Recipe: Stewed Okra with Tomatoes

Okra with Tomatoes

Stewed Okra with Tomatoes

Stewed Okra with Tomatoes is a universal preparation down south; households from Key West to Deep Ellum are making it right now as you read this recipe. This is comfort food, filling and mildly spiced, to be eaten alongside more assertive dishes. If you’re not a fan of okra slime, you can rest easy: it completely disappears as the vegetables are stewed. Makes 4 serving.

Ingredients:
2 c okra, stems removed and cut crosswise into ½ inch pieces
2 T bacon fat or neutral cooking oil
½ c chopped onion
½ c chopped celery
10-oz can RO-TEL Original Diced Tomatoes and Green Chilies* OR 14.5-oz can stewed tomatoes and ½ jalapeño, seeds and veins removed and coarsely chopped
½ c water (omit if using the larger can of stewed tomatoes vs RO*TEL)
Pinch of dried cumin (optional)
½ t salt (or more if needed)
½ t ground black pepper

Method: sauté onion and celery until limp; add other ingredients. Simmer 25 minutes until okra is soft. Finished product should be moist but not soupy; check after a few minutes and take the cover off the pot if there’s too much liquid, or add water if it is getting dry. Serve warm; tastes at least as good the next day.

*Not a product plug. RO-TEL tomatoes are a very popular southern ingredient but plain tomatoes with a bit of chile makes an okay substitute.

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Recipe: Niter Kibbeh (Ethiopian clarified butter)

Niter Kibbeh

Niter Kibbeh, in solid and liquid forms

Niter Kibbeh is the cooking medium for many Ethiopian dishes, providing a flavorful undertone to more aggressive spices. It should be fragrant, herbaceous in taste but without the heat of berbere or other red pepper. The recipe is very flexible and can be modified for your preferences and your pantry. My version is based on Kittee Berns’ Ye’qimem Zeyet (spiced vegetable oil) in Teff Love with only minor tweaks. Makes a little less than a pint.

Ingredients:
1 lb unsalted butter
⅓ cup minced red onion or shallots
2 T garlic, chopped
1 T dried koseret OR Mexican oregano* (optional)
1 T dried besobela OR holy basil** (optional)
1 T peeled and grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon whole ajwain seeds*** (optional) OR dried thyme leaves
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon whole fenugreek seeds
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon whole nigella seeds (optional; see page 6)
6 fresh basil leaves (optional)
6 whole cloves
1/8 t grated nutmeg

Method: melt the butter in a heavy saucepan under very low heat; it should be barely bubbling when rendered. Add all other ingredient and simmer under very low heat for one hour, stirring occasionally to make sure the bottom is not getting too hot. Remove larger pieces of spices with a slotted spoon then strain through cheesecloth or paper towel into a clean, warm pint jar. Will keep quite a while in your refrigerator.

*Koseret is a flowering herb growing in mountainous regions of Ethiopia. You’ll probably have a hard time finding it unless you have access to a good African store. Mexican (not regular) oregano is from the same family so I’ve offered it as a replacement.

**Besobela tastes and smells like thyme mixed with lavender. It can be found in health food stores or bulk spice departments where it’s sold as tulsi or holy basil.

***Kittee Berns uses ajwain in a number of her recipes so it’s worth seeking out in a specialty spice department. Its bitter taste is similar to, but not the same as, dried thyme. Another name for ajwain is “bishop’s weed”; this is a very common invasive plant in the Northeast and I’d be interested if any readers have successfully harvested the seeds.

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Our five most popular non-recipe posts of 2019

September is the anniversary of this blog, which means it’s time once again to peek at our stats and report the most popular posts of the past year. Let’s start with the five most popular non-recipe posts of 2019:

  1. The Halal Guys white sauce mystery… SOLVED! We predicted this would happen a year ago, and sure enough there’s been a daily drumbeat that finally totaled 13,403 views, far more than any other post on the blog. It’s worth noting that less than half of readers clicked through to read the actual recipe that solved the mystery… support for a theory that many people prefer arguing about food to actually eating it.

  2. The sauce that made Mr. Durkee famous. So much love for a product we eat (in my house anyway) only once a year. This is one of the oldest posts on the blog, and we recently cleaned up a number of broken links which made for a rise in Google rankings. Did Mrs. Lincoln actually invent Durkee’s while in the White House? Was it once made by a paint company? Read the post to find out!

  3. Hacking the Salt & Char Ribeye Cap Steak. In which we reproduce the signature dish of the very upscale Saratoga Springs steak house for preparation in your own home. David Burke, the new Executive Chef at Salt & Char, now makes the rib cap with Wagyu beef and charges $78 for a nine-oz portion. For the same amount of money you could buy a whole prime rib roast, cut off the cap, and essentially have a free entrée to serve for your holiday meal.

  4. What’s the best flour for baking bread? A perennial favorite because it answers a question any beginning baker has (or should have) and provokes discussion among more experienced bakers. Hint: it’s not the sacks of King Arthur Sir Galahad brand you see stacked up at your favorite bakery… or maybe it is.

  5. The cure for watery steak. Who knew this was such a problem? If you suffer from watery steak, here are two possible causes and two easy ways to fix it. Once you finish reading the post, check the “related” at the bottom of the page for other articles of interest on preparing red-meat magnificence. Seems like we hate to pay for steak, but we love writing about it!

Coming soon: the 5 most popular recipe posts of 2019.

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Trader Joe’s Jalapeño Sauce? No, gracias!

Trader Joe Jalapeño Sauce

Trader Joe’s Jalapeño Sauce

We are huge fans of many Trader Joe’s products. Like their aged “1000 day” Gouda, the giant bricks of semisweet chocolate and raw cashew pieces we use in our Cashew Coconut Clusters, ridiculously affordable Boatswain Ale and those pricey Cheese Bites. We are not above grabbing a few produce or meat or dairy items in a pinch, and have found them to be consistently of good quality and well-priced. In fact, until now we have never found a Trader Joe’s product we would emphatically NOT recommend.

Enter Trader Joe’s Jalapeño Sauce.

We grabbed a bottle of this relatively pricey ($3.49 for 10 oz) product at a feature display this past winter. We’ve put it through its paces as a taco topping and in many other instances where you want a green (=vegetal) topping. It’s just not hitting the mark. The jalapeño flavor is way too mild and it mostly tastes of an emulsion of generic green stuff in a fatty base. It’s the textbook definition of “empty calories”, adding fat and a bland mouthfeel without much flavor enrichment.

Fresh jalapeños are amazing, and universally available. If you like the flavor, just chop up a fresh pepper, removing the seeds and veins if you are timid, and add to your whatever. Green sauces are also pleasant. If you crave a verdant coating to your meat or veggies, try our aji verde.

But Trader Joe Jalapeño Sauce? No, y bienvenidos a la basura!

Have you ever been disappointed with a Trader Joe’s product? Please share in the comments!

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Hacking Trader Joe’s Cheese Bites

Parmesan Gran Padano Cheese Bites

Copycat Trader Joe’s Cheese Bites made with parmesan and Gran Padano

Trader Joe’s Cheese Bites and similar products are taking the world by storm. They were one of the top trends we identified at the recent Fancy Food Show in NYC. And what’s not to love? They’re delicious, full of protein and have zero carbs so they’re perfect for keto diets.

But the bites are not cheap, starting at $2.40-2.70 for a 2.11 oz (60 g) bag at Trader Joes and going up from there. So perhaps we can save some money by making an equivalent product at home? A blogger named Become Betty had already done the groundwork, identifying the cheese ratio at Trader Joes as 1 part Parmesan and 3 parts Grana Padano, an aged version of Parmesan, and recommending a cooking time of 11-14 minutes at 400 degrees for a shredded mixture.

Cheese Bites Ready for Oven

Cheese bites on silicone pad, ready for the oven

So we set out to make ourselves a bunch of cheese bites. We bought grated parmesan for $6.99 and Gran Padano at $12.99 at our co-op and shredded the latter, then mixed them and made bites of a heaping teaspoon each. Become Betty uses a “mini muffin tray” which we didn’t have but we cooked some in a muffin pan, others heaped on a silicon pad atop a half sheet pan. In they went for 10 minutes, checked to see if they would need longer cooking time. They didn’t.

Broken Cheese Bites

Cheese Bites cooked in muffin tins broke apart when removed

After 10 minutes the water had evaporated from the cheese and the fat had oozed out and the cheese coalesced into an appealing wafer. We got the best results from the pieces on the open silicone pad.  The ones in the muffin pan fried on the bottom and stuck when we tried to get them out, then broke into less appealing but entirely edible pieces. The verdict? Delicious, as good as Trader Joe’s.

Cheddar Cheese Bites

Cheddar Cheese Bites

Next we tried a combo of one part parm, 3 parts sharp cheddar. This didn’t go well. The extra moisture in the cheddar made the wafers spread out too much when cooking but much worse, they had an ingredient that gave them a burned/bitter taste. At least we didn’t spend a lot of money on this experiment: our cheddar was just $5.99 lb.

Swiss Cheese Bites

Swiss Cheese Bites

Finally we took some cheap ($6.99/lb) swiss cheese and mixed it with parm 50/50 since the cheddar had been disappointing. This worked out well. Light, crispy, airy; one taster dubbed this the favorite of the evening.

If you have been keeping track of prices and quantities, you are guessing we saved money big time except on the Gran Padano version. But what we haven’t told you is that the amount of cheese by weight reduced almost 50% in each case as water and fat boiled away. The net cost by finished weight:

4.64 cents per gram for Gran Padano prep
1.60 cents per gram for cheddar fiasco
2.77 cents per gram for Swiss/parm mix
4.48 cents per gram for Trader Joe’s cheese bites at $2.69.

So you may or may not be saving money but it isn’t very much. If you consider that Trader Joe’s product started at around 4 ounces assuming the same attrition, that’s around $10/lb which is not bad at all for quality cheese. Meanwhile, we had a bunch of greasy pans to clean.

Now that we’ve got the basics down, we may try an all-parm version. And we’ll make some more of the Swiss for the taster who liked them. But for day to day cheese desiccation, we’ll leave it to the Trader in the future.

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We check out Wholesome Pantry from ShopRite

Wholesome Pantry Sweet Potato Tortilla Chips

Wholesome Pantry Sweet Potato Tortilla Chjips from ShopRite… delicious!

I agreed to sample the Wholesome Pantry line from ShopRite because I wanted to explore this chain anyway. But it turns out these products are really good! Some wicked clever food designer has picked up on the attributes people crave in snacks and taken them to another level.

Example: Sweet Potato Tortilla Chips really do have sweet potato as their third ingredient, after corn and oil, plus a bit of sugar! (No worries, it’s organic.) You get the crunch and familiar corn flavor but with a deeper, sweeter note. We ate the whole bag right away, but I think these would be amazing with guacamole.

Wholesome Pantry Maple Granola Bar with Pumpkin Seed

And: snack bars that really strut their stuff, rather than grinding up their featured ingredients. The Cranberry Almond Fruit and Nut Bar is festooned with big fat cranberries. The Maple Pumpkin Seed Granola Squares are covered with whole pumpkin seeds. The binding agent in these is agave and puffed rice, giving them a Rice-Crispy-squares texture which is quite appealing. Even humble Mango Slices were big and fat and dried to a perfect consistency which is chewy but quickly yields to hungry teeth.

As part of my assignment from ShopRite’s PR agency, I am supposed to report “how I’m snacking smarter this Summer”. Answer: I am going to get me some more of these treats, even though my nearest ShopRite is a good 30 miles away. Check out ShopRite.com/wholesomepantry and you’ll find that ShopRite has converted all its organic products (including bread and entrées) to Wholesome Pantry and they are now certified to contain 100% USDA Organic ingredients.

On my visit, I’ll also dig deeper into why ShopRite has some avid fans. My home base in the greater Albany/Capital District of upstate New York doesn’t have a single Ethiopian or Burmese or Filipino restaurant, but we’re burgeoning with supermarket choices. Price Chopper, a local chain that is also closest, is where I most often shop. For Italian specialties like Pastene Crushed Red Peppers, I’ll periodically visit Hannaford. We also have two smaller chains, Fresh Market and Healthy Living, and an outpost of Whole Foods. And of course there’s Walmart and Target for those who want to buy their food along with their sweatpants. And let’s not forget Trader Joe’s and its beehive parking lot.

Wholesome Pantry Packaging

Wholesome Pantry packaging

ShopRite is different because it’s the nation’s largest cooperative grocery chain, according to their website, which means stores or groups of stores are individually owned but share corporate management and distribution. As with any such operation, one can expect some variability from store to store.

The Albany location on Central Ave mostly impressed me with its vastness, while the Niskayuna store had narrow aisles, nooks and crannies and specials stuffed onto end caps, and the possibility of live uni at year-end (Sicilians use it for holiday pasta, and ShopRite is based in the Italian-American heartland of upper New Jersey). I missed it last year but they gave me the seafood department phone number so I can call and check next season.

I worked in supermarkets in many departments in my teens and learned that while they do their best to present an image of retail efficiency, they are at their heart overgrown delis. I look forward to exploring my semi-local ShopRite stores as I am stocking up on Wholesome Pantry.

This is a review of free product which was gobbled up by yours truly.

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Recipe: Seafood Cocktail Sauce

Seafood Cocktail Sauce

Seafood Cocktail Sauce with shrimp. The shrimp were boiled with Old Bay Seasoning which accounts for the pinkishness and flecks of spices. Delicious.

Why pay for an expensive bottle of seafood cocktail sauce that takes up room in your refrigerator, when you can make your own as needed with ingredients you already have on hand? Inspired by this recipe from Kitchn. Makes ¾ cup, more than enough for a pound of shrimp.

Ingredients:
½ c ketchup
2 T horseradish*
1 t lemon juice
½ t Worcestershire sauce
½ t hot sauce (Tabasco or Crystal)

Method: mix all ingredient and serve cold with chilled seafood.

*Use a good refrigerated (not shelf-stable) brand that has a little kick to it. If you are lucky enough to have access to Atomic, the brand used in foodservice, reduce to 2 t, taste, and add more if needed.

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Recipe: Garlic Comfit

Garlic Comfit

Garlic Comfit with the bag of garlic that had to be comfitted

I bought one of those big bags of peeled garlic and it was getting long in the tooth, so I made Garlic Comfit. The cloves retain their garlic-ness for use in cooked dishes, and I now have some nice flavored oil I can use for sautés and vinaigrettes. Adapted from this garlic comfit recipe from Saveur. Makes about 3 cups.

Ingredients:
1 ½ c good olive oil
1 ½ c peeled garlic cloves
1 ½ Kosher salt
10 whole black peppercorns
5 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 t dried thyme
1 bay leaf

Method: preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place all ingredients in an ovenproof bowl of pot that is narrow enough garlic is submerged. Cover and bake 1 hour, until garlic is fragrant and has darkened slightly. Cool and transfer to a 24 oz jar or other glass container. Will keep for several weeks under refrigeration.

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Recipe: Chinese Takeout Sweet and Sour Pork, Hacked

Sweet and Sour Pork Hack

Takeout Chinese Sweet and Sour Pork, hacked

Order sweet and sour pork at my local Chinese takeout place, and you’ll get a product that looks like the picture at the bottom of this post: individual pieces of pork battered and fried, with a tub of fluorescent sweet and sour sauce to dip them in or pour over the top. You and I can do better by hacking our Sweet and Sour Pork recipe, but with a few shortcuts to get you the table faster.

Ingredients:
1 large takeout serving of battered and fried pork, about 1 qt
1 T oil for wok
1 T minced garlic
1 green bell pepper, cut into ¾ inch pieces
1 onion, peeled and cut into ¾ inch pieces
½ c canned pineapple chunks

For the sauce:
3 T water (or Xiaoxing cooking wine or dry sherry)
2 t cornstarch
¼ c additional water
3 T ketchup
1 T vinegar (use rice vinegar if you have it, otherwise cider or white vinegar)
¼ pineapple juice (from can of pineapple)
Additional sauce from takeout place (optional)

Sweet and Sour Takeout

Chinese takeout sweet and sour, pre-hack

Method: mix 3 T water and cornstarch in a small bowl until cornstarch is dissolved, then add ¼ c water, ketchup, vinegar and pineapple juice and stir until blended. Heat the oil to medium and add garlic, pepper and onion to wok; cook while stirring till vegetables are softened but not limp. Add the pineapple chunks and pork then pour over sauce (include the sauce from the takeout place if you wish) and heat until sauce is thickened and all elements are evenly coated. Serve over rice.

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Food for Thought: Indian Instant Pot Cookbook

[6/23. See important UPDATE at the end of this post. Please read before you cook from this book!] Our extended family includes a two-career couple with two small children and, as you might expect, they are very strapped for time. They have enthusiastically embraced the Instant Pot and, on a recent visit, whipped out the Indian Instant Pot Cookbook by Urvashi Pitre and proceeded to make a Butter Chicken as good as any I’ve had. (That link is to the recipe within the New Yorker article which brought the author widespread attention as the “butter chicken lady”.) The chicken was tender, the sauce was as rich as expected, and this labor-intensive dish came together in under an hour, most of that cooking and pressure release time.

Turns out Urvahi Pitre is also the proprietor of the Two Sleevers blog, source of the Easy Bhindi Masala recipe shared a few days ago. I’ve been aware of this blog for some time; the odd name comes from the gastric sleeve weight reduction surgery Pitre and her husband had a few years ago. Originally, their blog chronicled their transition to a healthier lifestyle with an emphasis on low carb eating. There’s a lot of Indian on the website but recipes like Kichadi (rice with lentils) are not going to be found on a low-carb blog.

Recommendation: bookmark the blog, but also buy the book. (It’s currently around $10 on Amazon.) When it arrives, you might start by whipping up the Garam Masala spice mixture on p. 24; you’ll need it for the butter chicken. Then make some Paneer (Indian soft cheese, p. 32) and use it for Palak Paneer (p. 88) which will take you all of 30 minutes in the Instant Pot. Check it out.

6/23 UPDATE. I’ve always believed you need at least a cup of liquid in an Instant Pot recipe to generate sufficient pressure to seal the pot. Urvahi Pitre says this isn’t true and you can cook with much less liquid. Today I tried her Lamb Rogan Josh (p. 118) which contains just 1/4 c of water along with 1/4 c of thick Greek yoghurt. It never developed pressure and I got my first ever BURN notice on the display. Luckily I was able to rescue the lamb (and the now caked-on pot) before the dish was completely ruined, and I will finish it in a few hours on the stovetop. The moral of the story: don’t trust her low-liquid recipes. Find a way to incorporate at least a cup of liquid event if she doesn’t. It’s worth going to the trouble because the recipe (based on tasting the marinade) is delicious.

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