On the floor at Fancy Food Show 2021

Sioux Chef

Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson of Sioux Chef, a rising trend for 2021.

No, not really. In a normal year we’d be on our way to San Francisco for the Winter Fancy Food Show 2021 where we’d sample wares, talk to producers, and guess what food trends would be hot and not in the coming year. But currently we can’t get into San Francisco (actually we can, but we’d immediately go into a 10 day quarantine) and the Fancy Food Show is happening virtually through something called Specialty Food Live! 2021.

Reminiscent of the many Zoom food tasting and preparation events in 2020, the Specialty Food Association offered vendors the chance to participate in a “virtual tasting experience” in which they could get their products into the hands and mouths of prospective buyers for a fee of $249; the sessions sold out. Beyond that there have been a number of online seminars we could access with our press credentials, and a virtual showcase where vendors are invited to put up a web offering equivalent to the experience of tasting at a booth at the live show. But specialty food businesses are typically not internet-savvy because so much of their business is done in person and the showcases we sampled were mostly predictable press releases.

Still, we found among the emails and web pages a few developments worth noting:

  • The annual Trendspotters’ Index predicts that home-bound customers will be willing to spend more for a restaurant-quality food experience, eg “smoked watermelon salt for use on fruits and vegetables; a sauce that combined the seven toppings of the classic Chicago Hot Dog into one condiment [editorial comment: why?]; sliced Calabrian chiles; and cocktail mixes like a smoked maple old-fashioned syrup for at-home bartending.”
  • Godiva Chocolates’ 128 retail stores are closing by end of Q1 2021, in response to the pandemic and changing consumer habits. “The company has begun to shift its focus to food, drug, and mass retail outlets and online options to meet growing consumer demand.”
  • Costco, famous for its high quality goods and long checkout lines, is testing curbside service in Albuquerque. Consumers can choose from 2000 items and have them loaded into their cars for a $10 fee. There is a minimum $100 order, as you’d expect from Costco.
  • We don’t know what it is but it sounds exciting: Farmstead opens a series of “dark stores” which we’ll guess are equivalent to “ghost kitchens” for restaurants that don’t have a physical presence; in this case the products are home-delivered high end produce and the service is making a profit in San Francisco while the new location in Miami has a waiting list.
  • In Minneapolis, a new restaurant called Owamni will introduce Twin Cities residents to native American foods. Sean Sherman, the “Sioux Chef”, told MPLS Magazine: “It’s the food from exactly right here that’s exactly under your feet that seems foreign for some reason. People are always asking me where to get the ingredients for my recipes: Where do you buy fresh cedar for tea? You don’t. Go outside with a knife.”

If these tidbits leave you hungry, we feel the same way. But it’s not likely this hug-centric, mouth-stuffing event will return to its classic format any time soon.

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Food for thought: The Department of Salad

Pimento Salad

Shaved Celery Salad with Pimiento Buttermilk Dressing, from Issue #8 of The Department of Salad.

Good news: whereas our usual Food for Thought items require clicking a dread affiliate link to purchase, today’s is absolutely free. Emily Nunn is a wonderful food writer who says of herself, “I live in a barn in rural NC dairy farmland and have dedicated my remaining years on this planet to salad.” How she will support herself at this remains to be seen, but for the present we can reap her bounty for free by subscribing to the Department of Salad newsletter. [UPDATE: the publisher has announced she will be charging a small fee, like $6-7 a month, so check out a few issues now and see if it’s something you want to pay for.]

Each issue of this approximately monthly newsletter (she says weekly, and maybe it will be soon[UPDATE–last issues have indeed come weekly]) features a discussion with a chef or contributor with recipes from that guest, followed by Nunn’s own related recipes—virtually all of them salads. It started last March and is currently at issue #11, plus this bonus recap that lists all the issues and recipes so far. (which makes it a good place to start your own explorations.)

Our favorite issue so far has to be #8, which as you might expect has a Southern theme. Atlanta Constitution food columnist Chadwick Boyd shares his Shaved Celery Salad with Pimiento Buttermilk Dressing and then Emily Nunn is doubly inspired and shares celery salad recipes AND her own pimento cheese recipe.

If you feel guilty about getting all this goodness for free, Emily suggests you make a donation to No Kid Hungry. Then follow this link to start your own subscription, and check the website to catch up on past issues.

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Recipe: Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse.

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse is an example of the treats that await you in Rise, the wonderful compendium of Black cooking curated by Marcus Samuelsson. Gestel, who is Executive Chef at Le Bernardin in NYC, likes to serve this with sliced croissants. Seems like a gimmick, but in fact it’s a perfect pairing. Makes about 2 c mousse which is a lot; expect to separate into several bricks and freeze for future use.

Ingredients
1 lb chicken livers*
¼ t pink curing salt (Prague #1 powder)**
¾ lb (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, each stick cut into several pieces
¼ c brandy or cognac
2 T balsamic vinegar or saba
½ t kosher salt

Mousse and Croissant

Do try this mousse the way Chef Gestel recommends, spread on a warm slice of croissant!

Method: clean the livers (remove the white fatty bits and connective tissue) and wash thoroughly; drain. Mix in a bowl with curing salt and cure for half an hour. Rinse the livers and pat dry. Melt 2 T butter and sauté livers until they are brown on the outside but still pink in the middle, about 5 minutes. Transfer livers to a food processor*** and add the brandy to the pan. Heat to just boiling (take care not to set the brandy on fire) and deglaze the pan, then pour contents into the food processor. Cool to room temperature, then add salt and balsamic vinegar. Process for about 4 minutes, adding the pieces of butter one at a time and waiting till each one is absorbed before adding the next. At the end the mousse should have a beautiful creamy texture like soft serve ice cream.

Using a flexible spatula, remove the mousse from the processor bowl and transfer to several serving ramekins or a small loaf pan which has been lined with plastic wrap as we have done. Cover and chill until hard before serving.

*Chicken livers seem to have avoided the price escalation which affects many other variety meats, so you can afford to buy some that have been raised on quality feed. (The liver’s role in the body is to filter out impurities, so what the animal ate makes a big difference.)
**To keep the mousse from turning brown when exposed to air. You can leave it out if you are opposed to cured foods.
***You really need an old fashioned device with a strong motor and a slow speed for this recipe, vs a mini-chopper. If you don’t have one you could try making the recipe in a blender, but if the end result is not silky smooth you might want to strain it by passing the final mixture through a chinoise or other medium-fine strainer.

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Recipe: Microwave Nut Brittle

Microwave Nut Brittle

Microwave Nut Brittle.

Microwave Nut Brittle is likely better than any store-bought brittle, and also a fun pandemic project. If you involve kids, though, please have an adult do the final step because that melted sugar is HOT. Stolen from King Arthur Flour; I’ve made a couple of tweaks and added the aforementioned safety warning. Makes about 2 c brittle.

Ingredients:
1 c sugar
½ c light corn syrup
1½ c roasted nuts (you can use a combination but they recommend peanuts and I agree that’s the best)
1 T butter
1 t vanilla
1 t baking soda

Bubbling Brittle

Brittle mixture after stirring in baking soda; it will foam up which is why you need a big bowl.

Method: grease a wooden spoon (coat in neutral oil) so it won’t stick to the candy. Mix sugar and syrup in a large (at least 8 c capacity) microwave safe bowl using the spoon. Microwave on high for 5 minutes; the mixture will bubble. Remove and add nuts, butter and vanilla in that order and mix thoroughly with the wooden spoon. Return to microwave and heat on high for 2-3 minutes until the sugar starts to brown/caramelize. Remove from microwave using mitts or potholders–the candy will be very hot–and stir in baking soda quickly; the mixture will fizz. Quickly pour onto a cookie sheet which has been covered with parchment paper or a silicone pad and spread with the wooden spoon as wide as possible. Cool at least 30 minutes, then break into serving size pieces.

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A beefy bargain from Wild Fork Foods

Wild Fork Brisket

Flash-frozen USDA Prime brisket from Wild Fork Foods.

A whole, USDA Prime brisket for $2.98 a pound? Yes, please! That’s a price I’ve encountered only once before, during a sale at H.E.B. in Austin, and it’s not much more than I pay for Choice at Walmart. Plus it’s shipped for free in a giant cooler box with dry ice, and arrives hard as a rock and ready to transfer to your own freezer for warm weather smoking.

This bargain comes from Wild Fork Foods, a mail order purveyor which recently started showing up in my Facebook feed. I generally assume such offers are bait-and-switch, with some kind of membership commitment or other strings attached, but couldn’t find any so decided to take a chance and a few days later the aforementioned brisket arrived at my door.

There are a few quirks. Initially, the brisket in the ad was “back soon” and would not move to my cart when I clicked the link; a call to customer service revealed this means out of stock but “we’re expecting a truck tomorrow” and sure enough the item was in stock a couple of days later. Also, your credit card will be authorized for an amount larger than the advertised price just in case the cut is bigger than the estimate. But they promise the price will be adjusted when the actual item ships, and it was.

Wild Fork Box

Wild Fork shipping box, as it arrived at my door.

First order shipping is free; after that you’ll pay $10 for overnight shipping which certainly does not cover the cost of packing (the brisket came wrapped in an ecologically appropriate roll of butcher paper, which I’ll save for my smoking experience, inside a Styrofoam cooler) let alone the actual transport. So what’s going on here?

A little research reveals that Wild Fork is a division of JBS Foods, a global wholesaler (with some unsavory associations in Brazil in the past, but they’re certainly not alone in that) which is apparently trying to establish a mail order footprint with very aggressive pricing. Are these prices competing with the retailers JBS sells to? Is it all too good to be true?

Wild Fork Packaging

Inside the Wild Fork shipping box.

I don’t know, but I’m going to take advantage of this opportunity while it lasts. (I purchased with PayPal, which has an excellent buyer protection program.) Right now beef sweetbreads at $2.98/lb are “back soon” but duck legs are in stock at $7.98 a pound along with that $2.98/lb brisket. Check it out.

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Anatomy of a recipe fail

Pizza Recipe Fail

Recipe Fail. Not bad looking square pizza… but Frank Pepe’s clam pie, it’s not.

When you have a recipe fail as badly as my attempt to replicate the clam pie served at Frank Pepe’s in New Haven, you might wonder how any attempt to make a dish outside your experience could ever succeed. But in fact there were clear breaking points along the way and by studying them we can be more confident of not making the same mistakes twice.

  1. Recipe Fail. Frank Pinello hosts a terrific pizza show on the Munchies web channel and we thoroughly enjoyed the episode in which he visited New Haven. We based our own prep on this recipe, also from Frank Pinello. Because he is such a genial guy, we failed to ask obvious questions such as why he only uses 4 chopped garlic cloves, ½ c olive oil and ¾ c Pecorino for two pizzas when at the shop the pies are drowning in these things (in a good way). Another red flag should have been raised when we started stretching the dough, which was supposed to make two ten-inch pies, and found it could easily make 3. I went back and took a closer look at the subhead on the recipe page: “Bring the flavors of New Haven home with the recipe inspired by the #1 pizza in America: the white clam pizza from Frank Pepe’s.” So it never actually says this is Frank Pepe’s recipe, does it? More likely this is what they give to people who say they want to make the pizza at home, knowing they’ll never be able to duplicate it.
  1. Equipment Fail. Pinello’s recipe asks you to heat the pizza stone under the broiler then switch to 500 degrees F before you put the pizza in. I did this on my new BlueStar and the stone cracked. Tom Thibeault from BlueStar LOL’d when I reported this to him and pointed out that the broiler heats to 1800 degrees F, hotter than any commercial pizza oven. He also advised me what I should have done. Heat the stone on the bottom rack with the oven at 550, then crank on the broiler for 10 minutes before loading the pizza. (I’m collecting BlueStar tips which I will share in a future post.)
  1. Operator Fail. When I saw that cracked stone I panicked a bit, then made the bad decision to piece the two sides back together the best I could and load the pizza anyway. It stuck to the peel and all the toppings ended off sliding off one cracked half of the stone onto the other so I ended up with burned toppings plus a mass of puffy bread. I need more peel work and guidance which I could have attained in advance at Pizzacraft and doubtless other sites. This is an example of something I learned in my marketing career: never test more than one thing in a time. In this case it was a new recipe AND a new oven AND underdeveloped skills and I paid the price.
  1. Ingredient Fail. The key component of the Frank Pepe’s clam pizza is, of course, the littleneck clams which are harvested fresh from Long Island Sound and shucked live. I relied on a Korean brand of frozen clam meat which I found at my Asian supermarket. It had very little taste so I was without the briny flavor this pie needs.

In the end, I went with what I know. I heated a half sheet pan upside down on the bottom rack at 500 while I shaped a the remaining to fit the dimensions of a 17×12 Silpat. It didn’t char on the bottom the way I wanted, and it didn’t taste like Frank Pepe’s pie, but at least it was an acceptable white pizza. Live and learn.

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What happened to your sourdough starter in 2020?

Paper Bag Sourdough Starter

Paper Bag Sourdough Starter at 10 days. Look at those bubbles!

As we sweep 2020 into the trash bin of history, one of the year’s less serious losses is likely to be ignored: all the sourdough starters that folks initiated as a quarantine activity, then abandoned because they weren’t successful or they felt safe buying store-bought baked goods again.

Paper Bag Sourdough Starter Day 0

Getting started with Paper Bag Sourdough Starter

Throughout the pandemic, we’ve shared our sourdough starter with several neighbors and pointed remote readers to the paper bag method which seems to be foolproof. One reader reported that she was using her paper bag starter to stress-bake on Election Day. But we have to believe that some people lacked the patience to go through the steps of generating a starter from flour, water and wild yeast and then nurturing it until ready to use. While others may have made the starter, even baked a few loaves, then forgot about it until they discover a jar full of colorful mold in the back of the refrigerator.

Advice to that second group first: don’t throw it out, no matter how gross it looks. We have often gone for months without using a particular starter (more on that in a moment) and found it if not multicolor, at least well inoculated with a fuzzy layer on top. At this point we go at it with a teaspoon and paper towel. Scoop out the mold, wipe it on the paper towel, then repeat until you expose a layer of clean white. Scoop this out of the jar (taking care to avoid the mold on the side of the jar, or wiping that off with a new paper towel) and refresh the starter. It should come back to life, though it may require a couple of feedings before it is bubbly and ready to put back to work.

Or, if you need to start from scratch, for the first time or not, consider the NC State Wild Sourdough Project. These scientists will take you through the steps of making a starter with wild yeast in the air where you live and then characterizing its activity and aroma and reporting back. You are not going to actually send them a sample of your starter, but they feel the aroma is significant data though I’m not clear on how they measure it. (Here is a follow-on page from the Department of Applied Ecology; they seem to have many projects underway though some may be moribund like the starters themselves.)

The reason starters might differ from one place to another is that wild yeasts will vary according to the climate and what they have to eat in your terroir. Which is why Mom can sell her “233 year old San Francisco starter” on eBay, and over 50,000 people have requested the Alaskan starter from Friends of Carl. And why Gastro Obscura is able to report on a sourdough starter library in Belgium which has collected over 100 starter samples from around the world.

If memory serves, at one time you could order starters from different points of origin on the King Arthur Flour website but today they only have a single starter. Sourdoughs International will ship you localized cultures as will Ed Wood via Amazon. However, eventually any starter is going to be taken over with your own wild yeast that has learned to thrive in your local environment; the small amount of non-local yeast in the imported starter will quickly be overwhelmed.

We did not always believe this, which is why we have faithfully maintained a Cheese Board starter (purloined by buying pizza dough from that iconic Bay Area shop, then refreshing it again and again with water and flour till the salt was strained out), a hybrid starter (combining the starter we used in San Francisco with Saratoga water and local flour after we moved here), and our Hamelman starter (acquired from the master himself, in a baking class).

All were all true to their origins when we acquired them but have become too close to tell apart over time though we still maintain multiple sourdough starters for sentimental reasons (this is why a starter can go unused for months till it becomes moldy). The beasties in the imported products are simply overwhelmed by the yeast in the air you breathe (and carry on your skin).

A final note: it IS a good idea to maintain starters made with different types of flour—rye, einkorn and white and whole wheat are currently in our fridge. Different grains can react to the same yeasts and bacteria (the other component of sourdough activity) in very different ways. And it’s okay to use a rye starter for baking white bread (in fact that’s what Jeffrey Hamelman did for years when a rye starter was all he had) so long as you keep the original starter true to its origins; i.e. always refresh your rye starter with more whole rye flour.

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Food for Thought: The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food

The Rise is not so much a cookbook as a celebration of Black chefs and their contribution to American culture, and we get to participate by making their food. This is a book you are not likely to put down after discovering David Zilber’s fermentation take on sweet potatoes (audaciously, the first recipe in the book) followed by Eric Gestel’s croissants with chicken liver mousse a few pages later. (The picture of the phases of making a croissant, on page 24, is nearly worth the price of admission all by itself.)

Celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson and his highly credentialed collaborators present a vast and vivid panorama, broken down into sections called Next (where Black food is headed), Remix (how Black food integrates many cultures) Migration (the influence of the American South) and Legacy (African food and influencers). Fortunately, there’s a recipe index at the front of the book if you simply want to find something to cook for dinner. Individual recipes are “in honor of” rather than “from”; some recipes are clearly by the chefs themselves while others (including a number of recipes celebrating anonymous chefs) are representative of a place or spirit distilled into food.

Our only quibble is that some of the recipes use obscure or hard-to-find ingredients, without explanation. Eric Gestel’s mousse recipe includes “saba” which is not an ingredient you’ll find on the internet; my best guess is it’s a spiced rum from Saba, an island near where he grew up in the Caribbean*. But maybe that’s to be expected in such a wide ranging and ambitious project. If you didn’t get the cookbook you wanted for Christmas, consider The Rise. Check it out.

*Update: Google and Wikipedia don’t know about saba, but Amazon does. It’s a sweeter, less complex product made from grape must before it turns into balsamic vinegar. The above affiliate link will take you to one of several versions offered though you might find it in an Italian grocery. Or use a syrupy aged balsamic instead.

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Recipe: Delicata Squash Sautéed in Buttermilk

Delicata Squash Sauteed in Buttermilk

Delicata Squash Sautéed in Buttermilk

Delicata Squash Sautéed in Buttermilk came about as a happy accident. I wanted a side dish to go with Ottolenghi’s mackerel with olives and raisins, and found a whole Delicata in the fridge. This is a no-fail squash, as pretty as it is tasty when you slice it with the skin on. After braising with butter and spices, I needed liquid of some kind to finish and reached for a jug of Argyle Cheese Farmer’s wonderful whole buttermilk. The heat separated the buttermilk into curds and whey and the whey boiled away leaving a rich, slightly tart syrup for the caramelized squash. Serves 2-4 as a side dish.

Ingredients:
1 whole delicata squash, approx 1 lb
2 T butter
1 t zata’ar
½ t ground sumac
¼ c whole fat buttermilk (don’t substitute low fat or non-fat; if whole fat buttermilk is not available use whole fat yogurt).
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: cut the squash in half lengthwise; scoop out seeds with a spoon then rinse and pat dry with paper towel. Slice off the ends and cut the halves into ¾ inch half-rings. Do not peel. Sauté in butter in a saucepan till tender; add spices then buttermilk or yogurt. Cover and cook 5 minutes longer until liquid has boiled away. Serve hot.

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Recipe: Green Beans Almondine

Green Beans Almondine

Green Beans Almondine

Green Beans Almondine (aka Amandine) is a dish my mother would make when she was feeling adventurous, and she was good at it. The recipe has a secret, which is easy to master: heat the butter just to the point that it is starting to brown and smell nutty, which is also the point that the almond pieces reach a perfect golden brown. A flavorful accompaniment to steak or your Thanksgiving turkey. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 lb green beans, cut to your liking or whole with the ends snipped off
2 T butter, unsalted preferred
¼ c sliced or slivered almonds
Salt to taste, approx ¾ t
Black pepper to taste, approx ¼ t

Method: plunge the beans into a good amount of boiling water, and blanch no more than a minute till they are bright green, slightly cooked and crunchy. Drain and pour over cold water to stop the cooking. Melt butter in a medium sauté pan and add almonds; cook stirring constantly till butter is browned but not burned and the almonds are nicely toasted. Add green beans and toss to reheat and distribute the butter and almonds. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot.

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