Recipe: Sichuan Pickled Vegetables

Sichuan Pickles

Sichuan Pickles in proofing jar (not really necessary; because the fermentation is slight you can use a regular lid but don’t tighten all the way).

Here is a taste of the treats which await in Fuchsia Dunlop’s Land of Plenty. My only modification was to use wine instead of vodka, since I feared too much alcohol might slow the fermentation. (It got just a little fizz, less than salt-cured pickles.) She recommends serving as a side dish with chili oil and sugar; I’ve found the pickles are fine on their own and are excellent when stirred into a mild dish like jook. Makes 1 quart.

Ingredients:
2 ¼ c water
½ c Kosher salt
4 dried chilis (Sichuan chilis are relatively mild; reduce the quantity if using stronger chilis)
½ t whole Sichuan peppercorn
2 T Xiao Xing wine or dry sherry
½ of a star anise
1 T brown sugar
1 inch knob of ginger, no need to peel
1 cinnamon stick
¾ lb daikon (white radish)*
½ lb carrots*

Method: dissolve salt in water and bring to boil. Cool, then add other brine ingredients and transfer to a quart canning jar. Peel the vegetables and cut into ¾ inch chunks; add to canning jar and add more water if necessary to fill within ½ inch of top. Cover loosely and cure in a cool dark place for one week or longer, until the brine develops a slight fizz. Use as a condiment with Sichuan dishes and add more vegetables to the brine after you finish the first batch; it will get better with age.

*Use other root vegetables like turnips, parsnips, rutabagas etc if you like.

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Food for Thought: Land of Plenty


Land of Plenty by Fuchsia Dunlop has just come back into stock at Amazon after being unavailable for several months and costing as much as $100 on the used market. This is fantastic news and I recommend you grab a copy while you can.

Fuchsia Dunlop is an English journalist who studied Sichuan cooking at a full-time school for professional chefs in Chengdu. She has roamed the back alleys and countryside collecting authentic recipes and translating them into directions for home cooks. Many of these are from shuttered restaurants or legacy methods that are no longer practiced, so you may get a better introduction to Sichuan cooking by preparing dishes from this book than by actually visiting Sichuan province. (The exception being a food tour which Dunlop herself conducts, a couple of times a year.)

I have never been to China, sadly, but I can say the explosive seasonings and complex tastes mirror the very best dishes I’ve found at well-regarded Sichuan restaurants in the U.S. Be aware you will definitely need to expand your Asian food pantry to make these dishes. Most items should be available at a good Asian supermarket, but I would also recommend you take extra care in purchasing two key ingredients: doubanjiang sauce and Sichuan peppercorns. There is a range of quality levels and you want the best. I purchased mine from Amazon, which is where those links will take you.

Published in 2003, Land of Plenty is long on clear descriptions and well-written text but short on photos. There are several blocks of photo pages within the book but they are not up to today’s food porn standards. Get over it. Land of Plenty belongs in your cookbook collection and now that it is available again you should run, not walk, to the order button to get your copy. Check it out.

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The travails and triumphs of a Thermador Professional range owner

Thermador Professional

Old Thermy, our vintage Thermador Professional range

UPDATE: a little more than two years after this post was written, our Thermador went to the big kitchen in the sky. See this post to meet the replacement.

A couple of years ago we moved into a house with a Thermador Professional 48” range already in place. It has two ovens, 4 burners, a grill and a griddle. The larger oven is big enough to accommodate a sheet pan; the smaller has a proofing function, which I appreciate as a bread baker. A similar range is currently being marketed by Thermador but ours is one of the very first in the series, built around 1990. The model number is GCR484GG.

Thermador Professional Griddle

Burner grate, grill and griddle are built to last

We’ve had two “semi-pro” ranges in our last two houses, a Dacor and an NGX. The immediate thing you notice that’s different about the Thermador vs these competitors is that its burners and stovetop grates are made of really heavy cast iron, like commercial stoves. The tiny holes in the burners can get clogged and you clean them out with a paper clip-like tool, but the burners themselves seem indestructible. And they’re super hot, each putting out 15,000 BTUs. You can ruin a saucepan really quickly if you don’t pay attention.

We use the grill and griddle quite a lot and have learned to adjust for their eccentricities. The heat source is obviously two converted round gas elements so there are hot spots in the middle and they cool off toward the edges. But the thick steel on the griddle and the well-designed fake charcoal surface under the heavy grill make this less of a problem than it might be. These two surfaces also come in handy when we’re cooking on the burners because we can offload a pot (without spilling, please) to a heat-safe holding area.

What we don’t love about this range is the electronics. With an old-school restaurant stove, you light the pilot each day with a scrap of paper; consumers wouldn’t stand for that plus it would probably be illegal for home use (as are a number of other features on a commercial stove, which is why you can’t just buy a used stove from a restaurant supply and bring it home). Our range has piezo electric clickers like most home ranges but they seem pretty reliable. (And there are always matches to fall back on.) But our broiler in the big oven doesn’t work, which means the self-cleaning function doesn’t work.

The sellers of our house thought the problem was the latch on the door, the thing that locks it shut when self-cleaning begins. I found a replacement switch on eBay and installed it myself, but the switch itself was $270 and it didn’t fix the problem. Our excellent tech from Best Appliance came out and said the broiler element was bad. I found a replacement broiler element for $100 and he installed that, but we still can’t use the broiler because now it turns out the thermostat is bad. A used thermos for this model on eBay can be as much as $600 (if you can find it, which I haven’t so far). My tech is advising that these stoves have a life expectancy of 15 years and we are pushing twice that, so should be looking to replace it.

Thermador Professional Manual

We still have the original manual, copyright 1990

Replace? A new Thermador range (or a BlueStar, the other brand I’d consider) with the same features costs $12,000. I’m also tempted by Thor, a Chinese brand that gets great reviews on Amazon and costs a fraction of this price (now maybe a lot more, with tariffs). I would never buy another Thermador based on the terrible customer service reviews they get plus the fact they discontinue their spare parts after about 8 years. That’s why I am scrambling for used parts from salvaged stoves instead of simply ordering from the manufacturer as you’d expect.

But in the meantime, I’m grateful for the parts of Old Thermy that do work and keeping fingers crossed they’ll last a little longer.

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How do I know when my steak is done?

How do I know when my steak is done

Jean O’Toole of the New York Beef Council shows how to grill a perfect steak, with assistance from Community Ambassador Daniel B of Yelp.

The other day I had a tour of Trowbridge Farm, a cow-calf operation in the Hudson Valley, courtesy of Yelp and the New York Beef Council. At the end of the tour Beef Council President Jean O’Toole gave us a steak grilling lesson. Answering the eternal question, how do I know when my steak is done? she produced a meat thermometer! And jammed that bad boy into the New York strip sideways from the edge to get a good center reading.

I know what you are thinking: if I tried that stunt at my own cookout, I’d have my grill chef’s license taken away. But it does give you an accurate measure, as long as you’re careful to stick the probe in the center of the meat and away from any bone.

However, knowing the steak’s current temperature does not necessarily translate into knowing its degree of doneness. You’ll find a variety of different temperature recommendations if you google how do I know when my steak is done, including two different sets on the canonical Beef What’s for Dinner site.

The temperature chart I like best is from Certified Angus Beef: 125 degrees Fahrenheit for rare, 135 medium rare, 145 medium, 150 medium well, 160 well; these are finished temps so remove from heat when 5 degrees below desired serving temp (10 degrees if it’s a really thick steak) and let it rest 5 minutes or more.

You could also use the fingertip feel method: touch your index finger to your thumb, use the index finger of the other hand to gauge the firmness of the muscle on the outside edge of your palm that joins the two digits, then compare it to the surface of your steak on the grill. If they feel the same, that steak is rare. Move the thumb to the middle finger for medium rare, ring finger for medium, little finger for well-done. This sort of works but it’s subjective, and I will contend that different hands feel different: a cowpoke’s callused mitt is going to be inherently firmer than that of a callow teenage dishwasher.

Or you could test your steak for doneness like we do at Burnt My Fingers. Start by searing one side of the steak to a nice crust, moving it once if you want an attractive cross hatched grill mark. This will take perhaps 3 minutes on a good hot grill (or a hot cast iron pan). Now, flip it over. Poke that seared surface and you will find it hard and crisp on the outside but the flesh beneath is soft and yielding with very little resistance.

Cook for 2 more minutes and press again. The steak should now push back at you a bit. When you feel that resistance, TAKE IT OFF THE GRILL and you will have a beautiful rare to medium rare steak after resting. I would never cook my steak past this point but if you want medium give it another minute; the interior will feel quite firm and solid. And well-done? There is really no way to please the well-done diner* who, I think, really wants meat that doesn’t look like meat. It will still be edible, vs shoe leather, if you leave it on a further minute or two but immediately take it off if the surface starts to lose its moisture.

Is this method perfect? No, but there can be no such thing as perfection when degrees of doneness are subjective even on official industry websites. The best thing about our method is that you are unlikely to end up with an overdone steak; if it is too rare the worst that can happen is you’ll have to throw it back on the grill for a little longer.

*One of the longest shifts I ever worked as a grill cook was a New Years day, when I got multiple orders for well-done steaks. The steaks kept coming back as not done enough, and I’d grill them some more until finally the diner sent the steak back as inedible. One wonders why people so hung over they could not stand the sight of red meat would come to a steak and prime rib place to begin with.

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Apples as condiment: the crunchy chameleon

Apple Beef Sandwich

Apples as condiment along with blue cheese, fennel and caramelized onion

The other day I had one of the best sandwiches of my life at a place called Big Mountain Deli in Lake Placid, New York. Called the MARCY, it mixed roast turkey, cranberry horseradish sauce, cheddar, apple & cracked pepper mayo. Actually that was my son’s sandwich which I finished when he didn’t. My sandwich was the GOTHICS combining roast beef, caramelized onion, blue cheese & horseradish mayo. These are two of 46 varieties on offer, in honor of the Adirondack high peaks, and you can also make your own combinations.

There were several factors that made these sandwiches fabulous: a great house made roll. A sharp funky cheese. Lubrication from the flavored mayo. Perfectly matched condiments. And an ample portion of quality meat.

I resolved to do a mashup when I got home and ended up with what you see above. I cut one of my baguettes lengthwise down the middle and spread each half with a mixture of mayo, horseradish and crumbled blue cheese. I grilled off some tri-tip which had been marinated in fish sauce, red wine, olive oil, pepper and Persian spices and sliced it thin. I added thin sliced apples and onion which I’d caramelized along with some fennel. It’s not as pretty as Big Mountain but was awful good and will get better as I improve my technique.

What I want to talk about, though, is those apples. Apple slices make a great condiment on a sandwich, it turns out, adding crunch like crisp lettuce plus a sweetness to balance the other ingredients. I have lots of apples from the trees in our yard and am going to add apple-dressed sandwiches to my regular rotation.

Apple season is big business in upstate New York where I live. We go touring for tastes of apple cider donuts and u-pick apple orchards. There are hay rides and corn mazes celebrating what used to be the first cold, crisp days and are now some of the last warm (or warmish) days before winter sets in. Then we end up with a lot of apples that have to be eaten. Using apples as condiment is a good way to do it.

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Q. What’s the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident?

What's the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident

What’s the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident? I’ll say Burger House in Dallas,  because my grandmother first took me there when I was five years old and I didn’t know where we were going. That’s Jack, the founder, on the left.

Q. What’s the best restaurant you ever discovered by accident? Quora prompted me to answer that question, and I thought my reply might lead to some conversation. If you would like to add your own experiences, please comment below!

A. I rarely choose a restaurant by accident these days. Menu prices and opportunity cost (the lost opportunity to eat at another, better place) are just too high, and it’s easy to look up reviews on Yelp or, less frequently, TripAdvisor and Google Maps. But I traveled extensively in Europe and Mexico when I was much younger, and then I did have some fortuitous discoveries. I remember a great chicken place in the heart of Florence and an outdoor barbecue emporium in the hills above Ljubljana, both discovered through tips from locals.

Burger House Cheeseburger

Burger House cheeseburger, as good as it gets.

There are several clues that tell me such a place is likely to be well above average. First, it’s going to be much more crowded than nearby places. Second, a peek inside shows people are actually enjoying their meals and that food is a central part of the dining experience and not a sideline. This usually entails a walk through the restaurant, ostensibly to check out the bar or restroom, and I am not shy about peeking at diners’ dishes and maybe asking a server what they are eating. It’s a plus if there is a good level of service, and people are not sitting around glumly waiting for their meals. (A typical scene at the modest breakfast places frequented by millennials, who apparently enjoy the social experience of waiting on line for hours for mediocre food.)

The places that have surprised me in recent memory have actually been chain restaurants, like Golden Corral and 99 (an upstate New York chain) where I have dined out of due diligence as a food blogger and had a much better experience than expected. Golden Corral is a buffet place that has decent choices if you stay away from the grey prime rib and desserts. And 99 has real prep work going on in the kitchen you can see through the pass.

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Recipe: Sweet and Sour Pork

Sweet and Sour Pork

Sweet and Sour Pork

This sweet and sour pork recipe is adapted from Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees, a Chinese cookbook organized by cooking method (in this case, velveting and deep frying). I’ve added some of my favorite ingredients from takeout food to what is actually an authentic Chinese recipe. Serves 4.

Ingredients:
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 T Xiaoxing cooking wine or dry sherry
1 t salt
¼ t ground white or black pepper
1 lb boneless pork loin, cut into ¾ inch cubes
Cornstarch
Vegetable oil for frying

For the sauce:
¼ c water
3 T Xiaoxing cooking wine or dry sherry
3 T ketchup
1 T rice vinegar
½ t Kosher salt
2 T sugar or honey
2 t cornstarch
¼ c pineapple juice (from can of pineapple)

For cooking:
1 T oil for wok
1 T minced garlic
1 green bell pepper, cut into ¾ inch pieces
1 onion, peeled and cut into ¾ inch pieces
½ c pineapple chunks

Method: mix marinade ingredients: salt, pepper, egg white, cooking wine; add pork and marinate 30 minutes. Heat oil to 375 degrees. Roll pork pieces in cornstarch and fry them a few at a time so they do not stick together, 4-5 minutes until outside is crisp and firm (they will not brown). Drain on paper towels.

Make sauce by mixing cornstarch and water to a slurry; add other ingredients. Heat oil in wok and add garlic; sauté until fragrant. Add pepper and onion and cook slightly till softened; add sauce and pineapple and heat through. Add reserved pork pieces and toss to mix. Serve hot with rice.

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Food for Thought: Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees

I ran across Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees in a Facebook comment by Rob Handel, the chef I interviewed about foraging. Rob is a trained botanist who likes to categorize things, so I can see why he would enjoy this book. It’s organized by cooking methods: stir-frying, red cooking, flavored steaming and so on. You learn the technique, then get several recipes to practice it. There’s also a preface describing the characteristics of each region’s cuisine, including lesser-known (in the West) areas like zhejiang and shandong. The author, Kian Lam Kho, is from Singapore which provides an appreciated third-party objectivity as well as some nice dishes from Kho’s own upbringing.

Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees also has some excellent historical tidbits. We learn that Mapo, as in Mapo Dofu, literally means “pock marked” and this iconic dish is named after Pock-Marked Chen, who endured the epithet but also opened a restaurant specializing in mapo dofu which is still in business in China today. We also discover that sweet and sour pork, far from a Westernized abomination, was a logical creation by Chinese who migrated to California, and that General Tso’s Chicken, often mocked for its inauthenticity, was invented in Taiwan, by a chef who late opened a restaurant in NYC that was unsuccessful because people didn’t think it was authentic enough.

Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees (the title is a literal translation of the characters representing chicken feet and Chinese broccoli) is good reading with some good recipes. Check it out.

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Top 5 non-recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers (2018 edition)

top non-recipe posts on Burnt My FingersLet’s start with the big news, as we look at the top non-recipe posts on Burnt My Fingers over the past 12 months. Just 90 days after publication The Halal Guys White Sauce mystery… SOLVED is ranked in the #5 position for the entire year which has to be a record. And if you Google “Halal Guys White Sauce” you’ll see our post above the intentionally misleading Serious Eats non-recipe that got our knickers in a twist to begin with. How sweet it is!

About 8 times a day, somebody somewhere wonders about the origins of that eggy, mustardy sauce we put on our turkey sandwiches after thanksgiving. That’s why The Sauce That Made Mr. Durkee Famous is the #1 overall non-recipe post for the past 12 months. Right behind it is another perennial favorite, What’s the Best Flour for Baking Bread? But then things get interesting.

Hacking the Salt & Char Ribeye Cap Steak is our attempt to duplicate the preparation of this expensive cut at the expensive Saratoga Springs steakhouse. If you’d like to save a few bucks, as many readers did, you’re in for a treat. (In fact, you could buy a couple of prime rib roasts, cut off the rib caps and save the rest, and you’d probably spend what they charge at S&C for a single serving of their American Wagyu Cap Steak).

#4 of our top Burnt My Fingers non-recipe posts is another evergreen topic, Rainier Ale discontinued? Alas, it’s true. We enjoy beer but don’t write about it a lot on the blog. But this tragic tale transcends cuisines and beverage choices. What foods pair beautifully with this potent amber ale? A plate of Halal Guys chicken with rice, for one thing. Or a submarine sandwich, or a Chinese banquet, or… ok, I’ll stop. All those millennials ironically sipping their PBRs should be aware their company put a stake in the heart of our beloved Green Death.

We didn’t give a pass to the perennial favorites as we did on our recipe report, but if we had The cure for watery steak and Turkey Joints from Nora’s of Rome, NY would have rounded out the top five. Man, that steak would taste good with a 40 of Rainier Ale….

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Recipe: Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic

Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic

Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic

Here’s the Sichuan Eggplant with Garlic recipe I used for my Douban Jiang taste test. It’s adapted from a similar prep on the Steamy Kitchen blog. Serves 4 as a main dish, 6 as a side.

Ingredients:
2 lbs Asian eggplant (about 5)*
Salt
Peanut or other neutral oil for wok
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ jalapeño, chopped
½ inch chunk fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 or more green onions, cut in half lengthwise and then chopped, including part of the green
2 t douban jiang (Sichuan chili bean sauce)
1 T soy sauce
1 T Chinese black vinegar
Pinch of sugar (maybe 1/2 t), optional

Method: slice the eggplant lengthwise into ¾ inch slices. (You can also use standard round eggplant but you should peel them first, and the finished dish won’t be as visually attractive.) Sprinkle both sides with salt and let sit upright in a colander until a good amount of water has leached out, about 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

Heat about 2 T oil in a wok and add garlic and ginger; cook until fragrant, a couple of minutes. Add jalapeño and green onion and sauté briefly, then add eggplant and cook until tender, about 5 minutes, turning frequently. Add soy sauce, vinegar, douban jiang and sugar and cook briefly until you can smell the chilis. Toss to combine and serve hot.

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