Recipe: Easy Baked Beans

BakedBeans

Baked Beans (they should look like this when done, with all liquid absorbed/evaporated)

Supermarket baked beans are pretty boring, but it’s easy to amp them up to something delicious. Makes 6 1/2 cup servings; just increase everything proportionately if you buy a bigger can of beans.

Ingredients:
28-oz can house-brand baked beans (the cheaper the better)
2 T cider vinegar
1/4 c brown sugar plus 2 T for topping
1 t dried mustard
1 T Worcestershire sauce
2 slices bacon, cut up into 6 pieces total
1 medium onion, finely sliced
Kosher salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste

Method: Dump beans and their liquid into an oven-safe bowl and add vinegar, 1/4 c brown sugar, dried mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Allow to sit a few minutes so mustard flavor can develop, then taste and add salt and pepper as desired. Cover top surface with sliced onion then bacon; sprinkle 2 T brown sugar over everything. Cook in 300 degree oven for at least 2 hours until the top is brown and crispy and the liquid has cooked down somewhat. Serve hot, warm or cold.

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Are food trucks over-rated?

OffTheGrid

Off the Grid food truck party in San Francisco

I’ve been eating at a lot of food trucks recently… at a local Food Truck Rodeo here in Saratoga, at the annual Eat Real event in Oakland, and at the weekly Off the Grid party in San Francisco’s Fort Mason. And my conclusion is that while food trucks have their place, not a few are coasting in neutral, taking advantage of the trend to sell mediocre food at prices that would never stick in a terrestrial establishment.

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Mind blowing food truck cooking from Odd Duck in Austin

I’ll start by saying that ome of the best meals I ever ate was from a food truck: a grilled romaine salad with soft boiled duck egg and cured duck breast at Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, a sadly defunct institution in Austin. (You can read my adoring review on Yelp.)

That was food truck eating at its finest: a meal as good as you could get in a restaurant, but with the added seasoning of a chef who’s figured out how to deal with the challenges of cooking in a very confined space with minimal prep area, refrigeration and storage. As I recall the meal was also an excellent value, which makes sense because there are no dishes or tablecloths to wash, no rent and utilities to pay.

And then there’s the gritty entrepreneurship of food trucks: not everybody can open a restaurant, but it seems more doable if you’ve been told you’re a good cook to hit the road in a food truck serving a limited menu. In fact, the more limited the better because the confines of a food truck allow you to specialize in one thing and do it well. (In the Bay Area, the “original” food trucks were taco wagons that still line up along Oakland’s International Boulevard, serving simple perfect edibles that last but a minute from stove to mouth.)

But that doesn’t excuse the thorough mediocrity of the endless repetitions of pork belly sliders at Fort Mason (or the current craze, sisig tacos) or just plain pizza or sandwiches that are supposed to be special (and command a higher price tag) when you buy them from a truck. Food truck wannabes, please have a raison d’etre before you ask me to stand in line in the heat, cold or rain. Otherwise, get a room.

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Five most unappreciated recipes from Burnt My Fingers

Maybe it’s just me, or maybe it was a bad day with a lot of distractions going on. But several really excellent recipes have been published on Burnt My Fingers that received very few page views. Yes, publishing a recipe index will fix that and I’m on it. But here are my five top unappreciated recipes in the meantime.

  1. Funny Bryan’s BBQ Sauce. OK, that’s my fault for naming it with a play on words on a place that nobody except Dallas medical students and patients knows about. Should have called it “Easy Texas BBQ Sauce” because it is. In well under 10 minutes, you can have an excellent topping for smoked meats (after tasting them sauceless, of course) and burgers.
  2. The Colonel’s Three-Bean Salad. KFC made an excellent bean salad but not enough people bought it so it was discontinued. I found a recipe on the internet and tinkered with it till it was a dead ringer. Am I the only person who likes bean salad? Come on, folks, give it a try.
  3. Pizza D’Oh! Another unfortunate naming choice, I guess. This no-brainer recipe produces a high quality crust very quickly and easily, thanks to the large amount of yeast. For best results use Richard and Nair’s Pizza Topping, also an underappreciated gem
  4. Caesar Salad. Really? Noody cares about making a classic Caesar with anchovy fillets and raw eggs? Or how to sous vide those eggs so they stay liquid in your dressing yet won’t kill you? Taste this this and you’ll never order an anchovy-less, egg-less Caesar or pour on bottled Caesar dressing again.
  5. Bonehead BBQ Chicken. Should have called this one “Wishbone Dressing Barbecue Chicken” because that’s all there is to it. Cut up and dry a chicken; douse with an 8-oz bottle of Wishbone Italian Dressing; marinate several hours; grill in your usual manner. Dedicated to the memory of my mom, who taught me things don’t have to be fancy to be good.
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Favorite recipes from Burnt My Fingers

How many recipes has Burnt My Fingers published? Certainly over a couple hundred. Here are my personal favorite recipes among them.

  1. Easy Blender Gazpacho. This is everything that Burnt My Fingers stands for: it’s easy, cheap and delicious. No reason to eat somebody else’s gazpacho when you can make this in your kitchen in minutes for pennies.

  2. Carnitas. Another very easy and delicious recipe. Get a pork butt. Cut it up. Put in a big pot and cover with water. Cook for hours and hours until the water is all gone and the meat crisps in the rendered fat. Done.

  3. My Brisket Recipe, Revisited. Follow this very simple recipe and you will have brisket that is vastly better than 99% of the stuff foisted off as “Barbecue” or “BBQ” or the shameful and disrespectful “’Cue”. Actually I’m surprised it didn’t make my readers’ top 5 in popularity.

  4. Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw. I love cole slaw and have published an inordinate number of cole slaw recipes. This is my personal favorite, along with everybody else’s. It’s quick and easy and made with ingredients I usually have around the house and you should too, like lots of garlic.

  5. General Tso’s Shrimp with Garlic Sauce. I missed the shrimp with garlic sauce at Taiwan on San Francisco’s Clement Street and tried to improvise my own. To my surprise it ended up better than the original with an excellence balance of sweet/hot/sour.

Next: we’ll wrap up with five recipes that deserve a lot more attention than they’ve received. There’s still time to vote for your favorites, if you like… just comment below or email.

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My Five Most Popular Non-Recipe Posts

In honor of Burnt My Fingers’ second anniversary, I’m revisiting our most popular posts of all time. Here are the top five non-recipe posts:

  1. The Sauce that Made Mr. Durkee Famous. This was originally posted on my marketing blog, but didn’t gain any traction till it was re-directed here. I am so happy so many people are curious about my obsession with this product and its provenance.

  2. Turkey Joints from Nora’s of Rome, New York. Another food provenance post, this about a regional upstate New York product. Who says there isn’t interest in our emerging food scene?

  3. Can I Reuse Pickle Juice? I expect this is a question lots of people type into the Google search box, and I am happy to provide the answer. (Short version: no.)

  4. Red Boat Fish Sauce… da Shizz! Red Boat is good stuff, especially the small bottle of concentrated sauce that I dole out so carefully I’ve hardly made a dent in it. Read why and you’ll never buy Tiparos again.

The next two pageview winners are for “About” and “Stuff to Buy” but those are technically pages not posts, so the final spot goes to:

  1. Noonday Onions. A very simple ode to an unassuming but delicious varietal from Texas. I’m surprised to see it rank so high; guess a lot of people are curious about the origin of the peculiar name. Read it and find out.

Next: my personal favorite recipe posts.

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The five most popular recipes on Burnt My Fingers

As this blog passes its second anniversary (the first post was An Ode to Poundability on Sep. 20, 2011 though there are earlier posts redirected from my marketing blog), it might be interesting (to me, anyway), to review the most popular recipe posts. Here they are.

  1. Wilted Kale Salad. Although Burnt My Fingers is hardly about healthy living, this well-balanced salad can’t help but make you feel better and live longer. Good choice.

  2. Sizzling Chicken Sisig. If we revisit the list next year, this simple Pinoy bar snack will be #1… it was published in March of this year and already has over 2000 pageviews. The search engines in the Philippines must like it for some reason. Oddly, another Pinoy riff, Adobo Carnitas Style, hasn’t gotten the same traction.

  3. Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw. A lot of people would like to have the correct recipe for this intensely garlic-y slaw served at a classic Dallas restaurant, and here it is.

  4. Squash Casserole a la Highland Park Cafeteria. Another Dallas classic, made sweeter by the restaurant’s refusal to publish the recipe and my daughter’s success in sussing it out. (Read carefully: a key ingredient is the broken but not crumbled saltines.)

  5. Vinegar Cole Slaw. This is a surprise to see in the top 5 because it’s so simple. But it’s good. Try it.

Next: the top 5 non-recipe posts.

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Why I’m not buying a Sansaire sous vide device

Sansaire

Sansaire Sous Vide Cooker

The Kickstarter for the Sansaire sous vide device has taken the world by storm. It’s far surpassed its funding goal and now will include the “reach” of a 220V version, a reference towel included in orders, and a choice of colors for the display. A lot of the love in the culinary community is derived from the fact its inventor is Scott Heimendinger, the Seattle Food Geek who’s now part of the Nathan Myhrvold skunkworks and showed us how to make a sous vide device for $75 with readily available components.

You may remember I did some experimentation earlier this year with the SideKIC, a similar device invented by Duncan Werner (who, yes, was inspired by the $75 plans from Seattle) and reported on my own early efforts. The device has proven reliable and interestingly, our most regular use is to sous vide eggs so they are safe enough to be eaten “raw” in a Caesar salad or can be quickly turned to poached or uniquely fluffy fried eggs.

The Sansaire and the SideKIC work the same way: each hangs over the side of a water-filled container (which can be a cooking pot or a Coleman cooler—the bath never reaches a temperature which would affect the plastic). An electric coil heats the water and a fan circulates it to create an even temperature. The third and final element is a thermostat. That, plus vacuum sealable bags, is all you need for various magical preps in which food is held at a precise temperature for a long time until taste and chemical transformation occurs.

Sansaire has something the SideKIC doesn’t: a cool lighted LED display. (The SideKIC has an old-school color LCD.) It DOESN’T have something that both the devices could use: a timer that will turn it off when you direct. (Update: SideKIC inventor Duncan Werner said it was a design decision; “it’s generally safer to keep the temperature up then to let it drop. If for some reason you left something for an extra hour or so, it might overcook; but it would still be safe. For some things, like eggs, this might ruin it; but better safe than salmonella (so to speak).”)

Sansaire costs $200 and will be available in October-November. SideKIC is available now, from FatLaundry, for $170. Sansaire admits on its Kickstarter site there are still lots of QA and regulatory hurdles ahead. SideKIC is a proven product with a track record of a couple of years. I’m sure mine will give out eventually and then I’ll take a look at Sansaire but for now, I’m sticking with SideKIC.

UPDATE: Scott Heimendinger contacted me to point out a difference I missed: the Sansaire has a 1000W heater vs 300W for the SideKIC. “300W is not a lot of power – it’s just enough to maintain the water temperature in a smaller container, but it’s not quite enough to heat and maintain the temperature in larger vessels. For reference, it’s the same wattage as one of those immersion heaters you’d use to warm up a single cup of coffee. The Sansaire, by contrast, uses a 1000W heating element that can heat and maintain up to 6 gallons of water.”

Actually, I don’t use the SideKIC to heat my water because that seems inefficient. I use the stove to get it near the proper temperature then fine tune it with the thermostat on the device. 1000W seems a lot for a home electrical system. I’ve asked Scott to comment here if he likes… stay tuned.

P.S. In updating my knowledge I ran into this Reddit Q&A with Duncan Werner. Worth a read.

ANOTHER UPDATE: As of January 2015, inventor Duncan Werner may have stopped supporting the SideKIC. It’s no longer available on Amazon or FatLaundry, and the SideKIC website looks not to have been updated in a while.

My SideKIC still works fine and I’ll continue using it till it kicks the bucket. But if you want to buy a Sansaire or another sous vide device, be my guest.

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Finding bargains at Healthy Living Market in Saratoga

Healthy Living, the great new Whole Foods-like market in my town, is having its grand opening today from 11 am-2 pm in the parking lot outside the store. Lots of demos, activities and best of all food samples, all for free.  I’ll be there, for sure.

Healthy Living has achieved the nickname “Wealthy Living” from some who’ve compared its prices to other stores. If you’re budget conscious, this may not be the place to shop for kitchen staples. Yet finding bargains at Healthy Living is entirely possible if you know where to look. Here are my favorites:

1. Dry roasted peanuts in the bulk aisle at $3.79 a pound. Best peanuts ever!

2. Turn those peanuts into peanut butter, still $3.79 a pound. The machines are pre-loaded with peanuts and other nuts at the far end of the bulk aisle; hold a container under the spout, press the red button, and don’t forget to turn it of before the container overflows.

3. Cheese remainders in the end cap of the cooler aisle. HL’s cheese selection is excellent and in general priced below cheeses of similar quality at other stores. You can sample and put together a cheese plate for almost nothing with the ends-and-pieces in small chunks which are often around a dollar or two.

4. Bulk Red Star yeast in the dairy department. A small bag, enough for a dozen bakes, will cost you almost nothing and it’s fresher than the Fleischmann’s packets as well as far cheaper.

5. Judicious selections from the olive bar. $8.99 a pound for olives is average for a store like this, but I focus on the little peppadews, cipollini onions and caper salad. You can put together a small antipasto for under $3 which is a generous one-person appetizer on its own or can turn into a salad when tossed with lettuce and a squirt of good wine vinegar.

 

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Taste test: Big Peat blended Islay whisky

BigPeat

Interesting bottle art on Big Peat blended Islay

I love me a wee dram of Islay whisky. In its best rendition, it remind me of a pair of gym socks which have been washed in the salt water of the cold northern sea, drenched with sweat (and maybe a bit of blood) during an intense rugby game, then dried over a peaty fire. (Thus I don’t like Laphroig, a mass produced brand which reminds me of the sweat without the other nuances.)

I have tasted heaven in the 1991 Bowmore aged in Port barrels. I still have parts of two bottles, squirreled away on opposite coasts, and don’t expect to finish them before I expire. I’ve bought other, expensive bottles and more often than not have been disappointed. Typically, the Scotch is too mild: it doesn’t have the peaty bite which I demand.

Which brings me to Big Peat, which I found on the wonderful klwines.com site. A blended Islay? Ridiculous. But also fantastic. It’s got the peat essence just right, followed by a bizarrely smooth, Dewar’s-style finish which I will forgive because I like Dewar’s. And because it’s a blend it should be available for awhile, unlike other single-cask marvels which excite, then disappear.

This is a product plug with nothing in it for me other than making you happy. Get it at K&L for $56 plus a modest shipping cost (but no tax if you are out of CA). In case they’re sold out, google it. Seems to be widely available which is a good thing.

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Zak Pelaccio pig demo at SPAC Wine and Food Festival

ZacPelaccioPig

Zak goes at the pig with a bone saw.

The highlight of last weekend’s Saratoga Wine & Food Festival was the demo by Zak Pelaccio, chef and owner of the recently opened and highly regarded Fish & Game in Hudson. Here is a very successful chef with a global empire (earlier restaurants now have multiple branches in Asia) yet he’s funny, casual and utterly non-stuck up. Listening to him is like hanging out with your buddy and exchanging cooking ideas.

ZaksPiggie

On the left: smoked pork loin on pretzel bread with strawberry mustard. On the right: pork face roulade with bok choy kimchee.

In the first part of the demo, Zak broke down a pig and discussed how the parts could be used. I have to say, he spent a disproportionate amount of time on the head. This guy loves pig heads. He marveled at the “Waygu-like” jowl meat, chatted about the disposition of the ears and other parts, then lovingly peeled back the face and rolled it up for cooking with appropriate aromatics. The belly had already been dispatched to a nearby Green Egg smoker (a sponsor of the event) where it was cooking slowly over cherry wood.

ZakAndZori

Jori Emde and Zak Pelaccio cracking up

For the second part of the demo, Zak was joined by his equally engaging wife Jori Emde, who makes all kinds of magic with the local flora found in and around Hudson. Eg. Strawberry mustard with anise hyssop, a wild herb. And fish sauce made with local trout, shad and herring which are salted then cured in a spent bourbon barrel from a local distillery. Zak spent some time discussing the miracles of corn juice which he made in a blender, then combined with fish sauce and spices and whole corn kernels to make a base for the pork belly. And then we ate… and the next few lines of my notes are mostly exclamation points.

Pork BellyCorn

Smoked pork belly atop amazing niblets

Zak (who said this the first appearance they’ve made outside the restaurant since opening Fish & Game) devoted the rest of the afternoon to wandering the event and judging an amateur BBQ competition. I am eager to get down to Hudson and see what else this couple can do. Meanwhile, he gives us all new encouragement to experiment with ingredients because apparently almost anything is edible.

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