Recipe: Chicago-Style Giardiniera

Chicago-Style Giardiniera.

We have some Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches in our future for which Chicago-Style Giardiniera is a key component. Compared to our standard giardiniera it’s spicier, and contains oil. I long resisted the oil but am happy with the result. It melds the flavors and I think will also prolong the life of the mix in the refrigerator. Makes about ½ gallon.

Ingredients:
1 small cauliflower, trimmed and cut into bite-size florets
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths, about 1 c
2-3 ribs celery, cut into 1-inch lengths, about 1 c
Half a large green or red bell pepper, cut into 1 inch squares
1 head fennel, cut crosswise into 1-inch rings (optional)
2-4 jalapeño or serrano peppers (depending on how hot you want it), cut lengthwise with seeds removed then cut into squares*
2 cloves garlic, peeled
½ c Kosher salt
3 t dried oregano
1 t red pepper flakes
1 t crushed fennel seeds
½ t celery seeds
1 t crushed black peppercorns
2 c white vinegar
2 c olive oil
2 c water (plus more if needed)

Method: dissolve salt in a gallon or so water in a big bowl and add vegetables, making sure there is enough water to cover; mix thoroughly. Soak overnight. Drain and rinse the vegetables in the morning.

Chicago Giardiniera Siad View

We cut our veggies big so we can serve the giardiniera on its own, but if you are only going to use it in a sandwich cut into finer bits.

Prepare a half gallon jar for your product (I use an old kimchi jar). Add the dried spices and vinegar and allow them to macerate a bit. Add oil, then vegetables and mix with a wooden spoon. Pour in enough water to cover the vegetables. Allow to cure at least 24 hours before eating; will probably keep a month refrigerated.

Note: the spice selection comes from the website of a cooking school in Milan, La Cucina Italiana, which has several interesting Italian-American red sauce recipes. Their proportions are off but the spice balance is excellent.

*We actually used 3-4 leftover jarred cherry peppers instead of fresh peppers for our heat, and it worked out nicely.

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Food for thought: Lebanese food blogs

Squeezing chickpeas

Squeezing chickpeas to check for doneness, from the Forks and Foliage Lebanese food blog.

A search for the best way to cook dried chickpeas led us to the Forks and Foliage Lebanese food blog. It’s a fairly new blog with just a few recipes but its author obviously has big plans judging from the professional design and loooong posts (to make room for future in-article advertising, though there is none at this time). This is her best way to cook dried chickpeas: Stir 1 T kosher salt and 1 t baking soda into 4 cups of water and add up to 1 1/3 c dried chickpeas. Soak overnight. Drain and rinse and cook in ample water (about a 4:1 ratio, adding more if needed) over low heat till the chickpeas are just tender enough to break apart when you squeeze them between your fingers, about 2 hours. (Cook longer if you’re using for hummus.) A great deal of foam will rise to the surface when the chickpeas start cooking; skim it off.

Our garbanzos were perfect for a big batch of Chickpea Curry a la Querencia, but we had leftover chickpeas (as well as some intriguingly thick aquafaba, which we’ll deal with in a future post) and wondered what to do with them. Luckily, Gladys has a whole section of chickpea recipes; we tried Maghmour (Lebanese moussaka) which was also a big hit. I should mention we are big fans of Ottolenghi’s Plenty and Jerusalem cookbooks but his recipes tend to be complex with a long list of ingredients. It was exciting to get such great results with simple, straightforward dishes.

We then did a Google search for “maghmour recipes” and you should too, because it turns out this dish is a touchstone of Lebanese home cooks, each of whom has a slightly different version. Take a look at Hungry Paprikas, Vidar Bergum and Zataar & Zaytoun. Start with the maghmour, then stick around for the kibbeh and shawarma. Hours of food experimentation fun and delicious results await you, so check ‘em out!

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Recipe: Maghmour (Lebanese Moussaka)

Maghmour

Maghmour (Lebanese moussaka).

Maghmour (Lebanese Moussaka) is quite different from the Greek moussaka most of us are familiar with. Turns out there are many versions of moussaka through the middle east and the Greek version is a French/Greek hybrid introduced in the 20th century. This one came from the Forks & Foliage blog and it’s delicious for its rich tomato flavor and the textural pleasure of slightly crunchy chickpeas combined with tender eggplant and an intense sauce. Makes about 3 cups.

Ingredients:

For the eggplant:
2 medium eggplants, about 2 lbs
1 t Kosher salt
¼ c extra virgin olive oil

For the sauce:
¼ c extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
10 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
Kosher salt
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and cored and coarsely chopped
1 ½ c tomato sauce
1 c cooked chickpeas
Fresh cracked black pepper, a generous crank of the peppermill, maybe ½ t
Dried mint (optional)
Cinnamon (optional)
Cayenne or chili powder (optional)
Allspice (optional)
Chopped flat leaf parsley for garnish

Maghmour in Pot

You want the Maghmour to cook down to the point liquid has been fully absorbed but the dish is not dry.

Method: preheat oven to 425 degrees. Using a peeler, zebra stripe the eggplants into alternate peeled and unpeeled strips. Cut into 1 inch cubes. Toss with oil and salt and spread out on a sheet pan. Cook in oven 25 minutes or until tender.

While eggplant is roasting, make the sauce. Heat olive oil in an oven-proof pan and sauté onion and garlic over medium heat until translucent but not brown or crispy, 5-8 minutes. Mix in chickpeas, tomato, tomato sauce and spices including any optional spices.

Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees. Add baked eggplant to other ingredients in the pan and mix thoroughly. Heat the pan in the oven for 20 minutes until the sauce has reduced. Cool and serve cold or at room temperature with pita or crusty bread and other mezze, adding a garnish of chopped parsley if you like.

About the optional spices: there are many versions of this recipe online, most adding cinnamon and possibly allspice, some with a touch of heat, some with the additional element of dried mint. I kept mine simple for the first batch and I’m glad I did because I had some really excellent tomatoes. But this dish is a keeper and I will try variations in the future.

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Recipe: Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp

Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp comes from the excellent onolicious blog, which we’ve visited in the past. Kathy points out this is actually “local” fusion food rather than a traditional Hawaiian dish, but she uses that name because it’s what people are looking for and so do we. Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp is served from competing food trucks at a famous surfing outpost on Oahu and the competition is really about how much garlic you can use with the eater coming out a winner. Makes 4 servings, or 1 maybe.

Ingredients:
1 lb peel and eat shrimp from the supermarket (the ones that have the veins removed but not shells)
¼ c chopped garlic cloves, about 1 head of peeled garlic, or maybe more!
4 T butter
2 T flour: all-purpose, rice or mochiko
1 t paprika
1/4 t cayenne
1 t Kosher salt
1 T olive oil

Method: sauté chopped garlic in butter until it is soft and fragrant but NOT crispy. Pat the shrimp dry and dredge in a mixture of flour, salt, paprika and cayenne. Heat olive oil in a second skillet (or use the same skillet, reserving the shrimp and butter to a bowl) and cook shrimp until crisp and pink, 2 minutes or so per side. Combine with garlic butter, toss to combine, and serve over rice.

Hawaiian Shrimp Skillet

Shrimp a-sizzlle!

*Mochiko flour is the stuff used for making Japanese mochi dumplings. It’s ground from glutinous “sticky” rice. Use if you have it but regular rice flour (which we used) or all-purpose flour should be find since it’s simply a medium for breading.

“DO YOU REALLY EXPECT ME TO EAT THE SHELLS?” A chain serving this dish in mainland shopping malls has very low Yelp ratings because they don’t remove the shells before serving. Breaded and seasoned, the shells are delicious! Try it and feel free to de-shell (or remove the tail) while eating.

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Recipe: Jacques Pepin Vinaigrette

Jacques Pepin Vinaigrette

Jacques Pepin Vinaigrette, deconstructed.

Jacques Pepin Vinaigrette came from his very entertaining Facebook channel. Frustratingly, there’s no way to locate specific recipes but if you scroll through the feed you’ll find some gems, like this old episode of Jacques and Julia Child making hamburgers. (She called him “Jack” and yes, she was fluent in French.) But back to the recipe, he uses less vinegar than we would but the extra mustard more than offsets the extra oil for a very nice balance. Makes enough to dress a large family size salad.

Ingredients:
1 t garlic, very finely chopped
1 t good Dijon mustard
¼ t Kosher salt
Couple grinds black pepper
1 T red wine vinegar
4 T good olive oil

Summer Salad Jacques Pepin

Summer salad with red onion, fennel bulb, shiso, cherry tomato dressed with Jacques Pepin Vinaigrette.

Method: chop the garlic on a cutting board, then sprinkle salt on top and grind the flat of a chef’s knife against it to break garlic down further; use the edge of the knife to slide salt and garlic into a bowl. Add other ingredients and whisk thoroughly to combine. Build your salad on top of this, toss, and add garnishes as desired.

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Recipe: Lamb Curry (Rogan Josh)

Lamb Curry

Lamb Curry (Rogan Josh).

Lamb Curry (Rogan Josh) comes from the generally excellent Indian Instant Pot Cookbook and has a pleasing combination of warm spices. However, I very nearly burned it because the recipe does not have enough liquid to generate pressure. (Most IP users say you need a minimum of 1 cup of water; some say 1 ½ c if using a larger size Instant Pot.) Solution: cook it in a Dutch oven or slow cooker. Makes 4 servings and can be doubled for a crowd.

Ingredients:
1 c onion, chopped
2 t garlic, chopped
1 t ginger, grated or fine chopped
½ c Greek yoghurt*
2 T tomato paste
1 t paprika
1 t Garam Masala
1 t salt
½ t ground turmeric
½ t ground cinnamon
¼ t grated nutmeg
¼ t cayenne pepper
1 lb boneless lamb, cut into 1 inch cubes

Method: combine all ingredients except lamb and mix well. Add lamb and toss thoroughly to combine. Marinate in refrigerator for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. Cook over low heat in Dutch oven or slow cooker until lamb is very tender, at least 2 hours. Serve Lamb Curry (Rogan Josh) with rice.

*The Indian Instant Pot Cookbook recipe had 1/2 c yogurt and 1/2 c water.

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Recipe: Onion Jam

Onion Jam

Onion Jam.

I wanted to reproduce the Divina Onion Jam I bought at Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco and was mostly successful. This stuff is intense; use it sparingly on a sandwich or serve on a charcuterie plate with a nice runny brie. Makes 1 cup maybe.

Ingredients:
2 large onions, peeled and sliced thin to yield 4 c sliced onions
¼ c neutral oil
Kosher salt, a generous pinch
Black pepper, a few grinds
¼ c white sugar
1/3 c vinegar: red wine, balsamic, distilled or a combination
2 bay leaves (optional)
Sprig of rosemary (optional)
Sprig of thyme (optional

Method: heat oil in a cast iron skillet and sauté onions at medium heat, stirring frequently. They will wilt, then gradually turn light brown as they caramelize. Regulate heat so the onions do not crisp. When they have reduced by half, move onions to the edges of the skillet and add sugar in the middle. In a few minutes it will begin to bubble then turn light brown as it caramelizes. Stir as needed to keep sugar from sticking or burning.

Divina Onion Jam

This is the jam I was attempting to duplicate. It’s lighter in color because they used distilled (i.e. white) vinegar. It’s about $8.50 on Amazon which is not a bad price when you see how much your onions will cook down.

Toss to combine onions and sugar and add salt and pepper and optional herbs. Add vinegar and fold into the onion mix. It will reduce gradually. Turn off the heat and fold some of the onion over the herbs to absorb their flavor; leave the pan on the warm stove till the liquid has evaporated. Remove the herbs and serve the onion jam immediately or transfer to a storage container. It should keep for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator.

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My cole slaw obsession (and frustration)

Russell Cole Slaw

Russell’s Deli in Ballston Spa, NY feeds my cole slaw obsession with a serving that’s perfect in size and flavor balance.

Long term readers know I have a deep and abiding relationship with cole slaw, bordering on obsession. One of the most popular recipes on this site is the garlicky Vincent’s cole slaw that was served at a sadly departed Dallas seafood place. I tried for years (and am still trying) to duplicate the sour slaw served at the Highland Park Cafeteria. When you get me wound up, I will tell you that cole slaw (and cabbage in general) is a miraculous and almost perfect food.

But when I order cole slaw in a restaurant or fast food place, that obsession often leads to frustration.

Obviously, when coleslaw is available, I will request it. (If a sandwich or entree comes with a side of french fries, I will ask if I can substitute cole slaw.) And the experience leaves me disappointed just as often as I am delighted. The first problem is portion size. Many places unashamedly serve you cole slaw in a 2 oz condiment cup and advertise it as a salad included with the meal or charge extra for what should be considered a no-fee condiment. A proper serving should be the size of an 8 oz container, loosely filled, which amounts to about 1/3 pound.

Deli counters let you choose your portion size but can ding you on price. At today’s prices, cabbage and carrots (which typically appear in the commercial mixes) are both under a dollar a pound. How much should I pay you to chop, mix and dress it for me? I’ll spend up to $5 per pound without a second thought, but my town has one place that gets $7.49 and another $9.95 a pound. And we’re not talking NYC overhead here.

New Way Cole Slaw

This serving of coleslaw from New Way Lunch in Glens Falls, NY is lovely to look at but tastes like it came from a processed tub.

Plus, a surprising number of places do not know how to make coleslaw. It’s either underseasoned (a good fast food cole slaw needs the right amount of salt and a pinch of sugar) or dipped out of a processed tub. I happen to like those supermarket tubs and buy them occasionally, but don’t want to pay an up charge for you to dip it for me.

I like to keep an eye out for foodservice ingredients when I am standing in the ordering queue, and I believe I have seen a Hans Kissle cole slaw dressing at more than one establishment. It is not currently on their website, so maybe I am mistaken or perhaps you need a secret code to order. But these places dish up the proper foodservice cole slaw I am looking for.

There is also a Hans Kissle cole slaw sold in prepackaged tubs, just like my local supermarket’s house brands, but there are no outlets locally where I can buy it. (Once upon a time I found a special on mini-cups and liked them, but the store that had them doesn’t today.) Hans Kissle’s headquarters are in Haverhill, MA somewhere north of Boston so maybe it’s time for a road trip.

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Trader Joe’s Premium Peeled Garlic

Trader Joe Peeled Garlic

Trader Joe’s Premium Peeled Garlic. Fresh package on the left, 3-month old package on the right.

I use a lot of garlic when I cook. I hate peeling garlic. Ergo, I use already-peeled garlic cloves. I have tried several brands from Asian markets and also the Spice World brand, which is sold at my local big box store. The price is great, currently $4 for a pound of the Spice World. But the cloves start to deteriorate as soon as the package is opened and by the time I’m halfway through most of the cloves are moldy. Of course I’m too cheap to just throw them away at that point, but trying to find usable cloves among moldy ones is not a lot of fun.

Trader Joe Peeled Garlic

A closer look at a sealed packet of Trader Joe’s garlic. No mold!

Recently I was traveling and picked up a package of Trader Joe’s Premium Peeled Garlic. I’m a fan! It’s $2.49 for only 4 ounces which does not sound like the kind of thing a cheapskate would go for, but I brought the remainder home with me and am still using it three months later. The package contains several smaller packets of a few garlic cloves each, sealed in what is not quite a vacuum pack but definitely has had some air removed and maybe neutral gas pumped in? (No, they’d have to say that on the label.) That’s why the garlic can stay fresh, though the cloves are viable for a while if you have leftovers after the little packet is opened.

Trader Joe’s Premium Peeled Garlic is “grown in California” which is a bonus if you’re concerned about buying fresh food from an overseas source that has reached your produce shelf at the end of a long journey. Look for it among the refrigerated items in the produce section.

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Food for Thought: What’s Annie Cooking

Annie Tuna Salad

Mom’s tuna salad from What’s Annie Cooking.

What’s Annie Cooking is a hobbyist food blog written by Annie Slocum, a home cook in Denver who says she was heavily influenced by time living in San Francisco. She loves to read and collect cookbooks, and the typical recipe is one in which she borrows from a cookbook (with credit) and adds her own variations.

Annie Curry Shortbread

Curried Shortbreads from What’s Annie Cooking.

The recipes are really appealing and match the flavor sensibility of Burnt My Fingers readers (at least this one) quite nicely. We discovered the blog searching for the recipe for Annie Somerville’s corn stock in Fields of Greens (our own copy is in a box somewhere after a move) and found her recipe for the stock on its own, then converted to Green Corn Soup.  Next up was her mother’s tuna salad which includes frozen peas, stuffed olives, hard boiled eggs and chopped nuts… a winner. We are also tempted by Curry Shortbreads which are just what it sounds like… a savory treat like classic shortbread but with curry flavors.

Annie is not very prolific: she posted one recipe in July 2023 and one in June after a hiatus since March 2023. But the blog has been going on a long time, back to 2011, so there’s plenty to choose from. Maybe if we try some of these recipes, and comment on them, she will post more often. Check it out!

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