one stick-to-the-ribs dish that is the equivalent of chili in American cuisine. This Ethiopian Red Lentils in Tomato Sauce recipe fits the bill. I’ve borrowed Kittee Berns’ recipe for ye’misser wot be’timatim, though I’ve substituted Niter Kibbeh for the vegan cooking oil.

Ingredients:
½ c dried red lentils (can use other lentils if that’s what you have)
Water to cover, about 3 cups
1 c red onion, finely chopped
A bit of salt (for cooking the onions)
2 T Niter Kibbeh or clarified butter or olive oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ t peeled and grated fresh ginger
½ t ground coriander
¼ t ground cardaman
2 T berbere seasoning*
2 t paprika
1 T tomato paste
1 small tomato, diced
Reserved lentil cooking liquid as required

Method: Cook the lentils with a generous amount of water, adding more if needed. Bring to the boil then lower heat and simmer, stirring and skimming frequently, until tender. This should take no more than 10-15 minutes. Drain the lentils and reserve the cooking liquid

Add onion and salt to a dry saucepan and cook over low-medium heat until the onion has released its liquid and softened, stirring to keep it from burning, about 5 minutes. Add niter kibbeh and heat to melting, scraping up any bits of onin that have stuck to the pan. Cover and cook over very low heat until onion is very soft and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Uncover and add spices and cook on medium heat about a minute until fragrant, stirring to expose them to the hot oil. Add tomato paste and diced tomato and a cup of the reserved lentil cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer until the sauce has thickened somewhat and the tomato has broken down. Add the lentils and possibly a bit more of the cooking liquid to create a very thick slurry you will be able to scoop up without dripping. Cover and heat a few minutes to blend the flavors. You can serve immediately, but this preparation will be just as good reheated the next day.

*I use Penzey’s Berbere which I think is spicier than most blends. Taste and add more as you go to your own tolerance/preferences. Resist the temptation to just use cayenne because berbere includes a number of additional ingredients (check the list on the Penzey’s link above).

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Ethiopian food and cultural appropriation

Injera Fries Schug

Leftover fries on injera with a dollop of Lebanese schug… hardly authentic, but delicious.

Is it okay that the best Ethiopian cookbook in English is written by a white, ethical vegan feminist? We’re talking about Teff Love by Kittee Berns which, after exploring multiple sources online, still produces the best results in our ham-handed attempts to replicate the meals we’ve had in Ethiopian restaurants.

A possible answer is this blog post by Sistah Vegan, which came out at the time Teff Love was published in 2015. The author’s beef (our poor choice of words) wasn’t with Berns or the book, but rather the publisher’s promos that the book “demystified” Ethiopian cooking and might make readers who are in fact Ethiopian feel marginalized because they are assumed not to be in the mainstream of American society.

Is it okay that the best Sichuan cookbook is written by Fuchsia Dunlop, an Englishwoman? Can barbecue be racist by perpetuating certain white stereotypes about black pit bosses in the South? Our answers to these questions would be yes, and no. We respect the cultural concerns these questions bring up, but we’re here for the food. We taste something new and different and want to make it in our kitchen, and it doesn’t matter if it’s raw liver from Hawaii or pickled tripe from the Pennsylvania Dutch (not Amish).

Some of our fondest memories from our time in the Bay Area are the Chowhound dinners which featured a mix of non-Asian, Chinese American and native Chinese foodies tasting the very best banquet style meals that were often designed just for us. The chefs were proud of their skills and the ethnic Chinese diners were proud to share part of their culture. This pride comes from sharing something very special that you’ve worked hard to attain. If the anglo diners were appropriating Chinese culture, at least our curiosity was respectful.

As regular readers of this blog will have noticed, we’re currently obsessed with Ethiopian food. We’ve tinkered with a number of the standard recipes you find in almost every U.S. Ethiopian restaurant including tibs, gomen and kitfo, but yearn to know more about the variety available in the mother country. Ethiopia is geographically diverse with deep valleys (including the Rift, home of early human Lucy), mountains and high plateaus and each region has its characteristic crops and foods. We are tempted to just go there and see for ourselves, as did this African-American restaurant owner from the DC area. However, most of the popular restaurants in Addis Ababa, the capital, are Italian according to TripAdvisor; Ethiopia was occupied by Italy before and during World War II though citizens like to point out it was never a “colony”.

Injera Butter Honey

Instead of biscuits for breakfast, try butter on injera with honey.

In the meantime, we’ve been tinkering with ways to enjoy non-Ethiopian dishes on injera, and enjoying the sharp sourdough taste and the pleasure of eating your serving utensils. Almost any food that is finely textured (or chopped into small pieces) and has the consistency of a stew is a candidate. A typical Texas BBQ plate of brisket, beans, slaw and potato salad could easily be served on injera instead of a side of white bread. If that’s cultural appropriation, we plead guilty and please pass the Tabasco.

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Recipe: Gomen (Ethiopian collard greens)

Gomen Recipe

Gomen is typically served with kitfo in an Ethiopian meal

This Gomen recipe is borrowed from Kittee Berns’ Teff Love, except that I’ve substituted Niter Kibbeh for her vegan ye’quimen zeyet since it’s being served with kitfo. Add a dollop of ricotta to your injera (substituting for the Ethiopian ayib) and you’re good to go. Makes 4 ½ c servings.

Ingredients:
1 T niter kibbeh
½ red or white onion, peeled, sliced and cut into strips
2 cloves garlic, grated
½ t grated ginger
1 bunch collards, very finely chopped
½ c water
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: sauté onion in niter kibbeh until very soft, 10 minutes or so. Add garic and ginger and cook just until fragrant, about a minute. Add collards and water and stir to mix in, then cover and cook over low heat until thoroughly wilted but not mushy, about 10 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve with kitfo and ayib/ricotta on injera.

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Water. Flour. Salt.

Hungry Ghost Whole Wheat Boule

Amazing whole wheat boule from Hungry Ghost in Northampton, MA made with nothing but water, flour and salt.

Water. Flour. Salt. Is the English translation of one of our favorite blogs, from a Romanian baker named Codutra. (Sadly, it’s gone on hiatus but the recipes are all still there, though you’ll need a translation app if you don’t speak Romanian.) It’s also a reminder that sourdough bread is at its essence those three things, when you don’t count the wild yeast captured from the air and nurtured in the water and flour mix. (Salt has not yet been added since it retards yeast development.)

Salt is by far the least of those three ingredients in weight and volume, but it has an outsize impact on taste. When we did a miche test with legendary local baker Michael London a few years back, he commented that most home bakers don’t use enough salt. That’s why we recommend you taste your bread dough early in the process of kneading or stretch-and-fold or mixing in the Kitchenaid. The amounts of salt in recipes are hard to measure by weight so we typically dump in about two teaspoons full by eye in a dough of 1500 grams or so, then taste and usually add a little more.

Well, we’ve been enjoying the delicious bread from Hungry Ghost in Northampton MA brought back by frequent travelers to that hamlet, and yesterday we had the opportunity to compare their whole wheat boule against our own bread that had just come out of the oven. And we realized the secret to their bread that makes it come alive on the tongue is…. A whole lot of salt!

Improv Bread

Our own improvised batard is not half bad. But maybe it could use some more salt.

Our own loaf was excellent, and also a one-and-done because it was made with a bunch of orphan ingredients in small amounts we were trying to use up: kamut flour (7% by weight), white rye flour (13%), a handful of millet, freeze dried blueberries and orange-flavored cranberries from Trader Joe’s. It was a wonderful slice spread with butter, but the Hungry Ghost boule held its own with nothing more than water, flour and salt.

It’s scary to just start adding salt because once you’ve oversalted your bread you can’t go back. But I’m now thinking the acceptable salt level is higher than we thought. Try this: for your next bake, divide your dough in half. Salt one portion as you normally do, then add 50% extra to the second loaf. Let us know what happens and what you think. We’ll do the same experiment here and report back.

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Recipe: Kitfo (Ethiopian steak tartare)

Ethiopian Raw Beef Kitfo

Here’s our kitfo after a toss in niter kibbeh. Just a shade removed from raw.

If you like steak tartare you’ll probably enjoy kitfo, a spiced raw meat dish which is traditionally eaten in Ethiopia to break the vegetarian fasting period. As with steak tartare, you need to be confident of the source of the meat and the food safety procedures of your butcher. If you’re more cautious, it’s acceptable to cook it a little or a lot, to the doneness stage of ground beef you’d use in a pasta sauce or sloppy joes. We landed just on the uphill side of raw, with some bits slightly cooked but still risky. Allow ¼ lb per person.

Ingredients:
1 lb coarsely ground beef, fat and connective tissue removed
4 T niter kibbeh (Ethiopian clarified butter)
½ t ground cardamom
½ t cayenne OR 1 t berbere seasoning
1 t salt
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

Method: heat the niter kibbeh to liquid stage; add garlic and spices and heat over low flame until fragrant. Spoon over raw beef and mix lightly. Serve immediately with injera for scooping up the bites. Kitfo is traditionally served with gomen, or seasoned collard greens, and a mild cheese akin to ricotta.

Here is a blog post with a bit more background on kitfo. Be sure to read all the comments!

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Recipe: Injera (Ethiopian steamed flatbread)

Injera Stack

Our injera recipe makes about 8 pancakes, enough to serve four

[3/20: before you begin, see UPDATE at the bottom of this post.] We have long been obsessed with making an injera recipe at home, as evidenced by this thread on The Fresh Loaf started in 2015. We achieved a satisfying texture and taste, but our pancakes lacked the signature holes (they’re so important they have a name, eyen) that soak up the savory products ladled on top. Turns out the secret is to use non-chlorinated (i.e. bottled or purified) water because chlorine has a devasting effect on the yeast that lives symbiotically on teff grains. This injera recipe makes 8 medium pieces, enough to serve four, but you probably want to double it to have some for later. Note that it evolves over several days, and includes a number of “auntie” steps where you will use your judgment rather than relying on specific directions.

Ingredients:
1 c teff flour (ivory or dark) for the starter (ersho)*
Non-chlorinated water for the starter
1 c all purpose flour
½ c teff flour (ivory or dark)*
2 c  non-chlorinated water
½ t ground fenugreek
½ t salt (add this just before cooking)
A large non-stick pan with a lid (preferably glass) for cooking

Method: to make the starter (ersho), add non-chlorinated water to teff flour in a glass jar sufficient to mix into a thick paste. Cover with a towel and rest in a warm dark place until you can see bubbles through the sides of the jar and the surface of the starter is spongy. This will take 2-4 days depending on temperature and the freshness of the teff. (Note to sourdough bakers: we found the teff starter to be much more lively and reactive than a starter made from wheat flour.) Transfer 2 ½ T of this starter to a mixing bowl and save (refrigerate) the starter for your next injera recipe.

Add flours and fenugreek to the mixing bowl, then add water gradually till ingredients are evenly mixed and continue adding the rest of the water; teff doesn’t interact with water like wheat flour so you will end up with a layer of liquid on the top which is okay. Cover with a towel and rest in a dark warm place until bubbles start to form on the surface, about 2 days. (If a bit of mold appears on the surface, just spoon it off and discard.) Pour the liquid off the top into a jar; reserve for cooking the injera. Mix the remaining batter well then transfer ½ c to a non-stick skillet on very low heat. Stir with a spatula till it turns into a rubbery solid, a couple of minutes. Transfer to a plate (or just leave in the skillet) and cool to room temperature. Pour the reserved batter into a blender or food processor; add the rubbery absit; blend until the mixture is smooth without lumps.

Injera Cooking

This injera is just about ready to cover: most the surface is covered with eyen and turning from shiny to dull.

For the final prep, rest the batter until bubbles begin to form on the top. This can take anywhere from 2 hours to a day. Add salt and part of reserved liquid and blend with a whisk until it is the consistency of heavy cream (you may not need all the liquid.) When you think it’s ready, heat a 12-inch non-stick pan to medium heat. Make a test pancake by pouring a little batter into the pan. It should form little craters all over the surface then the appearance of the surface should change from shiny to dull. If this happens, you’re ready to cook your injera. If there are few or no holes, let the batter ferment for a couple of hours or even till the next day.

Injera Assembly Line

Cooked injera cooling on towels

To make your production injera, pour ½ c batter (use a measuring cup) into the skillet then tilt it in all directions till the edges reach the side of the pan. Heat until craters form all over the surface and the appearance changes from shiny to dull; cover and continue to heat 1 minute or more till the edges of the pancake begin to curl up from the pan. (The bottom of the injera should not change color.) Remove cover and flip the pancake out onto a towel; it will be delicate initially but will become more durable and elastic as it cools. Continue until batter is used up. When the injeras are completely cool and dry, transfer them to a plate and put the plate inside a large zip bag unless you are serving them immediately.

To serve, present a flat injera on a plate (hole side up) with various Ethiopian (or other) preparations ladled on top. Typically there will be small amounts (maybe ½ c each) of four different items, each in its own quadrant, and maybe a bit of salad in the middle. Serve the second injera on the side, rolled up or in stacks on a platter. To eat, the diner tears off a piece of the second injera and uses it to pick up the ingredients on the plate, then tears off the injera on the plate plus its ingredients to finish the meal. If you run out of injera for grabbing and don’t have extras, we think it’s okay to use a spoon.

*Teff flour is available on amazon.

UPDATE 3/20: after two excellent batches, we have been unsuccessful at recreating the generous eyen you see in the photos above. We are on track for a solution but not quite there yet. Here are some learnings if you want to follow along:
*The teff starter (ersho) is VERY prone to attracting mold. We’ve taken to pouring a little non-chlorinated water into the storage container, on top of the starter, and this seems to protect it in the same way that the layer of liquid that forms in your bowl of batter keeps it from molding. Or, just allow a couple of extra days to make fresh ersho from scratch since the teff flour is very predictable in its fermentation properties.
*We revisited Kittee Berns’ injera recipe and realizes she does a couple things differently than we did. First, she cook the injera two days after mixing the batter, rather than our longer fermentation. Second, she covers the injera immediately after pouring the batter into the skillet, rather than letting it start cooking as we did.
*Keep in mind that heat activates but then kills yeast, in the same way you get oven spring when you start baking bread. If your skillet is too hot, the yeast may die before forming good eyen. This may be the most important discovery of them all.
*The Ethiopia cookbook has an alternate method of making absit which we (and you) might want to try. In a large saucepan, bring 250ml of water to a boil. Whisk in 125ml of the base batter and 125ml of water. When this mixture begins to thicken and bubble, remove it from the heat. It should have the consistency of cooked porridge. Let it cool to just warm, then follow above instructions for mixing with batter.
*Finally, if you do your very best and end up with injera that’s more like crepes, no holes, don’t despair. They will still taste good and provide a suitable platform for your Ethiopian cooking experiments. Don’t throw them out.

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Revisiting Four Roses Bourbon

Four Four Roses Bourbons

Four Roses bourbon tastes at Saratoga Wine & Food Festival.

Like a lot of people who came of drinking age in the second half of the 20th century, I had a poor impression of Four Roses bourbon. It was an inexpensive blend without much benefit other than its ability to produce a hangover. But it turns out things have changed dramatically since Kirin acquired the brand around the turn of the century.

Four Roses had a tasting booth both days at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. I spent some time with Stephen Schuler, the rep from Proof Positive, talking about his bottles. The low-quality blend has been discontinued and the company now makes four bourbons for U.S. sales from 10 different recipes. The recipes are a mix-and-match of two separate mash bills (the blend in grain used) and 5 different yeast strains.

Four Roses Bourbon 80 blends all 10 recipes in a proprietary formula and rectifies (adds distilled water to control proof) to a final proof of 80. It’s an easy drinking everyday bourbon (I tried it in an old fashioned as well as neat) on a par with my standby, Evan Williams, and light years better than the harsh fusel oils in the blended product of my college days. About $20 at retail.

The Small Batch, 90 proof, blends 4 of the 10 recipes. It starts with a ripe berry note that reminds me of the fruity red wines that were popular a few years back, turns to a mellow nuttiness, and ends with a spicy kick in the back of the throat. High $30s at retail.

The Single Barrel, 100 proof, uses only one recipe (a high rye mash bill and a delicate fruit yeast strain). It has a deeper, more complex flavor profile—Schuler says he can taste notes of toasted caramel, cacao nibs, tobacco, leather. On my first visit to his booth this was the bourbon he poured when he found out I was an Islay drinker; it has the same kind of intensity that makes you sit up and take notice. Low $40s at retail.

The Small Batch Select, 104 proof, is blended with a similar process to the Small Batch using 6 of the 10 recipes. It is non-chill filtered which gives it an appealing syrupy mouthfeel that coat the palate. Schuler finds lots going on with this bourbon: nose of raspberry, clove and nutmeg; apricot, berries, vanilla and light oak in the flavor profile; lingering spearmint finish with a light touch of cinnamon. It’s a bourbon drinker’s bourbon, with layer upon layer of what a bourbon lover loves. Around $80 at retail.

By the way, according to Wikipedia there’s some historical fuzziness about the origin of the Four Roses brand. Some say it was originally distilled by four guys named Rose, which makes sense. But Kirin has a much more romantic story which leaves out the Roses entirely:

It began when Paul Jones, Jr., the founder of Four Roses Bourbon, became smitten by the beauty of a Southern belle. It is said that he sent a proposal to her, and she replied that if her answer were “Yes,” she would wear a corsage of roses on her gown to the upcoming grand ball. Paul Jones waited for her answer excitedly on that night of the grand ball…when she arrived in her beautiful gown, she wore a corsage of four red roses. He later named his Bourbon “Four Roses” as a symbol of his devout passion for the lovely belle, a passion he thereafter transferred to making his beloved Four Roses Bourbon.

However, they call this the “legend” rather than actual historical fact. Something to speculate about while you are enjoying a few sips of Four Roses bourbon.

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Last look at the 2019 Saratoga Wine & Food Festival

Charcuterie Plate

Apps at the VIP portion of the “Forest Magic” dinner, at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival, including pickled fiddleheads.

Last weekend’s “Forest Magic” dinner and Grand Tasting were sold out and everybody supporting SPAC through the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival seemed to be having a grand time. In every way it felt like an elevated experience from previous years, and we look forward to what’s to come in 2020. Here are a few highlights in pictures.

Dining Tent

Getting ready for dinner in the “Forest Magic” tent next to the Reflecting Pool.

Sculpture at Sunset

Sculpture at sunset, on loan from the Hyde Collection.

Porchetta

Porchetta stuffed with sausage, from chefs Michael Blake and Kevin London.

Apps on Tray

Passed apps during the “Forest Magic” happy hour.

Lardo Toasts

Oregano-infused lardo… the most decadent delight of the evening.

Forest Magic Second Course

The three-course Forest Magic dinner may have been the only misfire of the weekend. There were three courses, each a collaboration between two chefs, and the first two featured corn. More coordination and maybe solo presentations might work better in the future.

Inside the VIP tent at the Saturday Grand Tasting.

Kolonien

Kolonien, a zydeco-infused band from Sweden, sponsored by Caffé Lena.

Hamlet Ghost Mezcal

Single-origin mezcal cocktails from Hamlet & Ghost.

Siros Platter

The most generous offering at the Saturday Grand Tasting may have been this platter of spit-roasted beef tenderloin and rack of lamb plus olives and tomatoes in agrodolce, from Siro’s. The bees loved it, and so did we.

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