Recipe: Injera (Ethiopian steamed flatbread)

Injera Stack

Our injera recipe makes about 8 pancakes, enough to serve four

[3/20: before you begin, see UPDATE at the bottom of this post.] We have long been obsessed with making an injera recipe at home, as evidenced by this thread on The Fresh Loaf started in 2015. We achieved a satisfying texture and taste, but our pancakes lacked the signature holes (they’re so important they have a name, eyen) that soak up the savory products ladled on top. Turns out the secret is to use non-chlorinated (i.e. bottled or purified) water because chlorine has a devasting effect on the yeast that lives symbiotically on teff grains. This injera recipe makes 8 medium pieces, enough to serve four, but you probably want to double it to have some for later. Note that it evolves over several days, and includes a number of “auntie” steps where you will use your judgment rather than relying on specific directions.

Ingredients:
1 c teff flour (ivory or dark) for the starter (ersho)*
Non-chlorinated water for the starter
1 c all purpose flour
½ c teff flour (ivory or dark)*
2 c  non-chlorinated water
½ t ground fenugreek
½ t salt (add this just before cooking)
A large non-stick pan with a lid (preferably glass) for cooking

Method: to make the starter (ersho), add non-chlorinated water to teff flour in a glass jar sufficient to mix into a thick paste. Cover with a towel and rest in a warm dark place until you can see bubbles through the sides of the jar and the surface of the starter is spongy. This will take 2-4 days depending on temperature and the freshness of the teff. (Note to sourdough bakers: we found the teff starter to be much more lively and reactive than a starter made from wheat flour.) Transfer 2 ½ T of this starter to a mixing bowl and save (refrigerate) the starter for your next injera recipe.

Add flours and fenugreek to the mixing bowl, then add water gradually till ingredients are evenly mixed and continue adding the rest of the water; teff doesn’t interact with water like wheat flour so you will end up with a layer of liquid on the top which is okay. Cover with a towel and rest in a dark warm place until bubbles start to form on the surface, about 2 days. (If a bit of mold appears on the surface, just spoon it off and discard.) Pour the liquid off the top into a jar; reserve for cooking the injera. Mix the remaining batter well then transfer ½ c to a non-stick skillet on very low heat. Stir with a spatula till it turns into a rubbery solid, a couple of minutes. Transfer to a plate (or just leave in the skillet) and cool to room temperature. Pour the reserved batter into a blender or food processor; add the rubbery absit; blend until the mixture is smooth without lumps.

Injera Cooking

This injera is just about ready to cover: most the surface is covered with eyen and turning from shiny to dull.

For the final prep, rest the batter until bubbles begin to form on the top. This can take anywhere from 2 hours to a day. Add salt and part of reserved liquid and blend with a whisk until it is the consistency of heavy cream (you may not need all the liquid.) When you think it’s ready, heat a 12-inch non-stick pan to medium heat. Make a test pancake by pouring a little batter into the pan. It should form little craters all over the surface then the appearance of the surface should change from shiny to dull. If this happens, you’re ready to cook your injera. If there are few or no holes, let the batter ferment for a couple of hours or even till the next day.

Injera Assembly Line

Cooked injera cooling on towels

To make your production injera, pour ½ c batter (use a measuring cup) into the skillet then tilt it in all directions till the edges reach the side of the pan. Heat until craters form all over the surface and the appearance changes from shiny to dull; cover and continue to heat 1 minute or more till the edges of the pancake begin to curl up from the pan. (The bottom of the injera should not change color.) Remove cover and flip the pancake out onto a towel; it will be delicate initially but will become more durable and elastic as it cools. Continue until batter is used up. When the injeras are completely cool and dry, transfer them to a plate and put the plate inside a large zip bag unless you are serving them immediately.

To serve, present a flat injera on a plate (hole side up) with various Ethiopian (or other) preparations ladled on top. Typically there will be small amounts (maybe ½ c each) of four different items, each in its own quadrant, and maybe a bit of salad in the middle. Serve the second injera on the side, rolled up or in stacks on a platter. To eat, the diner tears off a piece of the second injera and uses it to pick up the ingredients on the plate, then tears off the injera on the plate plus its ingredients to finish the meal. If you run out of injera for grabbing and don’t have extras, we think it’s okay to use a spoon.

*Teff flour is available on amazon.

UPDATE 3/20: after two excellent batches, we have been unsuccessful at recreating the generous eyen you see in the photos above. We are on track for a solution but not quite there yet. Here are some learnings if you want to follow along:
*The teff starter (ersho) is VERY prone to attracting mold. We’ve taken to pouring a little non-chlorinated water into the storage container, on top of the starter, and this seems to protect it in the same way that the layer of liquid that forms in your bowl of batter keeps it from molding. Or, just allow a couple of extra days to make fresh ersho from scratch since the teff flour is very predictable in its fermentation properties.
*We revisited Kittee Berns’ injera recipe and realizes she does a couple things differently than we did. First, she cook the injera two days after mixing the batter, rather than our longer fermentation. Second, she covers the injera immediately after pouring the batter into the skillet, rather than letting it start cooking as we did.
*Keep in mind that heat activates but then kills yeast, in the same way you get oven spring when you start baking bread. If your skillet is too hot, the yeast may die before forming good eyen. This may be the most important discovery of them all.
*The Ethiopia cookbook has an alternate method of making absit which we (and you) might want to try. In a large saucepan, bring 250ml of water to a boil. Whisk in 125ml of the base batter and 125ml of water. When this mixture begins to thicken and bubble, remove it from the heat. It should have the consistency of cooked porridge. Let it cool to just warm, then follow above instructions for mixing with batter.
*Finally, if you do your very best and end up with injera that’s more like crepes, no holes, don’t despair. They will still taste good and provide a suitable platform for your Ethiopian cooking experiments. Don’t throw them out.

Posted in Baking and Baked Goods, Eating, Recipes | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Revisiting Four Roses Bourbon

Four Four Roses Bourbons

Four Roses bourbon tastes at Saratoga Wine & Food Festival.

Like a lot of people who came of drinking age in the second half of the 20th century, I had a poor impression of Four Roses bourbon. It was an inexpensive blend without much benefit other than its ability to produce a hangover. But it turns out things have changed dramatically since Kirin acquired the brand around the turn of the century.

Four Roses had a tasting booth both days at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. I spent some time with Stephen Schuler, the rep from Proof Positive, talking about his bottles. The low-quality blend has been discontinued and the company now makes four bourbons for U.S. sales from 10 different recipes. The recipes are a mix-and-match of two separate mash bills (the blend in grain used) and 5 different yeast strains.

Four Roses Bourbon 80 blends all 10 recipes in a proprietary formula and rectifies (adds distilled water to control proof) to a final proof of 80. It’s an easy drinking everyday bourbon (I tried it in an old fashioned as well as neat) on a par with my standby, Evan Williams, and light years better than the harsh fusel oils in the blended product of my college days. About $20 at retail.

The Small Batch, 90 proof, blends 4 of the 10 recipes. It starts with a ripe berry note that reminds me of the fruity red wines that were popular a few years back, turns to a mellow nuttiness, and ends with a spicy kick in the back of the throat. High $30s at retail.

The Single Barrel, 100 proof, uses only one recipe (a high rye mash bill and a delicate fruit yeast strain). It has a deeper, more complex flavor profile—Schuler says he can taste notes of toasted caramel, cacao nibs, tobacco, leather. On my first visit to his booth this was the bourbon he poured when he found out I was an Islay drinker; it has the same kind of intensity that makes you sit up and take notice. Low $40s at retail.

The Small Batch Select, 104 proof, is blended with a similar process to the Small Batch using 6 of the 10 recipes. It is non-chill filtered which gives it an appealing syrupy mouthfeel that coat the palate. Schuler finds lots going on with this bourbon: nose of raspberry, clove and nutmeg; apricot, berries, vanilla and light oak in the flavor profile; lingering spearmint finish with a light touch of cinnamon. It’s a bourbon drinker’s bourbon, with layer upon layer of what a bourbon lover loves. Around $80 at retail.

By the way, according to Wikipedia there’s some historical fuzziness about the origin of the Four Roses brand. Some say it was originally distilled by four guys named Rose, which makes sense. But Kirin has a much more romantic story which leaves out the Roses entirely:

It began when Paul Jones, Jr., the founder of Four Roses Bourbon, became smitten by the beauty of a Southern belle. It is said that he sent a proposal to her, and she replied that if her answer were “Yes,” she would wear a corsage of roses on her gown to the upcoming grand ball. Paul Jones waited for her answer excitedly on that night of the grand ball…when she arrived in her beautiful gown, she wore a corsage of four red roses. He later named his Bourbon “Four Roses” as a symbol of his devout passion for the lovely belle, a passion he thereafter transferred to making his beloved Four Roses Bourbon.

However, they call this the “legend” rather than actual historical fact. Something to speculate about while you are enjoying a few sips of Four Roses bourbon.

Posted in Drinking, Events | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

Last look at the 2019 Saratoga Wine & Food Festival

Charcuterie Plate

Apps at the VIP portion of the “Forest Magic” dinner, at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival, including pickled fiddleheads.

Last weekend’s “Forest Magic” dinner and Grand Tasting were sold out and everybody supporting SPAC through the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival seemed to be having a grand time. In every way it felt like an elevated experience from previous years, and we look forward to what’s to come in 2020. Here are a few highlights in pictures.

Dining Tent

Getting ready for dinner in the “Forest Magic” tent next to the Reflecting Pool.

Sculpture at Sunset

Sculpture at sunset, on loan from the Hyde Collection.

Porchetta

Porchetta stuffed with sausage, from chefs Michael Blake and Kevin London.

Apps on Tray

Passed apps during the “Forest Magic” happy hour.

Lardo Toasts

Oregano-infused lardo… the most decadent delight of the evening.

Forest Magic Second Course

The three-course Forest Magic dinner may have been the only misfire of the weekend. There were three courses, each a collaboration between two chefs, and the first two featured corn. More coordination and maybe solo presentations might work better in the future.

Inside the VIP tent at the Saturday Grand Tasting.

Kolonien

Kolonien, a zydeco-infused band from Sweden, sponsored by Caffé Lena.

Hamlet Ghost Mezcal

Single-origin mezcal cocktails from Hamlet & Ghost.

Siros Platter

The most generous offering at the Saturday Grand Tasting may have been this platter of spit-roasted beef tenderloin and rack of lamb plus olives and tomatoes in agrodolce, from Siro’s. The bees loved it, and so did we.

Posted in Cooking, Eating, Events | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Your Grand Tasting strategy for today

Grand Tasting Wine Pour

Get ready for some excellent sampling and imbibing at today’s Grand Tasting of the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival.

Today, October 5, is the Grand Tasting of the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. The VIP portion (sold out) starts at 11 with general admission (tickets still available) at noon. At last night’s elegant dinner, both the weather and the crowds were exceptionally well behaved. Hopefully the same will hold true today, but it can’t hurt to share a few pointers we came up with for prior events:

  1. Arrive early. The crowds are likely to get thicker as the event goes on, and many of the most popular stations may run out of food. Why chance it? There’s likely to be a backup at the gate when the event opens, so 15 minutes after is just right.

  2. Head for the back of the tent. People tend to gravitate to the first thing they see once they get inside, so those first few stations will be mobbed. Walk right past and head for the rear wall. Remember, when you’re standing in line you’re not eating/drinking (unless you’ve brought something from another station, which doesn’t seem a proper thing to do).

  3. Eat before drinking. The food is likely to run out first. Plus, not a bad idea to coat your stomach before pounding beer/wine/hard liquor.

  4. Have a liquor strategy. You can’t drink everything and don’t want to since quality is likely to vary widely. Decide on a particular drink category and stick to that. Coming off the first overnight freeze of the season, I’m going to look for toddies and similar warming concoctions.

  5. Wear dark clothes. Should have put this first. You are inevitably going to spill something at some point so be prepared. And if you get through the afternoon without an accident, give yourself a high five at the end.

  6. Study the map, assuming there will be a map of some kind. You don’t want to miss out on a participating restaurant or beverage distributor because you couldn’t find them or didn’t know they were there.

  7. Take Lyft or Uber, or have a designated driver. This is a Wine & Food Festival, after all, with unlimited pours of some very good stuff. Don’t have a bad end to a perfect day.

Elizabeth Sobol and crew seem to have done a magnificent job in planning the new format, so the above admonitions may not be necessary. But they can’t hurt. See you there (by the Reflecting Pool) at Spa Park.

Posted in Drinking, Eating, Events | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

An Ayurvedic chef and much more at Saratoga Wine & Food Festival

Wine Pour Saratoga

There will be plenty of wine to sample at Saturday’s Grand Tasting at the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival. Photo by Bigler Productions.

This weekend’s Saratoga Wine & Food Festival got off to a fast start with a good crowd at the Ayurvedic cooking demo on Tuesday night; details below. As promised, here’s a list of the chefs who will be participating in this weekend’s events. The Friday event is sold out as of this date but a waitlist is available; get your tickets now for Saturday to avoid a sellout of that as well.

New to 2019 festival is the “Forest Magic” Farm-to-Table Harvest Dinner, curated by Kim Klopstock of Lily and the Rose in collaboration with John Sconzo of Rascal & Thorn and local progressive chefs Dan Spitz of Fat N Happy LLC, Yaddo’s head chef Michael Blake, and Kevin London, owner of Farmhouse Restaurant at Top of the World. Pairing the region’s top talent with national chefs Diego Moya, Executive Chef of Racines in NYC, rated one of America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants of 2019 by Wine Enthusiast, and Austin Peltier, an expert on Ayurvedic cooking practices, the teams of two will each present a course that incorporates sustainable and locally sourced ingredients. This event is currently sold out; to add yourself to the waitlist call the SPAC Box Office at 518.584.9330 x135.

Highlighting the weekend destination event are farm-to-table chefs Tim Spedding and Louise Rødkjær Jørgensen from Britain who will utilize some of the best local produce for Friday’s VIP Farm-to-Table Harvest Dinner and prepare canapés for the VIP Grand Tasting. Tim Spedding is recognized as one of the UK’s most exciting and influential young chefs. Together with his partner Louise Rødkjær Jørgensen, the pair plans to open their own restaurant and inn in the beautiful Cornwall countryside focusing on farm-to-table cuisine.

Chef Adam Peltier presents Ayurvedic diet concepts at Cultivate event in Skidmore’s Falstaff Hall.

We attended the “Cultivate” demo with Austin Peltier earlier this week and can predict you are in for a treat when you taste his cooking. He gave us a quick overview of the principles of the Ayurvedic diet and served us roasted sweet potatoes which had been prepared with three different palates of flavor and ingredients to correspond to different aspects of Ayurvedic diet (Vatta, Pitta, Kapha); they tasted delicious rather than medicinal. Looking forward to a truly outstanding experience this weekend.

Posted in Eating, Events | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Recipe: Shime Saba (pickled sushi-style mackerel)

Saba on Shiso

Shime Saba recipe results, in a shiso burrito.

Shime Saba means, literally, shiny mackerel. This saba recipe is very easy to make at home and the taste will be close to what you enjoy in a quality sushi bar. The visuals? Not so much, until you practice filleting, removing the silverskin and picking out the little bones a lot more than we did. But you can roll it up in a shiso leaf for a saba burrito, and the flavor will be so good you won’t care what it looks like. Makes four appetizer servings.

Ingredients:
1 very fresh mackerel, typically a bit under a pound
Kosher salt
Rice wine vinegar

Saba Fillets

Our saba fillets were not sushi-chef quality, but serviceable.

Method: fillet the fish (or have your fishmonger do it) and discard head, tail, fins and backbone. Coat both sides of each filet with salt (use more than you think you need) and lay flat in a container in refrigerator for one hour. Carefully rinse the salt off the fish (this source suggests you dip it in a bowl of water) and pat it dry with paper towels; rinse the container. Return the fish to the container and cover with rice wine vinegar. Marinate 2 hours, turning the fish at the halfway point. Discard vinegar and pat the fish dry.

Removing Saba Silverskin

Removing saba silverskin.

Before serving, you need to remove the inedible silverskin which is a thin top layer above the shiny exterior skin. Find a place where you can get a grip on it near the front of the filet and pull down (toward the belly) and back. Hopefully you can get it off in one piece. You also need to pick out some fine bones which are hidden in the backbone area; I couldn’t locate them in the whole filet and had to pick them out after I had sliced the saba into individual pieces.

To serve, slice top-to-bottom into ½ inch thick slices. If you’ve done a good clean job filleting you can cut at an angle to expose more flesh; otherwise cut straight down. Serve on sushi rice as nigiri, or eat plain with a garnish of shiso leaves.

Posted in Eating, Mains, Recipes | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Saratoga Wine & Food Festival reinvents itself

SPAC Reflecting Pool

This year’s SPAC Wine & Food Festival will take place around the Rellecting Pool. Photo courtesy of Bigler Productions.

We’ve reported from time to time on the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival, an event on the grounds of SPAC that used to happen the weekend after Labor Day. Watching Zak Pelaccio break down a pig, a burger bash in which fine dining chefs attempted to outdo one another, seeing Ric Orlando cook up shrimp and grits and getting his recipe are some of our favorite memories. In recent years, however, the festival got a bit lazy with fewer side events and athletes replacing celebrity chefs as the top attraction.

No longer. Saratoga Performing Arts Center President & CEO Elizabeth Sobol has thrown the rule book out the window, starting with moving the date to leaf-peeping season on October 4 and 5 and the venue to the dramatic Reflecting Pool outside the Hall of Springs. Although admission is not cheap—this is SPAC’s main fundraising event of the year, after all—there are some fascinating preview presentations you can attend at no charge.

The “Cultivate Series” kicks off on October 1 with talks and presentations by Soul Fire Farm co-founder, author, activist and farmer Leah Penniman; author of Fasting and Feasting Adam Federman, and Ayurvedic expert and classically trained chef Austin Peltier. The events are presented in partnership with Pitney Meadows Community Farm and Skidmore College. Admission is free, but space is limited so reservations are highly recommended. Tickets here.

Chef at SPAC Wine & Food Festival

The Festival will feature chef-prepared specialties made with local and sustainable ingredients. Photo courtesy of Bigler Productions.

If that whets your appetite, you can head on over to the “Forest Magic” Farm-to-Table Harvest on Friday night, curated by Kim Klopstock of Lily and the Rose in collaboration with John Sconzo of Rascal & Thorn and a number of top chefs we’ll highlight in another post. Teams of two chefs will each present a course that incorporates sustainable and locally sourced ingredients. We volunteered earlier this summer at the Pitney Meadows Fire Feast, also a collaboration involving Klopstock and Sconzo, and predict this will be special. Tickets here.

The Grand Tasting will return on Saturday, October 5, though without the display of classic cars that made for an upscale but odd pairing in previous years. Still more celebrity chefs will be on hand preparing dishes to sample, along with so many representatives of local restaurants and beverage purveyors that you’ll need a strategic plan (which we’ll share in our next post) to get through it all. The Grand Tasting will also feature a sculpture garden curated by The Hyde Collection in Glens Falls, and live music sponsored by Caffè Lena. Tickets here.

SPAC’s Sobol sums it up: “The underlying ethos of this year’s festival is socially-conscious cultivation and consumption. Pairing in-demand international talent with our progressive regional chefs gives our community the opportunity to experience exquisite culinary artistry, incorporating local sustainable ingredients for a truly collaborative farm-to-table inspired event.”

Posted in Drinking, Eating, Events | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Our five most popular recipes of 2019

September is the anniversary of this blog, and every year we report the most popular posts during the previous 12 months. We checked the non-recipe posts a couple weeks back; here are the five most popular recipes of 2019. Let’s go.

  1. Halal Guys White Sauce. No surprise here, since discussion of the intentionally misleading recipe clues from some foodie titans dwarfed other topics this past year. Here is the real deal, the actual recipe the Halal Guys use (well not exactly actual because they make it from scratch and we’re using mayo as a shortcut.)
  2. Amish Creamed Celery. This is a home-grown recipe developed right on this blog, informed by the sweet/sour cream sauces of the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition and the alleged Amish fascination with celery as a symbol of fertility. Also, it’s delicious.
  3. Vinegar Peppers. An essential ingredient in Chicken Riggies and other Utica-style Italian-American dishes. Prep couldn’t be easier and you’ll always be ready with a tart accent for your dishes.
  4. German-Style Head Cheese (Souse). We love this stuff and are impressed that a huge number of readers apparently have access to fresh pig’s heads. But if you are into pickled offal, please check out Amish-Style Pickled Tripe in Aspic which is a much more exciting breakthrough.
  5. Aji Roja. This is essentially Peruvian ketchup: a well-balanced tomato-based sauce you can serve on a variety of savory items. The Peruvians put it on beef heart; you can try it on burgers and hot dogs if you like.

So it seems our readers are offal-centric and avid for culinary details from the nether regions of our planet. Not a bad way to end up the year.  See our most popular non-recipe posts here.

Posted in Cooking, Eating | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Recipe: Okra and Onions

Okra and Onions

Okra and Onions

Reader Enough Already! pointed me to this simple and delicious recipe for Okra and Onions which originally appeared in the New York Times. It’s a great way to prepare squash or other late-season produce, as well as okra. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 lb okra, stems removed and sliced in half lengthwise
1 medium onion, approximately 1 c, peeled and cut in half then sliced into halfmoons
3 T olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Shiso, mint or basil for garnish

Method: preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss the okra and onions in olive oil then spread out on a cookie sheet. Roast 20 minutes, until onion is softened and okra is beginning to brown. Salt and pepper to taste then garnish with chopped herbs.

Posted in Eating, Recipes, Sides | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Recipe: Schug Yemenite Green Sauce

Schug

Schug, ready to work its magic

Try our schug recipe on your next falafel pita: a dollop of yoghurt sauce or Halal Guys White sauce, a schmear of schug and you’re in heaven. We concocted our schug recipe based on a version from Adeena Sussman, then tinkered till it was more well-rounded than simply volcanic so you can eat more of it without exploding. Makes 1 cup.

Ingredients:
1 c finely packed cilantro leaves, or parsley leaves, or a mixture, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed and chopped but with seeds and veins intact
½ t Kosher salt
½ t ground cumin
½ t ground cardamon
½ t ground black pepper
1 T lemon juice
1 T or more extra virgin olive oil

Method: combine all ingredients in a mini food processor and purée to a coarse grind–smooth but with distinct bits of leaves. It should be moist but without pooling olive oil; if too dry add another T olive oil and mix a bit more. Transferred to a container with a lid and let the flavors blend for 2 hours or more. Taste and add more salt if needed. Will keep a few days in the refrigerator.

Posted in Condiments, Eating, Recipes | Tagged | Leave a comment