Grilling with the BlueStar Platinum range

Grilling with the BluesStar Platinum Range

Grilling with the BluesStar Platinum Range.


My BlueStar Platinum range came with a “cartridge” which can drop in to replace two of the burners. It consists of a metal frame which can accommodate either a cast iron griddle or a broiler grate; the grate also has a stainless steel v-shaped diffuser that sits on top of the flame to even out the heat and keep fat and liquids from dripping directly into the burners.

BlueStar Grill Heating

The grill heating up. Be sure your exhaust system is turned on to HIGH!

I’d tried the broiler when I first got the range, using the manufacturer’s directions to turn the underlying burners to high to preheat it then turn down the flame. The grate was way hotter than I wanted it to be. This time I applied the home griller’s technique of heating to the point where you could not hold your open hand, palm down, over the grill for more than a second or two.

Shishitos and Squash

Shishitos and Squash on the grill.

First on the grill were some slices of yellow squash. Good to start with something other than a costly piece of meat. They were quickly coated in olive oil that had been flavored with salt, pepper and herbes de provence. Then some shishito peppers… should have used a basket for these, as I lost a few between the grates.

CAB Top Sirloin on Grill

Top sirloin at the turn. Grill marks a little more aggressive than I’d like.

Finally a CAB top sirloin, a little less than 1 ½ inches thick. Dipped it in the same seasoned oil to prevent sticking then salt and pepper on the grill. These grill marks are just a little too aggressive; I’ll back off next time.

This sample is a nice medium rare, though you can see one side is cooked a bit more than the other. And it’s trimmed from the outside so it’s a little more well done than the center of the steak, which was rare but not bloody just as we like it.

Medium Rare Taste Test

The finished product… medium rare on the edges, rare ion the middle.

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Recipe: Sumac Onions

Sumac Onions

Sumac Onions.

Dominic Colose, who runs an excellent middle eastern restaurant in our
town, recently professed his love of sumac onions in a Facebook post. Research revealed that most sumac onion recipes use red onions and lots of parsley, but Dominic’s photo showed gleaming white slices with minimal adornment and that’s what we tried. The result was beyond excellent. Use as a condiment on your mezze platter as well as with hamburgers and just about any place you would use raw onion.

Ingredients:
1 medium onion (sweet Vidalia type)*
1 T ground sumac
¼ c finely chopped parsley
2 T fresh lemon juice
½ t Kosher salt

Method: peel the onion then slice in half lengthwise (stem to root) and slice each half into half-moon rings ¼ to ½ inch thick. You should end up with about 2 c. Mix in a glass bowl with all other ingredients and massage with your fingers so onion pieces absorb the spices. Allow to macerate an hour or so then taste for seasoning (we think the base seasoning is perfect). Will keep a couple of days in refrigerator; the second day is even better.

*If you use regular yellow onions with a harsh, eye-burning effect consider blanching them quickly before you proceed with the recipe.

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How to make bottled salad dressing 10x better

Hotel Saiad Dressing Kit

Trader Joe Romano dressing + balsamic vinegar: how to make bottled salad dressing 10x better

It’s easy to make bottled salad dressing 10x better. It’s also quick and virtually free, because you probably have the key ingredient on hand. (I am staying in a hotel at the moment but luckily there is a bottle of said ingredient.) So let’s get started.

First, you need the bottled salad dressing. Products that claim to be vinaigrettes (“oil and vinegar”) are best for this though it will work for creamy dressings like thousand island and bleu cheese. Orange-y french dressing, not so much; but we have another hack for that. For our example we’re going to use Trader Joe’s Caesar Romano.

Now, dress your salad as you normally would… but drizzle on some vinegar before you serve. Wine vinegar (white or red), balsamic vinegar, cider vinegar all would work… just not white vinegar that has an acrid taste.

Taste… and see if you don’t agree that your bottled salad dressing is now 10x better! This works because commercial salad dressings are intentionally milder than they should be; they are calibrated for the broadest possible audience and the producers don’t want to lose customers who think it’s too tart.

Bonus hack: sprinkle on a bit of black pepper if you want an extra kick. (But not salt… these dressings are likely over salted already.) And this works especially well with “French” dressing, as well with vinaigrettes.

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Food for Thought: Dainty Desserts for Dainty People

Dainty Desserts for Dainty PeopleDainty Desserts for Dainty People is available for download from archive.org, aka The Wayback Machine. It won’t cost you a penny, though you should consider making a contribution to support their work and help insure such treasures continue to be accessible.

In 1915 when this booklet was published, there was no such thing as pre-flavored jello. You had your choice of Knox Sparkling Gelatine #1 and Knox Sparkling Gelatine #3 (#2 is never spoken of). Each contains two envelopes that will make one quart of a jelled product; each contains an envelope of Pink Vegetable Coloring should you feel the urge to dye your product; #3 also includes an envelope of Lemon flavoring and thus is Acidulated.

There are quite a number of basic recipes for such treats as Jellied Prunes and Rhubarb Jelly (both on p 9), but we’re most drawn to recipes that seek to reproduce traditional dishes in gelatin (like Bavarian Cream, p 11) or use the medium in wildly creative ways. Marshmallow Crème (p 14), for example, has you beat egg whites into a gel base (hence “marshmallow”), divide the result into thirds, then add the pink coloring to one batch, melted chocolate to a second and lemon to the third for a result much like Neapolitan ice cream.

As a bonus, Dainty Desserts for Dainty People includes guidelines on how to set a table, how to seat guests and how to serve a formal meal. (“When dinner is announced the host should enter the dining room with the guest of honor. The hostess with the man guest of honor [sic] should be the last to enter. The guests should stand back of their chairs until the hostess is seated, and each man should adjust the chair for the lady he is escorting and see that she is comfortably seated before he takes his place at her side.”)

It is their hope, say the publishers, that “with the aid of this little book the housewife will find the making of a great variety of appetizing, nourishing and attractive dishes easier and more pleasant.” Check it out!

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Baguette tricks and techniques from King Arthur Baking Education

Quick Baguettes

Baguette tricks and techniques produced some pretty decent loaves.

We traveled to Norwich, VT a few weeks ago for the half-day “Beauty and the Baguette” class at the stste-of-the-art King Arthur Baking Education Center. We’ve taken a more intensive baguette class there in the past and mainly wanted to experience a live vs remote class after so many Zoom sessions during the pandemic. As it turned out, we learned quite a few new baguette tricks and techniques which we’ll share in this post.

The importance of calculating desired dough temperature (DDT). Yeast is happiest at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, which is probably a bit higher than your kitchen and ingredients and certainly well above the temperature of tap water. Solution: heat the water to a bit warmer than body temperature to offset the lower-than-ideal temperatures of the other ingredients. A much more exact water temperature formula is here, but you can get pretty close with the simple body temperature hack.

Kneading wet dough on the bench without flour. This is a bit show-offy, but fun to master and you will end up with a perfectly clean bench when you’re done. After your initial mixing of dough in a bowl, dump it out onto the bench and make repeated downward chops into the wet mass using a bench knife held at a slight tilt, with the knife parallel to your body and the top closer to you than the bottom of the blade. Move from front (closest to you) to back, making half a dozen chops, the flip the dough mass with the bench knife and repeat till the flour is fully incorporated into the liquid. This takes the place of autolyze but only requires a minute or so.

Then, knead the dough using this “baby animal” technique. Imagine the dough mass is a baby animal lying on its back, its left side facing you. Pick it up by its “arms” by pinching the dough between first finger and thumb, one hand on each side of the dough. Lift the dough off the bench then make a quarter-turn clockwise. Drop the bottom of the dough (the baby animal’s “feet”) onto the bench then fold over the top; repeat. At first this process will be very messy but as gluten develops it will be much smoother and the dough will develop an even vs ragged surface. If dough sticks to the bench, scrape it off with the bench knife and incorporate back into the dough mass. After 7 minutes the dough should be sufficiently developed and you can scrape it clean from the bench and transfer to the mixing bowl for proofing.

Some extra steps for consistent, well-shaped baguettes. Shaping is an ongoing problem for home bakers who don’t make enough baguettes to develop muscle memory. These little tricks should help. A/when you flatten the dough ball you have proofed onto the bench to form a baguette, pull out the corners so you have a true rectangle; this insures consistent shaping for the next step. B/make a letter fold (1/3 of the flattened dough folded down top to bottom), then turn the dough 180 degrees and repeat. Then (this is the new part) insert your left index finger into the center of the flattened dough on the right edge and fold top and bottom over it with the other hand. Repeat, moving down the entire length of the dough, then pinch the edges to form a seal. C/when rolling out the baguette to full length after B/, start with one hand in the middle and create a “dog bone” that is thinner in the center than on the ends. Then use both hands to roll out and extend the dough to the thickness of the center section.

Bakers Couche

Bakers Couche with shaped baguettes.

Additional techniques for proofing and loading baguettes. We have a very well used proofing cloth (it’s heavy linen, purchased at King Arthur years ago) that is saturated with old flour so sticking is unlikely. Position the cloth (“couche”) in a half sheet pan with its side overlapping the long edge of the pan. Sift fresh flour onto the top of this (the sifting makes sure it is evenly coated) and transfer your fully formed baguettes onto the cloth one at a time, then fold along the length of the cloth to make a ridge and load the next baguette until all are loaded, then fold over the excess cloth to cover them while they are proofing. (If you have no extra cloth because you’re making lots of baguettes, cover with kitchen towels.)

Managing seams when transferring baguettes. You want the seam side (that edge you pinched shut in your initial shaping of the baguette) facing DOWN when baking for the best oven spring. To insure this, have the seam side DOWN when you load the formed baguettes into the proofing cloth. When they are fully proofed, flip them out of the proofing cloth by rolling them onto a piece of light plywood cut a little longer and wider than your baguette, so the seam side is UP. Then flip them again onto the surface you will use for baking so the seam side is once again DOWN.

These few baguette tricks and techniques helped us make some of our best loaves ever. Hope they work for you as well.

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Recipe: King Arthur Quick Baguettes

King Arthur Quick Baguettes

King Arthur Quick Baguettes.

King Arthur Quick Baguettes can be ready in just a few hours (after you make the poolish the night before, which takes maybe 2 minutes) so you can start after lunch and have delicious warm baguettes to serve with dinner. The recipe, as well as a few new techniques, comes from the half-day “Beauty and the Baguette” class we took at the Norwich Baking Education Center after live classes resumed in Summer 2021. Makes 2 very long baguettes or 3 medium baguettes to fit a half sheet pan (length about 17 inches).

Ingredients:
For the poolish:
150 g warm water (a little hotter than body temperature, 105 degrees or so)
150 g all purpose flour
Pinch of active dry yeast
For the final dough:
Fully proofed poolish
312 g all purpose flour*
177 g warm water (a little hotter than body temperature, 105 degrees or so)
1 t active dry yeast
1 ½ t Kosher salt

Equipment for baking:
Half sheet pan
Foil baking pan (like for Thanksgiving turkey) with exterior dimensions similar to the half sheet pan

Quick Baguette Crumb

Very happy with this crumb. It’s open without too many big holes, so it’s perfect for spreading cheese or paté.

Method: make the poolish the night before (or very early in the morning for an afternoon bake). Add water to yeast in a large bowl and stir to dissolve, then mix in flour till smooth, It will start with the consistency of thick pancake batter but will thin out and become light and bubbly, with a yeasty aroma, as it proofs. Once the poolish is fully proofed it can be used immediately or held for 4-14 hours.

To make the final dough add the final four ingredients to the poolish and mix with a spoon or plastic bowl scraper until uniform. Autolyze 20 minutes or so, then turn out onto a floured board and knead till gluten is well developed, 8 minutes or so. The dough will be very yet at first but try to avoid adding flour by using a light touch in kneading. Proof in a warm room 90 minutes with one fold or additional kneading step at 45 minutes.

Form into 2 or 3 balls of equal size and rest for 20 minutes, then roll out into baguettes. Proof in a floured baker’s cloth, with ridges formed to separate the loaves, until the dough just begins to spring pack when you poke it with your finger. (If it does not spring back it’s not ready; if it springs back all the way it is overproofed.) Meanwhile, heat oven to 500 degrees along with a sheet pan you will use for baking.

When oven is hot, carefully transfer the hot sheet pan to a trivet and sprinkle with semolina flour to prevent sticking. Load the loaves onto the sheet pan by rolling them onto a plank of plywood or carefully transferring with your hands. Slash the tops, spray with water for a crispy crust if you like, and cover with the inverted foil baking pan. Bake for 15 minutes, remove the aluminum baking pan, and bake another 15 minutes until golden brown. Baguettes when done should have a crackling crust and a hollow sound when thumped.

*If you like, replace about 50g of the APF with einkorn (our choice), spelt, whole wheat or another darker/denser flour.

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Recipe: Crab Hush Puppies

Crab Hush Puppies

Crab Hush Puppies.

For a Southern twist on surf-and-turf, offer Crab Hush Puppies with chicken fried steak! And for even more fun, substitute 1 c finely chopped okra for the crab! The base recipe comes from The Kitchen and it’s solid but a bit dry; provide some lemon butter or remoulade for dipping or our favorite from the Sycamore Inn and San Dimas CA: maple syrup! Makes about 18 hush puppies.

Ingredients:
1 ½ c fine- or medium-grind cornmeal
½ c all-purpose flour
1 ½ t Kosher salt teaspoons kosher salt
1 ½ t baking powder
½ t baking soda
1 c grated onion (about half an onion, grated on the coarse side of a box grater)
1 large egg
1 c buttermilk or a bit more if needed
1 c lump crabmeat, broken up into small pieces*
½ c finely chopped chives or parsley (optional; this is for color more than favor)
Oil for deep-frying

Method: thoroughly mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. Beat egg then blend with buttermilk and add to dry mix. Stir to blend; it should be a bit thicker than thick pancake batter and should hold onto a spoon turned upside down. Mix in crabmeat and chives/parsley then rest the batter for a few minutes while you heat the oil.

Heat cooking oil to 365 degrees. Form the hush puppies with a tablespoon; scoop up a round of batter that stands up in the spoon and carefully slide into the oil. Repeat, frying a few at a time without crowding. Fry the hush puppies, turning from time to time, till they are a dark golden brown, about 4-6 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. (Properly cooked, the hush puppies should absorb very little oil.) Continue until all puppies are done and keep warm in a low oven, if desired, while you prepare other dishes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

*We used one of those 6-oz cans from the fishmonger’s cold case, but fresh crabmeat would be even better.

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Recipe: Perfection Salad

Perfection Salad

Perfection Salad.

Perfection Salad is a good example of the creative congeals, aka aspics, that we like to serve down south. The original recipe was published in a recipe book called Dainty Desserts for Dainty People (that’s us for sure!) published in 1915. Ours uses sugar free lemon jello, and adds carrots which greatly enhance the eye appeal. It’s also a bit sweet, so you might consider substituting an envelope of unflavored gelatin for one of the lemon jello packets. Makes 16 servings and can be halved if you like.

Ingredients:
2 packages sugar free lemon jello
1 c finely shredded cabbage
1 c finely shredded carrots
1 c celery, finely diced (macedoine)
½ c red or green bell pepper or a combination, finely diced (macedoine)
½ c white vinegar
3 ½ c water (2 c boiling, 1 ½ c cold)
1 t salt
Mayonnaise for topping

Method: mix the jello with boiling water according to package directions and stir till gelatin is completely dissolved. Add cold water, white vinegar and salt and chill until it starts to set, a couple hours. Mix in vegetables and transfer to individual molds or an 8” square pan. Chill until thoroughly set. Unmold for serving; if you are using a square pan use a spatula to cut into servings and then lift out of the pan. (For easier unmolding place the jello pan in a larger pan with enough hot water to come close to the top of the jello pan; leave for a minute then test with a spatula. As soon as the jello separates easily from the pan, remove it from the hot water and cut into servings.) Serve with a dollop of mayonnaise (preferably Kewpie.)

Perfection Salad

Here’s the original recipe for Perfection Salad, from Dainty Desserts for Dainty People. “Sparkling Gelatine” was a product that included a packet of lemon flavoring the homemaker could add if desired.

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Fourth of July barbecue 2021

Grilled Corn

We’re making our Fourth of July grilled corn like this from now on.

We celebrated our Fourth of July early this year to accommodate some out of town visitors. The highlight was sweet local corn grilled with a technique we’ll use from now on. The ears in their husks had the ends lopped off, then we peeled back the leaves to remove as much of the silk as possible. The leaves were restored (a few of the did fall off) and the ears were soaked in salty water for a couple of hours. The husks charred but did not burn on a very hot grill, providing steam to perfectly cook the corn while just enough of the niblets were exposed to get some nice caramelization here and there. No condiments needed, not even butter.

We also made Cornell-Style Grilled Chicken using all thighs; one of the benefits of this recipe is that it only requires a 2 hour marinade so it can be prepared on short notice. We grilled some asparagus after soaking it briefly in the marinade liquid, and rounded out the meal with a tub of Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw.

Easy, quick and good. Because this is a year to keep the stress level as low as possible. Hope you are equally satisfied with your holiday weekend grilling,

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Recipe: Kamala Harris Cheese Puffs (Gougéres)

Kamala Harris Cheese Puff

Kamala Harris Cheese Puffs (Gougéres)

Vice President Kamala Harris served Cheese Puffs at her first official dinner at the Naval Observatory. While she hasn’t said how she made them, recipe forensics suggest she might have followed the Tartine Bakery recipe since a/Tartine is in the Bay Area, where she lives; b/the recipe is readily available in the Tartine Cookbook;  c/our finished product looks very much like hers. Whether or not this is her recipe, it’s easy to make and delicious. Makes 8 large cheese puffs (gougéres) or quite a few small ones.

Ingredients:
1 ¼ c nonfat milk (don’t use regular because it will curdle)
10 T unsalted butter
1 T Kosher salt, plus additional for topping
1 c all purpose flour
5 large eggs, plus additional for topping
¾ c good Gruyere or Comté cheese, plus additional for topping, grated
1 t freshly ground black pepper*
1 T fresh thyme, off the stem, or 1 t dried thyme

Method: preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat the milk, butter and salt in a saucepan to a full boil (keep stirring so the milk doesn’t scald the side of the pan) then add the flour all at once and stir briskly till all lumps are incorporated. Remove from heat and cool to 145 degrees (use a meat thermometer to read or just wait a few minutes). Beat in the eggs, one at a time, waiting till each is fully incorporated before adding the next. Mix thyme, black pepper and ¾ c grated cheese into the dough.

Stabenow Cheese Puffs

Sen. Debbie Stabenow took this picture of the VP’s cheese puffs.

Transfer using a large spoon to a half-sheet pan covered with a silpat or parchment paper; make 8 mounds of equal size and shape them into nice hemispheres with your spoon. (You can also pipe the dough onto the pan using a pastry bag and make as many as you like.) Beat the egg (you can also use an egg white, and reserve the yolk for another use) with a pinch of salt and brush onto the tops of the mounds, then sprinkle a little grated cheese on each. Bake 35-45 minutes until puffed up and cooked to a golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature; if you’re not serving right away, prick the top of each gougére with a toothpick so it doesn’t deflate as quickly.

*The original Tartine gougére has a definite peppery bite, but the Vice President might have toned it down out of consideration for conservative tastes.

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