Recipe: Curtido (Salvadorean-style cole slaw)

Curtido

Curtido (Salvadorean-style cole slaw)

Curtido is the slaw that’s served on the side with pupusas (Salvadorean-style stuffed tortillas). It’s a bit intense to eat on its own, but that intensity makes it ideal for any recipe where you want to add the crunch of cabbage and the kick of its marinade–pulled pork sandwiches, for example.

Ingredients:
½ head green cabbage (approximately 2 lbs)
1 small onion
2 medium or 1 large carrot, peeled and julienned or grate
2 t Kosher salt
1 jalapeño, cut in half lengthwise, seeds removed, then sliced thin
1 T dried oregano (Mexican if available)
1 c white vinegar

Method: Thinly slice cabbage or shred with a mandoline. Peel and slice onion; julienne carrot in mandoline (preferred) or grate with a box grater. Combine in a heat proof bowl and pour boiling water over to cover. Let sit 10 minutes then drain in a colander. Add all the other ingredients and stir to combine. Allow to sit at least 4 hours before serving. It tastes better the next day.

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McClure’s Bloody Mary with White Pike Whiskey

McClures White Pike Bloody Mary

Components of a diabolical Bloody Mary

A few weeks back I was trolling the tables at the Albany Wine & Food Festival and encountered what was surely the work of a mad scientist: a Bloody Mary concocted with pickle juice and a fierce white whiskey. Specifically, McClure’s Bloody Mary Mix and White Pike Whiskey. The experience haunted me and, when I was unable to find the McClure’s product locally, I sought them out at the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco.

Turns out this is a collaboration that has had careful planning and has been promoted at several events like the one I attended. McClure’s is a Detroit company that has expanded to pickle-loving Brooklyn. They have a variety of shelf-stable vinegar pickles that pack a kick, and a good amount of that vinegar brine as well as some cucumber seeds and assorted spices are dumped into a tomato juice base to make the BM. The traditional lime wedge, by the way, is completely unnecessary.

White Pike is a New York State sipping whiskey produced with spelt, which gives it a surprising sweetness at the same time it is kicking your throat’s ass. The flavor profile is actually closer to a really robust vodka, reeking of the barnyard, than what you think of as any kind of whiskey. As my friend Richard from Alabama put it, it has the strength to “fight back” against the pickle juice mixer. And at $40 a 750 ml bottle, it’s not to be taken lightly.

Truth is, I’m not sure I’d love either of these products on their own, but together they’re a marriage made in heaven, or hell. McClure’s products are available in a variety of gourmet specialty stores and the line is expanding; White Pike is a lot harder to find and you’ll probably have to go mail order.

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Recipe: Scrapple Croutons

Scrapple Salad

Scrapple croutons garnishing a green salad

These morsels marry the crunch of a crouton with the porky unctuousness of bacon—what’s not to like? Scrapple is very delicate until it reaches its final cooked state, however, so follow the instructions carefully. ½ pound of scrapple will produce enough croutons to dress side salads for 8.

Scrapple package

Jones Dairy Farm is American’s #1 scrapple producer

Ingredients:
Scrapple (preferably Jones Dairy Farm brand)
Olive oil

Method: preheat a good amount of olive oil (covering the bottom of the pan to a depth of about ¼ inch) at medium heat in a sturdy skillet. There are two ways you can make the croutons: cut your scrapple into ¼ inch thick slices, fry both sides, then cut into croutons after. Or, cut your scrabble into 1/2 -3/4 inch thick slices, and cut again into squares. The second method gives you more “meat custard” on the inside but requires a delicate touch; expect a certain amount of waste (but the broken apart croutons are still fine to eat.)

rawScrapple

Uncooked scrapple slices as they go into the pan

When the oil is hot, carefully place your scrapple pieces in the pan. Lower heat until the oil is barely sizzling and cook 10 minutes or longer till the edges turn brown and start crisping. Test the scrapple pieces with the edge of a spatula to be sure they will release easily; if not cook a little longer. Flip the pieces (or turn the individual croutons with a fork or tongs, if making the larger ones) and cook the other side for 2-3 minutes until done.

Scrapple ready to turn

Ready to turn (note brown edges)

Carefully remove the scrapple pieces to waiting paper towels and blot excess oil. If making the thinner croutons, cut them into ½ inch squares with a sharp knife. You’ll inevitably have some that break apart; crumble these into your salad or just pop in your mouth.

Leftover croutons can be refrigerated for up to a week. Before using, reheat them in the microwave on a paper towel for 5-10 seconds.

Scrapple Croutons

Finished scrapple croutons: small on the left, large individually cut on the right

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Jones Dairy Farm Scrapple reigns supreme at CIA Blogger Cookoff

Bloggers Love Bacon

Bloggers love bacon! In the CIA kitchen.

Last weekend I journeyed to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, at the invitation of the folks from Jones Dairy Farm. Jones has made a major commitment to the school, sponsoring a full Bachelor’s scholarship, funding a kitchen, and backing a student competitive team. The CIA was more than happy to reciprocate by giving us a day long to be remembered… culminating in a CIA Blogger Cookoff!

Chapel at CIA

Student dining hall at Culinary Institute of America

We started off with a breakfast of Jones products in the student dining hall, which looks like something out of Harry Potter but in fact started life a Jesuit chapel; the main building was a monastery prior to its acquisition by the CIA in the 1980s. Then to the kitchen, where Jones Executive VP Rick Lowry, who has a PhD in Food Science, gave a tour of the Jones product line.

Lick Lowry shows ham

Rick Lowry uses his own body to demonstrate pork butchery.

Rick broke down several cuts of pork and turkey to show how Jones maintains the integrity of the meats and keeps things natural as it prepares its products, and displayed “white slime” and smoke-flavored sausage casings to show some of the ghoulish ways competitors cut corners. We next had a class in knife skills (amazingly, of the 16 bloggers, there was not a single injury other than to the vegetables) and then to the main event of the day: the bloggers’ cookoff.

Knife Skills

Knife skills demo at CIA

We were separated into teams of four, and each got a box of ingredients which we were required to use. My team’s included ricotta cheese, Swiss chard, brown mushrooms, ripe pears and Boston lettuce. In addition, we had to use at least two Jones products in our dish.

My group chose to make stuffed mushrooms filled with a mix of the ricotta and Swiss chard pesto, and garnished with a bacon slab; and a pear and lettuce salad with bacon vinaigrette featuring croutons made with Jones scrapple.

Winning Team with Scrapple

The winning team in the blogger cookoff

The team included some really good cooks—my partners were Ashley Dingeman from Saratoga Food Fanatic, Lisa Huff from Snappy Gourmet and Sarah Caron from Sarah’s Cucina Belli –and I have to compliment my colleagues on the excellent  flavor balance and presentation.

Winning Team Plating

Our platings in the blogger cookoff

In awarding us the prize, the judges (two chef instructors from the CIA and the most recent recipient of the Jones scholarship) noted that the scrapple croutons were the most imaginative use of a Jones product that day. I’d gotten the idea talking to Rick about scrapple the night before. He lovingly described how this cornmeal and pig parts mélange is like “meat toast” (as in French toast) because it crisps up on the outside while retaining a custardy interior, and advised long slow cooking on a griddle for the ideal texture. Seemed like a natural to put on a salad. (I was originally thinking of more a banneton thing but the bigger size is too fragile.) The recipe is here!

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Recipe: Kale Caesar Salad with Creamy Dressing

Kale Caesar

Kale Caesar Salad with garlic croutons

Here’s a creamy Caesar dressing without eggs or mayo that can sit on the picnic table without turning into a petri dish. Toss with some sturdy kale for a salad that’s actually better if you prep it an hour or two before serving.

Ingredients:
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 anchovy fillets in oil, finely chopped
2 T lemon juice (about 1 small lemon)
1 T red wine vinegar
1 t Worcestershire sauce
1 t Dijon mustard
½ c olive oil
¼ t salt
¼ t ground black pepper
½ c finely grated Parmesan or Reggiano cheese (or a combination)
1 large bunch kale (or 2 small bunches), any variety, ribs removed and chopped into a coarse chiffonade
Garlic croutons

Method: Tear the kale leaves off their center ribs, stack the pieces, and chop into chiffonade about an inch high x the width of the leaves. (Or tear into bite size pieces with your hands.*) Wash and dry. Thoroughly mix all dressing ingredients except cheese in a bowl or blender, then add cheese and whisk until creamy. (It’s the extra cheese that substitutes for the egg/mayo in other recipes.) Toss with kale and serve immediately, or let sit for an hour or two to cure the kale. Serve with garlic croutons, and a garnish of additional grated cheese if you like.

*The goal is to get the kale into reasonable size pieces instead of the large leaves served at my local “Nuevo latino” restaurant where eating the Kale Caesar was like chewing on a Brillo® pad.

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Win a cast iron skillet from Jones Dairy Farm!

Jones Dairy Farm skillet

Want to win this customized cast iron skillet? Sure you do.

This weekend I’ll be at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY for an event to celebrate the 125th anniversary of Jones Dairy Farm. Jones, which sponsors a scholarship there, is an old-fashioned, family-owned maker of breakfast meats.

They’ve been in business since 1889 and produce dry-aged bacon, ham, Canadian bacon, turkey sausage, turkey bacon, braunschweiger and scrapple and of course pork sausage to their proprietary recipes. The products are gluten-free and made without chemicals or preservatives.

Lodge cast iron skillet

It’s made by Lodge which is a good thing.

I just had their precooked mild pork sausages for breakfast, and approve. Look forward to trying more of their products, and of course to visiting the CIA and reporting on what I learn. In the meantime, the Jones Dairy Farms folks have provided the cast iron skillet you see here which will be given away to one fortunate and alert reader of Burnt My Fingers. The skillet is made by Lodge (you know how I feel about their products) and looks like it would be perfect for frying up some eggs and bacon or sausage or a mess of scrapple.

To enter, comment on this post on our Facebook page (or below, because that links to Facebook) and include the word “sausage” in your comment. (Brownie points if you “like” our page or Jones Dairy Farmswhile you’re at it though it won’t actually increase your chance to win.) Winner will be chosen by random drawing from all qualifying comments on designated posts (there will be a couple more after this one) through Midnight Eastern Time on February 28, 2014. One entry per person, please. Good luck!

[This contest has concluded and the winner has been notified. Thanks for your comments and participation!]
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Recipe: The Colonel’s KFC Three-Bean Salad

KFC Three Bean Salad

KFC three-bean salad (plus bonus garbanzos).

I miss the KFC three-bean salad they used to serve at the Colonel’s. Luckily, this recipe is a dead ringer. Makes enough for a tailgate party, about 16 servings.

Ingredients:

15.5-oz can kidney beans
15.5-oz can green beans (cross cut not french cut)
15.5-oz can wax beans
1/2 c (or more) garbanzo beans (optional)
1/2 c chopped green pepper
1/2 c chopped white or red onion
1/2 c cider vinegar
1/4 to 1/3 c sugar*
1 1/2 t salt
1/2 t black pepper
1/2 c vegetable oil

Method: Drain kidney beans into a colander and rinse to remove soaking liquid. Drain green beans and wax beans into the same colander. Transfer beans to a non-reactive bowl and add onion and pepper.

Add all dry ingredients to a jar, add vinegar, shake until sugar and salt are dissolved. Add oil, shake to emulsify, pour over bowl ingredients and mix gently with a spoon. Marinate at least 6 hours before serving, preferably overnight.

*I’ve decided my original 1/3 cup of sugar makes it too sweet, and have cut back. Recommend you start with 1/4 cup and add more after tasting if you need it.

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Saratoga Chowderfest 2014

Druthers Chowder

Druthers Chowder featuring a crab claw at Saratoga Chowderfest

After barely nudging double digits for weeks, the weather warmed up for today’s Saratoga Chowderfest and chowder lovers showed up en masse. (Although I think the crowds are a bit down from previous years, perhaps because locals have lost the habit of leaving their houses.)

Chowder Crowds

Long lines at Saratoga Chowderfest

This is an event with multiple agendas. There are charities raising money for their causes and restaurants that are essentially promoting their own cuisine. (Some do both, like Javier’s which served a light but excellent monkfish chowder with a coconut milk base from a Red Cross ambulance in its courtyard.) And some like to buy the votes of tasters with huge amounts of cream or lavish ingredients, like chicken wings (Django’s) or a crab claw (Druthers) used as “spoons”, while others make a serious attempt to showcase the work of their chefs.

Discover Saratoga

Shortest line: casino promoter Destination Saratoga

Biggest disappointment: Plum Dandy was not serving its yogurt “chowder” this year. Shortest line: the Destination Saratoga booth serving a generous portion of pulled pork. (Destination Saratoga is a group promoting the idea of a large casino in Saratoga, which the majority of citizens opposed on a ballot measure.)

Chefs Chowder

American Federation of Chefs serving my favorite

Best of the seven I tried: a classic chowder from the American Academy of Chefs, with lots of clam chunks and a topping of crumbled bacon from regional favorite Oscar’s Smokehouse. Oddly, it was one of the shorter lines; festival goers in general tend to pile in lines like Muscovites, on the principle that if people are waiting then it must be good.

If you happen to be in the area and can find a parking spot, Saratoga Chowderfest continues till 4 pm today.

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Bacon Brittle!

Bacon Brittle

Peanut Bacon Brittle from Sir Francis Bacon

In the closing moments of last week’s Fancy Food Show, as I scoured the aisles for anything significant I may have missed, I popped a random treat into my mouth and my eyes went wide: Bacon Brittle!

I love bacon and am easy with the current trend of “all things bacon” extending to popcorn, cocktails and more. But the fact is most of the bacon-themed products rely on a combinations of onion salt and paprika and other spices to make something “taste” like bacon without actually “being” bacon.

The folks at Sir Francis Bacon have a different idea. To make bacon brittle, they simply dump in a bunch of bacon: crispy bits, along with some fat. The result is excellent. You can buy it at Dean & DeLuca, or order it here.

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World’s best tasting beef… from New Zealand?

New Zealand Beef

Russell Jackson cooking New Zealand beef

Last week at the Fancy Food Show I had what may be the best tasting beef I’ve ever experienced. It had the gaminess I like in grass fed beef but without the usual dryness/toughness which comes from the fact grass fed is typically very lean. The secret may be this meat is NOT lean but, according to the purveyor, is “more marbled and flavorful than much of the grass fed beef available in the US.”

None other than Russell Jackson, of Top Chef/Dissident Chef fame, was cooking this up in the New Zealand Meats booth along with lamb, which was also excellent but less of a revelation. I tried the beef my first day, dreamed about it that night, and returned the next day to confirm it was just as good as I remembered. It was. This beef is verified Black Angus, and in addition to being free range and grass fed the vendor certifies it is grown without hormones.

You can currently get 12 12-oz boneless strip steaks (the cut I tried) for $174 including overnight shipping. That’s not exactly cheap, but it’s not outrageously more than other premium meats. I’m going to check it out.

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