Fun with fonio

Pierre Thiam

Pierre Thiam

Chef Pierre Thiam sent me home from the Fancy Food Show with a nice supply of fonio. His Yolélé Foods sources the grain from small farms In West Africa, where Thiam was born. Fonio is a tiny seed related to millet; the easiest way to cook it is with water or stock, then fluff it up like couscous and use as the base for a Mediterranean or African stew. (The grains are sold pre-washed and par-cooked so no husking or rinsing is required.)

Fonio cooked

Fonio cooked and fluffed, as a couscous equivalent

The cooked grain has a pleasant, nutty flavor reminiscent of couscous that’s been toasted before steaming. It’s low-glycemic and gluten-free, so a very attractive alternative to couscous (made with wheat) for those with food allergies. It’s not exactly cheap at $20 for 30 ounces on Amazon, but on the other hand that’s enough for perhaps 20 servings. (Also check your local food coop; mine has it for a little over $8 a pound.)

Fonio Nutrition Chart

Fonio is low-glycemic and gluten-free, with more nutrients than couscous or brown rice; double-click the image to read the captions.

Thiam is a multifaceted guy who is involved in restaurants in Nigeria and Senegal and is also co-owner of Teranga, a fast-casual place located in the Africa Center in Harlem. The menu there tends to one-dish meals, many on a base of fonio. He gave a TED talk on fonio which describes his vision to make the grain universally available while supporting the economy of the Sahal, the region in which it is grown. He has written two cookbooks, one of which is devoted to fonio and the other to Senegalese recipes.

Many of the recipes are available on the Yolélé website and not a few are aimed at western preferences, but Lamb Shanks with Rof Gremolata seems authentic. Lamb shanks are braised with onions, tomato paste, peanut butter and served over fonio pilaf with a modified gremolata, called rof. Check it out.

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Recipe: Senegalese Lamb Shank with Peanut Sauce on Fonio Pilaf

Senegalese Lamb Mafe

Senegalese Lamb Shank with Peanut Sauce on Fonio Pilaf

From From Senegal: Modern Senegalese Recipes from the Source to the Bowl, this recipe is  good way to showcase fonio as the base for a savory stew. Chef Pierre Thian explains that the gremolata is “a twist on our traditional rof, the parsley mixture we use to stuff the fish in thiebou jenn, our national dish of fish on rice. The heat from the Scotch bonnet and brightness of the lemon zest brilliantly lifts all the earthy flavors of the peanut sauce.” Serves six.

Ingredients:
2 T peanut or vegetable oil, plus more if needed
6 lamb shanks (about 1.25 pounds each)
2 T salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 c chopped yellow onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 T tomato paste, mixed with a few T water
2 quarts chicken stock or water
2 dried bay leaves
1 T finely chopped fresh thyme
1 c unsweetened smooth peanut butter
1 Scotch bonnet pepper
2 T Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce
Rof Gremolata (recipe follows), for serving
Spring Vegetable Fonio Pilaf (recipe follows), for serving

Method: heat the oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Add the shanks a few at a time, without overcrowding. Brown them well on all sides, about 8 minutes, and set aside on a plate. Repeat until all the shanks are nicely browned, adding more oil if necessary.

In the same pan, brown the onions. Reduce the heat to low and add the minced garlic. Stir well, then add the diluted tomato paste. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 7 to 10 minutes, until a deep, dark red. Add another tablespoon or two of water to prevent scorching, if needed.

Add the stock, raise the heat, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the bay leaves, thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Slowly add the peanut butter 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring constantly to dissolve it in the liquid.

Return the shanks to the pot, pressing down to submerge them in the sauce. Add the Scotch bonnet and fish sauce. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, until the shanks are tender.
Uncover the pot and continue cooking until the sauce is thick and coats the back of a spoon. Remove the bay leaves and skim off the fat. Adjust the seasoning.
›› Serve the lamb shanks and sauce hot, on a platter. Top each shank with a generous pinch of gremolata and serve with a side of fonio pilaf.

ROF GREMOLATA
Makes about 1 cup

Italian gremolata, a condiment traditionally made with herbs, lemon zest, and garlic, meets Senegalese rof in this fresh, flavor-packed topping.

Ingredients:
1 bunch parsley, leaves finely chopped
3 scallions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄2 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and finely chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method: gently combine the parsley, scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

SPRING VEGETABLE FONIO PILAF
Serves 4

This simple fonio pilaf makes the perfect side dish for Lamb Shank Mafé or any other main dish that needs a healthy grain to sop up its sauce. I use spring vegetables in this version, but feel free to adapt to whatever is in season.

2 T olive oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
1⁄2 c vegetable stock or chicken stock
1⁄2 lb zucchini, trimmed
1⁄2 lb asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1⁄2-inch lengths
1⁄4 cup fresh or frozen green peas
2 c cooked Yolélé fonio
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method: heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook until soft but not brown. Add the garlic and carrot and cook for another 3 minutes, until the garlic is fragrant. Add the stock and simmer, covered, until the carrot is tender, about 10 minutes.

Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise, then into 1/2-inch pieces. Add the asparagus and zucchini to the pot and cook 5 minutes, until tender. Add the peas and cook for about 1 minute more. Fold in the fonio and scallions. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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On the ground at Saratoga Chowderfest 2020

Salt and Char Chowderfest Crowd

As usual, the longest lines at Saratoga Chowderfest 2020 was at Salt & Char. Not particularly memorable chowder after the wait.

Saratoga Chowderfest 202 is now history, so I am revising this post. It’s worth leaving up as a chronicle of the complaints from locals and specifically from those in the food industry. “Gave me hives…. nightmare…. the worst… not a chance… nnnooooope” are typical comments on this Facebook thread which got 25 responses and nary a positive word.

The problem was not the size of the portions or the creativity of the chefs, but rather the hordes of visitors who took it on themselves to get as drunk as possible as early in the day as possible. I heard from a local news source that Chowderfest now draws bigger crowds than Travers weekend during the racing season, and these visitors are not here to sip the waters or catch the ballet at SPAC. A photo went viral of a young woman relieving herself in the doorway of a restaurant building (with a public restroom available in the library, not 100 feet away) and when we ventured out at 6 pm for an excellent early dinner at Dominic Colose’s Amuse on Broadway, the hollering, lurching and friends-propping-up-drunk-friends atmosphere was palpable.

But we’ll return next year in spite of all this, and you should too as long as you follow our simple rules. Get there at 11 am if you can, when serving begins, and plan to finish no later than 1 pm. If you’re driving, leave your vehicle at one of the shuttle locations (Saratoga Casino and Wilton Mall this year) instead of the madness of trying to get a parking spot in town.

Seneca Chowder

Best of the day was Seneca’s grilled shrimp chowder with ‘Nduja foam.

This year we tasted 7 chowders in about an hour. Best was Seneca, the wood fired place, where we also got to take a close look at themassive adjustable grill. As a bonus, it’s off Broadway so the line was much shorter. (If you want lines, stick to Broadway and Caroline.)

Seneca Grill

Wood Fired Grill at Seneca

Do a search for “Chowderfest” at right for previous years’ posts with many more tips for surviving this annual event. At its heart it is still a chance to see what kitchens that throw themselves into the project can do with a few ingredients and a dixie cup. For the reasonable investment of a dollar bill, you can be introduced to places that you might never have visited on your own. (We went back at 6 to Solevo for their dollar oysters–“they’re big” the receptionist promised–and all day happy hour; oysters were done and the bar was too packed to enter, but the oysters return on Wednesdays and so shall we.)

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Hot and Not at the 2020 Winter Fancy Food Show

We’re just back from the 2020 Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco, where the focus as you might expect was on “plant-based” everything. Impossible and Beyond weren’t there, but there were plenty of meat alternatives as well as products that never had any animal protein to begin with jumping on the bandwagon. We have several reports coming up, but first a quick look at the products that caught our eye.


Oat milk products were everywhere, and why not? It’s delicious, adaptable and completely meat- and dairy-free. It’s also quite high in sugar, but never mind.


Fat Bombs are the ultimate keto snack, with 3g protein and 9 g fat per serving. Not in love with the name, though, and the high fat content gave it a greasy mouthfeel.


Like cake? Like popcorn? Here’s a popcorn cake, embedded with confetti sprinkles.


The Jelly Belly folks always come up with a new novelty snack. This time it was a tasting challenge of five increasingly hot chile flavors, from jalapeño to Carolina Reaper. We only made it as far as Sriracha.


Crapola finds a new benefit, regularity, in a tired product category, granola. They were passing out “I pooped today” bumper stickers.


Calabrese chilis are a thing, both whole like this display and ground. Add the to a pasta dish. The only problem I found was that they varied widely in heat level, so taste before you serve.


An example of bandwagon-jumping. Pasta is made with wheat, so of course it’s plant-based!


This private-label tequila company came up with some terrific bottle designs with a Day of the Dead motif. They also had some awesome aged mezcal hidden under the counter.


Matcha was big, as was tea in general. Also lot of mochi ice cream. A former trend that was hardly visible: quinoa.

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Recipe: Chinese-Style Pulled Pork

Chinese-Style Pulled Pork

Chinese-Style Pulled Pork, just waiting to be paired up with some Thai-Style Cole Slaw

Chinese-Style Pulled Pork is a natural for the Instant Pot, cooking to melting tenderness in just an hour. We started with this recipe but added a sweet-and-sour element plus star anise which gives it the funk of a HK noodle dish. The natural accompaniment is, of course, a cole slaw with Asian flavors like this one. Makes enough to feed a crowd, 12 servings or so.

Ingredients:
1 pork shoulder, approx 4 lbs, cut in half (if it has a blade bone that’s a natural point of separation)
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup chicken stock or water
1/2 cup soy sauce
¼ c Chinkiang vinegar or unsweetened rice vinegar or white vinegar
¼ c Shaoxing wine (optional)
¼ c oyster sauce (optional)
¼ c brown sugar
2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin
8-10 garlic cloves, peeled
2 t powdered cumin
2 t paprika (use smoky Spanish paprika if you have it)
1 t five spice powder
3 heads star anise
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 T cornstarch

Method: pat dry the pork roast and salt and pepper liberally. Add oil to the inner bowl of the Instant Pot and heat on Sauté setting. Brown the pork in two batches, turning so all sides come into contact with the oil and get a crispy sear. Remove to a plate and add onion, garlic and ginger. Sauté till fragrant then add cumin, paprika, five spice and star anise and heat till fragrant, stirring frequently. Turn off Instant Pot.

Add liquids and brown sugar and stir to dissolve sugar. Add pork and seal; pressure cook on high for 60 minutes with natural release.

When done, pork will be falling apart tender. Remove the pieces carefully to a chopping board and chop into bite size pieces, discarding bone and outer layer of fat. Strain solids out of the cooking stock and return it to the Instant Pot. Use Sauté setting to reduce somewhat. Remove a small amount of stock to a cup and mix with 2 T cornstarch till thoroughly emulsified without lumps. Add more liquid from the stock to create a smooth slurry, then return this to the Instant Pot and thicken, stirring constantly. Pour over reserved pork in a bowl and serve, over rice or in a Chinese style pulled pork sandwich with Asian cole slaw on a bun.

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Cavender’s Greek Seasoning

Cavenders Greek Seasoning

We’ve been using Cavender’s Greek Seasoning since the 80s at least, and the artwork on the label has not changed in all that time. The chef appears to be sticking a fork in the steak with his left hand and shaking on seasoning with his right. It’s anybody’s guess what those white things are on the grill; hopefully they are not folds of his jacket.

Cavender’s Greek Seasoning is something we always have in our kitchen. Although it’s advertised as the only seasoning you need, we mainly use it on grilled meats, especially steaks. An ideal prep will have Cavender’s on one side of the steak, Burger House Seasoning Salt on the other.

So what is this versatile stuff? It comes not from Greece but from a remote corner of the Ozarks. And, though the artwork makes it look like it’s been around forever, in fact it was introduced a mere 50 years ago. Spike Cavender grew up in Texas and Oklahoma and loved to hunt wild game; he developed this mix as a seasoning for his bounty. He and his wife moved to the Ozarks to take advantage of the outdoor environment and started producing it for sale in 1969.

The ingredients in order are salt, black pepper, corn starch, garlic, MSG, oregano, flavor base seasoning (hydrolyzed soy protein, sugar, onion powder spice extractives), parsley and “five other spices.” The cornstarch is undetectable and you wonder why others (like Burger House) don’t use it to keep their product from clumping. And it’s heartwarming, if you love MSG as we do, to see it as the fifth ingredient. As to the mysterious “five other spices”, our guess is they include a bitter herb (mint or oregano) and thyme, though this copycat recipe adds cinnamon and nutmeg.

Cavendar’s is still a one-product company (unless you count a salt-free version of the seasoning) yet they manage to have nationwide distribution in a way that other specialty products, like Durkee’s, finds challenging. If your local stores don’t carry it, you can order multiple packs from the source or get a single package, enough to last a very long time, for under $5 on Amazon with Prime shipping. It’s well worth checking out, and you might want to try it on vegetables as well as a mix-in for gyro meat (ground lamb or beef or a combination).

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Recipe: World’s Easiest Thai Curry

Worlds Easiest Thai Curry

World’s Easiest Thai Curry, made with kabocha squash

The secret to the world’s easiest Thai curry is those little cans of Maesri curry paste you see in Asian markets. If you’ve passed on these because you assume they are the Thai equivalent of hamburger helper, think again. The flavors are rich and complex and using them you really can make a satisfying bowl of curry in less time than it takes to read this recipe. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
2 c cooked kabocha squash* or tofu chopped into bite size pieces (OR use chicken, shrimp, beef, pork or any combination of these items adding up to 2 c)
2 T neutral cooking oil
2 T chopped garlic
2 T thai curry paste (Maesri red, green or yellow curry)
½ c coconut milk (we use Chaokoh brand, which we’ve found to be most consistent)
¼ c finely chopped bitter herbs: Thai basil (best choice), basil, mint, cilantro or shiso
Lemon or lime wedges and additional bitter herbs for garnish (optional)

Mesri Curry Paste Cans

It may be we have too many cans of Maesri curry paste in our pantry. All you really need are the red, green and/or yellow curry.

Method: heat the oil in a wok or skillet and add garlic; sauté until fragrant. (If you are using meat protein, add it along with the garlic.) Add curry paste and spread it with a spoon to contact the oil and let it toast slightly. Add coconut milk and turn heat down to simmer. Stir to combine ingredients into a uniform sauce, a minute or so. Add cooked squash or tofu and cover; leave on stove at low heat till ingredients are heated through. Stir in bitter herbs and serve over rice with optional garnish.

*We’ve recently discovered the joys of this large (typical size is over 4 lbs), versatile gourd. To prepare, scrub the edible skin then heat in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes. This will soften the hard exterior so it’s easier to cut. Cool to safe handling temperature then cut in half and remove stem. Scoop out seeds (which you can toast if you like), cut the halves into 2-inch thick sections, toss with some melted butter or oil and salt and return to the oven on a sheet pan. Bake 30 minutes or until tender but not soft. Serve as a side dish or use as an ingredient in curry and other veg-friendly entrées.

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Recipe: Thai-Style Cole Slaw

Thai Style Cole Slaw

Thai-Style Cole Slaw

We came up with Thai-Style Cole Slaw for the carb-shunning Always Hungry diet. But it’s so good it’s joined our regular rotation. The sesame oil, rice vinegar, fish sauce and lime juice go together like a barbershop quartet, creating a perfect harmony. Makes 4-8 side dish servings.

8 c shredded cabbage or cole slaw mix
2 T toasted sesame oil
1 T rice vinegar
1 T fish sauce*
1 T fresh lime juice
1 t Kosher salt
½ t ground pepper
½ t crushed red pepper or to taste
¼ c roasted mixed nuts or peanuts
3 green onions, sliced into rounds, white and some of the green

Method: mix all ingredients except nuts and taste for seasoning. It should have a balanced flavor profile, not too salty or tart. Top with nuts and serve immediately.

*We tried it without fish sauce, thinking this is the one ingredient not everybody has in their cabinets, but it really is essential. If you need to buy some, get Red Boat.

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Yummy (the 50s called, and it wants you to eat its tuna loaf)

Yummy is a new song and video in which the shape-shifting Justin Bieber is seen cavorting with various 50s-inspired dishes and Jello molds. And my Yelp friend Eric T has alerted me to a Buzzfeed compendium called “21 Truly Upsetting Vintage Recipes” which features such gems as Ham and Bananas Hollandaise, recipe here. Where are these creepy foods coming from?

It seems the 50s are back, with Tuna and Jello Pie taking its place alongside such icons/memes as the iron lung and Our Friend The Atom. But why? To the observer, it seems like many of these dishes represented a conspiracy among home economists and food stylists to foist bizarre foods onto the American household which even the most ambitious homemaker would never come up with on her own. Often they featured sponsoring products, like Hellman’s Mayonnaise or Jello, and not a few highlight variety meats that were very cheap at the time. Some of us have spent a lifetime putting those memories behind us and it’s upsetting to see a new generation bringing them back, ironically or not.

But wait. What if some of these dishes are actually good? A visitor to the Highland Park Cafeteria will be greeted by any number of delightful aspics, jiggling and gleaming like a beached jellyfish in the sun. My grandmother’s recipe for Carrot Pineapple Jello is both easy and tasty. And let us not forget Amish Pickled Tripe in Aspic. If a new generation discovers the delights of congeals, maybe that’s okay.

Eric also pointed me to Mid-Century Menu, a site that does taste testing on vintage recipes by serving them to a pliable husband. It’s a treasure trove of old newspaper clippings, Jello art through the ages and whatnot and you should definitely check it out, especially this creepy video for Frosty the Slaw Man.

Perfection Salad

Perfection Salad. Yummy!

Meanwhile, here’s a recipe for “Perfection Salad” which reads just fine and only becomes repulsive when you view the Great American Recipes* photo which looks like shards of random vegetables were dumped into a knight’s helmet which was then filled with Jello, chilled, and tossed into the shrubbery. Why not put a toe in the water, and try it tonight?

Perfection Salad

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 can (12 oz) apple juice
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 cup shredded carrot
1 cup sliced celery
1 cup finely shredded cabbage
1/2 cup chopped green pepper
1 can (4 oz) chopped pimiento

Method: Combine gelatin, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan and mix well. Add 1 cup water. Heat over low heat, stirring constantly, until sugar and gelatine are dissolved. Remove from heat.  Stir in apple juice, lemon juice, vinegar, and 1/4 cup cold water. Pour into medium bowl. Refrigerate 1 hour, or until mixture is consistency of unbeaten egg white.

Add carrot, celery, cabbage, green pepper, and pimiento; stir until well combined. Turn into decorative, 1 1/2-quart mold. Refrigerate 4 hours,or until firm.To unmold: Run small spatula around edge of mold; invert onto serving plate. Place hot dishcloth over mold; shake gently to release. Repeat, if necessary. Lift off mold. refrigerate until ready to serve.
Makes 8 servings.

*In another life, your correspondent was responsible for the writing in the “control” direct mailing to sign up customers for this recipe card continuity program, meaning many thousands of people bought in as a result of our efforts. Yummy!

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Recipe: Octopus Lentil Pesto Salad

Octopus Lentil Pesto Salad

Octopus Lentil Pesto Salad

Octopus Lentil Pesto Salad seems sophisticated and complicated, thanks to the dramatic combination of tastes and textures. But it comes together in just a few minutes when you have the core ingredients on hand. Serves 2 as an entree or 4 as part of a mezze platter.

Ingredients:
½ cup black or green lentils
1 c water or chicken stock
Kosher salt to taste
½ c  broiled baby octopus, chopped
¼ c pesto

Express Octopus Lentil Salad

Your octopus dish won’t look as spectacular as this from L’Express in Montreal, but it won’t take hours to prepare either. Photo from Shawn on Foodspotting.

Method: cook lentils in water or stock until tender, about 15 minutes, adding more liquid if needed. Taste for seasoning and add salt as needed. Mix in pesto and set aside to let flavors blend as the salad cools to room temperature. Serve.

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