Recipe: Turmeric Cauliflower Pickles

Cauliflower Pickles

Turmeric Cauliflower Pickles in jar, ready for canning or refrigeration.

Comfort Kitchen, an excellent eatery in my home town, makes a nice cauliflower pickle with the yellow glow of turmeric/curry powder. Here is our interpretation. If you like, add some slices of red bell pepper for color and flavor variety. We used a bag of frozen cauliflower from the store, but of course you could start with florets from a fresh head of cauliflower. Makes 1 pint or a bit more.

Ingredients:
½ c water
½ c distilled white vinegar
10 oz bag frozen cauliflower
1 garlic clove
1 t turmeric powder
½ t curry powder
½ t kosher salt
½ t sugar
1 bay leaf

Method: place all ingredients except cauliflower in a small pan and bring to boil. Add cauliflower florets, bring back to the boil then turn off heat and cool to room temperature. Transfer to a pint canning jar adding more water/vinegar 50/50 if needed at top. Refrigerate at least 24 hours before trying.

If canning for future use: place the florets in a sterilized pint jar, then pour in the pickling liquid. Process in the usual manner. The water bath to seal the jars will tenderize the cauliflower.

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Food for Thought: The Fermentation School

Pumpkin Whole Utilization

Cover photo from Pumpkin Whole Utilization at The Fermentation School.

The Fermentation School, according to their website, is “ a collective of food authors and teachers who are fermenting a better food system for land, people, and the microbes on which we depend. Come on in and have a seat at our tables as we invite you into our spaces, share what we know and don’t, and make space for an open exchange of ideas and expertise. We believe that bringing fermentation into your life can open up infinite possibilities, and our commitment is to provide accessible courses that share our deepest knowledge, and to give you the confidence, skill, and empowerment to follow your own fermentation journey.”

They got our attention this morning with an email promising 50% off any fermentation course until [through?] Monday January 17 when you apply the code WELCOME50. We clicked to the catalog and were immediately drawn to the online recorded course Pumpkin Whole Utilization, taught by Jori Jane Emde. She is half, with Zac Pellacio, of the Fish and Game duo we met at the Saratoga Wine and Food Festival in 2013. Her creative projects then included making her own fish sauce and creating cocktails from wild ingredients foraged around Hudson, NY where the restaurant was located. (It’s now closed and Emde and Pellacio are now in New Mexico.)

But back to pumpkins. Emde’s course is going to teach you how to “make puree for baking, brine from the pumpkin water, vinegar from the roasted pumpkin skins, and miso with the seed and pulp.” Who could resist that, and the course is only $40 which means just $20 this weekend. We’re in! Yes, it may be a few months before we have another pumpkin on hand, but the course consists of “downloadable recipes + videos” and the FAQ says you can source a discussion group if you have questions and will have access to most courses for a full year.

The email mentions that the school was “created by two women fermenters and food system advocates” but in the spirit of a good collective does not say who they are. We suspect they are Kristen K. Shockey, who with her husband has published several fermentation books from her homestead near our old stomping ground in Jacksonville, OR; and Meredith Leigh, a whole animal butcher whose “How to Make Charcuterie” at $895 may be the most expensive course on the site. The fourth teacher mentioned by name is Claudia Lucero, who operates her own cheese business at urbancheesecraft.com.

There’s a lot to unpack here and the discount only lasts till Monday (and no, there is no affiliate relationship here; we really just wanted to share) so check it out!

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Recipe: Easy Gumbo

Easy Gumbo

Easy Gumbo made with shrimp. If you like, sprinkle on a little extra filé powder as a garnish.

Easy gumbo because this should not be a fussy (or expensive dish). The most important ingredient is patience. Take your time cooking the roux and then blending in some (high quality) stock. The roux is entirely capable of thickening on its own but we’ve added file (we got some really fresh stuff we wanted to try from Pinch Spice Market ) and okra for flavor. Serves 4.

Ingredients:

1 c bell pepper, stemmed, deseeded and chopped
1 c onion, peeled and chopped
1 c celery, chopped
6 T bacon fat, butter, neutral oil or a combination plus more for sautéing the veg
½ t thyme
¾ t Kosher salt
2 bay leaves
1 quart or more good stock: we used a combination of shrimp and chicken
3 T tomato paste
1 pound protein: peeled and deveined shrimp, cooked boneless chicken, maybe some andouille if you have it
2 T filé powder (optional)
½ c or more okra, fresh or frozen, sliced into ½ inch rings (optional)

Method: sauté bell pepper, onion and celery until wilted. Prepare the roux in a large saucepan you will later use to assemble the dish: melt fat and add flour, then cook slowly over very low heat till it is a medium brown and has a nutty aroma. Do not let it burn! This roux should be a little thinner than the roux you make for gravy; the oil will not quite absorb and you should still have some liquid in the dish. Add more oil if needed to achieve this texture. Roux should cook for at least 15 minutes. You might try putting the pan in an oven at low temperature to brown, after the oil and flour are thoroughly mixed.

Gumbo in Pot

Easy Gumbo in the pot.

Next, start adding stock to your roux. Do this a little at a time, and add more when the sauce starts to thicken. You will be surprised at how much liquid this roux can absorb. In fact, we re-heated our gumbo the next day and added still more liquid. This extensibility must have been welcome in the south in the old days if unexpected company dropped by.

When the stock is fully absorbed, add spices and tomato paste and cook for a good long time over low heat—at least an hour. At the end it should taste rich and delicious. Add protein and optional filé and okra and heat through. Serve hot, over rice. If you have leftovers, feel free to dump the rice (as well as any side dish vegetables) into the pot for the next day.

Roux vs okra vs filé: the origins of gumbo. Robert Moss has written two fine articles on gumbo for Serious Eats. This one traces the origins of gumbo and this one covers the more recent introduction of roux as the thickening agent. Gumbo means okra in several west African languages, hence the name of the dish and the use of okra as an ingredient and thickening agent. Filé or gumbo file is the powdered leaf of the sassafras tree which was used as a thickener by native Americans in the south. Moss’ hypothesis is that the two were used interchangeably by Black cooks in the plantation south, with the powder taking the place of fresh okra in seasons where the latter was unavailable.

Roux has a completely different trajectory. It first makes an appearance in gumbo recipes in the late 19th century, and was popularized as a gumbo thickener by Paul Prudhomme, the Cajun chef who developed his recipe at Commander’s Palace and then served at his own restaurant, K-Paul.

We’d hazard a guess that the roux-thickened version is the one most people are familiar with today (we’ve enjoyed it both at K-Paul and at Johnny Cace’s in Longview TX), with okra and filé powder added for flavor and texture. One day we will experiment with stews thickened with okra only, and filé powder only, but for now this easy gumbo made with roux will do quite nicely.

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Sau-Sea Horseradish is our house brand.

Sau See Horseradish

Sau-See Horseradish is just what these cubes of prime rib are waiting for.

When I worked as a prime rib cook and carver, we’d make a sour cream sauce with a dab of Atomic Horseradish. A little went a long way. Sniffed straight out of the jar it would make your eyes tear up, induce coughing, and cause a reaction as if someone had stuck a COVID swab all the way up your nose and into your brain. That’s what you want in a good horseradish, and Atomic is readily available on Amazon. (Affiliate link!)

Horseradish Sour Cream

You don’t need a recipe to make horseradish sauce. Just add horseradish to sour cream till your eyes start to water.

But for everyday use, Sau-Sea brand horseradish does an excellent job, and you can quite likely find it in the cold case next to your grocery store’s fish department. It’s definitely pungent, and far more potent than brands like Gold’s that look authentic but have barely a hint of heat. And we will not even talk about the shelf-stable varieties that have oil and other stabilizers added.

We use Sau-See horseradish for a sour cream dip for Christmas prime rib dinner (which is how this topic came up; our jar gave out at the worst possible time and luckily we found a replacement on Christmas eve) and cocktail sauce for shrimp or oysters. And that’s actually the extent of it. You don’t often use horseradish, but when you use it you want the good stuff.

 

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Is Wine Insiders the best wine club?

Wine Insiders Screen Shot

This is the offer Wine Insiders was running on Christmas 2021. Yours will be different, but by checking it out you will get on the mailing list. Or use our refer-a-friend link to save $100 on a $200 order.

As we were settling in to the winter wave of COVID in November 2020, we got an email from Wine Insiders: join us for a virtual wine tasting with Martha Stewart plus get 6 wines appropriate for holiday meals for as I recall $50 shipped. It was hard to scroll past and ultimately we took the bait. And guess what: the wines were quite acceptable, on the high end of under-$20 bottles, and Martha did a stellar job of engaging and sharing with us during the Zoom session.

Is Wine Insiders the best wine club? That would be hard to judge from a Google search; I’ve never seen so many ads and so much clickbait around a simple query. Also, Wine Insiders does not fit the definition of a “club” because they do not ship until you ask them to. Yes, your inbox will swell with promotions but you can regard them lightly till you see the one that strikes your fancy. By contrast, Winc enrolls you subtly and automatically when you place your initial order. You have to choose wines for future shipments based on their algorithm but if you don’t choose they will simply bill your credit card at the appropriate interval; a family member found she had to order a case or more of wines on a deadline or see her “credits” (which she had paid for) disappear.

Recently, we decided to order again from Wine Insiders. It is possible, but difficult, to order direct from the website and pay a marked up “retail” price. Instead, we opted for a case highlighting French regionals, and we added a couple of chardonnays to qualify for a bonus of a deluxe fancy wine opener (more on that in a moment). The average price per bottle was again under $10, shipping included. The wines arrived with breathtaking speed, maybe 2-3 days from order to arrival. The case is so heavy that the person receiving the wine may need to unpack it at the front door rather than lifting it and carrying it inside.

How are they (or any mail order wine shipper) making money with these deals? A continuity program like Winc or Wine Insiders’ sister operation, the Martha Stewart Wine Club, relies on inertia: you will continue to get the wines unless you cancel and there may be a higher price for subsequent shipments. Wine Insiders’ under-$10 pricing for voluntary purchases is a real outlier. You’re not going to find these bottles in your local store; they’re more likely surplus production from wineries that also bottle wine under their own labels. But still.

If there’s a negative to Wine Insiders, it’s the customer service. Due to some computer issues, the promised corkscrew did not actually get attached to our order. We contacted customer service, they promised to send it separately, it never arrived. We were then offered a $15 credit to a future order which seemed miserly since the stated value of the premium was $50. They responded by raising the offer to $25. We replied we would rather wait for the item we had been promised and we pointed out that, even though they said it was out of stock, it continues to be included in current promotions. No response to that.

Wine Insiders Shipping Box

A case of Wine Insiders wines was too heavy to make it into the house and was offloaded on the front steps.

Also, you are not going to get any romancing (such as a guide with room for your tasting notes) with your order; the only materials enclosed with our shipments were brochures for other promotions. You need to save the URL of the promotion you ordered from, which will include descriptions of the wines, so you can refer back when you open them.

In conclusion, we are satisfied with the wines, love the pricing, but are concerned that the corner-cutting means Wine Insiders may be operating on a dangerously thin profit margin. Be sure to keep track of your credit card billing (or, better yet, pay with PayPal which protects you if something goes wrong).

Update: turns out Wine Insiders DOES have a wine club. It’s called the Wine Insiders Club Experience, and from the FAQ it appears to operate like other continuity programs in the industry. Not sure how we escaped this with our initial order and got placed into the non-club bucket; if you buy please check the fine print.

Also, if you decide to order from Wine Insiders and want to support this blog, here’s a refer-a-friend link that will give you $100 off a $200 order. (The actual web address is http://fbuy.me/v/chef_47 ) Not sure if it will work with the other discounts, so caveat emptor.

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The original Bruichladdich is back.

Bruichladdich

In the Bruichladdich distillery, from the 2013 New Yorker article.

The other day we commented on how we tend to stick with “better” choices in food and drink, using under-$100 Islay Scotch whiskey as an example. What would we do if we had all the money in the world and no compunction about how to spend it? Well, we might spring for this $600 Bruichladdich which just popped up on K&L Wines…. And therein hangs a story.

Back in 2013 the New Yorker ran a beautiful piece (which was reprinted in their food issue this past fall 2021) on the current owner of Bruichladdich (pronounced “Brook Laddie”), Mark Reynier. It seems that in 1994 Reynier had arrived at the gates of the distillery on a bicycle and asked if he could have a tour of the facility. But a sign indicated that the distillery was permanently closed, and when Reynier pressed the issue a worker inside the gate told him to “fuck off”.

It was then and there that Reynier resolved to buy the distillery and put it back into operation. As a London-based wine dealer with plenty of contacts in the industry, he actually had the knowledge and the resources to do so. In 2001 he and a consortium of investors bought Bruichladdich and began making whisky again. In 2011 they released the “Laddie Ten”, a $50 bottle (and thus within our price range) which they considered their flagship product. I hated it. Unlike all other Islays it is unpeated, which for me means it was short on flavor and unappealing at any price point.

Which is why I was so delighted that K&L has turned up a 1992 batch of Bruichladdich, from way back before the brewery closed. The review is unusually brief (maybe because few or no reviewers actually got to taste it) but compelling: “Black Art 9.1 marks the oldest Black Art released yet at 29 years of age. While the cask recipe of this 1992 distillate is a closely guarded secret, it is the bottled magic of mind and heart from Head Distiller Adam Hannett. Unpeated. Unparalleled.”

I am hoping that one of our readers will have the means and the initiative to buy a bottle. (You’d also have to be in a state where it can be shipped unless you pick it up yourself in CA, not a bad proposition.) If you do, please report back.

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Make your own mushroom powder.

Mushroom powder, theirs and our home-grated.

We got a gift of mushroom powder. It’s good stuff. You can shake it onto vegetables or meats in the pan for an extra dose of umami. You don’t actually taste the mushroom per se; rather it’s a bit salty and a bit… funky. If you’re opposed to using MSG (we aren’t!) it might give you a similar flavor kick.

And… you can make your own mushroom powder whenever you need it, assuming you have one of those flat packs of shiitakes from your Asian market. Simply grate it into your dish using a microplane or the finest mesh on your box grater. One shiitake, grated, was ample for a pound of salmon steaks.

Or… maybe you want to be a mushroom powder Santa? It’s quick and easy to grate and fill a few small jars with this stuff. (If you don’t have empty spice jars, dump out and clean the jars that have been sitting around far too long and get fresh spices from Penzey’s.)

Note: if you go on Amazon you’ll find similar pre-made products like this one, as well as bigger bags which folks seem to dump into their smoothies etc for health reasons. And I’m reminded that Trader Joe sells an umami mixture which contains salt and onion powder as well as mushroom. But why complicate things when you can make your own, on demand?

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Good Better Best

Rogue River Blue

Rogue River Blue, officially the best cheese in the world, on the shelf at Rainbow Grocery.

We had a local (upstate New York) discussion last week about Rogue River Blue, chosen as the world’s best cheese at the 2019/20 World Cheese Awards. Two respected friends and food lovers concurred that was their favorite cheese and wished they could get more of it. We happened to be in San Francisco, and took a picture of the abundant supply in the excellent cheese department at Rainbow Grocery. Our friends replied that the issue was not so much the actual scarcity as the price ($50/lb at Rainbow, more at many other sources) which kept them from enjoying it more often.

Is Rogue River Blue pricey because it’s scarce, or because it’s hard to make? Yes. We used to live in the Rogue Valley, actually, and recall Rogue River Blue as kind of a gadget cheese, showcasing two of the area’s agricultural specialties by soaking grape leaves in pear liqueur and wrapping them around a standard bleu. We passed on the cheese at Rainbow and bought Old Chatham Boujee Bleu, a fine New York product priced at a more affordable $20/lb.

Stilton Wrapper

The cheesemonger at Rainbow loves Neal’s Yard Stilton. Guess it’s pretty good because it’s gone! But Trader Joe’s Stilton serves our everyday needs just fine.

At Burnt My Fingers we pursue a consistent strategy on most of our food purchases—picking the in-the-middle option rather than the most luxurious, and avoiding bargain-basement picks. Certified Angus Choice is good enough for us in beef; no need for the extra marbling in Prime. We like to treat ourselves to a nice Islay at K&L Wines and picked up some bottles to bring back on the same trip; our ceiling is well under $100 when many of the most attractive bottles sell out at $200 or more, but we also avoid the Finlaggen at Trader Joe which is audacious, but can’t really compare with a truly smoky dram.

What are some foods for which we’ll willingly pay top dollar? Red Boat Fish Sauce, which amazingly has become a common item even though it’s twice as expensive as generic products. Durkee’s Dressing, of course. And Anson Mills beans and grains which give us the good feeling of supporting a heritage food project as well as good eats. But that’s pretty much the extent of our short list.

The late, lamented Sears Catalog had “Good, Better, Best” choices for many of their categories. Good was entirely serviceable, but a basic product that cut corners when possible. Best was clearly a splurge, well made of top quality components but with features you probably didn’t need. Better was the way to go because it gave you good value along with all the functionality you need.

Back to bleu cheese, we sadly haven’t seen Old Chatham Boujee Bleu at local cheesemongers here in New York. But we’re happy with the Stilton and Roquefort at Trader Joe, though their generic (and cheaper) bleu is too sharp and youthful for us. It’s not the best, but it’s better than just good.

What are your good, better, bests in food selections?

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Try something different for your holiday cookie exchange.

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads

Fennel Pollen Shortbreadss

Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts

Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts.

This year we decided to give cookies from Michelle Hines Abram Thibeault, godmother of our BlueStar stove and a renowned local baker, rather than making them ourselves. Her 2021 deadline has passed, so file that link away for next year. And try these three cookie recipes which will give you plenty for your holiday cookie exchange with extras to enjoy at home.

Dark Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle Chili Powder. Sweet and chocolate-y with just a hint of heat, what’s not to like? And making biscotti is a treat because you get to bake them twice, filling your kitchen with delicious smells each time. Do go to the trouble to roast and husk fresh hazelnuts; in fact, make some extras because they’re delicious and can be used in other bakes. Recipe here.

Christina Tosi's Corn Cookies

Christina Tosi’s Corn Cookies.

Christina Tosi’s Corn Cookies. These deceptively ordinary-looking but intensely flavored cookies are easy to make and an excellent introduction to Chef Tosi’s world. We used up our freeze dried corn and now use finely ground corn flour (NOT coarser cornmeal) which has become widely available; just be sure the flour is very fresh. Recipe here.

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads. Mm, butter. Mm, fennel. If you don’t have fennel pollen try grinding fennel seeds and doubling the amount. Don’t use fennel seeds straight up as that would interfere with the smooth texture of the shortbreads. Recipe here.

The best part? While the corn cookies are sturdy as a hockey puck (though much tastier), the shortbreads and biscotti are on the delicate side so you’re sure to end up with some imperfect pieces after you wrap up your holiday cookie exchange. Those are yours, as the baker, to gobble down without remorse!

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Taste test: Peg Leg Porker Bourbon

Peg Leg Porker

Peg Leg Porker White Label Bourbon with fascinating shards of BBQ.

What’s the best bourbon to drink with barbecue? Carey Bringle, pitmaster at Peg Leg Porker in Nashville, would probably say it’s his own.

To quote from the blurbage I received when asked if I would like to try a complimentary sample (full disclosure: I said yes indeedy!): “In 2016, Bringle founded Peg Leg Bourbon and its rich smoky notes remain unmatched as he’s a man who knows smoke better than most. His signature series of hickory, charcoal-filtered, straight Tennessee bourbons features 4-6 Year White Label, 8 Year Grey Label, 12 Year Black Label, and a Limited Edition 15 Year Pitmaster Reserve Label.

“Bringle recently brought home Gold, Silver and Platinum awards at this year’s SIP Awards’ International Spirit Competition. Peg Leg Bourbon was also awarded Gold, Double-Gold and Platinum medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.”

Peg Leg Same

My sample of Peg Leg Porker.

I tried the White Label straight up with some of our house-smoked brisket and it did indeed pair very well. (In the interests of remaining upright you might be advised to enjoy it in a cocktail, like the Pork & Stormy with Bacon-Washed Bourbon, recipe below.) It’s assertive but not harsh and while I did not specifically detect smoke as you would in a good Islay Scotch, it might be characterized as “Incredibly round and featuring classic bourbon aromas of vanilla, orange, bright cherry and complex oak.”

That description, with “hickory” possibly replacing “oak” is actually for another product, George Dickel 8 Year Old Bourbon Whiskey as marketed by the spirits experts at K&L Wines. Carey Bringle is described as a “bourbon ager” rather than a distiller, meaning he starts with whiskey from another source. Whiskey bloggers agree that source is George Dickel, so we couldn’t help a second taste test of Peg Leg against the 8 year old Dickel. We preferred the Peg Leg for extra complexity with some additional flavor notes. Picture being inside an ancient wooden smokehouse somewhere in the south so the boards are splitting and there is sunlight piecing the cracks in the walls with whorls of smoke appearing in the rays of sun.

However, the Peg Leg Porker White Label is identified as a 4-6 year old bourbon, not 8 year, so Bringle evidently buys young bourbon and ages it himself. And he does a fine job. It has a growing national distribution and, if your local liquor store doesn’t stock it, you are likely to be able to find a mail order source if that is allowed in your state.

And now here are those recipes to help you enjoy the bourbon while staying upright:

Pork & Stormy Cocktail
Ingredients:
Bacon-Washed Bourbon:
4 strips bacon
8 oz. Peg Leg Porker Bourbon
1 teaspoon pure cane syrup
Cocktail:
Ice cubes or shards
2 oz. Peg Leg Porker Bourbon
3 oz. ginger beer
Lime wedge, for garnish
Instructions:
Bacon-Washed Bourbon:
Fry the bacon in a cast-iron skillet until crispy.
Combine 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease and the bourbon in a plastic container with a lid (eat the bacon).
Shake thoroughly and freeze until the fat hardens, about 1 hour.
Remove from the freezer and strain the fat from the bourbon; discard the fat.
Add the cane syrup to the bourbon and mix well.
Decant into a covered glass jar or bottle and store in the refrigerator.
Cocktail: 
Fill a cocktail glass with ice.
Add the bourbon, top with the ginger beer, and stir.
Add a teaspoon of the bacon-washed bourbon to the top of the drink.
Garnish with a lime wedge.
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