Taste Test: Oven-Roasted Buffalo Wings

Posted on February 2, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Best Oven-Roasted Buffalo Wings

The wining recipe for oven-roasted Buffalo wings. Unfortunately, the sticky identifying the prep got covered up…

Planning a wingfest for Super Bowl Sunday and wondering what’s the best way to prepare Oven-Roasted Buffalo Wings? We’ve got your playbook right here. We tested several different preps and came up with a somewhat definitive winner that’s also easy to make and as good as anything you’re going to get in a bar.

First things first. Are oven-roasted Buffalo wings really going to be as good as those fried in oil? Yes, because the wings contain so much fat they essentially fry themselves. (I’ve never worked in a wing restaurant, but I suspect they might have to have a dedicated fryer because of all the chicken fat that leaches into the oil.) And second, don’t worry about elaborate preps for your hot sauce. The very simple recipe on the Frank’s Red Hot website—a ratio of ½ c Frank’s sauce to 1/3 c melted butter—is exactly what you’re looking for.

Raw Buffalo Wings

Wings ready to go into the oven. Left to right, top to bottom: pre sauced plan wings; just plain wings; Hooters style with flour and sauce; brined; steamed

We started with cheap supermarket wings, clipped the tips for stock and cut the wings into drumettes and flats. These were then divided into the following preps:

  • Straight out of the package, salt and pepper seasoning, dipped in sauce before roasting.
  • Straight out of the package and onto the sheet pan, with no seasoning other than salt and pepper.
  • Hooters style in which the wings were rolled in flour seasoned with garlic powder, salt and pepper and cayenne, then dipped in sauce before roasting.
  • Brined for 24 hours in the Chez Panisse formula of 2 T Kosher salt/1 T sugar/1 pint water, towel-dried, and cooked without pre-saucing.
  • Steamed for 10 minutes according to the Alton Brown method, towel-dried, and cooked without pre-saucing.

Roasting was done on silicone sheets (you could also use parchment paper) in half-sheet pans at 400 degrees. 20 minutes on one side, flipped and cooked for 30 minutes on the other side for a crispy result. As mentioned above, these guys throw off a lot of fat; by the end your pan will be swimming in it. It would be worth experimenting with cooking on a wire rack or draining off the fat for the last 10 minutes of cooking to get a crispier result.

At the end, the wings were uniformly dipped in the Frank’s/melted butter sauce (we had a little left over from the pre-cook dipping, and we boiled it thoroughly along with fresh sauce to remove any contamination) and served piping hot. Of course, generous quantities of carrot and celery sticks were made available along with a tub of our Buttermilk Blue Cheese Dressing for dipping.

The winner? Well, you’ll have to come back tomorrow to see what that is. But don’t worry, it’s so easy you’ll have plenty of time to get ready for the big game.

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Tips for enjoying Saratoga Chowderfest 2017

Posted on January 31, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Chowder Crowds

Long lines at a previous Saratoga Chowderfest in mild weather (2014)

Saratoga Chowderfest 2017 is this Saturday, February 4, from 11 to 4, and with mild weather the downtown should be packed. Here are a few strategies for making the most of this event, in which you can sample endless 3-oz chowder servings for $1 each and vote on your favorites:

  1. Don’t even think of driving downtown, if you don’t already live in Saratoga. There will be no parking (and a guaranteed parking ticket if you follow the crowd and ignore the posted signs) and Route 9 will be seriously backed up. Instead, park near Dick’s Sporting Goods at Wilton Mall (Exit 15) or the Saratoga Casino (take Exit 13 north, then right on Crescent) and take the shuttle in to town.

  2. Start your tasting at the City Center. Here you can pick up a ballot (ballots are also available, but intermittently, at individual serving stands) and sample several establishments gathered in one place.

  3. Study the writeup at Discover Saratoga (excellent interactive map and listing of participants but, confusingly, some info from last year’s event is still posted so be sure you are looking at 2017 details not 2016) and make a game plan. My strategy is to pick a few destination spots, then sample opportunistically at other places that catch my eye nearby. Be prepared to adjust your plan if you encounter very long lines (though sometimes these move rapidly, as at Druthers) or very short lines (this place doesn’t seem very popular, but it’s only a dollar so what do you have to lose?)

Druthers Chowder

A previous year’s Druthers Chowder featuring a crab claw

Here are a few chowders I have my eye on:

  • Sperry’s: these guys will have just opened after the fire and want to attract new business, so expect something special
  • Diamond Grill: another new guy in the Embassy Suites at Congress Plaza; rumor has it they will have 4 chowders and a live band
  • Parting Glass: usually something outrageous with an Irish theme (one year there were croutons soaked in Irish whiskey)
  • Druthers: another spot that generally puts on the dog (one year there was a big hunk of crab claw in every serving)
  • Dango’s: Buffalo chicken chowder with a wing as the “spoon”
  • Seven Horse Pub: just damn good chowder
  • Peabody’s: “Smoked crab with sweet corn topped with Irish whiskey crackers” sounds mighty good to me though I’ve had a disappointing experience with this restaurant
  • Parkside Eatery: these guys make great soup, which I like to sample while waiting for a sandwich, so you can expect their chowder to be solid
  • Longfellows: “Pork belly sea scallop chowder” sounds wonderful though it’s not downtown but at their restaurant off Exit 14; maybe worth getting off here then driving back roads to Wilton Mall to park (check the map)
  1. Mark your ballot and turn it in when you’re done at the City Center or Visitor’s Center—that’s part of the fun. Plus you can buy a garish long-sleeve t-shirt to remember the day for a more than reasonable $10.

According to the Saratogian, 40,000 people visited Chowderfest last year and 130,000 samples were served. That’s less than three samples per person, which is a crime. You and I can certainly do better. I’ve averaged 5 tastes on a casual year (when I also went home and had lunch) and at times far more. Let’s chowder down!

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Recipe: Shrimp Curry with Coconut Cashew Gravy

Posted on January 26, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers

 

Curry Shrimp with Cashew Coconut Gravy

Shrimp Curry with snap peas

This dish is so unctuous and irresistible, hard to believe it’s also good for you. Adapted from a similar recipe in Dr. David Ludwig’s Always Hungry? book. Serves four as a stew with or without rice.

Ingredients:
For the gravy:
3/4 c raw cashews, coarsely chopped
1 1/4 c canned coconut milk (shake the can to mix before pouring)
Ginger, 1-inch piece (about 2 T), peeled and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, coarsely chopped
1 t salt
Water as needed

For the stir fry:
1 T peanut or soy or vegetable oil
1/2 can Musaman curry, canned red or green Thai curry or 3 T curry powder
1 lb raw shrimp, peeled (or more if you like)
1/2 t salt
1 c carrots (about 2 medium) or more, peeled and cut julienne
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut julienne (or a mixture of red pepper and hot pepper such as jalapeño)
2 c or more Napa or green cabbage (about 1/2 small cabbage), shredded
1/2 lb pound or more snap peas, snow peas or Chinese long beans
cilantro and lime, for garnish

Masaman Curry

This is the brand of Masaman Curry I use. Their red and green curry sauces are also good. Available in Asian markets.

Method: make the gravy. Combine all ingredients in a mini-food processor and purée. If sauce is too thick to pour, add a little water. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet to the smoking point. Add curry and fry quickly, then add strimp and toss till they turn pink, 3 or 4 minutes. Add all vegetables except peas/long beans and cook, tossing, another 3-4 minutes. Add gravy and mix thoroughly. Heat until gravy is bubbling. Add peas/beans, cover and turn off the heat. Serve within a few minutes, while very hot. Garnish with cilantro, or Thai crack sauce if you have some on hand.

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Recipe: Cheeseburger Beans

Posted on January 25, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Cheeseburger Beans

Cheeseburger Beans

When you want a cheeseburger but all you have is beans, make Cheeseburger Beans. Goes well with a hot dog or grilled chicken. Serves two as a main dish, or four as a side.

Ingredients:
Approx. 15 ounce can pinto beans, or equivalent amount of cooked dried beans
1/4 cup or more finely chopped onions
1/4 cup or more finely chopped dill pickle (about 1 medium pickle)
1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese
2 T yellow mustard (for Texas Cheeseburger Beans) OR 1 T yellow mustard and 1 T ketchup
Granulated garlic, to taste (optional)
1 t finely chopped jalapeño, optional
Salt and pepper, to taste

Method: drain beans and transfer to a microwave/oven-safe serving dish. Mix in all ingredients except cheese and adjust the seasoning. Cover and cook on high in microwave (about 3 minutes) OR 20 minutes in a 350 degree oven, until the beans are thoroughly heated and the cheese is bubbly. Serve hot.

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Food for Thought: The Food Lab

Posted on January 19, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers

Feeling a little J. Kenji Lopez-Alt-deprived with Serious Eats’ new eye candy format? The Food Lab is your medicine. It collects and organizes his best posts through the years, in a volume heavy enough to pound a cutlet.

There are several ways you can use this book. First, you can burrow into tidbits of food science. Lopez-Alt is less methodical than Christopher Kimball, less pedantic than Harold McGee, with a result that’s eminently readable. (Foolproof Soft-Boiled Eggs on page 101 is as good a place to start as any.) Second, to suss out the best way to prepare any particular foodstuff. (You can do no better than the sautéed spinach/pan-roasted mushroom spread on ages 440-441, though I will point out that you can retain moisture inside your mushroom caps by frying the bottoms first, then turning over to cook the tops.)

Third, it’s a recipe book, which is clearly what the publisher intended in order to reach the widest possible audience. The number of recipes is not large relative to the size of the book, but what’s here is reliably good and has a high probability of success thanks to the accompanying advice on technique. Pasta with Sausage and Red-Sauce Braised Broccoli Rabe (page 696) looks promising… maybe I’ll make this one for dinner tonight. Check it out.

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Food for Thought: Thrillist

Posted on January 17, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers

I visit Serious Eats less often these days, probably because the tags for articles on the home page have been replaced with big eye-candy food porn graphics. (The content’s still there, but you have to work to find it.) As a replacement, I’ve developed a guiltily pleasurable relationship with the food and drink section of Thrillist.

Thrillist is one of those link-bait sites that happens to have some good content along with the ads. I especially like the city guides, though they are of varying quality because they are written by stringers and so only as good as the person reporting. But it’s a fun read and won’t cost you anything. Sample content (which will change by the time you get there, probably): The 33 best sandwich shops in America, ranked. Nine Taco Bell hacks you’ll be pissed you didn’t know. And (I would have liked to be the writer on this one) Signs you’re in a bullshit steakhouse.

There’s also a daily email newsletter worth subscribing to. Just watch out for fake news. Check it out.

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Enough with the fruitcake jokes…

Posted on January 13, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Corsicana Fruitcake

Corsicana fruitcake with tin

Bon vivant Calvin Trillin wrote that there is actually only one fruitcake in the world, and it is continually re-gifted each holiday season. That fruitcake joke, or a variation, has had just as much recycling to the point that giving a fruitcake for Christmas, or offering a slice to your guests, is to invite ridicule.

Enough already. While I have no doubt there are inferior fruitcakes, the standard of the art from Collin Street Bakery is a masterpiece, made with 28% Texas pecans and other high quality ingredients, and packaged in a keepsake tin with tableaux of winter festivities (in some place other than Texas, obviously) bracketing a cowboy whirling a lasso in front of the Lone Star and the Alamo. Yee hah!

The reusable tin alone is nearly worth the price of the fruitcake (currently a little under $30 for the two pound Deluxe) and when I was growing up in Dallas more often I saw these packed with chocolate chip cookies or divinity than the original product.

I enjoyed “Corsicana Fruitcake” (the bakery is located in Corsicana, TX) as a special treat at my grandmother’s buffet each Thanksgiving, and had no idea about the ridicule until I ventured out of state. I also have a family connection to Collin Street Bakery because my cousin, John A. Burnett, did their advertising for a number of years.

I like to think John A. was responsible for the unusual entry on their mail order form where you specify in care of whom the gift should be sent. One assumes this is because a large percentage of their orders went to assisted living facilities, and what finer treat could there be to share with your neighbors at social hour?

We are currently at the end of the holiday season so I am going to ask you to get on their email list so you can try it in 2017. Here is a sign-up link which will possibly give you 5% off your first order. Also, keep an eye out for specials… last Cyber Monday they were offering free shipping plus a steep discount when you order two cakes. (Which proves, definitively, that there is more than one fruitcake in the world.)

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Recipe: Umami Butter

Posted on January 10, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Umami Butter

Umami Butter

I happened on umami butter as a sauté base for green beans… fantastic. Also works well with mushrooms. I would consider it for any sautéed food that could benefit from a jolt of this savory accent: steaks, cottage fries, peppers, eggplant. Broccoli and other crucifers I’m less sure about, but give it a try and let me know how it works. Recipe makes 1/4 cup, which you can cool in a ramekin as I’ve done and give to somebody as a gift. (You could also roll it up as a compound butter, but it’s going to be softer than usual because of the liquid component.)

Ingredients:
1 stick unsalted butter (4 oz)
2 t dried bitter herbs (I used mint; shiso or basil would also work), OR 2 T fresh bitter herbs, finely chopped
2 t fish sauce (I use Red Boat)

Unami Mushroom Caps

Mushroom caps sautéed in Umami Butter. Be sure to pour the pan juices over the produce when you serve.

Method: melt the butter over low heat and add herbs; sauté at low heat until they have softened somewhat. (You can reduce the cooking time if using fresh herbs.) Add fish sauce and mix thoroughly. Keep some in the pan for the food prep at hand, and transfer the rest to a heatproof container for future use.

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Recipe: Leftover Banana Bread

Posted on January 5, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Leftover Banana Bread

Leftover Banana Bread

The Eagle Brand condensed milk adds a nice richness to this leftover banana bread. A good thing to make after the holidays when you discover lots of blackened bananas lurking in the corners of your refrigerator. Makes 1 big loaf.

Ingredients:
4-6 very ripe bananas
2 eggs
1 can Eagle Brand sweetened condensed milk
2 T melted butter
1 t vanilla extract
½ c brown sugar (or 1 cup if you like it sweet)
1 ¾ c flour
1 t baking powder
½ t baking soda
½ t Kosher salt
¼ c sliced almonds (optional)

Method: mush the bananas into pulp with a potato masher, back of a spoon or your hands. Mix in beaten eggs, Eagle Brand milk, melted butter, brown sugar and vanilla. Combine flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda in second bowl and mix well. Combine wet and bowls and pour into a loaf pan which has been rubbed with butter and dusted with flour. Bake 350 degrees for 60-90 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan 15 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and continue cooling to room temperature before eating. Good toasted with butter or cream cheese.

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Recipe: Accident Bread

Posted on January 3, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Accident Bread

Accident Bread, ready for sandwiches. I’ve found family members are much more likely to use the bread when you pre-slice it for them.

Accident Bread happened because I was experimenting with Sirvinta wheat, a heritage grain I picked up at the Maine Kneading Conference. I was under the impression it was a high extraction flour but the resulting dough was quite different than expected. I added a few mix-ins to rescue my bake and ended up with a very satisfying result. After the fact, I realized this is a pretty fool-proof formula any time you want to experiment with flours and ingredients. Makes two 2-lb loaves.

Ingredients:
150 g lively APF starter at 60%
800 g water
100-200 g whole wheat or high extraction flour
800-900 g all purpose flour (you want to end up with a total of 1000 g flour)
100 g mixed add-ins which might include rolled oats/wheat, a few gold flax seeds, rye berries
1-2 T Kosher salt (start with 1 T, then taste the dough as it forms)
1 T olive oil
2 T maple syrup (grade B preferred)

Method: Add water to starter in a large bowl and stir with a spoon until starter is dispersed somewhat. Add flours and mix thoroughly until there are no patches of dry flour. Allow to autolyse (rest) for at least 30 minutes and as long as two hours. Add all other dry ingredients and commence to stretch-and-fold using the method described in this post. Do three rounds of ten stretch-and-folds at 15 minute intervals. Before the third round taste for salt and add more if necessary, and add olive oil and maple syrup. After the fifth round (total elapsed time 1 hour) cover and allow dough to bulk-rise for four hours (more or less, depending on how lively your starter is and the temperature of your kitchen). Shape into two loaves and rest 20 minutes.

After resting, transfer loaves to floured couches and rise another 1 ½ hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 460 degrees with cast iron dutch ovens nd their lids inside. This will take at least 20 minutes. Carefully transfer loaves to the dutch ovens (you don’t need to bring to room temperature if refrigerated), slash the tops, cover and cook 20 minutes. Then take off the lids, reduce heat to 430 and bake another 20 minutes or until bread reaches an internal temperature of 206 degrees. Cool and eat.

 

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