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Category Archives: Cooking
What happened to the carrot and onions in Julia Child’s boeuf bourguinon?
I decided to make Julia Child’s boeuf bourguinon this weekend, following the recipe in my 1973 copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking. She’s got a nice technique for working the flour into meat: brown the meat first, then … Continue reading
How to do Thanksgiving right
This year we got super lazy and did not brine our turkey, did not lay in fresh cranberries, and most of all did not make elaborate social plans. Yet as the day dawns bright and snowy I have no doubt … Continue reading
Baking Hamelman’s 80% rye “Affidavit Bread”
The other day I baked up a wonderful pullman loaf of 80% whole rye that’s perfect for serving with smoked salmon or some of the nice Brooklyn whitefish salad I had left over from a party last weekend. With a … Continue reading
The cure for watery steak
I have been reading Steak by Mark Schatzker, in which the author searches the world for the world’s tastiest piece of beef. It is a quest I will admire, but not join, because I believe you should not have to … Continue reading
What to do with tomatillos (Mexican green tomatoes)
Tomatillos, also known as Mexican green tomatoes, are actually a relative of the gooseberry which grows fruit covered with a similar papery husk. But they behave very much like tomatoes in recipes while adding a tartness all their own. Another … Continue reading
Foods of the World: Middle Eastern Cooking
Some 40 years before Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem, Time-Life Books introduced American home cooks to the wonders of Middle Eastern cuisine with its Middle Eastern Cooking – Foods Of The World. Some of the books in the series dumbed down the flavors … Continue reading
Five tips for handling bread dough using the stretch-and-fold method
Here are a few useful tactics and problem-solving tips I’ve discovered making lots and lots of loaves of bread by hand using the stretch-and-fold method. I haven’t seen these elsewhere so am publishing in the hopes they’re useful to you … Continue reading
Why I love Crystal Hot Sauce
Do a web search for “Crystal vs Tabasco” and you’ll find lots of Louisiana stories about how one po-boy restaurant uses one, another the other as a matter of personal preference. Buy two bottles and try them side by side … Continue reading
Red Boat Salt: just get some now
I have previously written about the nectar which is Red Boat Fish sauce and why, considering the modest premium compared to generic nuoc mam, there is no reason not to make it your default fish sauce. Now Sam Luu, the … Continue reading