The original Bruichladdich is back.

Bruichladdich

In the Bruichladdich distillery, from the 2013 New Yorker article.

The other day we commented on how we tend to stick with “better” choices in food and drink, using under-$100 Islay Scotch whiskey as an example. What would we do if we had all the money in the world and no compunction about how to spend it? Well, we might spring for this $600 Bruichladdich which just popped up on K&L Wines…. And therein hangs a story.

Back in 2013 the New Yorker ran a beautiful piece (which was reprinted in their food issue this past fall 2021) on the current owner of Bruichladdich (pronounced “Brook Laddie”), Mark Reynier. It seems that in 1994 Reynier had arrived at the gates of the distillery on a bicycle and asked if he could have a tour of the facility. But a sign indicated that the distillery was permanently closed, and when Reynier pressed the issue a worker inside the gate told him to “fuck off”.

It was then and there that Reynier resolved to buy the distillery and put it back into operation. As a London-based wine dealer with plenty of contacts in the industry, he actually had the knowledge and the resources to do so. In 2001 he and a consortium of investors bought Bruichladdich and began making whisky again. In 2011 they released the “Laddie Ten”, a $50 bottle (and thus within our price range) which they considered their flagship product. I hated it. Unlike all other Islays it is unpeated, which for me means it was short on flavor and unappealing at any price point.

Which is why I was so delighted that K&L has turned up a 1992 batch of Bruichladdich, from way back before the brewery closed. The review is unusually brief (maybe because few or no reviewers actually got to taste it) but compelling: “Black Art 9.1 marks the oldest Black Art released yet at 29 years of age. While the cask recipe of this 1992 distillate is a closely guarded secret, it is the bottled magic of mind and heart from Head Distiller Adam Hannett. Unpeated. Unparalleled.”

I am hoping that one of our readers will have the means and the initiative to buy a bottle. (You’d also have to be in a state where it can be shipped unless you pick it up yourself in CA, not a bad proposition.) If you do, please report back.

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Make your own mushroom powder.

Mushroom powder, theirs and our home-grated.

We got a gift of mushroom powder. It’s good stuff. You can shake it onto vegetables or meats in the pan for an extra dose of umami. You don’t actually taste the mushroom per se; rather it’s a bit salty and a bit… funky. If you’re opposed to using MSG (we aren’t!) it might give you a similar flavor kick.

And… you can make your own mushroom powder whenever you need it, assuming you have one of those flat packs of shiitakes from your Asian market. Simply grate it into your dish using a microplane or the finest mesh on your box grater. One shiitake, grated, was ample for a pound of salmon steaks.

Or… maybe you want to be a mushroom powder Santa? It’s quick and easy to grate and fill a few small jars with this stuff. (If you don’t have empty spice jars, dump out and clean the jars that have been sitting around far too long and get fresh spices from Penzey’s.)

Note: if you go on Amazon you’ll find similar pre-made products like this one, as well as bigger bags which folks seem to dump into their smoothies etc for health reasons. And I’m reminded that Trader Joe sells an umami mixture which contains salt and onion powder as well as mushroom. But why complicate things when you can make your own, on demand?

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Good Better Best

Rogue River Blue

Rogue River Blue, officially the best cheese in the world, on the shelf at Rainbow Grocery.

We had a local (upstate New York) discussion last week about Rogue River Blue, chosen as the world’s best cheese at the 2019/20 World Cheese Awards. Two respected friends and food lovers concurred that was their favorite cheese and wished they could get more of it. We happened to be in San Francisco, and took a picture of the abundant supply in the excellent cheese department at Rainbow Grocery. Our friends replied that the issue was not so much the actual scarcity as the price ($50/lb at Rainbow, more at many other sources) which kept them from enjoying it more often.

Is Rogue River Blue pricey because it’s scarce, or because it’s hard to make? Yes. We used to live in the Rogue Valley, actually, and recall Rogue River Blue as kind of a gadget cheese, showcasing two of the area’s agricultural specialties by soaking grape leaves in pear liqueur and wrapping them around a standard bleu. We passed on the cheese at Rainbow and bought Old Chatham Boujee Bleu, a fine New York product priced at a more affordable $20/lb.

Stilton Wrapper

The cheesemonger at Rainbow loves Neal’s Yard Stilton. Guess it’s pretty good because it’s gone! But Trader Joe’s Stilton serves our everyday needs just fine.

At Burnt My Fingers we pursue a consistent strategy on most of our food purchases—picking the in-the-middle option rather than the most luxurious, and avoiding bargain-basement picks. Certified Angus Choice is good enough for us in beef; no need for the extra marbling in Prime. We like to treat ourselves to a nice Islay at K&L Wines and picked up some bottles to bring back on the same trip; our ceiling is well under $100 when many of the most attractive bottles sell out at $200 or more, but we also avoid the Finlaggen at Trader Joe which is audacious, but can’t really compare with a truly smoky dram.

What are some foods for which we’ll willingly pay top dollar? Red Boat Fish Sauce, which amazingly has become a common item even though it’s twice as expensive as generic products. Durkee’s Dressing, of course. And Anson Mills beans and grains which give us the good feeling of supporting a heritage food project as well as good eats. But that’s pretty much the extent of our short list.

The late, lamented Sears Catalog had “Good, Better, Best” choices for many of their categories. Good was entirely serviceable, but a basic product that cut corners when possible. Best was clearly a splurge, well made of top quality components but with features you probably didn’t need. Better was the way to go because it gave you good value along with all the functionality you need.

Back to bleu cheese, we sadly haven’t seen Old Chatham Boujee Bleu at local cheesemongers here in New York. But we’re happy with the Stilton and Roquefort at Trader Joe, though their generic (and cheaper) bleu is too sharp and youthful for us. It’s not the best, but it’s better than just good.

What are your good, better, bests in food selections?

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Try something different for your holiday cookie exchange.

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads

Fennel Pollen Shortbreadss

Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts

Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts.

This year we decided to give cookies from Michelle Hines Abram Thibeault, godmother of our BlueStar stove and a renowned local baker, rather than making them ourselves. Her 2021 deadline has passed, so file that link away for next year. And try these three cookie recipes which will give you plenty for your holiday cookie exchange with extras to enjoy at home.

Dark Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle Chili Powder. Sweet and chocolate-y with just a hint of heat, what’s not to like? And making biscotti is a treat because you get to bake them twice, filling your kitchen with delicious smells each time. Do go to the trouble to roast and husk fresh hazelnuts; in fact, make some extras because they’re delicious and can be used in other bakes. Recipe here.

Christina Tosi's Corn Cookies

Christina Tosi’s Corn Cookies.

Christina Tosi’s Corn Cookies. These deceptively ordinary-looking but intensely flavored cookies are easy to make and an excellent introduction to Chef Tosi’s world. We used up our freeze dried corn and now use finely ground corn flour (NOT coarser cornmeal) which has become widely available; just be sure the flour is very fresh. Recipe here.

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads. Mm, butter. Mm, fennel. If you don’t have fennel pollen try grinding fennel seeds and doubling the amount. Don’t use fennel seeds straight up as that would interfere with the smooth texture of the shortbreads. Recipe here.

The best part? While the corn cookies are sturdy as a hockey puck (though much tastier), the shortbreads and biscotti are on the delicate side so you’re sure to end up with some imperfect pieces after you wrap up your holiday cookie exchange. Those are yours, as the baker, to gobble down without remorse!

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Taste test: Peg Leg Porker Bourbon

Peg Leg Porker

Peg Leg Porker White Label Bourbon with fascinating shards of BBQ.

What’s the best bourbon to drink with barbecue? Carey Bringle, pitmaster at Peg Leg Porker in Nashville, would probably say it’s his own.

To quote from the blurbage I received when asked if I would like to try a complimentary sample (full disclosure: I said yes indeedy!): “In 2016, Bringle founded Peg Leg Bourbon and its rich smoky notes remain unmatched as he’s a man who knows smoke better than most. His signature series of hickory, charcoal-filtered, straight Tennessee bourbons features 4-6 Year White Label, 8 Year Grey Label, 12 Year Black Label, and a Limited Edition 15 Year Pitmaster Reserve Label.

“Bringle recently brought home Gold, Silver and Platinum awards at this year’s SIP Awards’ International Spirit Competition. Peg Leg Bourbon was also awarded Gold, Double-Gold and Platinum medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.”

Peg Leg Same

My sample of Peg Leg Porker.

I tried the White Label straight up with some of our house-smoked brisket and it did indeed pair very well. (In the interests of remaining upright you might be advised to enjoy it in a cocktail, like the Pork & Stormy with Bacon-Washed Bourbon, recipe below.) It’s assertive but not harsh and while I did not specifically detect smoke as you would in a good Islay Scotch, it might be characterized as “Incredibly round and featuring classic bourbon aromas of vanilla, orange, bright cherry and complex oak.”

That description, with “hickory” possibly replacing “oak” is actually for another product, George Dickel 8 Year Old Bourbon Whiskey as marketed by the spirits experts at K&L Wines. Carey Bringle is described as a “bourbon ager” rather than a distiller, meaning he starts with whiskey from another source. Whiskey bloggers agree that source is George Dickel, so we couldn’t help a second taste test of Peg Leg against the 8 year old Dickel. We preferred the Peg Leg for extra complexity with some additional flavor notes. Picture being inside an ancient wooden smokehouse somewhere in the south so the boards are splitting and there is sunlight piecing the cracks in the walls with whorls of smoke appearing in the rays of sun.

However, the Peg Leg Porker White Label is identified as a 4-6 year old bourbon, not 8 year, so Bringle evidently buys young bourbon and ages it himself. And he does a fine job. It has a growing national distribution and, if your local liquor store doesn’t stock it, you are likely to be able to find a mail order source if that is allowed in your state.

And now here are those recipes to help you enjoy the bourbon while staying upright:

Pork & Stormy Cocktail
Ingredients:
Bacon-Washed Bourbon:
4 strips bacon
8 oz. Peg Leg Porker Bourbon
1 teaspoon pure cane syrup
Cocktail:
Ice cubes or shards
2 oz. Peg Leg Porker Bourbon
3 oz. ginger beer
Lime wedge, for garnish
Instructions:
Bacon-Washed Bourbon:
Fry the bacon in a cast-iron skillet until crispy.
Combine 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease and the bourbon in a plastic container with a lid (eat the bacon).
Shake thoroughly and freeze until the fat hardens, about 1 hour.
Remove from the freezer and strain the fat from the bourbon; discard the fat.
Add the cane syrup to the bourbon and mix well.
Decant into a covered glass jar or bottle and store in the refrigerator.
Cocktail: 
Fill a cocktail glass with ice.
Add the bourbon, top with the ginger beer, and stir.
Add a teaspoon of the bacon-washed bourbon to the top of the drink.
Garnish with a lime wedge.
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We made a turkey stuffing waffle sandwich!

Turkey Stuffing Waffle Sandwich

Turkey Stuffing Waffle Sandwich with turkey and all the fixin’s.

Leftover thanksgiving turkey sandwiches are the best, but why not a turkey stuffing waffle sandwich? That way you skip the carb overload from bread-on-bread but still get to enjoy your day after turkey treat.

We made a “batter” by mixing milk, flour and baking powder with our prepared stuffing (recipe here), then prepared two waffles in a standard waffle iron. They came out fine and we prepped one waffle with Durkee’s dressing and cranberry sauce; the other got hot gravy, turkey breast and wilted salad. We put the two together, cut into quarters, and were good to go.

Turkey Dressing Waffle Sandwich Assembly

Turkey Dressing Waffle Sandwich assembly.

The result is a massive sandwich you are unlikely to eat at one sitting; two quarters should be enough for most appetites. In the future we will probably do some modification of ingredients to make them more sandwich-able, for example diluting the gravy so it will seep into the cells of the waffle like melted butter. But we are happy with our first effort!

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Recipe: Turkey Stuffing Waffle

Turkey Stuffing Waffle

Turkey Stuffing Waffle as it comes out of the waffle iron.

Turkey stuffing waffles are a thing. Even Kenji is making one. But the recipes you find online have lots of caveats like be sure you spray lots of Pam on the waffle iron, and handle the waffle carefully so it won’t fall apart. Not this one! We combined our prepared/leftover stuffing with a light batter that holds it together, helps it rise slightly, and delivers a sturdy product you can even use to make a sandwich like we did. Recipe makes 2 waffles.

Ingredients:
1 large egg (or 2 small eggs)
¼ c milk
¼ all purpose flour
¾ t baking powder
3 c prepared stuffing (approximately; see below)

Method: beat egg and mix thoroughly with milk, flour and baking powder. Add approximately 3 c prepared stuffing; the stuffing should just absorb the batter without leaving liquid in the pan. Spoon into a preheated waffle iron; because this batter does not pour or expand you will just need to put a good amount into each of the quadrants of your iron (see photo below). Close the lid; push down hard and hold for 30 seconds or so till the ingredients are set and the top does not lift up when you let go.

Cook until the “done” light comes on then cook a little longer. You want the surface a little crispy vs soft. Serve hot with hot gravy and cranberry sauce on the side, or make into a Turkey Stuffing Waffle Sandwich.

Turkey Stuffing Waffle

This is the same waffle, “before”. You need to spoon the “batter” into the quadrants of the waffle iron in equal amounts because it will not pour like regular waffle batter.

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Recipe: Everyday Cole Slaw

Everyday Cole Slaw

Everyday Cole Slaw.

I was making some cole slaw to go with fried fish the other night and mentioned I was doing nothing special, just everyday cole slaw—actually I needlessly used a four-dollar synonym, “quotidian”, and my wife commented “to me, all cole slaw is quotidian”. When you have been married a long time and plan to stay married you have to ignore slights like that, plus I had brought it on myself by denigrating the product at hand.

The fact is, every cole slaw is unique and wonderful in its own way. We waxed poetic in a long ago post, The Miracle of Cole Slaw, and everything said therein is still true. This one follows the basic proportions for a slightly acidic dressing but with a couple of tricks: celery salt (you could also use ½ t celery seed and 1 t Kosher salt, if you don’t have celery salt) for added tang and red wine vinegar instead of the usual cider vinegar. Makes 8-12 servings.

Ingredients:
2 lbs green cabbage, shredded with a box grater
3 T mayonnaise
1 T buttermilk
1 ½ T red wine vinegar
1 t celery salt
½ t Kosher salt
½ t ground black pepper
2 green onions, sliced into rings, including some of the green

Method: add all other ingredients to shredded green cabbage and mix thoroughly. It will be a big dry, but the cabbage will throw off liquid as it cures. Refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

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Memories of Thanksgiving past

2017 Turkey

A memorable turkey from a past Thanksgiving.

We didn’t buy a turkey for Thanksgiving this year. Seeing as how prices are up and supplies are allegedly short (though there are plenty of birds, both generic and fancy, in our stores in upstate New York) we decided to defrost a bird we’ve been hoarding since before the pandemic. We switched it from freezer to fridge last Friday; if you’re planning to cook a frozen bird and it is still frozen you better get started right away. (We’re not food safety experts and not making a recommendation, but it seems like common sense that you can start the defrost process on the counter to speed it up, and transfer to the fridge once the outside reaches 39 degrees, the temp inside your refrigerator.)

In the spirit of using up stuff, we’re going to recycle our old Thanksgiving posts rather than writing a new one this year—a clips post of clips posts, as it were. In 2020 we talked about cooking your first turkey, which we figured a lot of people would do rather than dining with relatives during the pandemic. (That might be a good idea this year as well, with numbers spiking once again.) In 2019 it was how to have a successful Thanksgiving by making other people do the work. In 2017 it was about reducing the stress that many people experience when faced with cooking a complex meal for lots of critical in-laws.

Click any of the links and you’ll find tips for brining and cooking the bird, stuffing it, and dealing with the buy/make your own cranberry sauce conundrum. (We fondly remember our cranberry sauce taste test way back in 2012.) And for God’s sake don’t forget the Durkee’s dressing which you’ll need for those Friday morning turkey sandwiches.

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Taste test: Galbi vs Bulgogi

Galbi Grilling

Galbi on the grill!

In a previous post we described the parameters for our Galbi vs Bulgogi taste test. We’d use beef flanken ribs for the Galbi, and there was a nice prime top sirloin on sale at the same butcher so we picked that up for the Bulgogi. Feeling a little experimental, we also defrosted one of our supermarket packages of American-style short ribs cut along the bone, to try Maangchi’s more authentic Korean butterflying method. And we created our own “best of” marinade which you can find in our Galbi recipe post.

Bulgogi Grilling

Bulgogi grilling. Be careful it doesn’t fall through the grate!

The marinade ingredients went into the mini-chop and came out as a paste, which we rubbed into our sirloin and flanken ribs in the same bowl. Meanwhile, we prepared Maangchi’s no-soy marinade in which the butterflied ribs get lubricated with sesame oil, then a dry rub with sugar/salt/black pepper and sprinkled chopped green onion and garlic on top before they are rolled up. All meats marinated a little more than 2 hours, then it was time to fire up the grill in the BlueStar.

Galbi Plated

Galbi plated, with red lettuce and ssamjang sauce.

The winner was Galbi, of course, but not necessarily for their “luxury”. Bone-in ribs are just a lot easier to cook and a lot more fun to eat! The crosscut bones in flanken ribs act as an insulator, keeping the meat a little above the hot grill, and the marbling makes them easy to cook without burning or sticking. We had sliced the Bulgogi when not-quite-frozen to get really thin pieces, and now it proved quite a job to keep them from falling between the cracks of the grill or getting overdone. The butterflied full-size rib also cooked well though the no-soy marinade was less interesting than the other.

Maangchi Style Ribs

Maangchi-style spareribs, butterflied and rolled up to cure.

The KBBQ was served with two kinds of kimchi (our Happy Bellyfish recipe and a milder one made with daikon radish), haiga rice, red lettuce for wrapping around the meat, and an intensely flavorful ssamjang sauce from the Koreatown cookbook; ingredients and prep information in our Galbi recipe post.

I mentioned the Galbi was more fun to eat: you provide scissors at the table to cut the rib meat into bite-size pieces (in a restaurant the server might do this for you) with the bones on the side. Spread a bit of ssamjang on a lettuce leaf, wrap it around the meat: flavor explosion. And the riblets are a bonus to chew on when you’re done.

Galbi Bones

Galbi bones for gnawing.

The Bulgogi was fine, and we managed to avoid overcooking it. (And the marinade was a good flavor note, but it would have been overkill to prepare two slightly different recipes because the beef and char flavor predominated.) The butterflied Korean-style ribs cooked up well (though the bones are too big to gnaw on, alas) and we’d try those next time with our Korean marinade if flanken ribs are unavailable. But now we’re a big fan of non-authentic LA Galbi: along with Disneyland, the Hollywood sign and the La Brea Tarpits, they’re one more gift to the world from SoCal.

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