Recipe: Sweet Smoke Cocktail

Sweet Smoke Cocktail

Sweet Smoke Cocktail

We have an excellent local bar called Hamlet & Ghost where I was introduced to the Don Lockwood, a cocktail combining  rye-heavy bourbon and smoky Islay Scotch. (Don Lockwood is the character Gene Kelly plays in Singin’ in the Rain; you would need to go to the Dutch Kills bar in Long Island City, where this drink originated, to find out the connection.) Loved it, but felt there was something missing. Aha: add a leaf of a bitter aromatic, muddled as for a mint julep. Check it out.

Ingredients:
1 oz good bourbon (I used Evan Williams)
1 oz peaty Scotch (H&G used Laphroaig, I used something proprietary; don’t overthink this because smoke is more important than refinement)
Squirt of bitters
1 t maple syrup (Grade B preferred)
1 shiso leaf or 3 mint leaves plus more for garnish
Meyer lemon or orange zest for garnish

Method: muddle herb leaves with syrup and bitters. Add alcohol and mix thoroughly. Add ice, garnish and serve.

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Five top foods in Saratoga Springs, NY

I have been sitting on this post awhile because I didn’t really know what to call it. “Best eats in Saratoga” is a little presumptuous because I haven’t tried everything at all the high end places, plus I’m not going to force my preference in a $30 entrée on somebody else. “Best budget eats in Saratoga” on the other hand is too simplistic; some of these foods are great values, others just great dishes. For those who aren’t locals, I should explain that Saratoga Springs, NY is a highly touristed area and as in any such place (cf. Ashland, OR) there are a certain number of establishments which are just phoning it in because during the season they’ll attract massive traffic, regardless. Anyways, here goes.

Roma Italian Mix

Roma Imports Italian Mix sub made by Mike at the Saratoga Springs store on 8/15/16.

1.Hacked Italian Combo Sub at Roma Imports, Washington St. The smell alone at this Italian deli is worth the price of admission: you would be ahead of the game if you simply tossed a Hamilton over the counter and left without your food. But hang in there and order an Italian combo sub with these tweaks (which don’t cost anything extra): domestic sharp provolone instead of regular; fatty cappy him instead of regular; hot or sweet sopressata instead of salami. Plus lettuce, tomato, onion and oil and vinegar dressing of course.

Big Daddy Hatties

Deconstructed Big Daddy fried chicken sandwich from Hattie’s Chicken Shack

2.Deconstructed fried chicken sandwich at Hattie’s Chicken Shack, Wilton. The chicken sandwich is not sold at the original Hattie’s on Phila so you have to go to the mall. Tell them you want the Big Daddy, which gives you an extra thigh to enjoy for a second meal, and you want it “with the parts separate, chicken and slaw on the side because I am going to eat it later at home” since the word “deconstructed” is not likely to register. Get yourself a cup of hot sauce to go while you are waiting for the order.

Brady Burger

Brady Burger and Fixins at 15 Church, Saratoga

3.Big ass burger from (fill in the blanks). Many of our high end restaurants have a burger on the menu, which allows you to enjoy the ambience and the standard setups and service while paying a fraction of the price of any other entrée. And there’s a quiet competition among these places to make the burger really, really good. My favorite was the Brady Burger at 15 Church but now Chef Brady has migrated to Max London’s which offers Brady Burger 2.0. You can’t go wrong with either, or with the burger at Salt & Char.

Tempura at Kinjo Japanese Steakhouse

Tempura Lunch Special at Kinjo’s in Saratoga Springs (it also comes with salad and miso soup).

4.Lunch special at Kinjo Japanese Steakhouse (Congress Plaza). After some unknown but evidently serious sin in the past, Saratoga was afflicted with a curse that says we cannot have Chinese or Thai or Japanese restaurants but only “fusion” places combining multiple cuisines. Kinjo is the best of this challenging lot, delivering consistently good food at a reasonable price point. My go-to is the tempura special (Japanese) with shrimp and vegetables. A dark horse except to those who know this spot and have found it extremely consistent.

Compton's Breakfast Special

Compton’s Breakfast Special with recommended condiments

5.Breakfast special at Compton’s on Broadway. This old school diner is a hotline to authenticity for any visitor who wants to eat like a local. The hours pass like a soap opera, with drunk college students in the early hours (it opens at 4 am, 3 am on weekends) giving way to downtown stalwarts fueling up on their way to work and finally to retired folks passing the time and waiting for someone to trip on the oddly configured step at the entrance. The special (it is no longer called that on the menu, but it’s easy to find) includes protein (bacon, sausage or hash), two eggs, cottage fries, and toast with bottomless coffee—everything you need to kickstart your day, and nothing you don’t need. I get mine with bacon, eggs over easy and rye toast and request Tabasco (for the eggs) and A-1 Sauce (for the potatoes and for when sop up everything with the toast) to intensify the experience.

That’s my list. I’d welcome yours.

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Recipe: African Cauliflower Curry

African Cauliflower Curry

African Cauliflower Curry

African Cauliflower Curry is a filling main dish served over rice or quinoa; can also be a side dish with grilled chicken. Inspired by a recipe of the same name in Vegan: The Cookbook; the original is on page 128 of that book. Serves 6 as a main dish, 10 as side.

Ingredients:
1 T olive oil
1 large red onion, diced
1 large red pepper, diced
Florets from one whole head cauliflower, broken into small pieces
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 T mild curry powder
2 t cumin seeds or 1 t ground cumin
2 t coriander seeds or 1 t ground coriander
2 t ground turmeric
1 t ground cinnamon
2-3 cloves (grind in mortar and pestle if you don’t like finding them in your food)
14-oz can cooked chickpeas, with their juice
½ c peanut butter
½ c raisins
¾ t Kosher salt

Method: sauté onion and pepper in olive oil in a large skillet until onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add cauliflower and cook, turning, for 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Stir in all other ingredients and simmer 25 minutes or until cauliflower is tender, checking occasionally and adding liquid if the dish becomes dry. Serve immediately.

Note: like many stews, this tastes better when reheated the next day. Also, it greatly benefits from a few dashes of a vinegary hot sauce like Tabasco or Frank’s.

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My $37.75 pizza dinner

Frank Pepe Slices

Slices from Frank “Old Reliable” Pepe: original tomato, clam and garlic, seasonal fresh tomato

The other night I found myself staying in Danbury, CT across the street from Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana. This is one of several branches of the home store in New Haven, which at least one blogger as well as Frank himself believes makes the best pizza in the world.

The branches apparently vary in quality, but all bake in a coal-fired oven whose intense heat produces a blistered, chewy crust. When I entered the restaurant and observed the cooks using a peel whose handle extended across the room (maybe a gimmick, or maybe because the fire was too hot to get any closer) I knew I was in good hands.

Frank Pepe Pizza Order

My $37.75 pizza dinner from Frank Pepe’s

The quandary was what to order as a solo diner. Yelp recommendation are pretty much divided between the original tomato pie with mozzarella (currently $9 for a small 12-inch pie) and white clam pizza ($11). There was also a fresh tomato pie ($12.50) which is only available July through September. It was impossible to choose. So I bought them all, with a total bill including tax of $37.75.

This is the strategy I would advise whenever you are in a location where you are sorely tempted by the food and unlikely to return. The opportunity cost of not trying everything appropriate far outweighs any expense or personal discomfort. Just be sure that all that food goes to good use.

None of my pizza from Frank Pepe’s went to waste. I ate a little more than a pie’s worth that night, finished the clam the next day for lunch (since it was made from fresh clams, it would not travel well), shared some at an afternoon meeting and took the remaining slices home to be reheated a couple of days later.

By the way, if I were to go back I’d confidently head for the original tomato pie with mozz, maybe adding a topping or two. The fresh tomato pie is a nice concept, but the liquid of the fresh tomatoes fought with the chewy crackery crust. And the clam is entirely dependent on how generous the prep cook is with the clams and garlic in that instant when they’re topping the pizza. I didn’t get enough, waah, but now I know the technique and can do this at home.

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Our top five non-recipe posts, 2017 edition

In recognition of the sixth anniversary of Burnt My Fingers, here are the top five non-recipe posts that scored the most hits in the past 12 months:

  1. What’s the best flour for baking bread? This post far outputs any other non-recipe screed on our site and ranks high on the first page for Google, simply because it answers a question any novice baker is likely to have. My answer is somewhat of a rant, but accurate.
  2. The sauce that made Mr. Durkee famous. Including this one is a bit of a cheat because it predates this venue and was ported over from my marketing blog. But its popularity speaks for itself. As will be seen, the various custodians of the Durkee brand have proven better sauce (and paint) makers than marketers.
  3. Turkey Joints from Nora’s of Rome, NY. Our account of a strange journey across the frozen tundra of upstate New York in winter, in pursuit of an unusual regional treat. If you like local color posts like this, do some rabbit-holing in the search box for phrases like “barbecue” and “pickles”.
  4. Finlaggan: the Two-Buck Chuck of Islay single malts. A new entry in the top five! And notable because most of the text is marked for deletion. That crafty Trader Joe introduced a bargain Islay Scotch, then changed the formula on us. We kept the original post up for folks who were looking for it, but struck through the no longer applicable accolades so you won’t be tricked into actually buying some.
  5. The cure for watery steak. Evidently a lot of people have this problem, which I first discovered in a steak tourism book. The remedy, as will be seen, is easy and painless.

That was quick. So now click a few links and do some reading. See you in 2018!

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Lan Chi Chili Paste with Garlic

Lan Chi Chili Garlic Paste

Lan Chi Chili Paste with Garlic

In retail, there’s Amazon. In Asian condiments, there’s Lee Kum Kee. This maker of good-but-not-great sauces and relishes has been gobbling up shelf space in Oriental markets to the detriment of smaller brands, notably Lan Chi.

Lan Chi used to have a dozen facings at my nearest local source, Asian Supermarket in Albany. Today they’re gone. The greatest loss is Lan Chi Chili Paste with Garlic, a complex and multifaceted product (in addition to potent amount of roasted chili and funky garlic, it also contains fermented black beans) that’s the perfect foil to a Chinese lunch or a dim sum platter. I’m not alone in this preference; ask any knowledgeable chef which Chinese chili sauce they prefer and they’ll say Lan Chi.

When my backup supply finally ran out, I assumed I’d be able to pick up a jar on a trip to San Francisco Chinatown. But no luck in half a dozen establishments. I began to wonder what had happened and of course consulted Facebook, where Lan Chi Foods had last posted in 2012: “Life is good…sleeping in the hammock enjoying #slumvillage, #macallen18 and a full moon!” A couple of people responded to the post by asking where the Chili Garlic Paste had gone, but there were no replies. One guesses the business has passed to a new generation where preserving the brand is not the highest priority.

I did find a few online sources, fortunately, and placed a successful order at Kim’s Asian Market. The shipping was a flat $6.99 so I was able to bring the per-jar cost down by ordering multiples. (If you’re in a hurry, this source will sell it to you via Amazon Prime, but you’ll pay.) I advise you to do the same. A jar lasts me about 3 years, so divide your life expectancy by that number and purchase accordingly before this manna goes away for good.

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Our top 5 (or so) recipes (2017 edition)

Corn Cucumber Salsa

Corn Cucumber Salsa–the winner!

It’s that time again! September is the 6th anniversary of the Burnt My Fingers blog, and as in previous years we look back at the recipes that have generated the most clicks over the last 12 months. Or, not. The Colonel’s KFC Three-Bean Salad, Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw and Squash Casserole a la Highland Park Cafeteria always make the list so we’ll give them a bye. With those three taking a victory lap, here’s what’s left in our top five recipes:

  1. Corn Cucumber Salsa. Hijo! This recipe was inspired by the salsa at GDL Taqueria in Glens Falls, NY, which served the best tacos I’ve ever experienced. Sadly, that place is closed but you can still make this prep at home. For maximum pleasure, do take the trouble to pickle the onions and grill the corn. The niblets make it rolly-poly so it’s not ideal for dipping a chip, but it goes almost anywhere else you want a frisson of fresh taste and heat.

  2. Aji Roja (Mild Red Chile Sauce Peruvian-Style). Another surprise! I came up with this tangy mixture, along with a green companion, to serve with the Peruvian grilled heart specialty called anticuchos. But neither the meat nor the verde sauce has gained any traction, while clicks for aji roja are through the roof. I suspect the key is its resemblance to “Tacolicious” sauce, a Bay Area favorite.

  3. Pickled Tripe. The continued success of this offal dish proves its listing last year was no fluke. I can only imagine the reception we will get when we finally figure out the secret of Pennsylvania Dutch tripe in gelée. (I’m working on it; I now have some cleaned but not bleached tripe in the freezer, plus a pig’s foot as a backup source of collagen.)

  4. Fried Calamari Chinese-Style. This ended up in almost exactly the same spot as last year. It’s our home-grown version of General Tso’s Shrimp, only better thanks to a few refinements like making a stock from the shells. And it’s delicious. Try some tonight!

  5. Pita for Jerusalem. Another surprise! We developed this bake to go with the wonderful dishes in Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem Cookbook, which oddly contains no pita recipe. And preps for this simple pocket bread seem pretty hard to find in general. I guess everybody assumes you’ll buy your pita, but it’s so easy you might as well make your own.

That’s it! Wonder who will be on top next year?

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Recipe: Leo Y’s Olivie (Russian Potato Salad)

Olivie Russian Potato Sald

Olivie, or Russian potato salad. Note the uniform size of the potato cubes.

My friend Leo Y brought this famous salad, a staple at Russian festive events, to a Yelp potluck. He emphasizes that the cubes of each element must be equal in size for a proper olivie; in fact, according to his wife Jess he sent back the first batch prepared for their wedding because the potatoes were unevenly chopped. I have modified the proportions slightly while keeping his directions intact. Serves 8.

Ingredients:
5 medium potatoes (about 2 lbs)
3 medium carrots (about 1 lb)
4 hard boiled eggs
8 oz or more cooked skinless chicken breast* or doctorksaya bologna**, optional
14-oz can peas (not fancy new peas, just regular peas), drained
2 whole dill pickles or equivalent amount of chopped dill pickles, about 8 oz
½ c or more mayonnaise
1 medium onion, finely chopped, about 3/4 c
Sour cream, optional
Small green apple peeled, cored and shredded, optional
Fresh dill for garnish, optional

Method: boil potatoes and carrots in skin (it helps to keep vitamins), then cool them down and peel them. Chop potatoes, carrots, eggs, meat, dill pickles into pea sized squares. Add green peas and salt. Trust your own taste, everything must be in proportion. Stir mayonnaise only for the part of salad you are going to eat. It will be kept better without it. Mix the salad and refrigerate for a while. If you want your salad a little tender, mix a part of mayonnaise with an equal part of sour cream. Bon appetit! Stir in chopped onions [and optional shredded apple] immediately before serving and garnish with fresh dill for additional flavor.

*Adding meat to the basic olivie turns it into a “capital” style salad, with extra cachet.
*Doctorskaya bologna is worth sourcing out if you have an Eastern European deli in your area. It is made from pork and very fine-ground with an appealing waxy texture from generous amount of fat or oil.

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Foor for Thought: My New Roots

I found my way to Sarah Britton’s My New Roots blog because Josey Baker credited her as the inspiration for his Adventure Bread. (She calls it the “Life-Changing Loaf of Bread”.)  Britton is a nutritionist, originally from New York, who has lived in Copenhagen for a number of years. In addition to the blog she seems to have a very successful business running health retreats starting at 3200 Euros for a week.

Britton says she has an eating disorder called “orthorexia” which is an obsession with healthy food—that’s pretty hard core, and not something I expect many Burnt My Fingers share. Nonetheless her recipes are wildly inventive and, if you ever feel like laying off the pickled tripe and try some healthy eating, this would be as good a place to start as any. Case in point: frozen hot chocolate made with a secret ingredient: cauliflower. Like I said, pretty hard core. Check it out.

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Teeny Tiny Spice Company brings big flavor… get some now

Teeny Tiny Spices

My well-used rotation of Teeny Tiny Spice Company blends

Teeny Tiny Spice Company is a semi-local business, right up the road from me in Shelburne, VT. They have not paid me to write this post or given me any free product. I am just here to tell you that you should buy some of their spice blends, stat.

The cans in the photo are now in my regular rotation. The Hot Italian Spice is what it says and makes a great addition to any tomato sauce or Italian-accented vinaigrette. (Your other ingredients should be a 3/1 blend of olive oil and red wine vinegar plus salt and pepper, garlic, and maybe a dash of sugar.) The Persian Adwiya is magical stuff, with rose petals, cinnamon and lemon zest as the first three ingredients; I have been using this in a steak marinade with fish sauce, red wine and olive oil. The Za’atar is a solid rendition of this wonderful blend which leads with sumac, marjoram and thyme.

If you are lucky enough to live near Burlington, VT or Saratoga Springs, NY you can buy Teeny Tiny spice mixtures at Healthy Living Market (which is where we found them). If not, you can buy direct or place a trial order on Amazon Prime for a dollar more. If you order direct you get free shipping at $35 or more, and the tins are $9.95 each so you’ll need to add one more in addition to my three; I would suggest the Berbere.

Each of my tins holds 80 g/2.8 oz and tightly seals so they keep their flavor a long time. They’re certified organic and Kosher and GMO-free. And your bitcoin is welcome when you order online! What’s not to like? Give these good folks a try.

P.S. Hate spice blends on principle? I hear you and in general agree because I would rather mix my own, plus sometimes you come across a nice blend then run out and you can’t replace it. But I make a few exceptions, like Burger House Seasoned Salt and these guys.

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