Burnt My Fingers

The death of Tex-Mex as we know it. Illustration borrowed from the Axios article.

“The death of Tex-Mex as we know it” was a headline in yesterday’s Axios News. I nearly spat out my taco when I read the words. Fortunately, it turns out the rumors of Tex-Mex cuisine dying are greatly exaggerated in order to create an hombre de paja with facts that don’t really support the writer’s premise.

Fact 1: several old school Tex-Mex eateries have closed recently in San Antonio, presumably the writer’s home base.
Fact 2: regional Mexican specialties such as birria are gaining popularity, presumably at the expense of Tex-Mex.
Fact 3: LA author Gustavo Arellano predicted the death of Tex-Mex in a book but now has changed his mind.
Fact 4: José R. Ralat, the taco editor at Texas Monthly, told Axios he believes Tex-Mex is thriving.

Does that sound like a death rattle to you? Me neither. Relax, and pass the guacamole.

I grew up eating Tex-Mex in Dallas, mostly at an outpost of the El Fenix chain which was around the corner from our house. The foods we ate were simple combo plates including rice, beans and an entrée with cheese melted on top. The waiters would always warn us the plates were hot because they were prepared in advance and quickly heated before serving. The Texas equivalent of a red sauce place, in other words.

Papitio’s Special combination plate at Avila’s in Dallas.

You could always get other foods at a Tex-Mex place, including steaks and fancy seafood dishes, but we came for the combo plates. After I grew up and moved away I became more discerning in return visits. Avila’s on Oak Lawn was a favorite. I’d take my mother there and she’d order her combo with chicken enchiladas and I would get chiles rellenos, fat ancho chiles stuffed with cheese. Check out Avila’s Yelp page and you can get a taste of what it’s like to eat there, including some very lively commentary from the owner and a detailed history of the establishment.

Any cuisine goes through fads and changes; think of how French cooking was attacked by cuisine minceur in the 80s. I would say this evolution is a sign of vitality, not weakness. The Axios article paints a picture of Tex-Mex as poor people’s food developed out of necessity, with the implication that it will lose popularity as more sophisticated alternatives become available. Nonsense. Every cuisine has simple, popular dishes that satisfy a craving, and crave Tex-Mex I did when I moved to California and there was lots of Mexican food but no Tex-Mex. (Cal-Mex, mentioned by the Axios author, is not a thing.) Wish I could have some right now.