Recipe: Prune Bacon Salad

Prune Bacon Salad Sandwich

Prune Bacon Salad Sandwich.

Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it! I bought a huge bag of prunes on sale from Bella Viva Orchards, my favorite source of dried fruit. Then I happened on Prunes for Epicures, a 1933 publication of the United Prune Growers of California. Kismet! Makes 4 sandwiches or salad servings.

Ingredients:
1 c prunes, cooked (see below)
8 slices bacon, cooked crisp
2 T chopped dill pickles or pickle relish
2 T Dijon mustard

Prunes for Epicures

Prunes for Epicures.

Directions: soften the prunes by simmering in water to cover for 30 minutes, or microwave 4 minutes then rest 4 minutes. Drain the liquid (which you can drink with a slice of lemon if you like) and chop the prunes fine. Crumble the bacon with the prunes and mix with pickles and mustard. Serve in a sandwich with mayonnaise, lettuce and sliced tomato or as a salad in a lettuce cup.

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Recipe: Italian Sub Rolls

Puffy Italian Sub Rolls

Puffy Italian Sub Rolls.

Sometimes you just want a soft, puffy Italian sub roll that will soak up the dressing and yield without a crunch when you bite into it. This recipe fits the bill. It’s also much simpler and more straightforward than our hoagie rolls which are chewy and resilient. Makes 4-8 individual sub rolls.

Ingredients:
300 grams lukewarm water (about 1 ¼ c)
2 t (or one packet) instant dried yeast
1 T sugar
1 ½ t salt
500 g all purpose flour (about 3 ½ c)
1 T olive oil

Method: combine water, yeast and sugar in mixing bowl and allow the yeast to bloom for 5 minutes or so. Add flour and salt and mix the dough. Knead until gluten is well developed, about 8 minutes. You can also use an orbital mixer (KitchenAid) and do the first step at first speed and the kneading step at second speed. The dough should just clear the sides of the bowl after a few minutes kneading; if it is too sticky add a bit of flour or if too dry add a few drops of water to adjust.

Add the olive oil to the mixing bowl and turn the ball of dough to evenly coat all surfaces. Cover and rest until the dough has doubled in size and is quite puffy; on a warm day this might take as little as an hour. Shape into balls of even size depending on how many puffy sub rolls you are making. We started with this recipe which calls for 8 rolls but they are rather dainty at 100 g each; next time we will go for 4 rolls or maybe split the difference at 6 rolls.

Sub with Prosciutto

This sub was made with 100g sub rolls so the ingredients are overflowing but it was mighty tasty.

Let your dough balls rest for a few minutes, then roll into cylinders that easily fit a half sheet pan—lengthwise for 4 rolls, crosswise for 8 rolls. Prepare the half sheet pan with a silicone pad or parchment paper dusted with cornmeal or polenta. Arrange the rolls on the pan, cover and rest 40 minutes or until they have expanded and regained their puffiness. At about 30 minutes, preheat oven to 425 degrees. Bake the rolls with steam* for 25 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool to room temperature before enjoying.

*See this post and also this post for techniques for generating steam in a home oven. Steam is not as critical for these buns as for baguettes so don’t stress too much about it. Heart’s Content Farmhouse, linked above, puts a pan in the oven below the baking sheet and pours a cup of water into it. We’ve used this technique with modest success but it can’t hurt.

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Recipe: Ployes (Buckwheat Pancakes)

Ployes Buckwheat Pancakes Butter

Ployes (Buckwheat Pancakes) with butter.

Ployes (rhymes with “boys”) Buckwheat Pancakes are a specialty of the Acadian region of Maine and eastern Quebec. I was lucky enough to bring back a mix made with fresh buckwheat flour from my Maine Kneading Conference, but you can make them from scratch with this official recipe from the University of Maine. There’s no eggs or dairy so the flavor primarily comes from the buckwheat; make sure you have a good product such as Bob’s Red Mill. You can eat them with butter and maple syrup and they will taste just as good as regular pancakes, but Acadians also eat them with cretons (a pate-like spread made with pork and warm spice flavors) or on their own as a portable snack. Makes 10 six-inch ployes.

Ingredients:
1 c buckwheat flour
1/3 c white flour
1 ½ t baking powder
½ t salt
1 c cold water
½ c hot water

Method: combine dry ingredients, add cold water and mix. Add hot water and mix some more until the batter is uniform without lumps. It should be somewhere between the consistency of pancake batter and crepe batter but not as liquid as water.

Ployes Butter Syrup

With butter and maple syrup… mmm.

Heat a nonstick skillet* over medium high heat (go for 400 degrees if you have a laser thermometer). Pour in a scoop of batter (we used a quarter cup measuring cup) and tilt the skillet so the pancake expands in the pan to 6-inch diameter. If the batter is thin enough, little “eyes” will appear all over the surface of the ploy at this point; if the pancake is too thick and eyes do not form, gobble up this test ploy and add water and stir before making the next one. DO NOT FLIP THE PLOY; it is done when the surface turns dull and the edges start to curl. Remove the finished pancake with a spatula and repeat, stirring the batter in between each batch.

It only takes about 10-15 minutes to make all your ployes, so you can spread them out on a countertop or keep warm in a low oven if you prefer. Serve with butter and syrup or maybe some jam or honey.

*It’s traditional to cook ployes in a cast iron skillet, but we found our Misen nonstick skillet made it much easier to tilt and expand the ployes with its lighter weight. If you don’t use a nonstick skillet you might need to add a dab of butter or bacon grease under your batter.

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Recipe: No-Bake Chocolate Cookies with Oats

No Bake Cookie

No-Bake Chocolate Cookie with Oats.

I ran into No-Bake Chocolate Cookies with Oats at a bake sale at my physical therapist. They’re mighty good and will give my Cashew Coconut Clusters some competition as a quick-energy snack. Makes maybe 2 dozen cookies depending on the size of your scoop.

Ingredients:
2 c white sugar
½ c whole milk
4 oz (1 stick/8 T) unsalted butter
Generous pinch of Kosher salt
4 T cocoa power (use something fancy if you have it, otherwise just plain Hershey’s Cocoa or equivalent)
3 c quick cooking oats
½ c creamy peanut butter (Trader Joe’s highly recommended)
1 T vanilla extract

Method: combine sugar, milk, butter, salt and cocoa in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer a couple minutes till sugar is dissolved and butter is melted, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and mix in oats, peanut butter and vanilla.

Prepare a half-sheet pan with parchment paper or a silicone pad. Use a spoon to shape and drop individual cookies onto the sheet. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes; they will cool to handling temperature but will still be a bit squishy. If you want more durable cookies, let them sit in the refrigerator till hardened then transfer to a container and keep in the fridge.

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Recipe: Fennel Cucumber Salad

Fennel Cucumber Salad

Fennel Cucumber Salad.

Half moons of fennel and cucumber have similar form factors, so seemed like a good idea to combine them in a fennel cucumber salad. A bit of sugar balances the astringency of the fennel. Thanks to this from NYT Cooking. Makes 4 appetizer servings.

Ingredients:
1 fennel bulb, trimmed at top and bottom then cut in half lengthwise and sliced into half-moons
1 medium cucumber, peeled and seeded then cut in half lengthwise and sliced into half-moons
1 t dried dill weed or 1 T fresh dill, chopped
½ t sugar
1 T white vinegar
1 T olive oil
½ t Kosher salt
A few grinds of black pepper

Method: combine all ingredients and macerate for a few minutes to develop flavors. Serve and enjoy.

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Recipe: Melissa Clark’s Red Lentil Soup

Melissa Clark Red Lentil Soup

Melissa Clark’s Red Lentil Soup.

In one of his weekly recipe roundups, the New York Times’ Sam Sifton mentioned Melissa Clark’s Red Lentil Soup as the only recipe she follows to the letter every time. Which got us wondering: what is so magical about this technique? Turns out the recipe does include variable ingredients and quantities… so not immutable after all. But it’s nourishing, easy, quick and cheap so we’re glad we found it. And yes, we’ve tweaked it as we always do. Makes about 4 delicious bowls of soup.

Ingredients:
I large onion, peeled and diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
3 T good olive oil
1 t ground cumin
½ t Kosher salt plus possibly more after tasting
¼ t ground black pepper
¼ t chili powder (your choice; we used a mild New Mexico variety)
1 c split red lentils (masoor dal)
4 c chicken or vegetable stock
Additional water as desired*
1 T lemon juice (or substitute 1 t ground sumac)
2 T finely chopped cilantro (or substitute 2 T finely chopped fresh mint or 2 t dried mint)

Red Lentil Soup

Alternate garnish of sumac and dried mint.

Method: sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil till wilted, around 3 minutes. Add the spices and sauté 2 more minutes till everything is reduced and aromatic. Add carrots, lentils and stock and simmer till the carrots are just tender, around 30 minutes. Transfer half the soup to a blender or use an immersion blender to purée so the soup is mostly a smooth even texture but still has lumpy bits. Add lemon juice or sumac and taste for seasoning; we think ½ t salt is enough but you might want more and you might add more chili powder. Serve garnished with chopped cilantro or mint.

*Melissa Clark adds 2 more cups of water to the 4 c stock, which we think is way too much. Without extra water, it’s the perfect pea soup texture. But add more if you like and adjust the seasoning if you do.

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Let’s talk about Saratoga County Restaurant Week

Saratoga County Restaurant Week Food

Some of the dishes featured in Saratoga County Restaurant Week 2023. Photos supplied by participating restaurants.

Restaurant weeks are promotional periods during which local establishments offer a special menu at a fixed price to attract more business. To us the fixed price is key. If it’s $35 for dinner, let’s say, I want to see what the restaurant can do for that amount of money. If it’s a special entrée and accompaniments not ordinarily on the menu and the price is appealing, I’ll be there when the door opens.

Saratoga County Restaurant Week 2023, currently underway, introduces a twist: no fixed pricing. Susan Mangini, who moderates a terrific food group on Facebook, clicked on each of the 50 restaurants listed on the website and found pricing from $16 to $50. Restaurants are listed in the order they signed up so it’s not easy to find a given place you’re interested in. (The early bird, Patricia Novo, was “happy to have top billing since I worked my butt off to submit our menu in a timely fashion.” She’s a shrewd marketer as well as a great restauranteur.)

I followed Susan’s lead and found several deals I’m interested in. Eddie F’s will give you a cup of chowder, a clam strip roll with slaw and fries and a cannoli at lunch for $15; this is definitely a deal since the excellent New England style rolls are regularly $15 on their own.  I’m also attracted to Fat Paulie’s offer of a sub with porchetta, fresh mozz and arugula for $12; this is a special sub not normally on the menu and they’ll throw in a soda to wash it down. At the other end of the spectrum is that $50 deal from Morton’s Steakhouse; that gets you starter, a 6 oz filet or other entrée, a side and dessert and is a relative bargain considering the 8 oz filet is $53 on its own on the regular menu. (The 8 oz steak is available for a $12 upcharge during restaurant week.)

I’m less interested in places that appear to featuring a regular menu at regular prices with a drink or a cookie thrown in; not naming names but you can find them easily on the Saratoga County Retaurant Week website. And am frustrated by Dunning Street Station, which publishes an appealing Italian menu without a price. I’d jump at the bargain at $25, probably consider it at $35, would pass at $50. That’s the frustration of a restaurant week without price categories.

Tom Thibeault, who has appeared on these pages as the purveyor and installer of our BlueStar stove, replies in Susan’s thread that “These people work so hard to bring us amazing restaurant experiences. Food pricing is at an all time high, inflation is thru the roof and there is labor shortages. Have you seen the rent in Saratoga County? If you need to nickel and dime people to eat out, you probably should re-evaluate your financial choices/short comings, and just stay home. You’re paying for so much more than the food.” All of which may be true but the issue is not the pricing but the difficulty of shopping the selection. A restaurant needs to skate the razor’s edge of attracting business without losing money, and throwing hurdles in the customer’s path doesn’t make it easier.

Do you have restaurant weeks where you live? What are your thoughts?

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My grape jelly secret

McDonalds Grape Jam

My secret grape jelly stash from McDonald’s.

Actually I have two grape jelly secrets. The first is that it is a surprising ingredient in our Mystery Mayo, the doenjang dressing in Koreatown A Cookbook and in this collection which aptly describes it as “bright, lightly colored and super fruity”. (I’m very close to trying her Grape Jelly Ritz Cracker Icebox Cake which is just what it sounds like.)

But I’m unlikely to use grape jelly as a condiment, not when I have Frog Hollow Orange Marmalade and some sunny apricot jam made from fruit picked at its peak in a Northern California orchard. And there’s no room in my pantry for a product used only occasionally and in small quantities. Which brings me to the second secret:

Grape Jelly Open

Yes, I know it is really grape jam (because it has pulp in it vs being strained) but “grape jelly” sounds more appealing.

You can get grape jelly FREE with the McDonalds mobile app. In fact, it appears you can order it as a condiment, add it to your bag, then check out with nothing else which means “no payment necessary “ per the checkout screen. But that’s too much chutzpah even for Burnt My Fingers. So we request 3 packets each time we get the excellent McGriddle with bacon and cheese or with sausage and cheese and stash them away for future use. Pretty soon I’ll have enough for Crockpot Meatballs with Grape Jelly Sauce!

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What’s the best city for pizza?

Whitman Detroit Pizza

Does Detroit-style pizza make it the best pizza city? Photo courtesy Walt & Whitman.

What’s the best city in the USA for pizza? According to this source it’s Detroit, for the second year in a row. Diving into details:

  • Detroit is America’s best city for pizza, with low prices and the highest online search activity for pizza.
  • Americans think New York is the best pizza city, with 41% listing it among their top five pizza cities. Los Angeles (40%) ranks No. 2, and Chicago ranks No. 3 (35%).
    • Americans are the least impressed with Oklahoma City, Providence, Rhode Island, and Columbus, Ohio — just 2% consider them top five pizza cities.
  • Phoenix is the most improved pizza city, rising to No. 4 in our rankings from No. 42 last year because of its high Yelp ratings for pizza restaurants and a strong showing in our pizza reputation poll.
  • Pennsylvania is the surprising best state for pizza, with Philadelphia and Pittsburgh each making the top 10.
  • San Diego’s pizza restaurants have the highest average Yelp rating at 4.2 stars.
    • Memphis, Tennessee, has the lowest average at 3.1 stars.
  • Buffalo, New York, has the highest rate of pizza restaurants per capita, with 17.9 pizza shops per 100,000 residents.
    • Dallas has the lowest rate, with just 2.7 pizza restaurants per 100,000 people.
  • Cleveland has the most affordable pizza prices. A large cheese pizza costs about $12.40, nearly 3x cheaper than the $30.67 you’d pay in New York.
  • San Antonio is the worst city for pizza, with high prices and very little interest in pizza, according to online search activity.

At this point you’re probably asking, who sez? The rankings come from Clever, which does research for real estate companies. (If you are thinking about moving to a new city, or want justification for staying where you are, localized factoids are probably of great interest.) Here’s their methodology:

The cities in this study are ranked according to six different factors, which were independently weighted and combined to produce our final results. The factors are:

  • A Pollfish survey of 1,000 Americans, who identified cities with a great pizza scene (30.8%)
  • Our “pizza passion” score — a combination of Google search volume for 25 different pizza terms (30.7%)
  • Average price of a large cheese pizza (15.4%)
  • Average price of a large pepperoni pizza (7.7%)
  • Average Yelp rating of pizza restaurants in the city (7.7%)
  • Pizza restaurants per 100,000 people (7.7%)
Detroit Pizza Edge

Detail of the crispy edge on a Detroit style pizza. Photo courtesy our Yelp friend Roger K.

Data sources include Yelp, Google Trends, the U.S. Census, our own survey data, and numerous individual pizza restaurant websites.

Notice anything missing? Yep, the standardization on “large cheese pizza” and “large pepperoni pizza” assumes that all pizzas everywhere are the same which they certainly are not. Detroit features a distinctive style with the pie baked in a well-oiled sheet pan, so the edges become crispy. (Our photos come from Walt & Whitman in Saratoga Springs NY, which prides itself on its fidelity to the original.) It’s very different from the Greek style pizza at Campisi’s in Dallas or the chicken enchilada pizza which was ranked as a top choice by San Antonio Magazine.

It’s fun to make lists like this and just as fun to find fault with them. We’re especially cranky because our benighted Capital District is not included, since Clever focuses on the biggest cities in each state and Albany is #6 in New York. Which means New Haven CT, which actually is the best city for pizza, does not make the cut. Sorry, Frank Pepe.

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Taste test: How to keep bean sprouts fresh

Fresh Bean Sprouts

Big bag of bean sprouts as it came from the store.

In the frozen tundra where I live, it’s a half hour drive to the nearest Asian market selling fresh bean sprouts. Consequently, I always buy more than I need. And the unused portion slowly turns into a sad puddle in my fridge.

But does it have to be that way?

My current Asian market only sells prepackaged fresh bean sprouts, vs the other market that lets you grab them out of a bin with your hands. The bags of sprouts looked very fresh and healthy on my recent trip, but the lightest bag weighed almost 2 pounds. Rather than face certain spoilage, I decided it was time for a Burnt My Fingers Taste Test.

Blanched Bean Sprouts

Bean sprouts blanched for 1 minute, after 1 week.

Most ol the sprouts were scooped out of the grocery store bag (intentionally leaving a few, as a control in our test) and thoroughly rinsed.

Group 1 was submerged in water without further ado, to see if exposure to air was the problem.

Group 2 was microwaved on High for 1 minute in a 1600 Kw microwave.

Group 3 was blanched: water was brought to a boil, sprouts were dropped in, waited for water to return to boil and simmered exactly 1 minute then plunged into ice water.

Group 4 was blanched same as group 3, then placed in the freezer. The other groups were placed in covered dishes in the refrigerator.

Microwave Bean Sprouts

Bean sprouts microwaved for 1 minute, after 1 week.

One week later, we returned to review the results. Mung bean sprouts have a mild vegetal taste, but the main thing they add to a dish is texture. They crunch when you bite into them and pop with the liquid inside. That’s the standard our preserved sprouts would have to achieve.

Each of the preservation methods above was recommended on the usually reliable internet as the best way to keep bean sprouts fresh. Yet microwaving, blanching and blanching+freezing yielded an unusable product, at least for dishes where a crispy bean sprout is required such as pad thai. They might be okay folded into a pancake or egg foo yung, except for the defrosted test batch which was a sodden mess.

Frozen Bean Sprouts

Bean sprouts which were blanched, then frozen for 1 week, then thawed. Yuck.

Thus, the runner-up award goes to the bean sprouts that stayed in their original package. Ye,s there was some moisture in the bottom of the bag, but I could have picked out a few usable sprouts. This is 9 days after purchase—2 until I got around to setting up my test, then another week for the experiment,

And #1? The bean sprouts which had been submerged in water the entire time. The water got a little cloudy over a week but once drained and allowed to dry out the sprouts were virtually the same as when we started. Still plenty of crunch and no off taste. So there you have it: storing in fresh cold water is the best way to keep bean sprouts fresh.

Bean Sprouts in Water

The winner: bean sprights stored in fresh water, after 1 week.

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