Recipe: Cevapcici (or cevabcici)

Posted on June 1, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Cevapcici Grilling

Cevapcici on the grill.

Cevapcici is a skinless sausage popular in slightly different versions throughout the Balkans. The secret ingredient that makes it a sausage, not a burger, is the baking soda. A small amount makes the ground meat firm and springy so it doesn’t come apart when grilled and turned. This cevapcici recipe makes about 12 sausages.

Ingredients:
1 lb ground beef
1 lb ground lamb*
1/2 c finely chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 t paprika (we used a hot smoked variety from Spain)
1 t salt
½ t black pepper
½ t ground cumin
1 t baking soda
½ c chopped parsley (optional)
Olive oil for grilling

Cevapcici Flat

Cevapcici and condiments on a flat (pocketless) Greek pita. Next time I’ll make the sausages a little longer to fit the bread better.

Method: combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Rest at least 1 hour so the meat can firm up and the flavors will mix. Form into sausages a little shorter and fatter than a hot dog. Brush the sausages with olive oil (to prevent sticking) and then grill to your preference, turning once. (We like them medium rare.) Serve on pita bread with sour cream, onions and avjar (a mild red pepper sauce).

*We’ve found that the ground lamb sold in stores is extremely fatty so we grind our own from a leg or shoulder cut.

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Variations on a pickled onion

Posted on May 30, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Soft Pickled Onion

Today’s pickled onion was cooked to a soft, almost spreadable consistency.

We grilled cevapcici (an Adriatic sausage) to serve with avjar (a red pepper topping) on Memorial Day. What else do you need? Onion, of course. There are already three pickled onion recipes on Burnt My Fingers, but we went a different route, cooking red onion slightly in the brine so it becomes soft and almost spreadable. This made us think about the many pickled onion variations and the ways to use this versatile allium.

Which onion to start with? It’s hard to pass up the chance to pickle a red onion and watch its rings turn a pale pink that makes a striking presentation on a burger or a pickle plate. But white and yellow onions have their place, as in our Pickled Onion a la Mexicana recipe where we want the spices to be visible.

What spices to use? Today we added a scoop of Penzey’s Pickling Spice—excellent like all their products. Oregano and a bay leaf have their place. Some folks like to add a base flavor with salt and/or sugar but today we left those out and didn’t miss them. Also, a clove of garlic never hurt but it will only assert itself after the pickle has cured a while.

Vinegar/water blend? Typically 50/50. We generally use cider vinegar for flavor balance but white vinegar will add an appealing metallic sharpness and rice vinegar goes in the opposite direction, mild so the onion flavor stands out.

How to pickle? This decision makes a big difference in result. If you pour white vinegar (no water dilution for this prep) over onion slices and let them sit a couple days, as we do for vinegar peppers, you’ll end up with a mildly pickled product that retains its texture. Today’s prep was at the other end of the spectrum and we used it because we planned to serve a cucumber salad with sour cream and raw onions and wanted to distinguish between the flavors. But for most uses the best pickling method is to place the onion slices and accompaniments in a storage jar, bring brine to a boil and pour over. You’ll have a pickled product in an hour to that will keep for a week in the fridge.

Happy pickling.

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The Divisive Herb: Unraveling the Curious Case of Cilantro Detestation

Posted on May 25, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
DivisiveCoriander

Divisive Cilantro leaves; photo by Thamizhpparithi Maari from Wikipedia.

Introduction: In the culinary world, one cannot underestimate the power of herbs to ignite passion and divide opinions. Among these, cilantro, a verdant and pungent herb, has emerged as a perennial lightning rod, evoking intense love from some and vehement detestation from others. This essay seeks to explore the enigmatic phenomenon of cilantro hatred, examining its origins, cultural influences, and potential physiological factors. Through a lens inspired by the inimitable James Beard, we embark on a journey to understand why this humble herb incites such a fervor of aversion among certain individuals.

Cilantro: An Acquired Taste: Cilantro, known for its vibrant leaves and aromatic presence, plays an indispensable role in numerous cuisines worldwide. Its distinctive flavor profile, described as citrusy, herbal, and slightly soapy, leaves an indelible mark on the palate. However, for a significant segment of the population, this sensory experience is far from pleasurable. Detractors claim that cilantro tastes like soap, socks, or even a repugnant amalgamation of both. This begs the question: why does cilantro elicit such extreme reactions?

Cultural Influence and Familiarity: To understand the origins of cilantro aversion, we must delve into cultural influences. Tastes and preferences are often shaped by culinary traditions and the flavors we are exposed to during our formative years. In cultures where cilantro holds a prominent position, such as in Mexican, Thai, and Indian cuisines, individuals are more likely to develop an affinity for its distinct flavor. Conversely, those unaccustomed to cilantro may perceive its taste as foreign and intrusive. The unfamiliarity and cultural dissonance can contribute to a heightened aversion. Genetics and the Flavor

Perception Conundrum: The intricate relationship between genetics and flavor perception adds another layer of complexity to the cilantro enigma. Studies have revealed that a specific genetic variation in the olfactory receptor genes, OR6A2, may play a crucial role in determining one’s perception of cilantro. Those with this genetic variation often describe cilantro as unpleasant and soapy, while others lack the gene variant and find the herb enjoyable. This biological predisposition underlines the fact that the aversion to cilantro is not merely a matter of personal preference but rather a physiological response deeply ingrained within our genetic makeup.

The Power of Association: The human brain possesses a remarkable ability to associate sensory experiences with emotional responses. For cilantro haters, negative associations may emerge from past encounters with the herb or its presence in unpalatable dishes. One bad experience can taint an individual’s perception of cilantro, leading to an enduring aversion. Furthermore, cultural factors, such as media portrayals or negative social cues, can amplify these negative associations, reinforcing the dislike for cilantro even further.

Culinary Diversity and the Quest for Balance: In the world of gastronomy, diversity reigns supreme. The kaleidoscope of flavors and textures invites both experimentation and subjective opinions. While cilantro haters may feel alienated by the herb’s pervasive presence in certain cuisines, it is vital to acknowledge that culinary harmony thrives on a delicate equilibrium. Chefs and home cooks alike must strive to strike a balance, accommodating varying palates and preferences while preserving the essence of their respective culinary traditions. By recognizing the divisive nature of cilantro, we can foster an inclusive culinary landscape that celebrates diversity without disregarding the individual’s sensory experiences.

Conclusion: The enigma of cilantro aversion continues to puzzle and fascinate us. Through an exploration of cultural influences, genetic predispositions, and associative powers, we have gained valuable insights into [THE END]

WHAT IS THE ABOVE ALL ABOUT? I asked the ChatbotGPT app on my iPhone to write an 800 word essay in the style of James Beard on why some people hate cilantro. The above was generated within 10 seconds. Yes, it is 800 words but that’s because the AI cut itself off in the middle of a sentence. As a food writer I do not feel threatened … yet.

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Food for thought: The Gourmet by Lu Wenfu

Posted on May 23, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Lu Wenfu

Lu Wenfu, from the Goodreads site.

A few weeks ago I attended my college reunion and sat in on a class called “A Chinese Culinary History” taught by Professor Maddalena Poli. To quote from the syllabus, “This course introduces social and historical developments using culinary history as a prism. What do cooking and food habits tell us of Chinese culture? We will explore these topics through a variety of media – primary sources, newspapers, photographs, paintings, and movies.” The session I attended was devoted to “The Gourmet”, a novella from the collection “The Gourmet and other stories of modern Chinaby Lu Wenfu.

“The Gourmet” spans the years from the 1948 revolution to the late 1970s and centers on the relationship between a peasant and a rich man who devotes his life to eating and drinking, i.e. a gourmet. After the revolution the peasant becomes a restaurant manager and decrees that the restaurant will only serve simple food appropriate for the proletariat.  The gourmet goes away to sulk and eventually marries a former courtesan who has opened a secret restaurant serving gourmet food. Meanwhile, the peasant faces a general outcry because everyone wants better food, and eventually he relents and brings back a version of the old menu.

The class, which was entirely student discussion, found it remarkable that the gourmet’s life was so “transactional”—his days were devoted to eating multi-course meals with his friends (the story is set in Suzhou, a city in Southeast China famous for its seafood) and talking about nothing but other meals they had enjoyed and meals they planned to eat. Of course, this is what we do when we go out to eat with our own friends at Burnt My Fingers, LOL.

Lu Wenfu lived from 1927 to 2005, experiencing the highs and lows of Chinese society during a turbulent time. He was reassigned as a mechanic during the Great Leap Forward and forced to wear a placard around his neck as an ideological criminal during the Cultural Revolution. He returned to writing after Mao’s death in 1976 and “The Gourmet” was published in 1983. Not surprisingly, there is much less about those dark periods in the story but there’s plenty of eating and culinary description in the early years, through the mid-50s. Check it out.

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Recipe: Creamy Caesar Dressing

Posted on May 18, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Creamy Caesar Dressing

Creamy Caesar Dressing.

Sometimes you just need a creamy Caesar dressing. This one fits the bill. It’s from GATHER: Casual Cooking from Wine Country Gardens by Janet Fletcher. She puts it atop a rather unusual salad you can read about here, but we like it just fine with your standard greens and croutons. Makes enough for several shared salads.

Ingredients:
½ c mayonnaise
1 ½ t lemon juice
1 ½ t fish sauce (we use Red Boat)
1 t anchovy paste or 3 salted anchovy fillets, finely chopped (optional)
¼ t fresh ground black pepper

Creamy Caesar Salad

Caesar Salad with creamy dressing.

Method: whisk together all ingredients in a bowl. Combine 2 T dressing with 4 cups greens, or to taste, and mix thoroughly. Garnish with a generous scoop of grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese and your favorite croutons.

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Recipe: Onion Burgers

Posted on May 16, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Onion Burger

Onion Burger with cheese.

I learned about Onion Burgers in this article on Atlas Obscura. It seems that during the Great Depression a burger joint in Oklahoma had the inspiration to cut costs by greatly increasing the amount of onions mixed in with its ground beef… because after all onions are a lot cheaper than meat. The burgers were a hit and there are a few places in OK still making them. And they’re good! They satisfy the urge for a fatty, crispy patty that sometimes drives you out to buy a burger even though you know you can make a better one at home. Makes 8 burgers.

Ingredients:
1 lb ground beef (not too lean; the fat helps cook the onion)
1 lb finely diced onion (or equivalent amount of reconstituted dried onions, which is what I used)
Kosher salt to taste
Ground black pepper to taste
Your favorite burger condiments
Cheap burger buns

Method: mix onion and beef and rest for a few minutes to let the ingredients get acquainted. Add salt and pepper to taste then shape into 8 patties. Fry in a skillet or griddle till the meat is sizzling and the onions are aromatic; flip and add a slice of cheese if you like. Serve onion burgers piping hot, with the grease running off the spatula onto the bun.

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What to do with ramps

Posted on May 12, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
What to do with ramps

Ramps. What to do with them?

It’s ramps season here in upstate New York. The wild allium will be showing up on Mother’s Day menus in our better restaurants on top of spaghetti, as a caramelized garnish, and in general wherever you might see a garlic or shallot accent during other seasons. We acquired some ramps from a forager friend and have been wondering what to do with them.

The challenge is that ramps combine two very different form factors: the bulbs and lower stems are dense while the upper green parts are leafy. Sauté a whole ramp after cleaning and trimming and the bulb will be a chewy mouthful but the leafy part will wilt and become leathery and stringy. You could chop them up and cook separately then combine in a dish, but you might not get credit for using these expensive jewels of the forest as opposed to, say, a bunch of green onions.

Here are some ideas.

Ramps compound butter. Pulse the ramps (tops and bulbs) in a minichop, then combine with softened butter and a splash of lemon juice. Add salt and pepper to taste, as desired. Shape into logs then freeze and use as needed as a garnish on seafood.

Ramps breads and biscuits. Ramps leaves really come into their own when they are shredded and folded into dough like our No Knead Cheesy Bread.

Ramps sautéed in brown butter. Separate tops and bulbs then chop each coarsely, so you can still tell they’re ramps. Heat some good butter till it becomes brown and nutty smelling, then cook the bulbs slowly till they’re caramelized and add tops at the end and cook briefly. Serve over toast or as a steak garnish. Variation: sauté some wild mushrooms along with the bulbs.

Ramps with spaghetti. Prepare ramps as above, or use olive oil and sauté till just tender. Fold in a good amount of grated parmesan or pecorino cheese, maybe a bit of lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and maybe some cracked red pepper and serve over pasta.

Pickled ramps bulbs. Still have ramps after trying all the above? Clean and trim ramps bulbs and pack tightly into a small heatproof jar. Add pickling spices and a bay leaf and pour over a mixture of 100 parts white vinegar:50 parts sugar:4 parts Kosher salt. (In other words, 4% salt or about 1 T per cup of vinegar.) Allow to cool, seal and refrigerate and enjoy over the next few weeks.

This page and this one have some good ramps recipes if you want to explore further.

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Recipe: No Knead Cheesy Bread

Posted on May 9, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Cheesy Bread

No Knead Cheesy Bread, hot out of the oven.

No Knead Cheesy Bread originated with East Coast Kitchen. I heard about it from a local baker friend and realized it was the perfect way to use some ramps another local friend had brought back from a secret location. Make one 1 ½ lb loaf.

Ingredients
3 c all purpose flour
1 ½ c lukewarm water
1 ½ t Kosher salt
½ t active dry yeast
1 ½ c grated cheese (sharp cheddar preferred)
1 c ramps greens, green onion tops or chives, chopped fine

Method: mix flour, water, salt and yeast thoroughly in a bowl. Cover and proof till till the dough rises and becomes bubbly; due to the small amount of yeast this will take 3-5 hours or longer.

Cheesy Bread Dough

The parchment paper “cradle” makes it very easy to transfer the dough to the hot dutch oven.

Preheat oven with cast iron dutch oven and lid inside to 450 degrees. Allow half an hour for the dutch oven to come to temperature. Meanwhile, cut a big square of parchment paper. Dust with flour then pour the dough on top. Spread it out then flip over which makes for easier handling since both sides are now lightly floured.

Sprinkle about 2/3 of the cheese across the surface of the dough, right to the edges, and do the same with 2/3 of the ramps/green onions/chives. Fold the dough in from the corners, adding a little more cheese and greens with each fold. After the last fold, carefully flip over the dough and shape into a ball.

Use the parchment paper as a cradle to lift the dough and transfer it to the (now very hot) dutch oven. Cover and bake for 30 minutes, then uncover and bake 15 minutes longer. Allow the bread to cool slightly before serving with lots of butter.

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Recipe: Coronation Chicken Salad

Posted on May 5, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers

Coronation Chicken Salad Sandwich.
Coronation Chicken Salad was created for King Charles’ mother back in 1953, possibly as a tribute to the far-flung British empire which was winding down at that time. It has a pleasant sweetness the late queen doubtless enjoyed, as do we. Makes about 3 cups, enough for 4 sandwiches or salad servings

Ingredients
2 c cooked chicken, preferably breast meat, skinned, boned and shredded or cubed into bite size bits
¼ c mayonnaise
¼ c yoghurt
¼ c golden raisins
½ t ground cinnamon*
1 T or more curry powder
3 T sweet mango chutney
¼ c sliced almonds, toasted
½ t Kosher salt, or to taste
Couple grinds of black pepper
3 T cilantro or green onion, finely chopped

Coronation Chicken Salad

Coronation Chicken Salad can be served on its own, in a lettuce cup or (as the Brits do it) on top of a baked potato

Method: combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Rest for half an hour then taste before serving. We added more curry powder at this point and just a bit more salt.

*The base recipe by Melissa Clark starts with a fresh chicken which has been poached with an onion and a cinnamon stick. If you go that route, no need to add cinnamon to the salad.

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Food for Thought: Prunes for Epicures

Posted on April 25, 2023 by Burnt My Fingers
Prunes for Epicures

Prunes for Epicures.

1933 was a big year for the United Prune Growers of California. After exhaustive scientific study, it was revealed that prunes are a natural laxative! In celebration, the Prune Growers published Prunes for Epicures: 20 Intriguing Recipes and then, in a paroxysm of excitement, expanded the booklet to 35 recipes the same year.

I have the 35-recipe version which I bought from a seller on Etsy, so don’t know what recipes were added from the original, but you can find out if you’re curious by subscribing to Google Books. A search reveals that copies are also available on eBay and from online used book sellers. Evidently the Prune Growers distributed a lot of copies.

In addition to such recipes as Prune Bacon Salad and Prune Pot Roast, Prunes for Epicures has good scientific news (in addition to the laxative properties, prunes had been recently identified as excellent sources of iron and copper) and a fine jingoistic plug for California Prunes. (“California Prunes come to you—and you may be sure of it, if they are California Prunes”—as perfect as it is humanly possible to prepare them.”) Check it out!

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