Recipe: Crab and Corn Fritters

Crab and /corn Fritters

Crab and Corn Fritters.

Why dilute perfectly good crab meat with cracker crumbs when you can make Crab and Corn Fritters? This recipe is particularly good right now, when fresh corn is in season. Makes about 20 fritters.

Ingredients:
Corn kernels from 2 ears fresh corn, about 2 c
½ lb lump crab meat
1 c all purpose flour
1 ½ t baking powder
1 ½ t sugar
¾ t Kosher salt
2 large eggs
1 c whole milk
1 t Tabasco
½ t Worcestershire sauce
Oil for deep frying

Method: beat eggs and combine with other wet ingredients; mix thoroughly with whisk. Mix dry ingredients thoroughly then make a well in the middle and pour in wet mixture; whisk or stir to combine. Gently fold in corn and crabmeat, taking care to keep crab pieces intact.

Crab Fritters Racked

Recipe makes about 20 fritters, or 4-6 appetizer portions.

Heat oil to 325 degrees and add fritters one at a time, using a tablespoon or scoop to make 2 T portions. (Mound the batter high in the spoon to do this.) Fry 2-3 minutes till the bottom is golden brown; flip over and repeat. Drain on a rack or paper towels.

Serve hot, with garnish of Kewpie mayo, tartar sauce or lemon juice. Leftover fritters can be frozen and reheated in oven with little loss in quality. For best results, freeze individual fritters on a sheet tray then transfer to a storage container.

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Okay, not all frozen pizza is terrible.

Frozen Pizza

We tried all these frozen pizzas. With one exception, they weren’t terrible.

Last week’s post produced a number of comments from people who have found decent frozen pizzas at Aldi’s and Trader Joe’s. After trying them, we have to agree that not all frozen pizza is terrible and the problem is the low expectations that supermarkets have for their customers when stocking the freezer case. Here’s what we tried:

Roasted Garlic and Pesto Pizza with Deep Fried Crust from Trader Joe’s. Good flavors and an addictive chewy crust. (One commenter said he liked the crust so much he wished he could buy it plain and add its own toppings.) It didn’t have enough toppings for us, but that’s our general complaint about Neapolitan-style pizzas.

Pizza Parlano from Trader Joe’s. The Trader features this pie proudly on his website and several readers recommended it, but it’s a hard pass for us. Crust and toppings have the mediocre taste and texture of the frozen pizzas that prompted our original outrage, in spite of “Italian sausage, uncured pepperoni, roasted peppers & roasted onions”. Actually, we think the inclusion of green peppers may be a key to the frozen pizza problem as they turn watery when heated up.

Artisan Style Crust Pizza: Pepperoni with Mushrooms and Black Olives from Aldi’s.  Really good sharp flavors, especially the black olives, on a crust that was neither too crackery or too bready. Readers had recommended several Aldi’s pizzas, but our local store was out of most of them. We also tried:

Carolina Inspired BBQ Thin Crust Pizza from Aldi’s. The most cracker-y crust of any we tried, but redeemed by a generous and juicy topping with a sweet barbecue flavor. A lesson to other makers who keep their toppings light because they think the thin crust won’t stand up to thicker layers of cheese and sauce.

PICS Artisanal Pizza

A surprise in our supermarket pizza case!

Semidried Tomato & Brie Pizza from Price Chopper. A sleeper! We found this in the freezer case in our local supermarket alongside other thoroughly mediocre pizzas with the PICS house brand. The toppings were juicy and flavorful and the crust was just right; wouldn’t be upset to be served this at a pizzeria. Sadly, this is the only “Artisanal Hand-Crafted” pizza in the case. The awkward title (and the fact it is not included in the pizza listings on their website) suggests some marketing experimentation at work. We hope it is successful because we would buy more pizzas like this one.

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July 4th Barbecue

4th of July Burger

4th of July burger with cheese between two patties.

We have a “Firecracker 4” run in our town that attracts thousands of visitors and our friends’ son Shea Weilbaker has won it twice in a row. We’ll go downtown to see if he three-peats, then turn our attention to serious 4th of July business: barbecue.

Our smoker is on hiatus so, though we have several racks of baby backs in the freezer, we’ll probably go with a double grilled hamburger (our recipe has lots of mods for this simple repast), Jack Daniels-style baked beans and some Better-than-KFC Cole Slaw. And maybe some nice mustardy Texas-style potato salad.  Dessert might be pecan pie, Mom’s chess pie or we might get lazy and go for a double scoop at our nearby Stewart’s.

Mom's Chess Pie

Mom’s Chess Pie with whipped cream, an excellent addition. Photo by Becca Oppenneer.

And, no 4th would be complete without fireworks, which have been in short supply in recent years due to civic budgetary problems, COVID and other distractions. But now there’s a big display planned from the roof of our local parking garage so we’ll hope the rain stays away.

While you’re partying, remember that the holiday is not actually about beer and sunburn but liberty and justice for all. In fact, if you have a Penzey’s store near you you can get Justice (or another half-cup spice or blend) for free by buying $5 worth of something else. Saving money while celebrating… now that’s the American way!

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Why is frozen pizza so terrible?

Cape Cod Cafe Pizza

Cape Cod Cafe Pizza.

Last night I was at my local supermarket and, on a whim, decided to have frozen pizza for dinner. Looking for something different, I went for the Cape Cod Café Pepperoni Pizza which, according to the label, is made by the founder’s grandsons who “carry on the tradition of hard work and the mentality of never cutting corners to make sure the pizzas today are the same as Papa made them over 80 years ago.”

I cooked the pie according to the package directions and it was just awful. Unpleasant to eat, unpleasant again when it haunted me in the middle of the night. And it made me realize how unsatisfactory frozen pizzas are in general because of a Hobbesian choice: the producer can use a prebaked crust, in which the pie is dry and cracker-y, or a “rising crust” which bakes in the oven and is doughy and bready. In both cases the crust insults and overwhelms the toppings.

Have I ever had a frozen pizza I would eat again? Vicolo’s is a brand with a thick cornmeal crust you can buy on the west coast. In this case the crust becomes a benefit, but the frozen pizza can’t hold a candle to the fresh pies that were sold in Vicolo’s now-closed restaurant. Actually, turns out we did a frozen pizza taste test back in 2017 in which we tried 3 different brands and found them all woeful.  If anyone has a frozen pizza they would recommend, I would like to hear about it!

Cape Cod Cafe Pizza

This picture is from the Cape Cod Cafe website and also appears on the Goldbelly page. Now that looks like something I might eat…

Getting back to Cape Cod pizza, the claim that my frozen hockey puck was made the same as 80 years ago is probably not true; a third party processing plant is likely involved though it is not identified on the package. Goldbelly will ship you 4 actual pies from the pizza shop for $99; they look quite different on the website from my supermarket product.

And according to a Google search result“[Cape Cod style is] a specific kind of pizza — a 10-inch pie with a flaky, buttery crust that has sauce and cheese to the edges. They’re usually topped with a combination of mozzarella and cheddar cheese and can have “laced” — or burnt — edges.” Sounds interesting. If I get to Cape Cod I just might try one.

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Food for thought: Chinese Food & History blog

Biryani

Biryani, or is it? From the Chinese Food & History blog.

After the Chinese culinary history class I reported on at my college reunion, Professor Maddalena Poli referred me to Miranda Brown’s Chinese Food & History blog which I suspect may have been an inspiration for her own course. The blog reports on a variety of topics but the most interesting to us are those including ASIAN 258 in the title and especially this introductory post. From the context we can gather that Asian 258 is a very popular elective with a sizeable waiting list; during the pandemic Professor Brown opted to teach the course online through blog posts and related materials.

Being a modern academic, Brown is very concerned about cultural appropriation. She gets into this topic at the end of the above post then wades deeper in The Great Noodle Debate, in which she provides evidence that not only was pasta invented in China, Europe was a late comer to the rolled dough game. Take that, Marco Polo.

In Eating Tempura, Living Dangerously: Nagasaki 1600 (AS 258), she demonstrates that Japanese tempura actually came from Portugal along with a number of other dishes. (The “danger” came from the fact that if you became overly enamored of Portuguese culture in 1600s Nagasaki and converted to Christianity, you were likely to meet a bad end.) Examination of the origins of curry, churros and kimchi in later posts yield similar results. The posts are full of links, to scholarly references, other Asian food blogs and, most important, recipes using the foods she talks about.

Homemade Dry Gluten

Gluten sponges from scratch.

By now we’re very deep down a rabbit hole, but the rabbit is delicious. And then, just like that, the semester is over and the blog comes to an end. The final post is simply a recipe, Gluten “sponges” from scratch. Eating meat substitutes has never appealed to me, but now I want to make it at home. Cultural appropriation at work? Check it out.

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Recipe: Avjar Red Pepper Spread

Ajvar

Ajvar Roasted Red Pepper Spread.

Avjar is a condiment used through the Balkans made with ground red peppers plus some eggplant to stretch the recipe. Serious Eats did an exhaustive experiment to find the best avjar recipe and we followed their method. The result was good and went great with cevapcici, but it was too mild made with domestic red bell peppers so we added a bit of cayenne for a kick. It turns out you can order Bulgarian avjar on Amazon for a very low price—currently $14 for a 2 kilo can—so we’ll probably do that next time. Makes 2 c.

Ingredients:
2 lb red bell peppers (about 4 large ones)
1 small eggplant (about 3/4 pound)
2 T minced garlic
½ t cayenne, plus more to taste
¼ c olive oil
1 T white vinegar
1 T kosher salt
¼ t ground black pepper

Method: roast peppers on stovetop, under broiler or over a charcoal fire, turning frequently until all sides are black and blistered. Transfer to a paper bag, seal and wait for the peppers to cool. It will then be easy to peel them by hand, removing stem and seeds as you go. Transfer peeled peppers to a food processor. Poke holes all over eggplant with a fork, cut it in half, brush the cut side with olive oil and roast cut side down on a silicon pad or parchment paper in a sheet pan in 450 degree oven for about 35 minutes or until soft and deflated. Cool and scoop as you would an avocado, scraping a spoon against the skin from the inside to extract as much meat as possible.

Transfer eggplant meat to the food processor along with garlic and blend to a paste. Add with all other ingredients to a saucepan and simmer until liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes over very low heat. Taste and add cayenne, salt and pepper as needed. Serve with grilled meat or maybe on burgers. Leftover ajvar will keep a couple of weeks in the refrigerator, or indefinitely in the freezer.

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Are Trader Joe’s Savory Thins the world’s best cracker?

ThinsWithCotswold

World’s best cracker? Trader Joe’s Savory Thin Crackers.

We always have a box or two of Trader Joe’s Savory Thin Crackers around. Luckily, they keep for a very long time. Boxes found after a year in the back of the cupboard do not taste stale. Even open packages will be crisp and flavorful for weeks. (But store in a zipper bag, just to be safe.)

The flavor is mild but pleasant: salt, and a bit of sesame. Trader Joe’s Savory Thin Crackers are best with cheese (any cheese) but the taste will not clash with patés or vegetable spreads. They’re sturdy enough to handle a spread but be careful adding a hard cheese because they may crack in half. (So apply that hard cheese while the cracker is on the plate, not in your hand.) Once the topping has been added, it will stay in place on the way to your mouth. When it encounters teeth the cracker neither resists or disintegrates but breaks apart just when you want it to.

CrackersNCotswold

Trader Joe’s Savory Thin Crackers with Cotswold cheese, a favorite combo.

Storage, usability, texture, flavor all get high scores when you are looking for a cracker that plays well with toppings instead of asserting itself. Really, we can’t find anything not to like. Oh, and they’re gluten free. We can’t claim they’re the world’s best cracker because that statement is impossible to prove, but Trader Joe’s Savory Thin Crackers are the official cracker of Burnt My Fingers.

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Recipe: Cevapcici (or cevabcici)

Cevapcici Grilling

Cevapcici on the grill.

Cevapcici is a skinless sausage popular in slightly different versions throughout the Balkans. The secret ingredient that makes it a sausage, not a burger, is the baking soda. A small amount makes the ground meat firm and springy so it doesn’t come apart when grilled and turned. This cevapcici recipe makes about 12 sausages.

Ingredients:
1 lb ground beef
1 lb ground lamb*
1/2 c finely chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 t paprika (we used a hot smoked variety from Spain)
1 t salt
½ t black pepper
½ t ground cumin
1 t baking soda
½ c chopped parsley (optional)
Olive oil for grilling

Cevapcici Flat

Cevapcici and condiments on a flat (pocketless) Greek pita. Next time I’ll make the sausages a little longer to fit the bread better.

Method: combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Rest at least 1 hour so the meat can firm up and the flavors will mix. Form into sausages a little shorter and fatter than a hot dog. Brush the sausages with olive oil (to prevent sticking) and then grill to your preference, turning once. (We like them medium rare.) Serve on pita bread with sour cream, onions and avjar (a mild red pepper sauce).

*We’ve found that the ground lamb sold in stores is extremely fatty so we grind our own from a leg or shoulder cut.

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Variations on a pickled onion

Soft Pickled Onion

Today’s pickled onion was cooked to a soft, almost spreadable consistency.

We grilled cevapcici (an Adriatic sausage) to serve with avjar (a red pepper topping) on Memorial Day. What else do you need? Onion, of course. There are already three pickled onion recipes on Burnt My Fingers, but we went a different route, cooking red onion slightly in the brine so it becomes soft and almost spreadable. This made us think about the many pickled onion variations and the ways to use this versatile allium.

Which onion to start with? It’s hard to pass up the chance to pickle a red onion and watch its rings turn a pale pink that makes a striking presentation on a burger or a pickle plate. But white and yellow onions have their place, as in our Pickled Onion a la Mexicana recipe where we want the spices to be visible.

What spices to use? Today we added a scoop of Penzey’s Pickling Spice—excellent like all their products. Oregano and a bay leaf have their place. Some folks like to add a base flavor with salt and/or sugar but today we left those out and didn’t miss them. Also, a clove of garlic never hurt but it will only assert itself after the pickle has cured a while.

Vinegar/water blend? Typically 50/50. We generally use cider vinegar for flavor balance but white vinegar will add an appealing metallic sharpness and rice vinegar goes in the opposite direction, mild so the onion flavor stands out.

How to pickle? This decision makes a big difference in result. If you pour white vinegar (no water dilution for this prep) over onion slices and let them sit a couple days, as we do for vinegar peppers, you’ll end up with a mildly pickled product that retains its texture. Today’s prep was at the other end of the spectrum and we used it because we planned to serve a cucumber salad with sour cream and raw onions and wanted to distinguish between the flavors. But for most uses the best pickling method is to place the onion slices and accompaniments in a storage jar, bring brine to a boil and pour over. You’ll have a pickled product in an hour to that will keep for a week in the fridge.

Happy pickling.

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The Divisive Herb: Unraveling the Curious Case of Cilantro Detestation

DivisiveCoriander

Divisive Cilantro leaves; photo by Thamizhpparithi Maari from Wikipedia.

Introduction: In the culinary world, one cannot underestimate the power of herbs to ignite passion and divide opinions. Among these, cilantro, a verdant and pungent herb, has emerged as a perennial lightning rod, evoking intense love from some and vehement detestation from others. This essay seeks to explore the enigmatic phenomenon of cilantro hatred, examining its origins, cultural influences, and potential physiological factors. Through a lens inspired by the inimitable James Beard, we embark on a journey to understand why this humble herb incites such a fervor of aversion among certain individuals.

Cilantro: An Acquired Taste: Cilantro, known for its vibrant leaves and aromatic presence, plays an indispensable role in numerous cuisines worldwide. Its distinctive flavor profile, described as citrusy, herbal, and slightly soapy, leaves an indelible mark on the palate. However, for a significant segment of the population, this sensory experience is far from pleasurable. Detractors claim that cilantro tastes like soap, socks, or even a repugnant amalgamation of both. This begs the question: why does cilantro elicit such extreme reactions?

Cultural Influence and Familiarity: To understand the origins of cilantro aversion, we must delve into cultural influences. Tastes and preferences are often shaped by culinary traditions and the flavors we are exposed to during our formative years. In cultures where cilantro holds a prominent position, such as in Mexican, Thai, and Indian cuisines, individuals are more likely to develop an affinity for its distinct flavor. Conversely, those unaccustomed to cilantro may perceive its taste as foreign and intrusive. The unfamiliarity and cultural dissonance can contribute to a heightened aversion. Genetics and the Flavor

Perception Conundrum: The intricate relationship between genetics and flavor perception adds another layer of complexity to the cilantro enigma. Studies have revealed that a specific genetic variation in the olfactory receptor genes, OR6A2, may play a crucial role in determining one’s perception of cilantro. Those with this genetic variation often describe cilantro as unpleasant and soapy, while others lack the gene variant and find the herb enjoyable. This biological predisposition underlines the fact that the aversion to cilantro is not merely a matter of personal preference but rather a physiological response deeply ingrained within our genetic makeup.

The Power of Association: The human brain possesses a remarkable ability to associate sensory experiences with emotional responses. For cilantro haters, negative associations may emerge from past encounters with the herb or its presence in unpalatable dishes. One bad experience can taint an individual’s perception of cilantro, leading to an enduring aversion. Furthermore, cultural factors, such as media portrayals or negative social cues, can amplify these negative associations, reinforcing the dislike for cilantro even further.

Culinary Diversity and the Quest for Balance: In the world of gastronomy, diversity reigns supreme. The kaleidoscope of flavors and textures invites both experimentation and subjective opinions. While cilantro haters may feel alienated by the herb’s pervasive presence in certain cuisines, it is vital to acknowledge that culinary harmony thrives on a delicate equilibrium. Chefs and home cooks alike must strive to strike a balance, accommodating varying palates and preferences while preserving the essence of their respective culinary traditions. By recognizing the divisive nature of cilantro, we can foster an inclusive culinary landscape that celebrates diversity without disregarding the individual’s sensory experiences.

Conclusion: The enigma of cilantro aversion continues to puzzle and fascinate us. Through an exploration of cultural influences, genetic predispositions, and associative powers, we have gained valuable insights into [THE END]

WHAT IS THE ABOVE ALL ABOUT? I asked the ChatbotGPT app on my iPhone to write an 800 word essay in the style of James Beard on why some people hate cilantro. The above was generated within 10 seconds. Yes, it is 800 words but that’s because the AI cut itself off in the middle of a sentence. As a food writer I do not feel threatened … yet.

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