My cole slaw obsession (and frustration)

Russell’s Deli in Ballston Spa, NY feeds my cole slaw obsession with a serving that’s perfect in size and flavor balance.

Long term readers know I have a deep and abiding relationship with cole slaw, bordering on obsession. One of the most popular recipes on this site is the garlicky Vincent’s cole slaw that was served at a sadly departed Dallas seafood place. I tried for years (and am still trying) to duplicate the sour slaw served at the Highland Park Cafeteria. When you get me wound up, I will tell you that cole slaw (and cabbage in general) is a miraculous and almost perfect food.

But when I order cole slaw in a restaurant or fast food place, that obsession often leads to frustration.

Obviously, when coleslaw is available, I will request it. (If a sandwich or entree comes with a side of french fries, I will ask if I can substitute cole slaw.) And the experience leaves me disappointed just as often as I am delighted. The first problem is portion size. Many places unashamedly serve you cole slaw in a 2 oz condiment cup and advertise it as a salad included with the meal or charge extra for what should be considered a no-fee condiment. A proper serving should be the size of an 8 oz container, loosely filled, which amounts to about 1/3 pound.

Deli counters let you choose your portion size but can ding you on price. At today’s prices, cabbage and carrots (which typically appear in the commercial mixes) are both under a dollar a pound. How much should I pay you to chop, mix and dress it for me? I’ll spend up to $5 per pound without a second thought, but my town has one place that gets $7.49 and another $9.95 a pound. And we’re not talking NYC overhead here.

This serving of coleslaw from New Way Lunch in Glens Falls, NY is lovely to look at but tastes like it came from a processed tub.

Plus, a surprising number of places do not know how to make coleslaw. It’s either underseasoned (a good fast food cole slaw needs the right amount of salt and a pinch of sugar) or dipped out of a processed tub. I happen to like those supermarket tubs and buy them occasionally, but don’t want to pay an up charge for you to dip it for me.

I like to keep an eye out for foodservice ingredients when I am standing in the ordering queue, and I believe I have seen a Hans Kissle cole slaw dressing at more than one establishment. It is not currently on their website, so maybe I am mistaken or perhaps you need a secret code to order. But these places dish up the proper foodservice cole slaw I am looking for.

There is also a Hans Kissle cole slaw sold in prepackaged tubs, just like my local supermarket’s house brands, but there are no outlets locally where I can buy it. (Once upon a time I found a special on mini-cups and liked them, but the store that had them doesn’t today.) Hans Kissle’s headquarters are in Haverhill, MA somewhere north of Boston so maybe it’s time for a road trip.