Category Archives: Sides

Man and woman do not live by main courses alone. Sides are the chorus that makes the meal come together in all its symphonic elegance. Whatever.

Recipe: Happy Bellyfish Kimchi

We made this kimchi through a class with Happy Bellyfish, an online cooking school based in Germany that specializes in fermentations. (More about them later when we review Zoom cooking classes as a trend/necessity.) It’s a good solid basic rendition … Continue reading

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Food for thought: The Department of Salad

Good news: whereas our usual Food for Thought items require clicking a dread affiliate link to purchase, today’s is absolutely free. Emily Nunn is a wonderful food writer who says of herself, “I live in a barn in rural NC … Continue reading

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Recipe: Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse

Eric Gestel Chicken Liver Mousse is an example of the treats that await you in Rise, the wonderful compendium of Black cooking curated by Marcus Samuelsson. Gestel, who is Executive Chef at Le Bernardin in NYC, likes to serve this … Continue reading

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Recipe: Delicata Squash Sautéed in Buttermilk

Delicata Squash Sautéed in Buttermilk came about as a happy accident. I wanted a side dish to go with Ottolenghi’s mackerel with olives and raisins, and found a whole Delicata in the fridge. This is a no-fail squash, as pretty … Continue reading

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Recipe: Green Beans Almondine

Green Beans Almondine (aka Amandine) is a dish my mother would make when she was feeling adventurous, and she was good at it. The recipe has a secret, which is easy to master: heat the butter just to the point … Continue reading

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Recipe: Soba Noodle Salad with Tahini Dressing

Cold soba noodle salad is a nice change of pace from macaroni salad, especially when served with other Asian dishes. Feel free to modify it with other mix-ins such as red onion replacing scallions, or some finely chopped celery. Serves … Continue reading

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Recipe: Improved Fried Okra

For such a versatile vegetable, fried okra generates a lot of controversy. Soak in buttermilk for tenderness, or coat with beaten egg so batter will stick? Dredge in flour for a uniform crust, or cornmeal for a pleasing crunch? How … Continue reading

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Recipe: Southern-Style Collard Greens

If you ordered collard greens (or mustard greens or turnip greens) at the now-defunct Highland Park Cafeteria in Dallas, the server would ladle them into a little bowl and add several spoonfuls of the pan liquid. This is the beloved … Continue reading

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Recipe: Best Macaroni Salad

Most macaroni salad is terrible, because it’s just cold pasta mixed with a glop of mayo. But when you start to deepen the flavor profile, the best macaroni salad can hold its own next to potato salad on a picnic … Continue reading

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Recipe: Sichuan Cucumber Salad

If you have a well-stocked Sichuan pantry you already have the two key ingredients for Sichuan Cucumber Salad: sichuan peppercorns and mild dried red chilis. Even though it earns the sobriquet “Mala” which means “hot and numbing” in Mandarin, this … Continue reading

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