Recipe: Batterless Corn Fritters

Batterless Corn Fritters.Batterless corn fritters are a specialty of Lolinda, an Argentine Steakhouse in San Francisco. The niblets stick together as if by magic and the fritters are a perfect accompaniment to their ceviche. After many attempts we got pretty close, with help from this SpruceEats prep.  Makes 8 batterless corn fritters.

Ingredients:
2 large eggs, beaten
2 c corn niblets, from fresh or frozen corn
1 t Kosher salt
2 t sugar
2 T all purpose flour
Neutral oil for frying

Method: beat eggs in a mixing bowl and stir in corn niblets. Sprinkle over flour, salt and sugar and stir to combine. The bowl should have little to no residual liquid; if there is a puddle in the bottom add a bit more flour.

Lorinda Corn Fritter

At Lolinda the fritter is served with ceviche; use the fritter to sop up the lime juice for the fish. Delicious!

Pour an inch of oil into a small skillet (like an 8 inch omelet pan) and heat to 350 degrees. Use a tablespoon or ice cream scoop to ladle in corn mixture and make 4 fritters: 2 heaping T by tablespoon or 1 scoop per fritter. Push down the corn into the oil and corral any wayward niblets back into the fritter using the spoon; it will be loose initially but will coalesce into a mass as the egg cooks. Cook until the edges are golden brown then flip carefully with a slotted spatula. You want both sides golden brown, about 4 minutes per side.

Drain on a rack or paper towels. Wait for the oil to heat back up then cook the remaining 4 fritters. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200 degree oven for a short time before serving.

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Can you pickle magnolia petals?

Pickled Magnolia Petals

Pickled Magnolia Petals.

Can you pickle magnolia blossoms or petals? According to the Smithsonian, magnolia trees date back as far as 95 million years, a time when there were no bees. They were instead pollinated by beetles and the magnolia developed thick petals to support the critters. It’s those thick petals that make magnolia blossoms an interesting candidate for pickling.

Magnolia Blossoms Ground

By May 4, most of our magnolia petals were on the ground.

We have a “precocious” magnolia tree in our parkway, meaning it blooms before leaves appear in the spring. This year the bloom started maybe April 30 and is already almost over on May 4. Before we ran out of time, we wanted to see if magnolia blossoms could be pickled. We were inspired when the petals were listed among edible local plants on the Foraged New York Foray sponsored by Collar City Mushrooms.

It’s easy to harvest pristine magnolia blossoms because they literally fall off the tree; just hold a large basket below a clump of flowers and shake the branch. You’ll be rewarded with a shower of pink petals that will quickly produce a gallon or more by volume. As a precautionary measure (certainly not necessary since they never touched the ground and would be subject to a hot pickling brine) we soaked them briefly and dried them in a salad spinner. That’s when we discovered that magnolia blossoms bruise very easily, producing a dark crack across the petal.

Various online foragers and vegan experimenters suggest that pickled magnolia leaves have a taste of ginger, and in fact can be substituted for gari as a garnish for sushi. This inspired us to prepare a pickling liquid which included a teaspoon of minced fresh ginger along with a garlic clove and a star anise, plus a teaspoon of Kosher salt and a tablespoon of sugar, in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water with a total volume of 2 cups.

It seemed like a good idea to stack the magnolia petals to keep them intact, so we made several piles and carefully inserted them into a wide mouth quart canning jar. At some point, we lost patience and dumped in the rest of the petals. What had been a gallon in the basket just about filled the quart jar with closely packed petals. We heated the pickling brine to just below boiling, poured over the petals, and waited.

Pickled Magnolia jar

Here’s our pickled magnolia blossoms after a night in the brine. Note the considerable bruising and also how the liquid has been tinted pink.

The next morning we tried our newly pickled magnolia petals. The first thing we noticed was that the petals come out of the jar in sort of a gummy mass…. Not particularly appetizing. They tasted pleasant but the flavor was from the brine; the petals themselves didn’t have much flavor and certainly not a hint of ginger. Thinking of the gari analogy, we sliced one of the blobs into slivers. At least half the petals had turned a dark color so we discarded those leaving the pickles you see above. Not bad at all.

Next year we might try this again; we’ll slice the petals before pickling and hopefully will have less bruising and discoloring. We might also consider using the fresh, unpickled magnolia blossoms as a garnish.

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Recipe: “Parasite” Noodles with Leftover Prime Rib

Parasite Noodles

A potful of Parasite Noodles.

In the Korean movie “Parasite”, the parasitic family makes a rich noodle dish by combining two varieties of instant noodles with rare roast beef. We had some leftover prime rib* which was perfect. The finished dish is savory, filling and definitely doesn’t taste like something you whipped up from a convenience packet. We roughly followed Maagchi’s recipe. Serves 2 as a main dish or 4 as a side.

Ingredients:
Chapagetti (aka jiapagetti) noodles: one package with its seasoning packets
Neoguri: one package with its seasoning packets
1 T butter
8 oz or so rare leftover prime rib, cut into bite size (½ inch) cubes
Scallions for garnish (optional

Method: sauté prime rib cubes in butter until fat is rendered and edges are crispy and brown. Reserve. Prepare the noodles by opening the packages and arranging seasoning packets for use. There are three packets in the Chapagetti: vegetable, soup base and oil. There are two packets in the Neoguri: “flakes” and spicy soup base. You’ll be using everything except the oil.

Noodle Packets

Neoguri and Chapagetti noodles with their seasoning packets.

Bring 4 c water to a boil and add noodles. Cook over medium heat until noodles are soft, stirring with chopsticks. This should take no more than 2-3 minutes. Drain most of the water leaving perhaps 1 c which will be absorbed by the noodles as they continue to set up. Stir in the two veggie flake packets, all the Chapagetti soup base and half the Neoguri soup base for a mild dish, or the full packet if you like it spicy.

Add the beef and stir into the noodles to combine. Rest a minute or two so the flavors can meld, then serve. We like a few chopped scallions on top.

*We always buy an oversized rib roast when it’s on sale, so we have ample leftovers for sandwiches and such. The chopped cubes in this recipe are the final stop as the meat is separated from the rib bones that go into stock.

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Recipe: Lemon Impossible Mini-Tarts

Lemon Impossible Mini-Tarts

Lemon Impossible Mini-Tarts in real life.

Mouth-watering pictures of Lemon Impossible Mini-Tarts are all over the internet, but they are generally misleading because the recipe bakes its own crust yet they are shown in premade pastry shells. The actual recipe makes something between a tart and a cookie which is quite a pleasant snack. Makes 12 mini-tarts, or 6 less-mini-tarts if you double up the amount in each muffin mold for a more substantial treat.

Ingredients
1 c milk
½ c white sugar
½ c all purpose flour
2 large eggs
¼ c unsalted butter (melted)
1 T lemon zest (from 1 lemon), finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon (about 2 T)
1 t vanilla extract
A pinch of salt

Method: beat eggs in a mixing bowl then whisk in all ingredients, adding the melted butter next to last so it won’t curdle the eggs followed by the lemon zest. Transfer to a 12-cup well buttered muffin r 20-25 minutes until Impossible Lemon Mini-Tarts are set and starting to brown. Let cool completely in pan before removing.

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Bean hole beans.

Bean Hole Beans

Bean Hole Beans?

Beans are on my mind today because I saw an ad on Facebook from Bush’s Beans: “Your Fam on a Can”. Submit a custom label with two lines and a maximum of 10 letters each; if it meets other, unspecified criteria, they will send you a (empty) keepsake bean can with that label. My requested family brand “Maxwell’s Propulsion” evidently did not pass muster but the experience was still valuable because, while reading comments on the Facebook ad, I noticed a lot of praise from folks who had visited the Bush’s museum and visitor center in Dandridge, TN. There you can eat in their café and get a sampler of baked beans with your meal, a hot dog topped with chili beans and a slice of pecan pie made with beans for dessert. Culinary tourism opportunity!

I also learned that Bush’s remains a private, family-owned company which warmed my heart. I have always picked up a few cans of Bush’s when they are on sale, though I intend to doctor them so could probably do just as well with a generic bean. (For large quantities I’d go for the dirt-cheap Grandma Brown’s Baked Beans, but they went out of business during the pandemic.) On my most recent shopping trip I discovered Bush’s Country Style, a bean that is “thicker, sweeter, richer with bacon & extra brown sugar”. The price was the same as their other baked beans, so who wouldn’t want this one? Only problem is it limits the opportunity for tinkering; the Country Style bean sauce was indeed thick and rich and I limited myself to a scoop of dehydrated onions and a splash each of Worcestershire and cider vinegar and was good to go.

BakedBeans

Easy Baked Beans.

The label on my Country Style advises  “the contrasting flavors of sweet baked beans and any of your savory favorites bring out the best in each other”. Simple enough: baked beans are supposed to be sweet, unlike spicy chili beans or Cuban black beans with their payload of onion, garlic and olive oil, or Snow’s smoky pinto beans.

My mother was not an adventurous cook but she prepared a fine baked bean dish which involved fiddling with a can of generic baked beans (I expect she used Campbells) and baking with strips of bacon and rounds of sliced onion on top until the liquid evaporated. It is an easy and reliable recipe which we’ve featured here.

Whenever those beans were served, my father would mutter in a thoughtful way, “bean hole beans”. I was not as curious then as now about food trivia so never asked him why he said that. But it turns out bean hole beans are kind of a shaggy dog story which has been captured on AllRecipes as well as this NYTimes article, both of which describe a very complex process for digging a hole in the ground for your dutch oven full of beans before acknowledging you can make the same recipe in a crockpot. The Times says the original recipe came from the Abenaki people, which brings us full circle because they were the original inhabitants of my frost-kissed region of upstate New York. My father never made it upstate as far as I know, but he did live in Boston in his youth and frequented the old-school (and sadly departed) Durgin Park Restaurant where he might have encountered a dish named “bean hole beans”. Or maybe he just liked the sound of the words.

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Recipe: Original Joy of Cooking Buttermilk Pancakes

Joy Buttermilk Pancakes with Bacon

Joy of Cooking Buttermilk Pancakes with bacon.

I think this is the way buttermilk pancakes were prepared in the original Joy of Cooking. (The current recipe is fine too.) Anyway, the result can’t be beat, especially if you have some good quality buttermilk. Makes 10-12 four-inch pancakes.

Ingredients:
1 ½ c all purpose flour
3 T white sugar
1 t baking soda
½ t baking powder
1 t salt
1 ½ c (or more) buttermilk, preferably full fat like our local favorite from Argyle Cheese Farmer
2 eggs, separated into whites and yolks
1 t vanilla extract
3 T melted butter
Neutral oil, for skillet

Pancakes with Egg

We like to add a sunny-side up egg and season it with salt, pepper and tabasco before pouring on the syrup.

Method: combine dry ingredients in one bowl and the buttermilk, egg yolks, vanilla extract and melted butter in a separate bowl (can be smaller). Stir in melted butter last so it won’t cook egg yolks. Pour the wet mixture into a well in the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly.

Beat the egg whites into stiff peaks and fold into batter; mix thoroughly but gently so as to keep the pancakes light and airy. Heat a nonstick skillet to 350 degrees (the point at which a drop of water sizzles) and wipe on just a bit of oil. Use a quarter cup measure to pour batter into skillet; keep to the edges as the batter will expand. A 12-inch skillet will hold about 4 pancakes which will probably overlap a bit at the inner edges. Note: depending on the thickness of your buttermilk you might want to add a bit more buttermilk, milk or water so the pancakes will expand in the skillet and cook evenly.

Cook the pancakes until the tops turn from glossy to matte and flip carefully to cook the other side. Cook for another minute then transfer pancakes to serving plate, or keep warm in a 200 degree oven if you like. Serve Joy Buttermilk Pancakes with maple syrup.

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Recipe: Lamb Curry with Lentils

Lamb Curry with Lentils

Lamb Curry with Lentils

Lamb Curry with Lentils sustained many a college student in off-campus meals, thanks to Myra Waldo’s Complete Book of Oriental Cooking. It’s easy, cheap, nutritious and filling… what more could you ask? Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 lb lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 c onion
2 cloves garlic
1 T curry powder
¾ t Kosher salt
¼ c whole milk yogurt
1 c lentils
3 T ghee or butter
2 c water
1 ½ c water

Method: combine onion, garlic, curry powder and salt in a mini-chop and quickly chop. Add to the lamb in a bowl and stir in yogurt. Blend well*. Marinate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, bring the lentils to a boil with plenty of water and drain.

Melt the butter or ghee in a saucepan and stir in undrained meat. Cover and cook over low heat 15 minutes, stirring frequently, then add reserved lentils. Bring 1 ½ c water to a boil and pour over lamb and lentils. Cover and cook over low heat 30 minutes or until lamb and lentils are tender. Serve over rice with chutney or Indian pickles. (Or eat without rice  for a filling low-carb meal.)

*The original recipe called for pounding the onion, garlic and spices with a mortar and pestle then gradually adding yogurt. Not a bad idea.

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Recipe: Indian Cabbage with Turmeric and Black Mustard Seeds

Indian Cabbage

Indian Cabbage with Turmeric and Black Mustard Seeds.

Indian Cabbage with Turmeric and Black Mustard Seeds is from the delightful (and hard to find) Yogi Cook Book by Yogi Vithaldas with Susan Roberts. They advise using it as a substitute for cole slaw served with Indian dishes. Makes 4-6 servings.

Ingredients:
medium head green cabbage (or half a large head)
3 T neutral oil
1t ground turmeric
1 t black mustard seeds
1/2 t Kosher salt

Yogi Cook Book

Our taped-together copy of the Yogi Cook Book.

Method: core the cabbage and chop into 1 inch squares. Heat the oil and add the mustard seed and turmeric; heat until the mustard seeds begin to pop. Add salt and cabbage and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, till cabbage is somewhat wilted but still crunchy. Serve as a side dish with Indian foods; this would also go nicely with a smoked or grilled protein like Jamaican jerk chicken.

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Recipe: Lemony Asparagus with Orzo

Lemony Asparagus Orzo

Lemony Asparagus with Orzo.

Lemony Asparagus with Orzo is a pleasant way to enjoy early season asparagus and the lemon makes it feel like summer is already here. We were lucky enough to have some sweet Meyer lemons brought back from CA plus some Frog Hollow Meyer Lemon Olive Oil, but regular lemons and oil would work fine. This is a fine dish to bring to a potluck because it’s good hot, cold or at room temperature. Simplified from this NYTCooking recipe. Makes 6-8 side dish or 4 main dish servings.

Ingredients:
1 c orzo
1 lb tender young asparagus
1 T or more lemon zest
3 T lemon juice
3 T good olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
2 minced garlic cloves, diced
½ c panko or bread crumbs
¼ c parmesan, grated
Chopped parsley for garnish, optional

Method: break off woody ends from asparagus stalks and cut on the bias into bite-size pieces (3/4 inch long so so). Cook the orzo in a generous amount of boiling water until 2 minutes short of package recommendations for al dente. Add asparagus, return to the boil and cook those last two minutes. Drain.

Add 1 T oil to a saucepan (you can wipe out the orzo pot and re-use it) and sauté garlic until fragrant. Lower heat and add panko/bread crumbs. Toast until lightly browned, stirring constantly.

Transfer orzo mixture to a serving bowl with lemon zest, lemon juice and 2 T olive oil and toss to mix. Taste for seasoning; we think it needs just a pinch each of salt and pepper. Fold in toasted bread crumbs and parmesan. Garnish with some chopped green herbs if you like. Serve hot, cold or at room temperature.

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Recipe: Creamy Caesar Dressing

Creamy Caesar Dressing

Creamy Caesar Dressing atop some spring greens.

A classic Caesar is fine, but sometimes you want a creamy Caesar dressing. Especially if you have a bagful of “Spring Greens” vs rugged romaine. This recipe works because it contains all the essentials including eggs in a food safe payload (mayo) for those who are squeamish about eating them raw. Makes about 1 ½ c dressing, enough for 3 big salads.

Ingredients:

2-3 garlic cloves, peeled
2 anchovy filets in oil or 1 t anchovy paste
2 T lemon juice
1 t Worcestershire sauce
1 t Dijon mustard
½ c mayonnaise
½ c grated Parmesan
Generous pinch Kosher salt
Generous pinch ground black pepper
Generous pinch MSG (optional)*

Method: add all ingredients to a mini-chop and pulverize into a smooth creamy emulsion. Spoon over greens and mix thoroughly before serving. Don’t be overly generous with the dressing; a little goes a long way. Unused dressing will keep a couple weeks in a refrigerated container.

*You wouldn’t expect to see a table side waiter sprinkling on MSG in a fancy Tiajuana restaurant, but it seemed to fit here. We were inspired by its use (but not always!) in Hidden Valley Ranch Dressing and our copycat Mystery Creek Ranch Dressing.

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