Recipe: Thai Beef Salad with Mint

Thai Beef Salad with Mint

Thai Beef Salad with Mint

When your garden is overflowing with mint, it’s time to make Thai Beef Salad with Mint. There are many variations of this recipe; we were mostly inspired by this from Andy Ricker, of the pan-South Asian Pok Pok in Portland. Serves 4-6 appetizer portions.

Ingredients:
1 lb flank steak, New York strip or other steak with a grain (we used flap meat)
¼ c cilantro root (use cilantro stems as a substitute if necessary)
3 large garlic cloves, about 1 ½ T
½ t ground white pepper
1 T soy sauce
1 T vegetable oil
½ c mint leaves, removed from stems and coarsely chopped*
¼ c cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped*
¼ c shallot or red onion, sliced thin
Half a serrano chile or one small birds eye chile, finely chopped, or 1 t crushed red pepper (you want to give it just a little kick vs spicy-hot)
3 t lime juice
2 t fish sauce
½ t sugar
¾ t Kosher salt
1 t rice powder (optional)**

Method: pulverize cilantro root and garlic in a food mill; mix in pepper, oil and soy sauce. Rub this marinade all over the steak; poke some holes so it will really penetrate if you like. Refrigerate at least 4 hours, then grill over high heat till the steak is well browned on the outside but still rare to medium rare on the inside, about 3-4 minutes per side. Cool the steak in a bowl that will collect its juices then slice thin across the grain into 3-inch strips.

Combine fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, salt and reserved meat juices in a skillet and heat slightly; add shallot and chilis and heat until aromatic. Add remaining ingredients and toss lightly till the mint is wilted and the meat is heated through. Serve warm, over rice or shredded cabbage.

*Or use ¾ c of all mint leaves or all cilantro.

Rice Powder

Rice Powder

**Folks who have tasted this dish in Thailand insist that rice powder is essential to complete the flavor. It adds a crunch and nuttiness and the smaller bits will thicken the sauce slightly. To make rice powder, heat 2 T raw glutinous rice (“sticky rice”) in a wok at low temperature, stirring frequently, till the grains are uniformly golden brown (about 10 minutes). Cool in wok off the heat then grind in a spice mill or with mortar and pestle to a coarse powder.

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Recipe: Sichuan Cucumber Salad

Sichuan Cucumber Salad

Sichuan Cucumber Salad

If you have a well-stocked Sichuan pantry you already have the two key ingredients for Sichuan Cucumber Salad: sichuan peppercorns and mild dried red chilis. Even though it earns the sobriquet “Mala” which means “hot and numbing” in Mandarin, this is actually a cool and refreshing salad which goes well with an assortment of hot and cold dishes perhaps for a summer picnic. 4 appetizer portions.

Ingredients:
1 whole cucumber
½ t Kosher salt
2 t neutral oil
¾ t Sichuan peppercorns
8 or so dried Sichuan red chilis
1 t toasted sesame oil

Method: peel the cucumber if it has thick waxy skin; otherwise leave skin on. Cut in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds and pulp; discard. Cut each half into thirds then cut lengthwise into batons approximately the dimensions of French fries. Mix thoroughly with salt and rest at least 30 minutes.

Wash off salt in a colander and dry the cucumber pieces with a paper towel. Lightly crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle. Cut dried chiles into thirds with scissors and discard any seeds that fall out.

Heat the oil in a medium-hot wok and add peppercorns and dried chiles; heat about a minute until they become fragrant. Add cucumber and toss with oil until warm and thoroughly coated, no more than a minute. Transfer to a serving dish and toss with sesame oil. Chill until ready to serve cold.

Note: no substitutions available. If you don’t have the two key ingredients, get them before you try the recipe. Do NOT replace Sichuan peppercorns with regular black peppercorns, or mild Sichuan chilis with much hotter American chilis.

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My Quarantine with Trader Joe

Trader Joe Roquefort

Quarantine with Trader Joe: Society 1863 Roquefort is a steal at $12/lb, compared to other aged bleus.

There were fewer dining-out options than usual during my trip to San Francisco last week, causing me to stock up for quarantine with Trader Joe. Tried a number of new products with some hits and a few surprising disappointments.

Trader Joe Egg Rolls

These egg rolls were fine; other TJ’s frozen entrees, not so much.

Let’s get the disappointments out of the way first. Mandarin Orange Chicken, consistently high-rated in surveys, was some breaded tenders with way too much of a gloppy sweet sauce. Thai Eggplant had heat and Thai basil but still a very unbalanced flavor profile. Coconut Shrimp was just breaded shrimp, couldn’t taste the coconut. All of these required an unusual amount of oven-tending; the Trader needs to find a way to streamline preparation. Spring Rolls were okay (heated these in a wok) and I know from previous experience that Soup Dumplings are also passable though with too-thick skins.

What is a winner? Societé 1863 Roquefort at $12 a pound. I normally get the $8/lb generic blue cheese and crumble it on salad, but the upcharge provided a spreadable, mature product that holds its own against much more expensive bleus. Paired these with Trader Joe’s Multigrain Crackers, a simple but cheap and well balanced choice.

For breakfast, you could not do better than to buy a quart of French-Style Whole Cream Yogurt (think that’s the name; TJ does not catalog its products online) and mix it with purchased fresh strawberries and blueberries. A quart of the yogurt is just $4 and I paired it with coconut granola, also $4 for 12 oz.

Trader Joe Value Products

Lots of good value on quality products like $4 coffee and granola for 12 oz

Many of the things I am happy to buy from Trader Joe are quality generic products which seem to be priced significantly lower than brand-name equivalents. $2 for a 14-oz tin of hearts of palm; $4 for 12 oz of good dark coffee in addition to the granola and the yogurt.

And, let us not forget the treats! Coffee Lovers Espresso Beans are 99 cents for a package which is more than enough for one serving, not enough for two, what to do? Cheese Bites have been established by our testing to be a good value as well as good. We always buy a couple packs of truffle-flavored Marcoma almonds. And this time a new item, Pickle Popcorn! If you like pickle-flavored potato chips you will like this, though the fat and sugar in the kettle corn formula mute its impact somewhat.

Trader Joe Espresso Coffee Beans

Trader Joe Espresso Coffee Beans! I dare you to eat just half the package, which supposedly contains two servings.

Trader Joe’s also seems like one of the safest places to shop during the pandemic. At the locations I’ve visited on both coasts they are diligent about avoiding crowding in the stores, making sure everyone has a mask and wiping down each cart before you receive it. If I had to choose one store for the duration this would be it, and it’s good they are able to keep me well fed with variety and value.

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My $46 takeout meal from Benu

Benu Cornish Hen

This Cornish Hen with accompaniments was the highlight of my $46 takeout meal from Benu. It looked so good in the microwave-safe container, I just served it in situ.

As I planned a quick trip to San Francisco (with maximum safety precautions), I set my eye on the $46 takeout meal from Benu. People in San Francisco don’t mind paying for fine food, and in sit-down times Benu offers a $325 tasting menu so $46 for takeout would seem a relative bargain. (The takeout menu isn’t the same but a preview of San Ho Wan, a Korean place chef Corey Lee plans to open in the Mission.)

Here’s what I got for my $46—which swelled to $60 when tax and mandatory 20% service charge were added:

Soy-Braised Cornish Hen with Sweet Potato, Mushroom, Peppers
Chicken and Fresh Ginseng Soup, Chonggkak Kimchi
Short Grain Rice Cooked in Chicken Broth and Drippings
Squid and Cucumber Salad with Chojang Sauce
Stuffed Summer Squash Jeon
Strawberry Roll Cake with Lightly Whipped Cream

Benu Takeout Package

The meal was packaged in many takeout containers with a card that offered heating and serving suggestions and descriptions of some of the less familiar items. Although the instructions were to “reheat the chicken and vegetables in a pot”, I couldn’t bring myself to take them out of the microwave-safe container where they were beautifully presented and I would guess most diners would feel the same way, though they might slide a fine china plate under the plastic.

Benu Salad Jeon

Benu squid salad and stuffed summer squash

The instructions were to eat the salad and Jeon (the Korean equivalent of tempura) first, together, with one sauce on the salad and the other used for dipping the jeon which had I think slices of small radishes as their stuffing. I have enjoyed a lot of Korean food in the U.S. and recognized the familiar flavor profiles of sesame oil, mild red pepper (gochugaru) and shiso (called perilla in Korean recipes); upscale dining means better quality ingredients rather than a dramatic departure in the recipes and that’s what I found here. I knew immediately I was in for a pleasurable dining experience.

Benu Kimchi

“Ponytail” kimchi made from young spring radishes

The soup and the chicken-infused rice were comfort food, perfect accompaniments to the Cornish hen and its sauce. The kimchi was a treat; the legend explained it’s made from an elongated radish that has the shape of a ponytail. Chonggak means bachelor and refers to the ponytails worn by bachelors in olden times.

Benu Desset

Benu Strawberry Roll dessert in whipped cream

If you were looking for something to criticize, you might go for the whipped cream under this delightful strawberry sponge roll. It had just begun to separate when I tucked into it an hour after picking up my to-go order. But I was in too good a mood to complain. Sitting by myself at my dining table in a hotel room and not particularly drawing it out, it took a good 30 minutes to go through it all.

You can pay a lot more than this for a takeout meal in San Francisco in COVID times. Saison, a Michelin-starred BBQ place, offers a $75 combo platter though I think it could serve two from the description. Wako on Clement St offers a $100 omakaze platter. But you can also pay a whole lot less.

King Thai Noodle Takeout

Beef stew takeout from King’s Thai Noodle #1 on Clement, with noodles packaged separately so they don’t get soggy

I went to King Thai Noodle #1, my favorite place on Clement St, and ordered my regular to go: #3 beef stew with flat noodles and super spicy chile sauce with fish sauce, the stuff they don’t put on the tables because it can ruin your meal if you don’t know how to use it. The meal came packaged with the broth and meat in one container, the noodles and vegetables in another so they wouldn’t get soggy, and individual containers of jalapeños in vinegar and sriracha as well as the deadly stuff. Carefully reheated, it was as good as eating in the restaurant and it was only $11 plus tax.

An added bonus in exploring these San Francisco places is that parking is currently 50 cents an hour, down from demand-based pricing of $10 or more with punitive fines if you overstay by a minute or two. That will change when we’re back to business at usual at some point, but for right now there are rewards for adapting to this new world order.

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Recipe: Daddy Burgers

Daddy Burger

Daddy Burger, with recommended condiments

When we make burgers in the Burnt My Fingers household, we make Daddy Burgers. Enjoyed by over two generations. The ingredient list is fixed but the proportions are approximate; vary to suit your taste. (As written, the recipe is conservative with the mix-ins; we generally add more salt, onion, Worcestershire and pepper.) When you’re done the raw product should taste so good you want to eat it uncooked, like steak tartare. Makes 4 daddy burgers.

Ingredients:
1 lb ground beef: chuck, 85% from supermarket or your own grind
1/3 c dried minced onions, reconstituted with 1/3 c water or beer
1 ½ T Worcestershire sauce
¾ t Kosher salt
½ t ground black pepper
Recommended condiments:
Sharp cheddar cheese, melted on top
Yellow mustard
Texas-style barbecue sauce
Raw sweet onion, sliced
Sliced dill pickle

Daddy Burger Raw

Daddy Burger, before cooking

Method: mix raw ingredients by hand; taste for seasoning. Shape into ¼ pound patties and grill or griddle to your liking, perhaps with melted cheese on top. Serve with Whole Shabang Potato Chips or equivalent and one of our many coleslaw recipes.

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Chilling and Grilling for Father’s Day

Father's Day Gril

Grilling for Father’s Day… some suggestions

We did our grilling for Father’s Day a few days early because of some planned travel. The results were good, so we’re passing them along. The numbers refer to the keys on the photo above.

1.The basic plan: we took some nice asparagus spears and sliced red bell pepper and marinated them briefly in olive oil flavored with herbes de Provence, salt and pepper. Asparagus and sliced peppers are great for grilling because they cook quickly and it enhances the flavor if they pick up a bit of char.

After the vegetables went into the grill basket, we used the oil to coat some fancy grass-fed strip steaks from Healthy Living Market. This wasn’t for flavor so much as so they wouldn’t stick on the grill.

2.Want to get those cross-hatched grill marks you see in steakhouses? After the meat has been on the grill a couple of minutes, test it with tongs and see if you can pick it up without sticking. Once the steak releases, rotate it just a few degrees and continue cooking on that side till you’re ready to flip. Don’t wait and try to get grill marks on the other side because the meat will be too well-cooked to respond.

Steak Cross Section

Father’s Day steak came out rare-to-medium-rare as requested.

3.See the drops of brownish liquid here and there on the plate? These are steak juices and give you a clue as to how your steak will look when you cut into it. If there’s a pool of blood-red liquid the steak is still too rare and needs more grilling time. No juice at all means it’s over done. Just a little liquid will tell you it’s medium rare.

4.If you don’t have a grilling basket for your vegetables, get one, Here is one of several sold on Amazon which we recommend because it has a dark porcelain coating. Benefit: it heats faster and doesn’t look gross after it’s been used a few times as stainless steel would. Ours came from Pier One, as I recall, and it’s been used dozens of times and is good as new.

Happy Father’s Day in the Year of the Pandemic. And don’t forget to socially distance while you’re hanging around the grill!

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Recipe: Healthy Cole Slaw

Healthy Cole Slaw

Healthy Cole Slaw

All coleslaw is healthy cole slaw because of its cancer-preventing, COVID-fighting properties, but this recipe gets an extra boost by using yogurt rather than mayo or oil as the main creamy element. An excellent sweet/sour balance is achieved through a larger than usual dose of salt. From a recipe by dietitian Ellie Krieger, who also proposes the inclusion of caraway seeds which you can try if you like. Makes 8 servings.

Ingredients:
1 medium or ½ large head green cabbage, shredded
¼ c red onion or sweet yellow onion, sliced thin
1 medium carrot, shredded
½ c whole fat plain Greek yogurt
¼ c mayonnaise
1 T honey
3 T cider vinegar
1 t Kosher salt*
¼ t ground black pepper

Method: in a large bowl, dissolve honey in vinegar and add salt and pepper. Add yogurt and mayo and whisk until thoroughly combined. Add shredded cabbage, carrot and onion and mix well. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes before serving.

*You might want to start with ¾ t salt then add a little more after the coleslaw has cured to develop flavor.

P.S. Do you think we are too obsessed with coleslaw here on Burnt My Fingers? Then check out the most recent comment on the Vincent’s Cole Slaw post. The grandson of the original Vincent checked in to comment! That’s like Neil Young stopping by to jam with your local garage band!

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Recipe: Xinjiang Cumin Lamb

Xinjiang Cumin Lamb

Xinjiang Cumin Lamb

Xinjiang Cumin Lamb comes from the Uygur region in northwest China, but in the U.S. it’s found most often in Sichuan restaurants. With my favorite place closed due to COVID-19, I tried to replicate it by tweaking an excellent recipe from Omnivore’s Cookbook: lots more onions, and whole toasted cumin seed instead of ground. Now the restaurant’s open again, and I’m surprised to find I like our version more than the original. Serves four as part of a combination meal with rice.

Ingredients:
1 lb leg of lamb, cut into bite size strips approximately 2 x 1 x ½ inches
1 T dark soy sauce
1 T Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
½ t Kosher salt
¼ c cornstarch
For the spice mix:
2 T cumin seeds
2 t Sichuan chili flakes*
½ t Sichuan peppercorns
For the stir fry:
½ c neutral oil
¼ c dried Chinese chili peppers, cut into thirds with scissors*
1 large onion (approximately 1 ½ c), peeled and sliced
1 T grated ginger
6 cloves garlic, chopped

Method: combine lamb, soy sauce, wine and salt and marinate at least 30 minutes and as long as overnight. Grind the Sichuan peppercorns fine and add them to a small skillet with cumin and chili flakes; heat until fragrant and reserve.

After marinating lamb, drain liquid and toss in cornstarch until evenly coated. Heat oil in a wok and stir fry the lamb in two batches, turning it quickly so the exterior is crispy but the inside is rare. Reserve. Drain about half the oil and add chili peppers, onion, ginger and garlic. Stir fry for about a minute until the onions are just beginning to wilt. Add lamb pieces and spice mix and toss while heating for 30 seconds or so. Serve hot over rice.

*Chinese chili flakes and whole dried chilis may look like similar American ingredients but they have much less heat. Do make the effort to get the real thing, at an Asian market or on Amazon (those are affiliate links). If you have to use American chilis reduce the quantity drastically; the dish will still be good but less complex.

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The end of Takeout 2.0?

Blue Hen Spiedies Takeout

Takeout 2.0: Blue Hen Spiedies meal for one, as it came out of the bag

On March 26 we wrote about Takeout 2.0—the new phenomenon in which fine dining restaurants were shifting to takeout to stay in business during the darkest days of the COVID-19 pandemic. Now, many of the restrictions are easing. In my home town of Saratoga Springs, NY outdoor dining is now allowed with safety measures and restaurants will open their doors to diners next week if all goes well. Some of the most innovative takeout meals will probably be discontinued, which is fine with me because they’re not a sustainable economic model.

Several of my favorite takeout 2.0 experiences have been through the Adelphi Hotel group of restaurants—the Salt & Char steakhouse, fine dining at The Blue Hen and upscale sushi at Morrissey’s. A three-course meal at one of these places in normal times would easily run $50-75 per person, but they’ve been selling a rotating menu of takeout specials for $15 and $20 for a three-course meal.

Blue Hen Spiedies Plated

As plated, with some cole slaw from home and additional spiedies sauce

Last night Blue Hen offered this for $15: SWEET POTATO TOTS with chili honey · PORK SPIEDIES on a butter-toasted hoagie roll · KEY LIME TARTS. Being a big fan of spiedies, a grilled specialty of the city of Binghamton NY which we’ve investigated in the past, I could not pass it up. The bun could not have been better but the spiedies as I anticipated were not juicy enough; fortunately I had some State Fair Spiedies Sauce left over from earlier experiments to correct the saucing.

Blue Hen was really on a roll the week of Memorial day, offering · SPRING “PANZANELLA” with asparagus, onions, favas, jalapeño cornbread · SMOKED BRISKET with texas style bbq sauce · MIXED BERRY VOUL-AU-VENTS on Monday May 25 followed by FRIED CALAMARI with green curry remoulade · HERB ROASTED HALF CHICKEN with crushed & crispy potatoes · CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH CUPCAKES on May 26. Each of these meals is accompanied by a sommelier recommendation that generally costs far more than the food itself. Salt & Char tends to stick closer to its protein base, but last week diners were tempted by Arugula, Radish, Tangerine Salad • “Fish & Chips” fried cod, crispy artichokes, truffle potato chips, caper aioli • Blueberry Peach Cobbler at $15.

I haven’t talked to the kitchen about the strategy behind these menus, but my guess it’s a way to keep the cooks involved at a time when their income has taken a hit. It’s been a great ride. In a couple of weeks, COVID permitting, I’ll be in San Francisco. There, restaurants can’t open for outdoor dining till July 15 so I’ve been investigating the fine dining scene along with verifying that my favorite places like Wing Lee Dim Sum and King’s Thai Cuisine are open for takeout with their regular menu. (They are.) Even with limitations, many of the fine dining places have menus butting up against $100 per person and sell out well in advance. But I’ll go out of my way to get the tasting menu at Benu, which is operating as a test kitchen for a Korean restaurant to open in the Mission in the near future.

Currently (through June 15) Benu is offering Soy-Braised Cornish Hen with Sweet Potato, Mushroom, Peppers; Chicken and Fresh Ginseng Soup, Chonggak Kimchi; Short Grain Rice Cooked in Chicken Broth and Drippings; Squid and Cucumber Salad with Chojang Sauce; Stuffed Summer Squash Jeon; Strawberry Roll Cake with Lightly Whipped Cream all for $46 per person.

I’ll be renting a car to avoid public transportation, so will swing by and pick up my meal on the way from the airport. Already getting hungry.

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Cure COVID with cabbage?

Asian Slaw

Can you cure COVID with cabbage? I dunno, but this impromptu Asian slaw came out pretty good.

The other day I needed something healthy and crunchy to go with the last of my Instant Pot Thai Roast Pork. So I pulled a half head of cabbage out of the refrigerator, shredded it on the coarsest side of the box grater, added a little ginger and garlic, some chopped jalapeños for heat and carrots for color, then mixed up a dressing with 1 T cider vinegar (couldn’t find the rice vinegar), 1 T fish sauce, 1 T toasted sesame oil, 2 T neutral oil and salt and white pepper to taste. It was delicious and would have been even better if I could have let it mellow a couple of hours but one of my quarantine cohorts had eaten it by then.

A couple days earlier I was cooking Chinese and made some Hand-Torn Sichuan Cabbage with the first half of that head. I should add that these dishes provide almost instant satisfaction through their ease of preparation, though in most cases they get better with age. And have I mentioned sauerkraut?

My point is this. You’ve got enough on your plate to also have to worry about salad greens wilting or not getting enough roughage in your diet. Just eat cabbage with every meal!

As we mentioned way back in 2012, cabbage is a miracle foodstuff in its versatility and adaptability. “Here is a vegetable that is cheap, available everywhere year round, and prevents cancer. What more could you want, for God’s sake? You don’t even have to wash it; just peel away the top layer and you’re good to go.” Can you cure COVID with cabbage? I don’t see why not.

Over the years our love of cabbage has only grown more profound, as you can discover by doing a search for “cabbage” and “cole slaw” in the sidebar. We like to stock up at St. Patrick’s day when it’s on sale, and a head will be good for a couple of months once you remove the outer leaves, but even at a regular price of a buck a pound or so it’s far more economical than salad greens.

We’ll close with the analogy to the friendly character called the Schmoo, in the classic L’il Abner comic strip, which we cited in the earlier post. To quote Wikipedia, “Shmoos are delicious to eat, and are eager to be eaten. If a human looks at one hungrily, it will happily immolate itself—either by jumping into a frying pan, after which they taste like chicken, or into a broiling pan, after which they taste like steak. When roasted they taste like pork, and when baked they taste like catfish. (Raw, they taste like oysters on the half-shell.)”

Shmoos are imaginary, but cabbage is almost as good and it’s real.

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