Get out and vote… for small family farms

It’s election day… so I am indulging myself with a political post. After you return from your polling place, I’m asking you to spend 15 minutes getting up to speed with the proposed new regulations of the Food Safety Modernization Act (FSMA for short). The commenting period ends November 15, so don’t wait. Really: do it today. Vote for small family farms.

I learned about the concerns with the FSMA from the folks at National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition, who were on hand at Farm Aid back in September. NSAC’s tenet is that the shorter distance food has to travel from farm to market, the safer it is and the less likely it is to be exposed to contaminants. Close-to-home farming also eliminates problems of scale like the e. coli contamination of Earthbound Farms organic lettuce a few years back which sickened people across the nation.

The intent of the FSMA was to make the FDA proactive, instead of reactive, in handling problems in food safety. But it adopts a one-size-fits-all approach that makes many of its proposed new rules impractical and/or expensive for small farmers practicing the close-to-home distribution I just described. According to the FDA’s own calculations, food producers with 20 or fewer employees would bear 73% of the cost of implementing the preventative controls—even though they produce just 4% of the food produced in the U.S. (There is an exemption for farms that sell less that $25,000 a year in produce, but that’s a REALLY small farm and not sufficient to sustain a family.)

Here are a couple examples of well-meaning regulations that make me queasy:

If a farm uses manure to amend its fields and there is a “chance” covered produce will come into contact with the amendment after application, there is a 9-month waiting period before produce grown in those fields can be marketed. In many parts of the country, like upstate New York where I live, the growing season is less than 9 months long. So effectively farmers could only grow crops every other year.

If a farmers market vendor sells food they haven’t raised or produced themselves, that turns them into a “facility” which is subject to a host of new regulations. No more taking the neighbor farm’s cheese to market where you sell your own eggs. (You can also be labeled a facility if you “process” your food by, for example, slicing raw carrots into your farmers market salad mix.)

The FDA has made it very easy to comment on the proposed regulations which you can do here. They reported an “unprecedented” 800 comments for the Produce Safety part of the law, where comments are now closed, and promise to read and consider them in amending the rules.

Or, if you’re short on time, you can simply sign the Farm Aid petition that essentially tells the FDA that you expect them to do the right thing. Either way, thank you for reading and voting.

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Christina Tosi’s Halloween Snack Mix

Christina Tosi Snack Mix

Too much candy, not enough pretzels

Did anybody else try this recipe for Halloween Snack Mix? It was on the Food & Wine website yesterday. You take 2 cups of broken pretzels and toss with some melted butter, powdered dry milk, brown and granulated sugar and heat in a 275 degree oven for 25 minutes. Meanwhile you cut 12 oz of mini candy bars into 1/2 inch squares. Cool the pretzel mix, toss with the candy, and walla!

I was instantly suspicious because the proportions didn’t seem right… not enough pretzels. And the very low oven is not going to do anything to transform the ingredients. Then I noticed the recipe was from 2011, before Tosi achieved her current visibility. Maybe it was something she tossed off that wasn’t meant to be taken seriously.

We heated the melange in the microwave for a bit and allowed it to solidify into something more interesting. But the proportions are still wrong and next year I’ll try my own concoction. Meanwhile, if you still have Halloween leftovers, you might want to experiment with Michael Bauer’s Snack Mix… the secret ingredient is bacon fat!

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Recipe: Sauerbraten (German-Style Marinated Pot Roast)

Sauerbraten German Marinated Beef

Sauerbraten (with a side of garlic mashed potatoes)

The classic German Sauerbraten recipe produces a nice sweet-and-sour pot roast that goes great with other German sides, such as my kartoffelsalat. Serves 8.

Ingredients:
4-6 lb chuck roast or bottom round
Kosher salt and pepper
1 medium onion, sliced

3 c water
2/3 c cider vinegar
2/3 c red wine vinegar
3 cloves garlic
4 peppercorns
2 whole cloves
½ lemon, sliced
1 bay leaf

All purpose flour, for dredging
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
2 T beef or bacon fat
1 c chopped tomato (canned OK)
1 carrot, finely diced
1 T sugar

Method: Wipe meat dry with paper towels; rub with salt and pepper. Place in a large glass or earthenware dish and cover with sliced onions. Bring water, vinegar, garlic, peppercorn, cloves, lemons, bay leaf mixture to boil and pour over the meat. Cover tightly and allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate at least 24 hours and as long as 4 days, turning the meat occasionally. Drain off and reserve the marinade.

Saute chopped onions in fat in an oven-proof casserole pan. Dredge meat in flour and add to onions. Add tomato, carrot, and sugar. Add 2 c strained marinade. Cover and cook in 350 degree oven for 3 hours or until very tender. Serve with potato pancakes, egg noodles or other carbohydrate to mop up the amazing juice it gives off.

Note: this is a mashup of recipes from Gourmet Magazine and Chicago Culinary Academy, with my own modifications. It’s not as sour as some versions and the vegetables add a bit of visual interest. With the above proportions, the liquid will pretty much cook away; if you want more gravy then use more liquid. After the roast is done remove it to a serving plate, strain off liquid, add some flour to the fat in the bottom of the pan, stir on low heat till the flour is well combined, then slowly add back the liquid and mix until smooth. Some folks like to add a few spoonfuls of sour cream to the gravy as well.

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Recipe: Cornell-Style Grilled Chicken

CornellChicken

Cornell chicken should be nicely grilled but not super-dark

This is the tasty “barbecue” chicken served at church socials throughout the Northeast U.S. The Cornell chicken recipe makes enough to marinade and grill two whole chickens; if making just one chicken (or equivalent in pieces) you can refrigerate the leftover marinade (before it comes into contact with the chicken) for a couple of weeks.

Ingredients:
½ c cooking oil
1 c cider vinegar
2 T Kosher salt*
1 ½ t poultry seasoning
¼ t white pepper
1 egg
2 chickens, cut into serving pieces

Method: Beat egg, add other marinade ingredients, beat again to thoroughly emulsify. Pour over chicken pieces, toss to mix, and marinate at least 1 hour but no more than 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Cook on a medium grill until nicely browned and well done, about 45 minutes.

*This is a lot of salt, but it tastes right in the finished dish. Feel free to cut back to 1 T and add more at the table.

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Recipe: Favorite Pad Thai

PadThai

Pad Thai with the fixin’s.

Pad Thai with just the right balance of sour, sweet and salty. Adapted from the long out of print Thai Home-Cooking from Kamolmal’s Kitchen (Plume)

Ingredients:
¼ lb dried rice noodles (flat ones not “rice sticks”)
Hot water
2 T fish sauce (I use TiparosRed Boat)
3 T sugar
3 T white vinegar
½ t paprika*
4 T peanut or other vegetable oil (not olive oil)
1 T or more finely chopped garlic
4 oz. or more protein (optional): shrimp, chicken or tofu
4 fat green onions sliced on the bias into 2” lengths, including some green
1 egg
½ lb bean sprouts
Cilantro leaves (for garnish)
Finely chopped unsalted peanut (for garnish)
Lime wedges (for garnish)
Chili pepper flakes (for garnish)

Method: Soak noodles in hot (not boiling water) until they are flexible but not limp, about 15 minutes, then drain and set aside. This is a critical step: if you oversoak your noodles here, you will end up with mushy pad thai. Don’t do it.

Mix fish sauce, sugar, vinegar and paprika in a jar or cup till dried ingredients are dissolved.

Heat oil in wok until very hot; add garlic which should brown quickly without burning. Add optional protein and stir-fry till barely done. Add green onions. Break the egg into the wok and quickly stir with a wooden spoon to distribute as it cooks. Add noodles and flip a few times to coat with oil and egg. Add sauce liquid and boil until sauce has been absorbed by the noodles. (If they are still crispy after all the liquid is gone, add a bit more water.)

Add bean sprouts and toss in the noodles briefly; the heat of the dish will cook the sprouts. Serve with a garnish of pepper flakes, lime, cilantro and ground peanut.

Serves 2 as an entrée, or 4 as a side dish

*You can substitute tamarind, which is the traditional tart ingredient but a little more work. Pour 1/2 c hot water over 1/4 c chunk of “seeded” (it isn’t) tamarind and allow to soften and cool for a few minutes. Rub the tamarind between your fingers and remove seeds and large pieces of pulp. You’ll end up with about 1/4 c of tamarind gravy which should be added at the same time as the vinegar/sugar/fish sauce mixture.

THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN UPDATED as of 10/13; I realized I wasn’t using enough oil initially to separate the noodles.

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The Cornell Chicken and the Egg

My friend and fellow food blogger Deanna Fox wrote a great piece a while back on the origins of Cornell Chicken. This is a serving method and chicken marinade that was created at Cornell University in the 1940s as a way to promote the consumption of locally raised poultry. Deanna was kind enough to share the Cornell Chicken Pamphlet which was distributed at the time; it includes not only home and food-service scale recipes but example seating charts for a church supper or other occasion where the bird might be served.

I first encountered Cornell Chicken at a “Brooks Barbecue” in my wife’s home village of Speculator, NY. It was promoted several weeks in advance, and locals would wait in line at the pavilion on the ball field for their half-chicken dinners. The chicken was tender and tasty, though I bristled at the “barbecue” part since no smoke was involved. Deanna’s article explains that the Brooks family is from the Ithaca area, hence the Cornell connection, as are the proprietors of Giffy’s, a once-popular local chicken place which has fallen on hard times.

But here’s the thing. The marinade contains a raw egg! Doesn’t that just invite food safety issues since the chicken is likely to hang around for several hours before it is cooked, possibly without refrigeration? And why is the egg in there anyway? Deanna and Tom Gallagher, the Cornell Extension educational coordinator for our area, both felt it was an intuitive addition because if you’re promoting chickens, you might as well promote eggs while you’re at it. And Tom, who’s made the recipe himself many times, agrees that it helps to emulsify the ingredients.

But won’t you run the risk of salmonella poisoning… especially if, as the booklet suggests, you save unused dressing in a jar in a cool place for several weeks? For this I turned to Sandra Varno, a Cornell food safety expert. Don’t worry, she said, the vinegar in the dressing will keep the dressing safe even for that few weeks in a cool place (which she interprets to be a refrigerator). But it has to be virgin dressing that has not been contact with the chicken–otherwise all bets are off. This safe chicken barbecuing article tells more.

Whew. So it’s safe to make and eat Cornell Chicken. See the recipe here, or use the link above to download the PDF of the original  pamphlet from the 1940s.

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Recipe: Easy Baked Beans

BakedBeans

Baked Beans (they should look like this when done, with all liquid absorbed/evaporated)

Supermarket baked beans are pretty boring, but it’s easy to amp them up to something delicious. Makes 6 1/2 cup servings; just increase everything proportionately if you buy a bigger can of beans.

Ingredients:
28-oz can house-brand baked beans (the cheaper the better)
2 T cider vinegar
1/4 c brown sugar plus 2 T for topping
1 t dried mustard
1 T Worcestershire sauce
2 slices bacon, cut up into 6 pieces total
1 medium onion, finely sliced
Kosher salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste

Method: Dump beans and their liquid into an oven-safe bowl and add vinegar, 1/4 c brown sugar, dried mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Allow to sit a few minutes so mustard flavor can develop, then taste and add salt and pepper as desired. Cover top surface with sliced onion then bacon; sprinkle 2 T brown sugar over everything. Cook in 300 degree oven for at least 2 hours until the top is brown and crispy and the liquid has cooked down somewhat. Serve hot, warm or cold.

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Are food trucks over-rated?

OffTheGrid

Off the Grid food truck party in San Francisco

I’ve been eating at a lot of food trucks recently… at a local Food Truck Rodeo here in Saratoga, at the annual Eat Real event in Oakland, and at the weekly Off the Grid party in San Francisco’s Fort Mason. And my conclusion is that while food trucks have their place, not a few are coasting in neutral, taking advantage of the trend to sell mediocre food at prices that would never stick in a terrestrial establishment.

OddDuckFarmtoTrailer

Mind blowing food truck cooking from Odd Duck in Austin

I’ll start by saying that ome of the best meals I ever ate was from a food truck: a grilled romaine salad with soft boiled duck egg and cured duck breast at Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, a sadly defunct institution in Austin. (You can read my adoring review on Yelp.)

That was food truck eating at its finest: a meal as good as you could get in a restaurant, but with the added seasoning of a chef who’s figured out how to deal with the challenges of cooking in a very confined space with minimal prep area, refrigeration and storage. As I recall the meal was also an excellent value, which makes sense because there are no dishes or tablecloths to wash, no rent and utilities to pay.

And then there’s the gritty entrepreneurship of food trucks: not everybody can open a restaurant, but it seems more doable if you’ve been told you’re a good cook to hit the road in a food truck serving a limited menu. In fact, the more limited the better because the confines of a food truck allow you to specialize in one thing and do it well. (In the Bay Area, the “original” food trucks were taco wagons that still line up along Oakland’s International Boulevard, serving simple perfect edibles that last but a minute from stove to mouth.)

But that doesn’t excuse the thorough mediocrity of the endless repetitions of pork belly sliders at Fort Mason (or the current craze, sisig tacos) or just plain pizza or sandwiches that are supposed to be special (and command a higher price tag) when you buy them from a truck. Food truck wannabes, please have a raison d’etre before you ask me to stand in line in the heat, cold or rain. Otherwise, get a room.

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Five most unappreciated recipes from Burnt My Fingers

Maybe it’s just me, or maybe it was a bad day with a lot of distractions going on. But several really excellent recipes have been published on Burnt My Fingers that received very few page views. Yes, publishing a recipe index will fix that and I’m on it. But here are my five top unappreciated recipes in the meantime.

  1. Funny Bryan’s BBQ Sauce. OK, that’s my fault for naming it with a play on words on a place that nobody except Dallas medical students and patients knows about. Should have called it “Easy Texas BBQ Sauce” because it is. In well under 10 minutes, you can have an excellent topping for smoked meats (after tasting them sauceless, of course) and burgers.
  2. The Colonel’s Three-Bean Salad. KFC made an excellent bean salad but not enough people bought it so it was discontinued. I found a recipe on the internet and tinkered with it till it was a dead ringer. Am I the only person who likes bean salad? Come on, folks, give it a try.
  3. Pizza D’Oh! Another unfortunate naming choice, I guess. This no-brainer recipe produces a high quality crust very quickly and easily, thanks to the large amount of yeast. For best results use Richard and Nair’s Pizza Topping, also an underappreciated gem
  4. Caesar Salad. Really? Noody cares about making a classic Caesar with anchovy fillets and raw eggs? Or how to sous vide those eggs so they stay liquid in your dressing yet won’t kill you? Taste this this and you’ll never order an anchovy-less, egg-less Caesar or pour on bottled Caesar dressing again.
  5. Bonehead BBQ Chicken. Should have called this one “Wishbone Dressing Barbecue Chicken” because that’s all there is to it. Cut up and dry a chicken; douse with an 8-oz bottle of Wishbone Italian Dressing; marinate several hours; grill in your usual manner. Dedicated to the memory of my mom, who taught me things don’t have to be fancy to be good.
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Favorite recipes from Burnt My Fingers

How many recipes has Burnt My Fingers published? Certainly over a couple hundred. Here are my personal favorite recipes among them.

  1. Easy Blender Gazpacho. This is everything that Burnt My Fingers stands for: it’s easy, cheap and delicious. No reason to eat somebody else’s gazpacho when you can make this in your kitchen in minutes for pennies.

  2. Carnitas. Another very easy and delicious recipe. Get a pork butt. Cut it up. Put in a big pot and cover with water. Cook for hours and hours until the water is all gone and the meat crisps in the rendered fat. Done.

  3. My Brisket Recipe, Revisited. Follow this very simple recipe and you will have brisket that is vastly better than 99% of the stuff foisted off as “Barbecue” or “BBQ” or the shameful and disrespectful “’Cue”. Actually I’m surprised it didn’t make my readers’ top 5 in popularity.

  4. Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw. I love cole slaw and have published an inordinate number of cole slaw recipes. This is my personal favorite, along with everybody else’s. It’s quick and easy and made with ingredients I usually have around the house and you should too, like lots of garlic.

  5. General Tso’s Shrimp with Garlic Sauce. I missed the shrimp with garlic sauce at Taiwan on San Francisco’s Clement Street and tried to improvise my own. To my surprise it ended up better than the original with an excellence balance of sweet/hot/sour.

Next: we’ll wrap up with five recipes that deserve a lot more attention than they’ve received. There’s still time to vote for your favorites, if you like… just comment below or email.

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