Recipe: Holiday Sourdough with Figs and Hazelnuts

Fig and Hazelnut Sourdough

Fig and Hazelnut holiday sourdough with a cross-section of a roll made with the leftovers

This is a nice bread to serve and give around the holidays—it’s not overly sweet so you can eat it with cheese as well as with butter and jam. Adapted from the non-sourdough recipe in Hamelman’s Bread. Makes two large loaves, or three 1 ½ lb loaves, or some combination of loaves and rolls.

Ingredients:
680 g water
125 g firm levain*
500 g whole wheat flour
500 g all-purpose flour
1 T salt
2 T fennel seeds
2 T dried rosemary or 4 T fresh rosemary, chopped
150 g hazelnuts, roasted and skinned then chopped**
150 g dried figs, chopped

Method: Mix levain with lukewarm water; add flours, rosemary and fennel and stir to mix; autolyse 30-60 minutes. Add salt and begin to stretch-and-fold at 30 minute intervals until the dough starts to feel firm and cohesive with good gluten development; add chopped figs and hazelnuts**. Do two more stretch-and-folds to evenly mix in nuts and fruit, then bulk ferment 2-3 hours at 76 degrees. Shape into 2 loaves and transfer to bannetons. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to proof 2-3 hours or more until dough has risen somewhat and is a little puffy to the touch.

Bake in cast iron dutch ovens which have been preheated in the oven to 450 degrees. After 20 minutes, remove tops and lower heat to 435 degrees. Bake another 20 minutes or until the loaves are nicely browned but not burned. (For rolls, bake on a cookie sheet; they’ll be done in about 30 minutes total.)

  • I used the whole wheat/APF starter from my kettle bread, at 60% hydration.

** To toast the hazelnuts, preheat oven to 350 degrees then roast on a cookie sheet for 10 minutes, till they start to color and give off a nice aroma. Cool then rub the hazelnuts between your hands to remove most of the husk (you won’t get all of it). Chop along with the figs before mixing with bread.

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Recipe: Dark Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle Chili

Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts

Dark Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts

First of my 3 holiday bakes. Dark Chocolate Biscotti is adapted from davidg618’s recipe which appeared on the wonderful baker blog, The Fresh Loaf.

Ingredients:
1/2 c (one stick) unsalted butter, softened
2/3 c sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 c cocoa powder (Hershey’s Special Dark preferred)
2 t baking powder
1 3/4 c all purpose flour
1/4 t Kosher salt
1 t Chipotle chili powder or other dark chili powder
1/2 c hazelnuts, toasted (see note below) and coarsely chopped
3/4 c dark chocolate chips (or use regular chocolate chips)

Method: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thoroughly mix the dry ingredients (flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, chili powder and salt) in a bowl. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, beat together butter and sugar on first speed until well-blended, about 1 minute. Add eggs and beat on first speed for about 2 minutes until well combined. Add  the dry ingredients to the mixer bowl and beat on first speed until just incorporated, about 1 minute. Remove paddle; fold in toasted hazelnuts and chocolate chips with a spatula or large spoon.

Turn out onto a flat surface, shape into a ball and divide into two logs each about 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Flatten the top slightly by pressing with your fingers, and press in the sides so it is a cohesive mass without loose pieces sticking out. Note: the dough is very sticky and it will be easy to handle if your hands are wet.

Transfer logs to parchment paper on a half sheet pan and bake 20 minutes or until the top is barely firm to the touch. (Logs will still be jiggly and jello-like.) Remove from oven and cool until firm; you might want to put the sheet pan in the refrigerator if you have room. When the dough is very firm,  slice on the bias into 3/4 inch thick biscotti using a serrated knife or sharp chef’s knife.

Reduce oven heat to 300 degrees. Return the now-biscotti to the parchment paper covered pans and bake 20 minutes on each side or until dry and firm. (I turned off the oven and let them cool inside, but you could also transfer to racks.)

TO TOAST THE HAZELNUTS: Place the nuts on a pan in a 350 degree oven and roast 10 minutes or until they give off a nice aroma and color slightly. Allow to cool, then rub between your palms to remove the husks. (This will get some of the husk off, not all.) Chop coarsely, so the pieces retain their identity as hazelnuts.

Recipe has been edited and re-published to add some better dough handling technique.

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Friends and Family tasting menu at Bar Tartine

Bar Tartine Menu

Bar Tartine’s Friends and Family Menu for December 10, 2013

Bar Tartine, the restaurant offshoot of the bakery that inspired my Kettle Bread, has been getting acclaim for its menus under chefs Nick Balla and Cortney Burns. Balla is from Budapest, and for a while the preps had an Eastern-European tilt (eg lots of sausages and root vegetables) but now they’re more cuisine-neutral.

This week I got to try the Friends and Family tasting menu, an excellent value at $62 considering the amount and diversity of food. Common themes were robust breads, of course (many of the dishes either came with bread or went great with bread) and the absence of external spices so the flavor magic was  provided by reductions, fermentations and combinations of the ingredients themselves. There was also imaginative use of koji, a fermenting agent I’ll be working with in the new year.

Here’s what I ate:

Rainbow Trout

Seared Seared Rainbow Trout with Tatsoi and Turnip, Dashi Broth

Trout Belly on Rye

Trout Belly with Koji Butter on Rye Toast

Crackers and Pistachio Dip

Seeded Crackers with Pistachio Dip and Oven-Dried Laver

Beef Tartare Koji Toast

Beef Tartare with Grilled Onions and Koji Butter on Koji Toast (the kitchen’s most popular dish)

Flounder Nettle Puree

A bonus from the kitchen, flounder on nettle puree

Country Bread Kefir Butter

House Bread with Kefir Butter

Smoked Potatoes Black Garlic

Smoked Potatoes with Black Garlic and Fermented Mustard Green Mayonnaise (my favorite dish)

Kale Rye Berries Yogurt

Kale with Rye Berries and Yogurt

Pork Meatball Trumpet Mushroom

Pork Meatball with Creamed Trumpet Mushroom (another favorite)

Pork Meatball Up Close

A closer look at the succulent, rare interior of the pork meatball

Green Chili Stew with Flounder

Green Chili Stew with Flounder in Dashi Broth

Sweet Potato Salad

Sweet Potato Salad with Blue Cheese, Avocado, Walnuts, Grated Pecorino

Carob Mousse

Carob Mousse (more like a brownie) with Carob Crumbles, Milk Ice, Dried Mint

Parsnip Cake

Parsnip Cake with Honey/Apple Juice Reduction, Sour Cream, Bee Pollen

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Recipe: Chicken with 47 Cloves of Garlic

Chicken with 47 cloves of garlic

Chicken with 47 cloves of garlic

This is kind of like stone soup: a gimmick is used to produce a solid basic dish. I prefer Martha Stewart’s approach in which the chicken is cooked at high heat throughout. Serves 4-6.

Ingredients:
1 large healthy chicken
47 cloves of garlic
8 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 t dried thyme
1/4 c white wine (optional)
2 T butter
salt and pepper

Method: preheat oven to 475 degrees with dutch oven or cast iron skillet inside. Wash chicken then rub exterior with 1 T butter. Sprinkle salt and pepper inside and out. Put 20 cloves of garlic inside chicken cavity along with 1/2 the thyme. Add 1 T butter to the now-hot skillet along with remaining thyme, garlic and optional wine (I like it but feel free to leave out if you don’t have on hand). Add chicken and cook, uncovered, without lowering temperature until it registers 165 degrees internal temperature (about 45 minutes-1 hour).  Allow to rest a a bit then carve. Serve chicken with a few spoonfuls of pan juices and plenty of sourdough bread or mashed potatoes for sopping.

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Recipe: Pita for Jerusalem

Pizza for Jerusalem

Pizza Bread for Jerusalem

Ottolenghi’s wonderful Jerusalem: A Cookbook contains lots of recipes for things to go with pita bread, but oddly enough there is no pita bread recipe. If you don’t have ready access to pita bread, or you just want to make your own, try this. Makes 8 pitas.

Ingredients:
2 c all-purpose flour
1 c whole wheat flour
2 t (or one package) active dry yeast
1 ¼ c lukewarm water
1 ½ t salt
1 T honey or sugar
4 T olive oil

Method: proof the yeast with honey or sugar in the lukewarm water for a few minutes, then add flours, salt and 3 T olive oil. Knead with your hands or mix at low speed for 8 minutes until dough is resilient. Put 1 T olive oil in a bowl with ball of dough and turn to coat all sides. Cover and proof 60 minutes or until doubled. Divide into 8 balls; flatten with your hands and use a rolling pin (or more handwork) to roll out to about 6” diameter. Cover with towel or plastic wrap and proof for 20 minutes until slightly puffy. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place the pita rounds directly on the oven rack and bake 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Use tongs when removing from oven.

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Recipe: Ground Lamb Curry with Peas

Ground Lamb Curry with Peas

Ground Lamb Curry with Peas.

Ground Lamb Curry with Peas is college student, off-campus apartment food: tasty and quick and easy to prepare. Adapted from Myra Waldo’s classic The Complete Book of Oriental Cooking. With rice, serves 6.

Ingredients:
3 T butter
¾ c chopped onions
1 ½ lb lean ground lean lamb
1 ½ t salt
¾ t turmeric
1 ½ t ground coriander
¼ t dried ground chili peppers
½ c yogurt
1 c green peas (fresh or frozen), shelled
¼ c water

Method: melt the butter in a skillet; sauté the onions until browned. Add the lamb, salt, turmeric, coriander and chili peppers. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently until browned. Drain off excess fat if you like. Mix in the yogurt. Cover and cook over low heat 10 minutes. Add the peas and water; cover and stand for a few minutes with heat off till peas are cooked.

NOTE: the best way to get lean ground lamb is to grind your own. With store bought ground lamb you’ll end up with a lot of liquid fat you’ll probably want to pour off before adding the yogurt.

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Recipe: St. Louis Pizza

St Louis Style Pizza

St. Louis Pizza

St. Louis pizza is a regional specialty with baking powder used as leavening and a cheese topping made with a unique processed variety. My crew did another prep based on the King Arthur Flour recipe last night and I realized there were enough variations I better post my own version. Makes 2 pizzas to serve about 4-6.

Ingredients:
2 c all-purpose flour
1 t baking powder
½ t Kosher salt
½ c or more water
3 T olive oil

2/3 c pizza sauce or marinara sauce for topping (add in a little tomato paste if you like)
2 c grated Provel® OR 1 c grated sharp white cheddar/½ c grated swiss/ ½ c grated smoked provolone OR 1 c grated sharp white cheddar/½ c grated swiss/ ½ c grated provolone/1 t Liquid Smoke
Pepperoni (optional)
Dried oregano

Method: mix dry ingredients thoroughly; add water and olive oil and knead with your hands for a couple of minutes until it forms a smooth ball. Add a little more water if necessary to absorb all the flour. Let rest a few minutes, then divide and roll out on a silicone baking pad (if you don’t have a Silpat, use parchment paper) to approximately 6” x 9 “ and 1/8” thick (very, very thin). Use a dull knife to trim the edges and move the trimmings around so the shape ends up a rectangle.

Top each pizza with 1/3 c sauce and 1 c grated cheese; add slices of pepperoni if you like and finish with a dusting of dried oregano. Move to a half-sheet pan or cookie sheet and bake in preheated 450 degree oven for 25 minutes until the cheese is melted and bubbly and the edges of the crust are brown. (It would probably be a good idea to preheat the sheet pans, but I didn’t do this so can’t confirm the results.)

Cut the pizza with scissors into squares for serving in order to create, per the slogan of originator Imo’s, “the square beyond compare.” Thanks to the Dybala Srs. for smuggling the Provel® onto the plane to make this possible.

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Turkey Sandwich

Turkey Sandwich

Day after Thanksgiving turkey sandwich

This is my canonical turkey sandwich for day-after-Thanksgiving lunch:
Sourdough bread
Durkee’s dressing (on both pieces of bread)
Cranberry sauce
Turkey
Wilted leftover salad

Stuffing with turkey gravy

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My bread machine and me

bread machine and bread

My bread machine and stuffing bread

A bread machine is an amazing thing. It combinse a computer (to manage the programs and timing), a motor (to knead the bread) and a heating unit (to heat up the dough so it will rise). All for around $300 in a top of the line Zojirushi, or $70 in the closeout Breadman I bought from Amazon.

If I did not love the experience of handling the dough with my mitts, I would be using the bread machine all the time. When I do use it, I rely heavily on the recipes in a long out of print but beloved book which is still available on Amazon, Rustic European Breads from Your Bread Machine by a couple of ladies in Ashland, OR.

Here is an example. I started with their “Not Pain Ordinaire” and added poultry spices because I wanted to use it for stuffing my bird.

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Recipe: Bread Machine Bread for Turkey Stuffing

This isn’t meant to be eaten on its own. Rather, it should be cubed or shredded, dried out, and used for turkey stuffing. If you don’t want to do that, then omit the poultry seasoning and sage. Makes 1 2-lb loaf.

Ingredients:
1 1/3 c water
2 T butter
2 t poultry seasoning
1 t powdered sage
2 t salt
3 c all purpose flour
1 c whole wheat flour
1 T active dry yeast

Method: place wet ingredients in bread machine, then dry ingredients, with yeast on top (away from the liquid). Process on basic setting with medium darkness, 2-lb size loaf. (If your bread maker doesn’t handle 2 lbs, then divide in half and make a 1 lb loaf.) If using for stuffing, cut into cubes and allow to dry out thoroughly for a couple of days. (Or dry it in the oven.)

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