Recipe: Tex-Mex Tomato Juice Rice

Tomato Juice Rice

Tex Mex Tomato Juice Rice

¡Que rojo! The red color in the rice in your #1 combo comes from tomatoes. I normally dump in a can of Ro-Tel tomatoes with chile but this time I had some leftover tomato juice from gazpacho. Result: Tex-Mex Tomato Juice Rice! This has a really good flavor profile that goes with any food where you want a zesty carb accompaniment. Can be made with quinoa as well for you non-carb folks. Serves 6-8.

Ingredients:
1 c white rice (basmati, jasmine or equivalent)
2 c tomato juice*
1/4 c olive oil
1/2 c chopped onion
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
1/2 t powdered cumin or 3/4 t cumin seed
3/4 t salt**
3/4 t mild chili powder

Method: sauté onion and garlic in oil; add cumin and chili powder and heat till fragrant. Add rice and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, till all grains are well coated. Dump in tomato juice, cover and reduce to simmer. After 10 minutes turn off the heat and allow to steam another 10-20 minutes. Rice is done when all liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender but not squishy. Garnish with chopped cilantro if you like and serve with spicy Tex-Mex food.

*You may need to vary the liquid proportions if you use other types of rice, such as brown rice or Haiga rice.
**Adjust salt depending on the salt content of your tomato juice.

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Recipe: Soft Shell Crab with Caper Butter

Soft Shell Crab in Cornmeal

Ugly to look at, delicious to eat: soft shell crab fried in flour/egg/cornmeal.

Soft shell crabs are blue crabs harvested during molting season. They have a mild crabby flavor and a pleasant crunch; it’s nice to just chomp into a crab instead of fighting the shell to get the flesh out. Here is a simple prep to eat on its own; you could also take the fried crab and stick it in a po’ boy roll. Allow 2 crabs per person; this recipe is for 8 crabs total.

Ingredients:
Soft shell crabs
1 c all purpose flour seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic powder
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 c cornmeal
2 T butter
2 T olive oil

For the optional caper butter:
2 T butter
2 T capers
2 T lemon juice

Method: pat the crabs dry then dredge in seasoned flour, then egg, then cornmeal. Sauté in butter and olive oil over moderate heat until lightly browned; flip over and repeat. Be careful of spatters because the crabs may contain pockets of water which will burst. Drain crabs on paper towel as they are cooked and reserve in a warm oven until serving time.

Soft Shell Crab Caper Butter

Ugly delicious soft shell crab with caper butter

To serve with caper butter after all crabs are cooked, add additional butter, capers and lemon juice to the pan and heat till sizzling; spoon over crabs on a serving plate and serve immediately.

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How to win your crawfish boil

Crawfish Boil

Our crawfish a’boiling. The onions made the prep a bit messy and I’d use onion powder next time.

Live crawfish season runs from roughly March through June, putting the Memorial Day weekend at its epicenter. This makes the holiday an ideal time for a crawfish boil in which the mudbugs are cooked in a salty, peppery broth along with corn ears and potatoes and served up along with beer and music. We had access to some excellent fresh crawdads so tried our own boil this year, then went to the event at a local restaurant for comparison. Here are a few best practices we learned along the way that can help you win your crawfish boil.

  1. Use either live, lively crawdads or stick with frozen. We were lucky to find a freezer chest of big wrigglers at our local Asian market for a bargain $5.99 a pound. We picked them out ourselves and ended up with 24 crawdads totaling a little over 2 pounds. We also found copious evidence that reheating frozen, cooked crawfish is a fine way to go. Boudreaux, the purveyor we met at the Seafood Expo, only ships frozen product. Packages of frozen bugs were locally on offer at a highly respected source, the fish department at Honest Weight Coop. By comparison, the southern mail order companies selling live crawdads are full of disclaimers and many of the reviewers brag about how few dead bugs they received which is faint praise indeed.
  2. Four Inch Crawfish

    Go for crawdads that measure 4 inches from snout to tip of tail.

  3. Choose only big crawfish, 4-inch or longer, and pay extra if you need to. Sucking out the meat isn’t worth the trouble for smaller specimens. Don’t be tempted by sellers who appear to soften the pain of high prices by offering a “field run” of large and small crayfish. The small crawdads contribute to the body count, but add nothing to nutrition and flavor.
  4. Allow about 8 large crawfish per person, which will be well under a pound. You can find some hoo-hah from purveyors about how you need two pounds per person or even more, but the best advice come from the fishmonger at Honest Weight who pointed out eaters will get bored or their fingers will wear out before they have eaten their fill. Even with the big crawfish it’s a lot of effort to get the meat out and the flavor is pleasantly aquatic but mild.
  5. If you have live crawfish, purge them in fresh water until it is clear. This step is essential, but you don’t need to add ice and salt as some experts insist. (Thanks to Cajun Crawfish for this advice.) Crawfish excrete waste through their gills (yuck!) and since they normally live in humid but not underwater environments dumping them into a bucket of water will shock them into purging themselves. Give it a few minutes then pour the water out and repeat the process. Keep doing this till the water is clear, then drain and prepare your boil.
  6. Hatties Crawfish Boil

    Crawdad boil at our local restaurant. Charged as a pound, but I think that includes the potato and corn.

  7. Use a boil with lots of salt, spicy peppers, granulated garlic and maybe onion and perhaps some Old Bay thrown in. That seems to be the formula for the unfortunately-named Slap Ya Mama (the manufacturer says this is a term of endearment that has nothing to do with actual slapping) which is a best seller on Amazon. We could have found a recipe to make our own blend from scratch, but wanted to control the variables for our experiment. Some online home boil experts will tell you to combine 2 or 3 packaged blends but that seems an expensive way to heat up spicy saltwater.
  8. When your water comes to the boil, cook potatoes then add corn and crawdads at the same time. Allow about 4 oz of potatoes (maybe a bit more) and half an ear of corn per person. Cook the potatoes for 10-20 minutes depending on their size (we used unpeeled fingerlings and gave them 15 minutes until they were just beginning to be tender) then add corn and crawdads, bring back to the boil and cook for 7 minutes more. Serve immediately. Note: we also added some sliced onions but those got tangled in the crawfish legs. Better to use onion powder.

That’s it. If you follow the above steps, you win your crawfish boil. Congratulations and happy eating.

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Freezer hoarding

Freezer Hoarding Beef

Freezer hoarding in action: random Certified Angus beef cuts bought on markdown.

My blogger friend Daniel B revealed something remarkable: he has 40 chicken carcasses in his freezer. Talk about freezer hoarding! These are supermarket rotisserie chickens which have been mostly plucked clean of their meat but with some scraps and connective tissue left as well as the flavor and nutrition in the bones. He’s moving out of state and is looking for a soup kitchen or dedicated stock maker to take the lot. If you are interested, contact him at the link above.

Small Freezer Hoarding

This is our small auxiliary freezer below the fridge. It would be ample for most families.

I will be the first to say I am also guilty of freezer hoarding. We have a good size bottom freezer in our main fridge and a dedicated freezer in the basement. We buy a half pig every year which takes up one shelf in the big freezer. Various frozen produce takes up a second shelf…. including a lifetime supply of sour cherries from the tree in our yard. The rest is chaos, and mostly my fault. My freezer hoarding includes:

  • One or more whole USDA Prime briskets purchased on sale on trips to H.E.B. Market in Austin…. Because how could you not? The TSA people recognize the profile of the frozen brisket in the x-ray of your carry-on and wave you through the security line.
  • A whole pig belly (with skin on) marked for porchetta, plus five pounds of uncooked tripe for the pickled tripe experiment I promised nearly two years ago. There is also a pig’s foot in case the tripe needs more collagen to jell.
  • Any number of packages of Certified Angus beef I buy marked down at Price Chopper because they are past their sell-by date. Typically there are half a dozen packages of short ribs I will accumulate and then throw in the instant pot, and several steaks.
  • Multiple sacks of shrimp shells where I peeled the shrimp, then saved the shell for a future stock. As well as several sacks of coriander roots (for Thai seasonings) and curry leaves and Kaffir lime leaves (which we’re not supposed to call that any more) and lots of bacon and the last couple sacks of my Benton ham.

What’s not in the freezer are things nutritionists advise you to put there to keep them in optimal condition, like coffee beans and spices. I don’t disagree, but there’s simply no room.

Part of the problem is that some of my most reliable consumption devices, i.e. teenagers, are absent at school or other activities. Sure, I could make up a whole porchetta, but then that turns into refrigerator hoarding.

Does anybody else want to come forward about their own refrigerator hoarding? Maybe we could combine your frozen pastry shells and my frozen cherries and make a pie!

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Food for Thought: Alison Roman’s Dining In

Even though I am a huge fan of Alison Roman’s recipes in the New York Times, I resisted buying her cookbook,  Dining In. Why? Because her salty kitchen essentials, the first items in the book, were all head nodders, things that are already in my pantry at all times: anchovies, capers, fish sauce, kosher salt, parmesan, olives, preserved lemon… well, actually not that last one, so I read on. And found many of the recipes are like what I throw together when I have ingredients and want to combine them in a tasty way.

But…. She’s got a recipe for “Crunchy Chili Oil” which is like Chili Crisp, but without the picture of the Grumpy Housewife on the label. (By the way, the original Grumpy Cat died last week… but I digress.) And makes her own Zata’ar. And her own Everything Bagel seasoning mixture. Interesting.

But what finally sold me on Dining In was her Crispy Chicken Legs recipe in which she comfits the legs in a bath of olive oil then uses the leftover oil, now flavored with chicken fat and herbs, to make other recipes. Yes, you could do the same thing but you haven’t, right? Check it out.

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Eating habits

Too Much Sushi

Eating these last few pieces of AYCE sushi was a real slog. Could it be my eating habits have changed?

When I was a kid, I had a health science teacher who told us our eating habits change every seven years. While I no longer hunger for Lik-M-Aid and cinnamon toothpicks, I have always regarded that lesson as fake science. But recently I’ve begun to wonder.

Specifically, this week I have been on my own at dinner time so I made a plan to hit the various Saratoga Springs dining establishments at happy hour. Monday started according to plan. I sat at the bar at Hamlet & Ghost with my Yelp friend Eric T, and we passed two hours watching the master bartenders make drinks with garnish held together with tiny clothespins. However, I found myself unexcited about ordering from the happy hour menu (other than a dozen dollar oysters, of course) and ended up eating a frozen pizza at home.

Tuesday was an off day but Wednesday was set: I would visit Morrissey’s for their half-off Wednesday sushi. If their online menu was correct, I would be eating uni for $2 per piece! But I was really enjoying watching an outlaw country music video (Heartworn Highways Revisited: check it out, as well as its predecessor Heartworn Highways) and I knew how that sushi would taste and decided I would have more fun staying home and eating leftovers. So I did.

Today, Thursday, I planned to visit the Mercantile on Broadway to see if was really true, per various Yelpers, that the food had gone downhill. So I was looking forward to a disappointing meal, and that didn’t sound like much fun. I parked on Putnam and passed by Wasabi, an AYCE place with passable sushi for $15 at lunch, and realized I could satisfy my sushi craving (sans uni, but with a lot of other stuff) for no more than I would have paid at Morrisseys. So I did. Ordered so much that I was warned for the first time that I would be charged for uneaten food. I finished it, but the last few pieces were a slog and I’m shot for eating dinner.

I don’t know if my eating habits have changed, but I do see a trend here. If I’m out with a friend, or in the neighborhood anyway, I’ll hit a favorite restaurant or try something new. Otherwise, I’m more likely to just stay at home. Fortunately, I have a freezer full of tripe, brisket and other treats so I’m not likely to starve.

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How to cook a perfect steak

To cook a perfect steak, start with a well-seasoned cast iron skillet. I have decided I prefer this method because the delicious juices accumulate in the pan rather than dripping into the fire. You can use anything that doesn’t require marinating–New York strip, ribeye, filet mignon etc.*

Cook a Perfect Steak

Heat a cast iron skillet very hot, then sprinkle it generously with salt.

Start by heating the empty skillet on a burner set to high. Unless you have a high-BTU professional grade stove you really can’t get it too hot. My burners are 15,000 BTU and I let it heat five minutes, easy.

While the skillet is heating, sprinkle some Kosher salt all around its surface. This will serve as a cushion for the meat. Don’t be shy: mine is a 12-inch skillet and I used maybe ¾ teaspoon.

Cook a Perfect Steak

Drop in the meat, then season the top side to your preference.

Now, drop in the meat. It should sizzle nicely when it hits the hot iron. If it doesn’t, you didn’t heat the pan enough. Not a problem, the other surface will be fine and you can use that for presentation. If the meat practically explodes when it hits, you’ve managed to get the skillet too hot. Good job; now turn it down a bit.

The Hand Test

The hand test: surface of the meat should feel like the heel of your hand.

While the first side is cooking, sprinkle on some seasoning. It’s already salted so sometimes I just grind a little pepper. Or I’ll use a combination of my Burger House seasoning and Cavendar’s Greek Seasoning.

Let the first side cook maybe 4 minutes, then flip it over. The surface should feel like the heel of your hand: tough on top, yielding underneath. You want both sides of the steak to feel like that so let the second side get good and crisp. If it’s a thin steak, it’s now done. For an inch-thick New York strip like this one, you might want to flip it one additional time. Now (after the steak has been in the skillet a total of 6-7 minutes) turn off the heat. It will continue to cook, but more slowly.

Cook a Perfect Steak

Let the steak rest a bit, then use a meat thermometer inserted from the side to confirm doneness.

Transfer the steak to a plate and let it rest a couple of minutes. Because we want to cook a perfect steak, we will cheat and use a meat thermometer to confirm doneness. This one is 118 degrees which, the beef people tell us, should be somewhere between rare and medium rare.

And when we slice it, that’s exactly what it is. There you have it, the best way to cook a perfect steak. Let it rest for a few more minutes which will produce some juicy juices you can sop up with potato or some crusty bread. Enjoy.

*Update: last night I used the same technique, with modifications, to cook a tri-tip that had been marinated in olive oil, finely chopped garlic and soy, worcestershire** and fish sauces with pepper but no salt. Salted the empty skillet then slapped the steak right down, without draining. At the end, I poured in the marinade to sizzle and add to the pan juices. Delicious.

Perfect Steak

Walla, that is how you cook a perfect steak.

**Do you know how to pronounce this word? It’s not “Wooster” as my mother taught me. For a very detailed answer, watch this video.

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Recipe: Josey Baker Seed Bread

Josey Baker Seed Bread

Josey Baker Seed Bread

Josey Baker calls his Seed Bread “Seed Feast” but I’ve retitled it because of some changes in the recipe. This was the first of his loaves I tasted and and it exploded from flavor from the crumb, the sour and the toasted seeds. He told me he reuses all his bits and pieces of leftover starter for the next day’s bread and I suspect that is the source of his preferment. Makes two 2-lb loaves.

Ingredients, for the preferment:
125 g refreshed sourdough starter at 60%
185 g cool water (approximate, added in stages)
170 g whole wheat flour (or substitute other flours and adjust hydration per directions below)

For the seed mix:
160 g raw pumpkin seeds
110 g raw flax seeds (brown or gold)
110 g raw sunflower seeds
360 g/1 ½ c (approx) hot water

For the final dough:
750 g all purpose flour
480 g warm water
24 g Kosher salt (about 1 ½ T)
2 T olive oil

Method: mix the preferment 8-12 hours before you plan to start the bread. Add half the water to a bowl and stir to distribute the starter, then add the rest of the flour and gradually add water, stirring, till the preferment reaches the consistency of thick pancake batter. If you’re not using whole grain flour you may not need all the water. Cover and set aside in a warm place to work until bubbles appear.

Seeds for Seed Bread

Seeds for Seed Bread, after toasting

At the same time, prepare the seeds. Toast the seeds in a 350 degree oven for 15 minutes or until lightly toasted, frequently turning with a spoon and/or rotating the tray in the oven so they don’t burn. Pour into a bowl then add very hot water to cover, approximately 1 1/2 cup.

When preferment is ready, mix in water and flour for final dough. Allow to autolyse 30 minutes then drain the seeds and add them to the dough along with the salt. Knead until you get good gluten development, 8 or so minutes of hand kneading or equivalent in rotary mixer, or 5 sequences of stretch and folds at 15 minute intervals. (Instructions for stretch-and-fold and other dough handling techniques can be found in this recipe.) The dough should be pretty flaccid but not so liquid it sticks to your hands or the sides of the mixing bowl; add some more flour as you go if necessary.

Seed Bread Crumb

Seed Bread Crumb

After kneading, pour olive oil over the dough in a bowl and turn so it coats all surfaces. Cover and rise 4 hours or until noticeably risen. Shape into two balls, rest 20 minutes, then shape into boules or batards and proof in floured bannetons or equivalent until noticeably risen, about 2 hours.

20 minutes before you plan to bake, preheat two dutch ovens in a 500 degree oven. Remove the pans from the oven (carefully, using good pot holders, so you don’t get burned) and transfer to a heat-proof surface like a trivet on your counter. Shake a little polenta or cornmeal into the bottom of the pans then flip in the loaves from the bannetons. Score tops of loaves with a sharp knife. Cover, return to oven and reduce heat to 475 degrees. Bake 20 minutes to steam the loaves, then remove lids and bake 25 minutes uncovered, or until nicely browned with an internal temperature of 206 degrees. Turn out on a wire rack and allow to cool at least 2 hours before slicing.

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How to present a pickle plate

Pickle Plate

My pickle plate (would eliminate either the green beans or asparagus, both at bottom, next time)

It irks me that places are charging $4 or so for a “pickle plate” the size of a saucer with 3 or 4 choices. I would rather go to Tommy’s Joynt in San Francisco, where there is a pickle jar on the counter and you can curdle your stomach to your heart’s content. But the good news is, the current trend gives you license to serve up a pickle plate to your guests with a straight face and even, if there are some bonus proteins and carbs included, call it lunch.

Pickle Plate Lunch

Pickle plate with bread and cheese = lunch

“Pickles” can refer both to lacto fermented vegetables and to items which do not have their chemical composition changed, but are preserved in a vinegar brine. I would serve both of these on a pickle plate. The example shown here has two lacto ferments, the green beans and the asparagus. (They are oddly similar in taste after the fermentation, but not quite the same, so I would serve on or the other next time.) Add to this a pickled egg (there’s your protein) and some beets and onions from Jake’s grandmother’s recipe. I also included some cauliflower chunks that were macerating in leftover pickle juice from Pucker’s, a local brand.

If I had them I might have included some sweetened bread-and-butter pickles or some spicy giardinara. I would not have added Sichuan Pickled Vegetables which are complex enough they need to be enjoyed on their own, or in the context of a bowl of jook or medley of Sichuan dishes.

As it is, I added a piece of toasted Olive Bread with Rye Starter that had been spread with some Stilton from Trader Joe’s. There you go, here’s your lunch.

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Recipe: Fennel Braised Pork Chops

Fennel Braised Pork Chops

Fennel Braised Pork Chops: expect some nice caramelization from the brown sugar

A tweak of the recipe in Alison Roman’s Dining In. Fennel Braised Pork Chops are sweet/sour/crunchy on the outside and throw off a wonderful liquid which you can use to prepare some accompanying greens. Serves 2 with very large portions or 3-4 if you are prepared to partition the chops before serving.

Ingredients:
2 pork loin chops, cut at least 1-inch thick (about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ pound total)
1 T fennel seeds
1 T brown sugar
2 t Kosher salt
½ t freshly ground black pepper
1 T extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced
1 t lemon juice
4 c or so braising greens, ideally including half a fennel bulb

Method: toast fennel seeds in a skillet without burning for about 4 minutes, till they are very aromatic. Cool slightly then grind with a mortar and pestle; the toasted fennel should disintegrate into a coarse powder. Mix with brown sugar, salt and pepper and rub on all sides (including the edges) of two large pork chops. Brine for an hour or so until the chops give off a good amount of liquid.

Fennel Chops Brining

Fennel Braised Pork Chops in their brine

Heat a cast iron pan till very hot; add the olive oil then the pork chops and sear both sides. They will be blackened quickly because of the sugar in the marinade but don’t let them burn. Lower the heat to medium and cook, turning frequently, till the center reaches 140 degrees F as measured on a meat thermometer. Reserve the chops and add garlic and fennel (thinly sliced in the long direction) to the delicious pan juices and cook until caramelized, 4 minutes or so. Add braising greens and cover; steam a couple of minutes then add lemon juice. Return pork chops to the pan and cover, heat to serving temperature and bring to table (with appropriate safety measures) in the sizzling cast iron pan.

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