Recipe: Fried Oyster Po’ Boys

Po Boy Sandwich

Fried Oyster Po’ Boys!

Thanksgiving is a good time to make fried oyster po’ boys because jarred oysters are often on sale. I experimented with both a buttermilk soak and an egg soak and found that buttermilk has more flavor but eggs make for a more adhesive batter, so the solution is to use them together. Makes 4-6 individual sandwiches.

Ingredients:
4-6 hoagie rolls, hot dog rolls or po’ boy rolls
Butter

For the tartar sauce:
1 ½ c mayonnaise
½ c chopped celery
¼ c chopped onion
¼ c chopped dill pickle
2 T capers
½ t Tabasco sauce

For the oysters:
32-oz jar shucked oysters
2 eggs, beaten
½ c whole buttermilk
1 ½ c all purpose flour
½ c cornmeal
1 T paprika
2 t salt
½ t ground black pepper
Oil for deep frying

Method: Split the buns and toast them in a skillet or on a griddle. Warm the tops first on a dry surface, then remove from the heat, add butter and melt, then toast the insides till they are lightly browned.

Drain the oysters and soak a few minutes in mixed beaten eggs and buttermilk. Make the sauce while the oysters are soaking: combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly.

Deep fry the oysters: heat 1 ½ inches corn or other oil to 375 degrees in a saucepan. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Dredge the oysters so they are coated on all sides and deep fry, 2 or 3 at a time, turning after 30 seconds and removing after a minute. They should brown quickly but will be tender inside.

Spread a generous amount of tartar sauce on each side of the roll. Add oysters, 4-6 per roll depending on how big they are. Serve open faced or closed.

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Life imitates art at Soup Man

Soup Man

Soup Man says, “no soup for you!” to shoppers in Market 32, Wilton NY

Does this strike anybody else as weird? A character modeled after Ali “Al” Yeganeh, the crotchety proprietor of the International Soup Kitchen in midtown Manhattan, was featured in the famous “Soup Nazi” episode of Seinfeld. In order to be served his delicious broth, customers must follow a strict set of rules about how to stand in line and order. Of course, George Costanza screws up and is told “no soup for you!”

Al Yeganeh subsequently put his name behind a franchise operation called “Soup Man” which dispenses gourmet soups from beneath a sign with his glowering countenance. I have stood outside the door of one of these establishments (near Wall Street, as I recall) and contemplated the menu but not entered because the prices were quite high, close to $10 for a bowl of soup.

Soup Man Box

My Soup Man soup, which I am not allowed to eat.

Soup Man is also available in shelf-stable tetra packs at a growing number of retail stores… which brings me to the weird part. About a year ago Soup Man contracted with Larry Thomas, the actor who played the Soup Nazi on the Seinfeld episode, to go on tour for them. He appeared at my local supermarket the other day, in his soup server’s costume, and was available to his picture taken with customers or simply with a box of soup, which he was happy to autograph.

So here we have an actor playing the part of the guy who is pictured on the Soup Man box, and he is selling soup by telling retail customers they can’t have any. Life imitates art.

The soup’s pretty good, by the way. I tasted the lobster bisque and brought home a 16 oz box. (I paid $3, much more reasonable than at the restaurant.) But I can’t eat it because it says “no soup for you” right across the front with Larry Thomas’ signature underneath.

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Toné Dehydrated Onions

Toné Dehydrated Onions

Tone Dehydrated Onions

At one time I made frequent car trips between the San Francisco Bay Area and southern Oregon. I’d always stop at the same Arco station for food. It offered those terrible pre-cooked wrapped cheeseburgers, but with an irresistible topping: dried onions that had been soaked and reconstituted. Somehow this process of reanimation added complexity beyond anything you can get in a fresh sliced raw onion, and I’ve been thinking about those onion burgers for years.

Now, I have a way to make my own: Toné Dehydrated Onions,  available in a giant jug that should last close to a lifetime. Spoon out some dried onions into a little bowl, thoroughly moisten with water (about 2x the volume of onions) then microwave 30 seconds and you’re good to go. These onions are also great added to soup, baked beans or meatloaf without reconstituting, which means they’ll pick up the flavor of the surrounding liquid.

Toné Dehydrated Onions, as well as their shelfmate Toné Chili Powder (which Snow’s uses in their ethereal baked beans) are available at Sam’s Club. If you don’t have a Sam’s near you, or you’re not a member and don’t care to join, you can get them mail order from Spice Place. Its not the sleekest website; look for search box and drop down list of manufactuerers at left and you’ll find what you need.

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Rolling with the Bad Boys, Broads and Bootleggers Tour

Craig Gavina at Silver Fox

Craig Gravina discourses on Albany Ale at Silver Fox Salvage, during the Bad Boys, Broads and Bootleggers Tour. Mike Bellini of Real McCoy Brewing is leaning on the cooler behind him.

There was no finer way to decompress on the Saturday before Election Day than an afternoon wandering the neighborhoods of the Capital District on a chartered CDTA bus (we don’t do blackened-window Google land yachts here) for a touristic adventure sponsored by All Over Albany. Bad Boys, Broads and Bootleggers was actually two tours happening in parallel, one conducted by journalist Duncan Crary and the other by historian Craig Gravina.

Mary Darcy at Speakeasy

Mary Darcy of All Over Albany used a secret token to get us into the speakeasy below Albany’s City Beer Hall.

The Crary tour was about mobster Legs Diamond, who was a local hero until he was murdered in 1931, the night after he was acquitted in the Troy courthouse on a charge of kidnapping and torture. As things unfolded we saw the barbershop where Legs would get his grooming (Patsy’s in downtown Albany, a wonderful and still operating old-school place) and the courthouse where the trial took place. It turns out that Crary’s great-grandfather, also a journalist, was the likely the first to happen on Legs’s body and that a sponsor of the tour was the E. Stuart Jones Law Firm, helmed by the great-grandson of the attorney who got Legs Diamond acquitted (and did it for free, since he declined a stack of twenties outside the courthouse and said “pay me in the morning” which of course Legs was unable to do).

Eric Paul with Albany Ale

Eric Paul of Cheese Traveler paired classic Albany Ale with a sweet goat gouda to cut the bitterness.

The Gravina tour was mostly about beer. There is a growing number of craft breweries (and distilleries) in the area today, but in colonial times Albany was a veritable Milwaukee, brewing strong (8-11% ABV) “liquid bread” to sustain the Dutch through the brutal winters. In the 19th century, large scale breweries had easy access to barley and hops which they used to make ale, and later lager, which was shipped down the Hudson and around the world. The Albany Ale Project is dedicated to recreating some of those beers, using a recipe that was fortunately passed down intact from John Taylor, a brewer who was fined for using water with dead horses in it during the 1840s.

We tasted a rendition from Real McCoy brewery in Del Mar, made with 6-row barley, Cluster hops and honey and horse-free water. I told Craig it was fine but a bit muddy in flavor and he corrected me that it was more a cereal taste, characteristic of 6-row. He and I then descended into the usual debate about 6-row vs 2-row among New York State beer drinkers: 6-row grows better in our climate, which makes it the smart choice for brewers who are looking to comply with the only-local-ingredients edict of the New York Farm Brewery Act, but brewers prefer 2-row because it is more efficient and because mass-consumption brewers use the 6-row.

Nine Pin Sampling

We sampled the modern version of Albany Ale, along with some cider, at Nine Pin’s tasting room.

(Craig pointed out that the original Dutch beers were actually made with wheat, which grows better than any barley in our warmer (and getting still warmer) climate. Maybe that’s where brewers should be focusing their experimentation: hoppy wheat beers.)

At the next stop we tried a modern version which Real McCoy’s Mike Bellini had crafted with 2-row and Cascade and Citra hops. Of course, one wants to try them side by side which will require some careful planning since Real McCoy is only open 10-2 on Saturdays. Friend their Facebook page to find out when the two Albany Ales will be on tap together.

There was quite a bit of drinking and eating associated with this tour, as well as the history lesson; pictures are available here. The Bad Boys, Broads and Bootleggers Tour is an annual event, happening about this time of year, and it sells out very quickly. Mark your calendar for November 2017, and I’ll likely see you there.

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Salting away shiso

Salt Shiso Pickles

Salt Shiso Pickles: not much to look at, but easy to love.

Success! A few weeks ago I wrote of my scheme to make salt shiso pickles by sprinking a bit of salt on each of my homegrown shiso leaves and stacking them up in a jar. The leaves were then pressed down with a wooden spoon and salted away in the back of the refrigerator.

I had my first taste this morning and happy to report they are non-moldy and taste just like shiso. I wouldn’t wrap one of these unlovely leaves around a lobe of uni, but they’d be fine to mix into some chirashi rice or maybe a sushi roll. And I have enough to last all winter long.

By the way, I have recently encountered fresh shiso leaves at two sushi restaurants in the 518, Kinjo in Saratoga and Sushi Tei in Albany. Kinjo’s owner told me he simply orders from his supplier. So exciting to see this distinctive herb gaining some traction.

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Recipe: Election Cake

Election Cake

Election Cake with a dollop of sweetened whipped cream

U.S. Election Day in the early years of our Republic was a happy and festive occasion. Election Cake was served as a reward for voting or simply to celebrate democracy. A number of bakers are offering it this year to encourage people to vote in our less jovial era, as part of the “Make America Cake Again” initiative. Election Cake rises with sourdough or yeast, not baking powder (which hadn’t been invented yet) and features spices which were popular around 1800. Adapted by Susannah Gebhart for OWL Bakery from Richard Miscovich’s formula*, and further modified by me**. Makes 2 small or 1 large cake.

Ingredients—for the preferment:
280 g whole milk
75 g active sourdough starter @ 100% hydration
280 g all purpose flour or high extraction flour

OR:
320 g whole milk
¼ t instant yeast
320 g all purpose flour or high extraction flour

Ingredients—for the cake:
1 c unsalted butter (226 g)
1/2 c unrefined sugar or 50/50 mix of brown and white sugar (200 g)
2 eggs (100 g)
1/3 c buttermilk (full fat preferred) or whole-milk yogurt (85 g)
¼ c blackstrap molasses/sorghum/honey (60 g)
Preferment (640-645 g)
280 g high extraction flour OR 140 d all purpose flour and 140 g whole wheat flour
1 ½ t ground cinnamon
1 ½ t ground coriander
¼ t ground allspice
¼ t freshly grated nutmeg
¼ t ground black pepper (1 g)
1 ½ t salt (12 g)
2 T brandy (optional)
Up to 1 c dried fruit (optional; if very dry, reconstitute with water in the microwave)

Method: DAY 1: Combine whole milk and starter or yeast. Add flour and mix thoroughly. Cover and proof overnight or until light and bubbly at 70 degrees.

DAY 2: Cream the butter in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment then add sugar and mix at second speed until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time then the molasses/sorghum/honey and yogurt. Replace the paddle attachment with a dough hook and add preferment and mix well. Combine all dry ingredients in a bowl with flour and mix well with a spoon; add to liquid ingredients and mix at second speed for 2 minutes. Add optional fruit (I used ½ c dried cranberries and ½ c candied orange and lemon peel) and brandy and mix until just combined.

Election Cake

1 of 2 cakes baked in a double bundt pan designed for a Halloween Pumpkin cake.

Pour batter into square or round cake pan or bundt pan which has been buttered and floured. Proof  2-3 hours until batter has risen slightly. Bake at 375 degrees for 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350 degrees until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean; for me this took about 30 minutes, for 40 minutes total baking time. Turn out onto a wire rack and cool completely before serving. You can serve as-is, but the cake is not particularly sweet so a glaze or accompanying whipped cream or ice cream is recommended.

Local note for my readers in the 518: according to a reliable source, the first recipe for Election Cake appeared in Amelia Simmons’ second edition of American Cookery, published in 1796.

*The big difference with the formula Richard Miscovich shared at the 2016 Kneading Conference is that Richard added ALL his flour to the preferment, which would give the cake an extra tang. Try that option if you like.

**YIKES. Some gremlins and goblins got into my original recipe, now corrected.

Posted in Baking and Baked Goods, Recipes, Sweets | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

Recipe: Skillet Steak

Skillet Steak

Skillet Steak after about 1/2 has been consumed, it was that good

This is a very simple recipe that may produce the best steak you have ever had.

Ingredients:
Cast iron skillet
Steak that is not larger than the skillet
Kosher salt
Other seasonings of your choice

Method: Heat your seasoned cast iron skillet until it is very hot. (It will start to throw off vapors.) Sprinkle a generous amount of Kosher salt inside the skillet and slap down the steak. Season the “up” side with a flavoring of your choice; I use Burger House seasoning. After a couple of minutes, flip the steak. (If you happen to have some precooked potatoes or other veggies you’d like to enjoy with the steak, toss them in now.)

Let the steak cook on its second side for a minute then turn off the heat and let it rest 10 minutes. Serve, for one of the best steaks you’ve ever enjoyed.

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Rainier Ale discontinued? Alas, it’s true.

Rainier Ale discontinued

Rainier Ale. Discontinued. Photo courtesy of beercankorner.com

The Green Death is dead. Rainier Ale has been discontinued. I learned this the hard way, by searching for retail sources on my last visit to San Francisco and retrieving a map that was completely blank. I emailed Pabst Brewing, which now owns the brand, and they sent back this heartbreaking response:

Otis – Thank you for taking the time to contact Pabst Brewing Company with your interest in Rainier Ale.

Regrettably, due to its poor sales performance, we have decided to discontinue Rainier Ale. We would like to thank you for your support over the years, but unfortunately sales simply were not enough to continue producing the product…

I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused, and thank you again for contacting Pabst Brewing Company.

Inconvenience? Read the Final Rainier Ale Thread on the 40 oz Malt Liquor Paradise BBS and you’ll see it’s much more than that. These bros are crying in their beer over the demise of what the thread’s originator feels is a near perfect quaff: “The flavor is amazing, the buzz is great, the % is perfect, it has that crisp ale taste with a finish only a fresh water stream from Mt Rainier could provide.”

Okay, maybe that’s a bit much. The folks who dubbed it the “Green Death” might argue that the stream was more likely from a leaky bathroom facility, judging by the effect. When I had a bit too much in my younger years I would indeed feel a bit devastated the next day… not so much a hangover as a feeling of hopelessness, signaling either that I was about to die or that I was already dead.

But since I moved east from San Francisco I have developed a finer appreciation for Rainier Ale, which I would seek out and generally find in colorful neighborhoods on my return trips and enjoy in moderation. The product actually mutated over the years and the most recent version was akin to a good German lager: light, but with a backbone. At either 7.3% or 6.9% ABV (the percentage shifted downward toward the end) it had the strength of an IPA but the drinkability of a session beer… which, like the “insane” mode of a Tesla S, was a sleek and dangerous combination.

The Pabst folks did throw me a bone, the promise of “a new beer called Rainier Pale Mountain Ale that you should see hitting the shelves soon!” It’s an American Pale Ale that clocks at 5.3% and early tasters on Beer Advocate give it mixed reviews. But at well over $10 for a six-pack of 12 oz bottles, it’s priced for a completely different market than Rainier Ale; part of the pleasure of the latter was feeling you were getting a good value as well as a buzz, since a 16 oz can was often priced as low as a dollar. (Of course, they were usually sold as singles.)

Rather than closing on a sad note, I will refer you to a fascinating article on SFGate.com about an experiment to brew a collaborative version of Green Death for San Francisco Strong Beer Week in 2013. Turns out Neal Casady (hero of Kerouac’s “On The Road”) was a fan of the original product, as was San Francisco Chronicle columnist Charles McCabe “who used to drink several in the mornings” before going to work. Now that there’s no competition, maybe these guys (Anchor and Speakeasy were mentioned among the collaborators) can be convinced to bring it back.

 

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A tour of Saratoga mineral springs

My baker friend Tom turned me on to the Cooking Issues podcast of Dave Arnold, who is an artisanal cocktail maker in Brooklyn among many other skills. Arnold recently visited our fair city to sample and make cocktails from the ubiquitous and generally unloved Saratoga mineral springs. His visit prompted me to share how I torment my own out-of-town guests by inviting them to sip a dozen of these memorable waters over a couple of hours. Let’s go.

Geyser Island Spouter

Geyser Island Spouter in Spa Park. By Ryan Hodnett (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

We’ll start at the Visitor’s Bureau (Broadway at Congress), where you’ll pick up a guide to the mineral springs. (You can also download it here.) Right across the street is Congress Park, where a number of outlets are clustered. (A spring consists of a pipe that descends into the underground aquifer, and a usually rusty and forbidding fountain where the water comes out.) Here you will find Congress Spring (named, as is the park, for an early settler who was a member of Congress) and Columbian Spring, which is a little joke by the city fathers that simply delivers our not very good tap water.

Before you leave the area, walk north across Spring Street to Hathorn Spring. This is generally considered to be the foulest of the waters, and it’s what Dave Arnold used to make his Saratoga Margarita. It’s so salty and metallic it has to be good for you. (The brochure says it’s “cathartic, diuretic, ‘grateful to the stomach’.” A few cocktails mixed with this stuff will definitely set you up.)

Now, make your way via car or bike to Spa Park for the Geyser Trail loop. The Geyser Island Spouter sits on a mound of tailings in the middle of a creek, and Arnold waded across to get a picture of himself drinking from it. You can stay onshore and sample from several taps, then walk the short (around ¼ mile) trail that takes you behind the SPAC concert pavilion (go during an event and you might catch a famous musician taking a smoke break) and up a slight rise to the Orenda Spring (source of some Martian-looking exudations you’ll pass on your journey) then back the way you came.

State Seal Water

Label for State Seal, Saratoga’s original bottled water

Just a short detour from the Geyser Spring parking lot, on the access road, takes you to the unmarked Polaris Spring. This one is said to be radioactive but I’ve quaffed here many times and never developed a glow. Now, back in your car, drive to State Seal Spring on Avenue of the Pines, opposite the Auto Museum which is the site of the original bottling plant. State Seal is the same product sold in the familiar blue bottles (which are now produced across Highway 50, in an anonymous facility that does not offer tours) and folks bring 5 gallon jugs to get it for free.

While sipping your State Seal (or the salty Geyser Spring water, available from a corroded tap in the same pavilion), you can contemplate the timeless nature of human greed and folly. The pavilion is named for Joe Bruno, a disgraced then partially rehabilitated Capital District politician, and a photo of him on an educational sign has been defaced in various ways. In the 1890s, a Scrooge McDuck-style villain hatched a plot to shut down this and all other local springs by siphoning out the CO2 to bottle and sell. Luckily, he was thwarted by Spencer Trask, a larger-than-life local hero easily the equal of Gyro Gearloose.

Two more springs worth noting are in and near High Rock Park just east of downtown. High Rock Spring is where George Washington allegedly nursed a hangover one foggy morning in 1787, mixing the mineral water with rum. Down the street at Excelsior and High Rock you’ll find the Old Red Spring. This water is said to have powerful properties for treating eczema (perhaps because it’s opposite a Superfund site, the former natural gas processing plant).

There are a few more Saratoga mineral springs left to explore, if you like, but I’ll leave you here because the Old Saratoga Brewing Company is right down the road on Excelsior. Here during tasting room hours you can sample other local beverages (including root beer for the underage) with a different but equally salutary effect. Air do shlàinte!

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How to hack your prime rib dinner

Prime Rib Dinner

My prime rib dinner, day two (except for Yorkshire pudding which needs to be eaten on the spot)

Last night I enjoyed a prime rib dinner at House of Prime Rib in San Francisco. This is a fine specimen of the genre, with long waits for tables and toque’d carvers rolling silver trays hither and yon. The concept is simple. You pay $45-50 which may seem like a lot or quite reasonable depending on your point of reference (a buffet in Las Vegas today is in a similar range; an unadorned steak at Salt and Char in Saratoga will set you back $68) and you get a large salad, a mini-loaf of Boudin sourdough bread, the meat with its juice, an enormous baked potato, some creamed spinach, some Yorkshire pudding and a tray of horseradish sauces at varying degrees of intensity.

Here is the key to a successful prime rib dinner. Order the biggest cut (which here costs just a few dollars more than the smallest cut), eat only what you want, and take the rest home along with the accompaniments for a second meal (and maybe third) whe the meat will be as good or better the next day. I always order the end cut (also called the baseball cut) which gives you the maximum amount of crusty caramelized exterior. Sometimes it’s a bit more well done than I like but this time I was lucky and the interior meat was medium rare.

I once worked in a prime rib restaurant and can tell you the formula is very simple. Buy quality beef and age it a bit so the moisture content is reduced. We’d rub with salt and pepper and cook in a convection oven to 140 degrees exterior temperature (so the outside is well done, the center is rare) and that was it. Like any beef, it will taste better when allowed to rest instead of immediately after it is sliced.

You can reheat your prime rib dinner, or eat the meat cold by itself or sliced for sandwiches. You can also cut it into 1-inch cubes and sauté with a little butter, garlic and wine and serve over potatoes. We used to do this with the leftover roasts at the prime rib place where I worked and make a house meal. We used vermouth for the wine because we had it on hand for Destination Shrimp.

By the way, how do I waltz in and eat immediately when others wait 2 hours or so for a table? Because I’m alone and I sit at the bar. I miss the hand carving and artistic salad tossing, but conversation with fellow diners (often quirky solo curmudgeons, like me) makes up for it.

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