Recipe: Basic Pie Crust

Whole Chess Pie

Chess Pie made with basic pie crust recipe.

Basic pie crust is a simple and straightforward recipe found in a cookbook by Gerald Ramsey, chef in the tea room at Southern Methodist University when my parents worked there many decades ago. It’s a good starting point if you are intimidated by pie. Makes 1 crust for 9″ pie.

Ingredients:
2 c all purpose flour
1 t Kosher salt
¾ c butter or lard*, frozen and cut into ½ inch cubes
1/3 c ice water

Method: If you are going to bake the crust before filling, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Sift** flour and salt together. Cut shortening into it until the mixture feels like coarse cornmeal. Sprinkle water over dough while you knead with your hand; add only enough water to make a cohesive mass***. Roll into a circle on lightly floured board to a diameter about 3 inches wider than your pie pan, or a little wider if you are going to add a top crust.

If you are going to bake your crust before filling (recommended for fruit pies, not for Mom’s Chess Pie) dump a cup of dried beans into the pan atop the raw crust and bake in 400 degree oven for 12-15 minutes until light brown. Remove the beans (which can be cooked on their own or reused), then add filling and bake according to your recipe.

*Ramsey’s original recipe used Crisco®, of course, You cannot go wrong with butter, but also consider lard or coconut oil. The fat needs to be solid to sift and integrate, so liquid shortening won’t work.
**Does anyone sift flour anymore? Or has improved product uniformity made sifting obsolete?
***Okay, I lied about “simple” because a good result is all in the technique. There are no leavenings or eggs in a pie crust. Success is in how you intermix flour and butter into a form that will bake into a crisp, rich crust. A few tips:
–Everything has to be COLD because melted shortening spells disaster. Keep that in mind as you study the steps above.
–Cutting the shortening means you are coating the little pieces of solid fat with flour then working them till the fat is fully incorporated in the flour, like coarse cornmeal.
–If you start rolling out your first pie crust and see it’s full of big spots of fat that was not fully incorporated, good news! You can cut your pie crust into strips and bake them as cookies while you start over with colder ingredients and a finer mix.
–To get the pie crust into the pie pan, invert the pan over the rolled out dough and flip, supporting the dough with your hand. Gently press the crust into the pan to coat the bottom evenly (no need to pre-oil the pan because the dough already has plenty of fat). Cut edges just beyond the edge of pie pan then make a decorative finish with a fork or your fingers. Bake the extra dough as a separate treat, use it to make a top crust on a fruit pie, or just press into the bottom of the pie pan for a thicker crust.

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Recipe: Mom’s Chess Pie

Mom's Ches Pie

Mom’s Chess Pie with whipped cream, an excellent addition. Photo by Becca Oppenneer.

Mom’s chess pie is based on a card I found in my mother’s recipe box. It’s very close to the product served at the Highland Park Cafeteria… eggy, tangy and with more body than a custard pie thanks to the cornmeal. According to Wikipedia “chess” may be a shortened form of “cheeseless”. They say the pie might contain “acid such as vinegar, buttermilk, or lemon juice” but in Dallas we always understood it was made with vinegar, because where would you get a lemon in 19th century rural east Texas? Makes one delicious 9 inch pie.

Ingredients:
1 ½ c sugar
4 ½ tsp cornmeal
½ c butter, melted
3 whole eggs
1 t white vinegar
1 t vanilla
¼ c milk
Unbaked pie shell

Method: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix sugar with cornmeal. Add melted butter and mix thoroughly. Add eggs one at a time. Mix after each addition. Add liquids, finishing with vinegar. It is best to add vinegar slowly at the last. Mix well. Pour into unbaked shell and bake for 45 minutes. Cool to room temperature and serve.

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Clynk makes container recycling easy

Clynk Bag Collection

Clynk bags after collection for a charity in Maine.

In New York we have a 5 cent deposit on recyclable containers for beer, soda, fortified seltzer and water (but not tea, energy drinks, cider or wine, go figure). I’m sure that most folks simply toss the empties in the trash (so it goes into landfill) or regular recycling (where it may or may not be separated from other items, either at the destination or by neighborhood scavengers). But it’s not that hard to get your money back, thanks to a clever regional service called Clynk.

Clynk is headquartered in Maine, which is also home to the nation’s most comprehensive bottle bill (everything has a deposit, even those pesky ice tea containers). Maine is also the headquarters of Hannaford supermarkets, a regional chain with locations in my town of Saratoga Springs. You sign up online and receive a set of bar code stickers in the mail along with a welcome coupon for an initial supply of 10 bags, which you redeem at your local Hannaford.

Fill the bag with deposit-bearing containers (it’s up to you to be sure no non-deposit cans make it in there), affix a bar code sticker, scan the sticker at a special door at Hannaford then toss the bag through the door. A couple days later a credit will show up when you access your account online. I’ve found that a full bag holds about 100 mixed cans, worth $5. In the short time I’ve been doing this I’ve accumulated over $20 which I can transfer to my bank or give to a charity of my choice. Once my initial supply of bags and stickers is gone I can order more stickers for free and buy more bags at Hannaford for about 25 cents each.

Clynk is far easier than the machines in many supermarkets and beer stores that suck in cans one at a time, and spit out ones the machine doesn’t like (probably because the store doesn’t sell products from that distributor). This seems to be the method preferred by folks who gather cans on the street, but it seems to me time consuming and demeaning when with a little advance planning you could just toss your Clynk bag in the adjacent door.

My preferred beer store has a somewhat easier recycling procedure which I’ve used in the past. You bring in your containers and sort them in bins by plastic, glass and aluminum, then give the cashier a bottle count and redeem your deposit. The store is near the Saratoga Race Course, and they provide bags which workers on the backstretch fill with empties scavenged at the racetrack and bring in for a payment determined by the capacity of the bag. (They look to be about the size of the Clynk bags, so holding 50 containers each.) This is a reasonably efficient system, except that the store has decided they don’t like it. Even though they get 3.5 cents for each container they turn in, the work of sorting the increased volume of cans in tougher times has recently overwhelmed their regular beer business.

Which is why I’m glad I discovered Clynk. This page provides an overview of the program, including states where Clynk is available. If you live in an area with a Hannaford, this page will show you how to get started. If you are a retailer interested in partnering (there are also “white label” programs in addition to branded Clynk at Hannaford), check out this page.

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Recipe: Max’s Loaf

Maxs Loaf

Max’s Loaf. The sunflower seeds are dramatic, but most will fall off when you cut the bread.

The recipe for Max’s Loaf was shared with Craig Claiborne of the New York Times when he visited Wendy and Michael London’s Saratoga Springs bakeshop in 1983. It was designed as a “supremely healthy” food for their son Max, who was then 3. The loaf is dense and intense and I’d actually reduce the whole wheat flour by as much as half next time I make it. Makes one 1.5 pound loaf.

Ingredients:
¼ c honey
½ c buttermilk
1 ¼ c hot water
1 T Kosher salt
2 ¼ t active dry yeast (one packet)
4 c whole wheat flour
½ c toasted sunflower seeds
1 egg yolk
1 T whole milk
½ c untoasted sunflower seeds
Butter, to grease the pan

Method: Combine honey, buttermilk, water and salt in bowl of an electric mixer. Stir to melt honey. Add yeast, flour and toasted sunflower seeds. Mix with the dough hook on second speed for 15 minutes (that’s right, 15 minutes) until the dough has good gluten development.

Add a handful of flour to the dough ball in the mixer bowl (after removing the dough hook) and turn dough to coat all sides. Cover with a plate or plastic wrap and let rise 20 minutes. Knead the dough briefly then cover and let rise 40 minutes. Note: because this loaf is so dense, you will not see a lot of yeast activity.

Maxs Loaf Crumb

The crumb texture of Max’s loaf is pretty dense. Make an open face sandwich with peanut butter and jelly or maybe just jelly.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Shape the dough by hand to fit a loaf pan, pressing it with your fingers to extend to the corners with a flat top surface. Remove the shaped dough and paint the top surface with the egg/milk mixture. On a cutting board, bakers’ stone or other clean receptacle, spread out ½ c untoasted sunflower seeds in a shape that corresponds to the loaf. Carefully press the egg-coated top surface of the dough into the seeds.

Generously coat the loaf pan with melted butter, then carefully insert the dough with seeded side on top. (I found it easiest to invert the pan over the dough, which is already upside down from the seeding operation, then flip everything using the cutting board to hold the seeds in place.) Transfer to 375 degree oven and bake 1 hour, or until internal temperature reaches 200+ degrees. Cool in loaf pan before removing.

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Recipe: Smoked Salmon Omelet with Everything Bagel Seasoning

Everything Omelet

Smoked Salmon Omelet with Everything Bagel Seasoning.

A local supermarket occasionally has smoked salmon scraps at a steep discount, which inspired the Smoked Salmon Omelet with Everything Bagel Seasoning. The salmon pieces are too lumpy to serve on a bagel, but work fine chopped in an omelet. Add other familiar ingredients of a lox+bagel+schmear and you have a pretty decent breakfast, which you can serve on a sliced bagel if you wish. Makes 1 serving.

Ingredients:
2 large eggs
Milk
Salt and pepper to taste
2 oz smoked salmon, chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
2 oz cream cheese, chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
2 T green or red onions, chopped
1 T capers
1 t everything bagel seasoning (Trader Joe or equivalent), plus more for garnish
1 T butter

Method: beat eggs with a splash of milk, a generous pinch of salt and a bit of pepper until ingredients are loosely incorporated. Heat butter to a sizzle in a non stick omelet pan and pour in egg. As it starts to solidify, add cream cheese, onion, capers and everything seasoning. When the omelet begins to set, fold it over on itself then flip onto a plate. Add more everything seasoning as a garnish.

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Top 5 recipe posts of 2022 on Burnt My Fingers

Thai Chil Vinegar

Thai Chili Vinegar, our #3 top recipe post of 2022.

In celebration of our 10th anniversary, we’re sharing the posts that have attracted the most clicks over the past year. Today, the top five recipe posts. What’s interesting to me is how simple these choices are…. In 3 of the 5 cases you’re just throwing together a few ingredients. Ok by us…. This blog was founded on the precept that cooking should be fun, with big flavors, and not overly complicated.

  1. Recipe: Halal Guys White Sauce. What else would you expect to find in the top position? Simple, like we said, to the eternal disbelief of those who have fallen prey to the behind the scenes drama concocted by Kenji and the Halal Guys themselves.
  2. Recipe: The Colonel’s KFC Three-Bean Salad. An exception to the simplicity rule: the ingredients aren’t exotic, but you have to be careful with technique and measurements if you want it to taste exactly like the Colonel’s bygone favorite. And it will! Just got a request to make a big batch this weekend for an end of the season picnic.
  3. Recipe: Thai Chili Vinegar. This is the stuff you find on the table in every Thai restaurant in the world… coming soon to your home table. Quick, easy, and just 3 ingredients not counting the sugar and salt.
  4. Special Recipe: Bone Bread. Not sure what to say about this one. It’s not that simple and a bit ghoulish, a tip of the hat to a dark period in French history when bakers ground up their dead to make bread. Fortunately, we’ve come up with a workaround that may remind you of the “stone soup” you may have made in kindergarten. Happy Halloween!
  5. Recipe: Vinegar Peppers. Vinegar peppers are a big deal in the Italian red sauce places in upstate NY. You can buy them jarred but they’re expensive so why not buy green bell peppers on sale and make your own? Then you can enjoy classics like Pork Chops with Vinegar Peppers and Chicken Riggies.

Notice anything missing? How about Recipe: Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw, the perennial favorite from a Dallas seafood place that used to be our #1 recipe by a country mile. Maybe everyone who wanted the recipe has downloaded it and stuck it in their recipe box? If you want to see other stalwarts that have fallen, do a search for “top recipes” or some such and see what you come up with.

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Top 5 non-recipe posts of 2022

Galbi Grilling

Galbi here, bulgogi next. A top ten eating experience for 2022.

Ten for ten! This month marks the tenth anniversary of Burnt My Fingers. Our readership numbers are down from the pandemic peak, to be expected, but well above pre-pandemic levels. That suggested some folks who were lured into the kitchen by boredom did not make it out again, which is a good thing. In celebration, we’ll share the 10 posts that have garnered the most clicks over the past 12 months:  five non-recipe posts today and five recipe posts next time..

  1. Best Mayonnaise Taste Test: Hellman’s vs Dukes vs Kewpie. A new champion! This test wasn’t so much to pick a winner as to find out why some folks prefer one vs the other. Originally posted in April 2021, it wasn’t even on last year’s podium but has now vaulted to the top position. Read the comments and you’ll see why this issue inspires passions but remains unresolved.
  2. The Halal Guys white sauce mystery… SOLVED! In which we break down the methodology used to determine the actual recipe for the white sauce served along the red sauce at the food truck which is now a national franchise. (An earlier post detailed the efforts to misdirect the public by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt and the Halal Guys themselves.)
  3. Galbi vs Bulgogi… which Korean BBQ entree is better? With Korean food so popular, we inspected the variations in the top two KBBQ beef entrees. Is the secret in the marinade? Or the unique short rib cut used for “LA Galbi”? Read and find out then, if you dare, learn the actual results of our taste test.
  4. The sauce that made Mr. Durkee famous. This post was published before the blog was even a thing (it was on our marketing blog) way back in 2010 and has been a perennial favorite. Read the more recent comments for some creative uses of the creamy-zingy dressing that appears on many tables at Thanksgiving and in leftovers.
  5. Hacking the Salt & Char Ribeye Cap Steak. Bobby Flay, the celebrity chef who lives in Saratoga Springs, declared this steak the best thing he’d ever eaten on a Food Channel show. We proceeded to replicate the technique demonstrated on the show with wonderful results. To source a ribeye cap you’ll need a nice big prime rib roast, so read and bookmark this post for when rib roasts are on sale for the holidays.

Next time: Top 5  recipe posts of 2022

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Eating dim sum with Trader Joe

Trader Joe Dim Sum

Trader Joe Dim Sum. Clockwise from high noon: Chicken Cilantro Mini Wontons, Philly Cheesesteak Bao Buns, Pork Shu Mai and Pork Gyoza Pot Stickers.

Turns out you can put together a decent dim sum assortment from the Trader Joe freezer case for well under $10 per person. I purchased Chicken Cilantro Mini Wontons, Pork Gyoza Pot Stickers, Pork Shumai and Philly Cheesesteak Bao Buns. The pieces were arranged on cabbage leaves (which prevent sticking, and may add some flavor) in a bamboo steamer straight from the freezer. They were ready in under 10 minutes.

Chicken Cilantro Mini WontonChicken Cilantro Mini Wontons: these were light rather than dense, with a fresh flavor profile from I think green onion, and you could definitely taste the cilantro.

Pork Gyoza Pot StickerPork Gyoza Pot Stickers: interior was similar to the Mini Won Tons, but with pork. There’s a lot of exterior surface that doesn’t have much taste when steamed. Would have benefitted from being fried to pick up some flavor and crispness.

Pork Shu MaiPork Shumai: my favorite, dense and chewy with lots of pork flavor. I’d actually pick these over the shumai I encounter in my favorite dim sum places which are made with beef, not pork.

Philly Cheesasteak Bao BunPhilly Cheesesteak Bao Buns: not a fan. Good fluffy texture to the (quite small) bao, but the filling tasted like pulled pork, not anything cheesy. In any case a discordant element. A Char Siu Bao Bun is available and would probably be fine, but local TJ did not have it in stock. Also, there are fewer pieces in package (4, vs a dozen or so) than the other items. Probably wouldn’t buy again.

In closing, a suggestion for the Trader. As you can see in the top picture, there is no common theme to the packaging. This is typical of Trader Joe; they do not impose packaging standards on their third-party manufacturers, maybe because they want their shelves to look like they are full of foods pulled together from random places. But they would sell more dim sum if the packages had a common design so people would understand they are supposed to buy multiple products.

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I ate the Taco Bell Mexican Pizza (so you don’t have to)

Taco Bell Mexican Pizza

Taco Bell Mexican Pizza.

There is a guy in town, an active Yelper (the good kind, who writes thoughtful and objective reviews rather than hit pieces and rants), who frequently Facebooks about his love for Taco Bell. When he announced with the excitement the return of the Taco Bell  Mexican Pizza, I decided I had to try it.

It was awful.

Taco Bell Sauces

Free sauces may be the real reason taco bell is popular. I asked for 2 of each variety and this is what I got.

I have always been a non-fan of Taco Bell while admiring their clever advertising and origin story. (There was an actual guy named Bell who had a fast food stand down the road from the original McDonald’s in San Bernardino, CA. He saw what the burger guy was doing and decide to copy the formula, but for tacos.) It seems to me they take a narrow set of ingredients and spices and combine them into endless products that all taste the same.

This Medium essay presents theories about why Taco Bell is so popular in their key demo (18-34 year olds), especially when they are drunk. It’s mostly about marketing. “People have come to respect the brand without them needing to increase the quality of their food.” (Italics and underlining mine.)

Which brings us to the Mexican pizza. It’s two tostadas stacked, with Taco Bell’s ubiquitous ground beef and beans between them and salsa and melted cheese on the top. The cheese oozes out into the serving tray making it impossible to eat. Pick it up? Cheese everywhere. Break into pieces like tortilla chips? The pieces fall apart in your hands. My order came with a fork, which I took as a clue. I deconstructed the tostadas with the fork then scooped the scraps to my mouth. It tasted like anything else from Taco Bell except the tostadas were rancid.

Taco Bell Doritos Taco

Nacho Cheese Doritos® Locos Tacos Supreme®.

Since I was there, I ordered their other millennial favorite, the Nacho Cheese Doritos® Locos Tacos Supreme®. It was better than the pizza; the hard shell was easy to manage and some lettuce and tomato add the impression of real food. (Supreme means you get a bit of tomato and a dribble of sour cream for 60¢ more than the non-supreme version.) These two items cost over $8 bucks which somewhat belies the Bell’s reputation for filling you up for under $5 but hey, you gotta respect the brand.

It’s lunchtime now and I’m headed to Chipotle. Or maybe Moe’s.

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Recipe: Blackened String Beans

Blackened String Beans Mystery Mayo

Blackened String Beans with Mystery Mayo.

Blackened String Beans are a signature dish for local chef Ric Orlando; he claims in this video to have sold over a million servings. The technique is very adaptable to other seasoning mixes. We stuck with Penzey’s Cajun Style Seasoning but you could also use Ric’s own spice mix recipe or make your own. Serves 4.

Method:
1 lb green beans, snipped at the stem end
boiling salted water
1 T Cajun spice mix or similar
2 T cornmeal
2 T neutral oil
Dipping sauce for serving
Lemon wedges for serving

Method: bring water to a boil and add the beans; blanch for 30 seconds then remove to a colander and run cold water over to stop the cooking. Add spices, cornstarch and oil to a large bowl and mix in beans, tossing with your hands until beans are evenly coated. Heat a cast iron skillet very hot then add beans. They will smoke furiously so be sure your stove vent is on full blast. Toss and cook 3 minutes or o until beans show some blistering and the cornmeal/spice mixture is blackened in several places. Serve immediately, with some lemon wedges and a dipping sauce such as remoulade or our Mystery Mayo.

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