Recipe: Chinese Coleslaw

Chinese Coleslaw

Chinese Coleslaw

Chinese Coleslaw is adapted from the Omnivore’s Cookbook. It’s a good side dish with Chinese and Thai mains which contain similar ingredients like Chinkiang vinegar, cilantro and sesame oil. It contains very little salt so it doesn’t cure over time like most cole slaws; thus you can serve it as soon as you make it. Serves 8.

Ingredients:

4 c (half a medium head) cabbage, or a mix of green and red cabbage, grated
1 medium carrot, grated
2 green onions, sliced in half lengthwise then coarsely chopped including some of the green
2 T cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
1 T neutral oil
2 T Chinkiang vinegar
1 T soy sauce
1 T honey
2 t sesame oil
2 t fish sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ t Kosher salt
1/3 c roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped.

Method: mix wet ingredients in a bowl with garlic and salt until well combined. Add cabbage, carrot, green onions and cilantro and toss. Garnish with chopped peanuts and serve immediately as a side dish. Chinese coleslaw keeps well for a day or two.

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Recipe: Bakmi Goreng (Indonesian Stir-Fried Noodles)

Bakmi Goreng

Bakmi Goreng.

Bakmi Goreng is another Asian street food built on a sweet soy sauce base—in this case an Indonesian product called kecap manis. This recipe is easy, adaptable and flavorful but if you are in the New York Capital District I urge you to try the bakmi goreng at Yono’s and DP Brasserie, the two restaurants managed by Dominick Purnomo.  Dominick has been a tireless supporter of out-of-work restaurant folk during the pandemic, raising hundreds of thousands of dollars to feed those in need, and the least you can do is eat his noodles. Makes 4 main dish servings

Ingredients:
12 oz fresh Chinese egg noodles (or substitute 8 oz uncooked spaghetti)
2 T neutral cooking oil
8 oz protein such as chicken, shrimp or tofu, chopped (if shrimp, use whole)
2 large eggs
4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2 c napa cabbage, coarsely chopped (or use standard American cabbage)
¾ c celery (about 3 stalks), chopped
½ c green onions, cut into rings, including some of the green
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
2 T Kecap Manis (ABC brand seems to be the most popular)
A generous pinch each of ground coriander and cumin (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
Fried onions for serving, about ½ c (optional)

ABC Kecap Manis

ABC brand seems to be the kecap manis that everyone uses.

Method: cook the noodles in a generous amount of boiling water until tender but not flaccid; drain and rinse with cold water, and reserve. Heat the oil in a wok and add garlic and onion; cook until soft. Push to one side and add the egg; beat with chopsticks and cook briefly until done. Push the egg to one side and add protein; cook until just done. Add cabbage, celery and green onion and cook until soft. Add back cooked noodles and kecap manis plus optional coriander and cumin and stir until the mixture is hot and well combined. Serve with optional topping of fried onions or shallots.

*Compared to the Healthy Boy Black Soy Sauce we tried the other day, kecap manis has a similar flavor profile but is less complex, without the additional flavor of wheat. You could substitute the Healthy Boy sauce—or just use molasses.

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Thai secret sauces: Gold Mountain and Healthy Boy

Thai Secret Sauces

Thai Secret Sauces: Healthy Boy and Gold Mountain

Thai secret sauces probably aren’t essential to cooking authentic Thai dishes, but they’re a powerful short cut and I suspect part of most street vendors’ repertoire. Gold Mountain Seasoning Sauce is the saltiest soy sauce you have ever tasted; it tastes like it contains fish sauce as well but the ingredient list says no. Healthy Boy Dark Soy Sauce is similar to molasses in its thickness and a sweetness which is also slightly bitter. You can find them at the aforementioned Amazon affiliate links as well as at many Asian groceries.

Kao Ka Moo

A nice platter of Kao Ka Moo.

We employed both sauces this week to make a kettle full of Kao Ka Moo, a comfort-food dish which is common in San Francisco but hard to find on the east coast. A chunk of pork leg (we use pork shoulder because it’s far cheaper) is simmered in a savory broth until tender, then the broth is strained and cooked down with pickled mustard greens and hard boiled eggs and served over rice. We used this recipe, which incorporates both sauces, and it wasn’t quite there so we added a few squirts of each Thai secret sauce as might be done at a street stand and we were good to go.

Amazon reviewers have lots of good ideas for how to use Gold Mountain which is why we included the above link, but you can get it quite a bit cheaper from their third party vendors. For the same reason we’ve included the most popular link for Healthy Boy Dark Soy Sauce and it’s not expensive but is a small container so you might want to buy something larger. In doctoring the above recipe we probably used a T of Gold Mountain and 2 T of Healthy Boy so the small Healthy Boy container would run out quickly.

If you prefer to go to your Asian market for these Thai secret sauces, you might have to snoop around a bit because they probably aren’t in the same aisle as mainstream soy sauces; we found them in the Indonesian section. (Along with ABC Kecap Manis, which we will report on at another time.) Enjoy!

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Recipe: Happy Bellyfish Kimchi

Happy Bellyfish Kimchi.

We made this kimchi through a class with Happy Bellyfish, an online cooking school based in Germany that specializes in fermentations. (More about them later when we review Zoom cooking classes as a trend/necessity.) It’s a good solid basic rendition and easy to prepare. One interesting twist: most kimchi recipes have a starch element to thicken the sauce and most use glutinous rice flour which will be hard to find in many places; happy bellyfish substitutes a grated raw potato. Makes about 1 liter kimchi.

Ingredients:
1 kg napa cabbage (one small head or half a large head)
2 T kosher salt
200 g daikon radish (buy a six inch long radish or use equivalent amount of a larger radish, peeled and cut into inch-long matchsticks)
100 g (1 large) carrot, peeled and cut into inch-long matchsticks
3-4 scallions
1 c hot water
1 medium raw potato, peeled (or 2 T potato starch or glutinous rice flour)
4 T or more gochugaru (Korean chili powder, do not substitute)
¼ c fish sauce
¼ medium raw onion, coarsely chopped
¼ ripe pear, cored and coarsely chopped (I peeled but don’t know that you need to)
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
One inch piece of ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
Salt to taste
1 T sweetener (honey, agave syrup or sugar)

Method: chop the cabbage into bite size pieces about 1 ½ inch square. Massage 2 T kosher salt into the leaves then cover with water and brine for at least 1 hour but no more than 5 hours. Drain the cabbage, wash it to remove salt, then pat mostly dry with a kitchen towel. Peel and cut the carrot and daikon, cut the scallions crosswise into 1 inch sections (including some of the green) and mix with cabbage in a large ceramic or glass crock or bowl.

Make the paste: grate the potato with the finest mesh on a box grater then mix with the hot water; let stand a few minutes to leach out the starch. Drain and transfer to a blender jar along with gochugaru, fish sauce, onion, pear, garlic, ginger and sweetener and blend briefly till smooth. Pour over the vegetables in the bowl and mix very thoroughly with your hands, pressing the paste into the vegetables so every surface is exposed to the cure. (It is a very good idea to use disposable gloves when doing this.) Taste and add salt if needed (probably only a little if any) and additional gochugaru if you want it hotter. Cover with a plate then a weight and press down as much as possible to extract liquid. Cover the bowl or crock and allow to cure 5 days on a countertop in a room around 68 degrees ambient temperature. Check daily and toss the mixture lightly; remove any mold that forms with a spoon or tongs or your fingers. (Our sauerkraut frequently develops a bit of harmless but annoying mold; the kimchi did not, probably because the chili powder inoculates the brine and keeps the mold from growing.)

After five days, taste the kimchi. The cabbage should be reduced in volume and there should be a good amount of rich red brine. It’s fine to eat at this point, but you should transfer most of it to a glass container (like an empty kimchi jar) and store in your refrigerator so it can continue to develop. Will keep for several months.

How to eat kimchi? Koreans eat it with almost any savory dish, and so can you. Use as a condiment like any pickle, or mix into kimchi fried rice.

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On the floor at Fancy Food Show 2021

Sioux Chef

Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson of Sioux Chef, a rising trend for 2021.

No, not really. In a normal year we’d be on our way to San Francisco for the Winter Fancy Food Show 2021 where we’d sample wares, talk to producers, and guess what food trends would be hot and not in the coming year. But currently we can’t get into San Francisco (actually we can, but we’d immediately go into a 10 day quarantine) and the Fancy Food Show is happening virtually through something called Specialty Food Live! 2021.

Reminiscent of the many Zoom food tasting and preparation events in 2020, the Specialty Food Association offered vendors the chance to participate in a “virtual tasting experience” in which they could get their products into the hands and mouths of prospective buyers for a fee of $249; the sessions sold out. Beyond that there have been a number of online seminars we could access with our press credentials, and a virtual showcase where vendors are invited to put up a web offering equivalent to the experience of tasting at a booth at the live show. But specialty food businesses are typically not internet-savvy because so much of their business is done in person and the showcases we sampled were mostly predictable press releases.

Still, we found among the emails and web pages a few developments worth noting:

  • The annual Trendspotters’ Index predicts that home-bound customers will be willing to spend more for a restaurant-quality food experience, eg “smoked watermelon salt for use on fruits and vegetables; a sauce that combined the seven toppings of the classic Chicago Hot Dog into one condiment [editorial comment: why?]; sliced Calabrian chiles; and cocktail mixes like a smoked maple old-fashioned syrup for at-home bartending.”
  • Godiva Chocolates’ 128 retail stores are closing by end of Q1 2021, in response to the pandemic and changing consumer habits. “The company has begun to shift its focus to food, drug, and mass retail outlets and online options to meet growing consumer demand.”
  • Costco, famous for its high quality goods and long checkout lines, is testing curbside service in Albuquerque. Consumers can choose from 2000 items and have them loaded into their cars for a $10 fee. There is a minimum $100 order, as you’d expect from Costco.
  • We don’t know what it is but it sounds exciting: Farmstead opens a series of “dark stores” which we’ll guess are equivalent to “ghost kitchens” for restaurants that don’t have a physical presence; in this case the products are home-delivered high end produce and the service is making a profit in San Francisco while the new location in Miami has a waiting list.
  • In Minneapolis, a new restaurant called Owamni will introduce Twin Cities residents to native American foods. Sean Sherman, the “Sioux Chef”, told MPLS Magazine: “It’s the food from exactly right here that’s exactly under your feet that seems foreign for some reason. People are always asking me where to get the ingredients for my recipes: Where do you buy fresh cedar for tea? You don’t. Go outside with a knife.”

If these tidbits leave you hungry, we feel the same way. But it’s not likely this hug-centric, mouth-stuffing event will return to its classic format any time soon.

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Food for thought: The Department of Salad

Pimento Salad

Shaved Celery Salad with Pimiento Buttermilk Dressing, from Issue #8 of The Department of Salad.

Good news: whereas our usual Food for Thought items require clicking a dread affiliate link to purchase, today’s is absolutely free. Emily Nunn is a wonderful food writer who says of herself, “I live in a barn in rural NC dairy farmland and have dedicated my remaining years on this planet to salad.” How she will support herself at this remains to be seen, but for the present we can reap her bounty for free by subscribing to the Department of Salad newsletter. [UPDATE: the publisher has announced she will be charging a small fee, like $6-7 a month, so check out a few issues now and see if it’s something you want to pay for.]

Each issue of this approximately monthly newsletter (she says weekly, and maybe it will be soon[UPDATE–last issues have indeed come weekly]) features a discussion with a chef or contributor with recipes from that guest, followed by Nunn’s own related recipes—virtually all of them salads. It started last March and is currently at issue #11, plus this bonus recap that lists all the issues and recipes so far. (which makes it a good place to start your own explorations.)

Our favorite issue so far has to be #8, which as you might expect has a Southern theme. Atlanta Constitution food columnist Chadwick Boyd shares his Shaved Celery Salad with Pimiento Buttermilk Dressing and then Emily Nunn is doubly inspired and shares celery salad recipes AND her own pimento cheese recipe.

If you feel guilty about getting all this goodness for free, Emily suggests you make a donation to No Kid Hungry. Then follow this link to start your own subscription, and check the website to catch up on past issues.

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Recipe: Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse.

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse is an example of the treats that await you in Rise, the wonderful compendium of Black cooking curated by Marcus Samuelsson. Gestel, who is Executive Chef at Le Bernardin in NYC, likes to serve this with sliced croissants. Seems like a gimmick, but in fact it’s a perfect pairing. Makes about 2 c mousse which is a lot; expect to separate into several bricks and freeze for future use.

Ingredients
1 lb chicken livers*
¼ t pink curing salt (Prague #1 powder)**
¾ lb (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, each stick cut into several pieces
¼ c brandy or cognac
2 T balsamic vinegar or saba
½ t kosher salt

Mousse and Croissant

Do try this mousse the way Chef Gestel recommends, spread on a warm slice of croissant!

Method: clean the livers (remove the white fatty bits and connective tissue) and wash thoroughly; drain. Mix in a bowl with curing salt and cure for half an hour. Rinse the livers and pat dry. Melt 2 T butter and sauté livers until they are brown on the outside but still pink in the middle, about 5 minutes. Transfer livers to a food processor*** and add the brandy to the pan. Heat to just boiling (take care not to set the brandy on fire) and deglaze the pan, then pour contents into the food processor. Cool to room temperature, then add salt and balsamic vinegar. Process for about 4 minutes, adding the pieces of butter one at a time and waiting till each one is absorbed before adding the next. At the end the mousse should have a beautiful creamy texture like soft serve ice cream.

Using a flexible spatula, remove the mousse from the processor bowl and transfer to several serving ramekins or a small loaf pan which has been lined with plastic wrap as we have done. Cover and chill until hard before serving.

*Chicken livers seem to have avoided the price escalation which affects many other variety meats, so you can afford to buy some that have been raised on quality feed. (The liver’s role in the body is to filter out impurities, so what the animal ate makes a big difference.)
**To keep the mousse from turning brown when exposed to air. You can leave it out if you are opposed to cured foods.
***You really need an old fashioned device with a strong motor and a slow speed for this recipe, vs a mini-chopper. If you don’t have one you could try making the recipe in a blender, but if the end result is not silky smooth you might want to strain it by passing the final mixture through a chinoise or other medium-fine strainer.

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Recipe: Microwave Nut Brittle

Microwave Nut Brittle

Microwave Nut Brittle.

Microwave Nut Brittle is likely better than any store-bought brittle, and also a fun pandemic project. If you involve kids, though, please have an adult do the final step because that melted sugar is HOT. Stolen from King Arthur Flour; I’ve made a couple of tweaks and added the aforementioned safety warning. Makes about 2 c brittle.

Ingredients:
1 c sugar
½ c light corn syrup
1½ c roasted nuts (you can use a combination but they recommend peanuts and I agree that’s the best)
1 T butter
1 t vanilla
1 t baking soda

Bubbling Brittle

Brittle mixture after stirring in baking soda; it will foam up which is why you need a big bowl.

Method: grease a wooden spoon (coat in neutral oil) so it won’t stick to the candy. Mix sugar and syrup in a large (at least 8 c capacity) microwave safe bowl using the spoon. Microwave on high for 5 minutes; the mixture will bubble. Remove and add nuts, butter and vanilla in that order and mix thoroughly with the wooden spoon. Return to microwave and heat on high for 2-3 minutes until the sugar starts to brown/caramelize. Remove from microwave using mitts or potholders–the candy will be very hot–and stir in baking soda quickly; the mixture will fizz. Quickly pour onto a cookie sheet which has been covered with parchment paper or a silicone pad and spread with the wooden spoon as wide as possible. Cool at least 30 minutes, then break into serving size pieces.

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A beefy bargain from Wild Fork Foods

Wild Fork Brisket

Flash-frozen USDA Prime brisket from Wild Fork Foods.

A whole, USDA Prime brisket for $2.98 a pound? Yes, please! That’s a price I’ve encountered only once before, during a sale at H.E.B. in Austin, and it’s not much more than I pay for Choice at Walmart. Plus it’s shipped for free in a giant cooler box with dry ice, and arrives hard as a rock and ready to transfer to your own freezer for warm weather smoking.

This bargain comes from Wild Fork Foods, a mail order purveyor which recently started showing up in my Facebook feed. I generally assume such offers are bait-and-switch, with some kind of membership commitment or other strings attached, but couldn’t find any so decided to take a chance and a few days later the aforementioned brisket arrived at my door.

There are a few quirks. Initially, the brisket in the ad was “back soon” and would not move to my cart when I clicked the link; a call to customer service revealed this means out of stock but “we’re expecting a truck tomorrow” and sure enough the item was in stock a couple of days later. Also, your credit card will be authorized for an amount larger than the advertised price just in case the cut is bigger than the estimate. But they promise the price will be adjusted when the actual item ships, and it was.

Wild Fork Box

Wild Fork shipping box, as it arrived at my door.

First order shipping is free; after that you’ll pay $10 for overnight shipping which certainly does not cover the cost of packing (the brisket came wrapped in an ecologically appropriate roll of butcher paper, which I’ll save for my smoking experience, inside a Styrofoam cooler) let alone the actual transport. So what’s going on here?

A little research reveals that Wild Fork is a division of JBS Foods, a global wholesaler (with some unsavory associations in Brazil in the past, but they’re certainly not alone in that) which is apparently trying to establish a mail order footprint with very aggressive pricing. Are these prices competing with the retailers JBS sells to? Is it all too good to be true?

Wild Fork Packaging

Inside the Wild Fork shipping box.

I don’t know, but I’m going to take advantage of this opportunity while it lasts. (I purchased with PayPal, which has an excellent buyer protection program.) Right now beef sweetbreads at $2.98/lb are “back soon” but duck legs are in stock at $7.98 a pound along with that $2.98/lb brisket. Check it out.

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Anatomy of a recipe fail

Pizza Recipe Fail

Recipe Fail. Not bad looking square pizza… but Frank Pepe’s clam pie, it’s not.

When you have a recipe fail as badly as my attempt to replicate the clam pie served at Frank Pepe’s in New Haven, you might wonder how any attempt to make a dish outside your experience could ever succeed. But in fact there were clear breaking points along the way and by studying them we can be more confident of not making the same mistakes twice.

  1. Recipe Fail. Frank Pinello hosts a terrific pizza show on the Munchies web channel and we thoroughly enjoyed the episode in which he visited New Haven. We based our own prep on this recipe, also from Frank Pinello. Because he is such a genial guy, we failed to ask obvious questions such as why he only uses 4 chopped garlic cloves, ½ c olive oil and ¾ c Pecorino for two pizzas when at the shop the pies are drowning in these things (in a good way). Another red flag should have been raised when we started stretching the dough, which was supposed to make two ten-inch pies, and found it could easily make 3. I went back and took a closer look at the subhead on the recipe page: “Bring the flavors of New Haven home with the recipe inspired by the #1 pizza in America: the white clam pizza from Frank Pepe’s.” So it never actually says this is Frank Pepe’s recipe, does it? More likely this is what they give to people who say they want to make the pizza at home, knowing they’ll never be able to duplicate it.
  1. Equipment Fail. Pinello’s recipe asks you to heat the pizza stone under the broiler then switch to 500 degrees F before you put the pizza in. I did this on my new BlueStar and the stone cracked. Tom Thibeault from BlueStar LOL’d when I reported this to him and pointed out that the broiler heats to 1800 degrees F, hotter than any commercial pizza oven. He also advised me what I should have done. Heat the stone on the bottom rack with the oven at 550, then crank on the broiler for 10 minutes before loading the pizza. (I’m collecting BlueStar tips which I will share in a future post.)
  1. Operator Fail. When I saw that cracked stone I panicked a bit, then made the bad decision to piece the two sides back together the best I could and load the pizza anyway. It stuck to the peel and all the toppings ended off sliding off one cracked half of the stone onto the other so I ended up with burned toppings plus a mass of puffy bread. I need more peel work and guidance which I could have attained in advance at Pizzacraft and doubtless other sites. This is an example of something I learned in my marketing career: never test more than one thing in a time. In this case it was a new recipe AND a new oven AND underdeveloped skills and I paid the price.
  1. Ingredient Fail. The key component of the Frank Pepe’s clam pizza is, of course, the littleneck clams which are harvested fresh from Long Island Sound and shucked live. I relied on a Korean brand of frozen clam meat which I found at my Asian supermarket. It had very little taste so I was without the briny flavor this pie needs.

In the end, I went with what I know. I heated a half sheet pan upside down on the bottom rack at 500 while I shaped a the remaining to fit the dimensions of a 17×12 Silpat. It didn’t char on the bottom the way I wanted, and it didn’t taste like Frank Pepe’s pie, but at least it was an acceptable white pizza. Live and learn.

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