Recipe: Mystery Mayo

Mystery Mayo

Mystery Mayo.

Mystery mayo is something you’ve never had before but if you like the surprise element of tomato jam on sandwiches (sweet yet tangy) you will be a fan. It was inspired by a grape jelly doenjang dressing featured in the guest recipe section of Koreatown: A Cookbook. I didn’t have any grape jelly so substituted blueberry jelly; currant jelly (which Craig Claiborne used in surprising ways in his classic New York Times Cookbook) or any tart/sweet fruit jelly would work. And I didn’t have any doenjang so used doubanjiang which is a totally different product yet produced the flavor balance was looking for. Slghtly spicy but with an impossible to identify touch of sweetness. In Koreatown, chef Tyler Kord uses his on a tofu bahn mi that looks amazing; of course it would work in place of dressing on a burger or sandwich.

Ingredients:
¼ c mayonnaise
1 t doubanjiang or doenjang
1 t blueberry jelly or grape jelly

Method: mix thoroughly and serve as a dip or sandwich spread.

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Recipe: Tuna Salad with Cherries and Walnuts

Tuna Salad

Tuna Salad with Cherries and Walnuts.

A place in town makes a Tuna Salad with Cherries and Walnuts but they use chicken. That’s fine, and canned salmon is also an option. Result: turns a boring but reliable sandwich staple or salad into something much more interesting. Make enough for 2-3 servings on lettuce or in a sandwich.

Ingredients:
2 5-oz cans tuna (or one equivalent large can), preferably packed in oil; can substitute chicken or canned flaked salmon
¼ c mayonnaise (or more*)
¼ c toasted walnuts (if raw, cook over low heat in a skillet till they become aromatic)
¼ c celery, chopped
¼ dried cherries, preferably Bella Viva, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Thin sliced red onions, for sandwiches

Method: mix all ingredients in a bowl and let the flavors settle for half an hour or more. (The cherries should flavor the mix as they reanimate.) For salad, just dump a scoop on some of them micro greens. If serving on sandwiches, put mayo on two slices of hearty bread (I used a spelt loaf from Berkshire Mountain Bakery today), add a generous scoop of salad and then a little more, press with knife or spoon to extend the filling all the way to the edges of the sandwich. Layer on thin sliced red onions, slice in half and serve.

*I tend to make my sandwiches too dry for imagined healthy reasons then add extra mayo. You do the same; your result will still be more “healthy” than the sandwich from your neighborhood bodega.

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Recipe: Tonkatsu (Japanese breaded pork cutlet)

Tonkatsu

Tonkatsu (Japanese breaded pork cutlet), sliced for serving.

Katsu or Tonkatsu? The helpful UPB Foods site informs us that katsu was introduced to Japan at the turn of the 20th century as part of Emperor Meiji’s drive to open the country to modern/Western influences. The original dish resembled a schnitzel or breaded cutlet (katsu is Japanese for cutlet) and was made with beef. Over time pork, or ton, became more popular, hence tonkatsu. There is also torikatsu, made from boneless chicken thighs and prepared in the same way. This recipe serves 4.

Ingredients:
1 pound or so boneless pork cutlets, trimmed of fat and lightly salted and peppered
1/2 c flour
1 large egg, beaten
1/2 c panko or cracker crumbs
Oil for frying

Method: if the meat is not already thin-sliced, pound it to 1/2 thickness, using a meat mallet. Prepare a dipping station with the flour, egg and panko each in its own bowl; add a little salt to each. Prepare a wok or shallow pan for frying with an inch of oil; heat to 350 degrees. Dredge the cutlets in the flour, then the egg, then the panko, shaking off excess after each. Fry the cutlets for 2-3 minutes without crowding (the process is quick so you might as well do them one at a time), then turn over and cook another 2-3 minutes depending on thickness. (You might want to taste a slice from the edge of your first batch to insure the meat is neither over- nor under-done.) Drain and cut into strips for serving after it cools to room temperature.

Tonkatsu Serving

Tonkatsu with tonkatsu sauce and rice.

In the US tonkatsu is generally served with rice and tonkatsu sauce in a bento box, but in Japan it might be served over shredded cabbage or in a curry sauce.

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Recipe: Copycat Bulldog Tonkatsu Sauce

Copycat Bulldog Tonkatsu Sauce

Cppycat Bulldog Tonkatsu Sauce.

Tonkatsu sauce is a ketchup/Worcestershire mix served with pork or chicken that has been breaded, fried and cut into strips. Bull-Dog, the most popular brand, has a mystery sweet/astringent element that might come from the prunes listed in the ingredient table but can be (almost) replicated with a bit of lemon juice and a squeeze of umeboshi paste. If you don’t have umeboshi paste (from a sour plum used in sushi) add a pinch of ground cloves (you can grind a clove very easily with a mortar and pestle) or just leave it out. Makes ½ c, enough to sauce a pound of katsu strips (though it’s not a bad idea to double the recipe for leftovers).

Ingredients:
¼ c ketchup
2 T Worcestershire sauce
1 T oyster sauce or soy sauce
1 t lemon juice
½ t sugar
1 t umeboshi plum paste OR 1/8 t ground clove

Bulldog Tonkats Sauce

The real thing. Be sure you’re buying the original tonkatsu sauce; Bulldog also makes a Worcestershire and a sweet sauce.

Method: mix all ingredients until sugar is dissolved and serve with katsu cutlets.

Note: some copycat Bulldog tonkatsu sauce recipes add more Worcestershire or sugar and you’re welcome to tinker with the recipe as you like; just don’t leave out the Worcestershire. It may not taste exactly like Bull Dog but it will be fine. You’re not going for a Japanese flavor profile, by the way, because Bull-Dog sauce was designed to mimic English sauces. More on this heritage here.

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The death of Tex-Mex?

Illustration of a sad plate of nachos

The death of Tex-Mex as we know it. Illustration borrowed from the Axios article.

“The death of Tex-Mex as we know it” was a headline in yesterday’s Axios News. I nearly spat out my taco when I read the words. Fortunately, it turns out the rumors of Tex-Mex cuisine dying are greatly exaggerated in order to create an hombre de paja with facts that don’t really support the writer’s premise.

Fact 1: several old school Tex-Mex eateries have closed recently in San Antonio, presumably the writer’s home base.
Fact 2: regional Mexican specialties such as birria are gaining popularity, presumably at the expense of Tex-Mex.
Fact 3: LA author Gustavo Arellano predicted the death of Tex-Mex in a book but now has changed his mind.
Fact 4: José R. Ralat, the taco editor at Texas Monthly, told Axios he believes Tex-Mex is thriving.

Does that sound like a death rattle to you? Me neither. Relax, and pass the guacamole.

I grew up eating Tex-Mex in Dallas, mostly at an outpost of the El Fenix chain which was around the corner from our house. The foods we ate were simple combo plates including rice, beans and an entrée with cheese melted on top. The waiters would always warn us the plates were hot because they were prepared in advance and quickly heated before serving. The Texas equivalent of a red sauce place, in other words.

Papacito Special

Papitio’s Special combination plate at Avila’s in Dallas.

You could always get other foods at a Tex-Mex place, including steaks and fancy seafood dishes, but we came for the combo plates. After I grew up and moved away I became more discerning in return visits. Avila’s on Oak Lawn was a favorite. I’d take my mother there and she’d order her combo with chicken enchiladas and I would get chiles rellenos, fat ancho chiles stuffed with cheese. Check out Avila’s Yelp page and you can get a taste of what it’s like to eat there, including some very lively commentary from the owner and a detailed history of the establishment.

Any cuisine goes through fads and changes; think of how French cooking was attacked by cuisine minceur in the 80s. I would say this evolution is a sign of vitality, not weakness. The Axios article paints a picture of Tex-Mex as poor people’s food developed out of necessity, with the implication that it will lose popularity as more sophisticated alternatives become available. Nonsense. Every cuisine has simple, popular dishes that satisfy a craving, and crave Tex-Mex I did when I moved to California and there was lots of Mexican food but no Tex-Mex. (Cal-Mex, mentioned by the Axios author, is not a thing.) Wish I could have some right now.

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Food for thought: TikTok Recipe Designers

Chopped Salad

Pierce Abernathy Chopped Salad.

“It’s incredibly satisfying to watch Abernathy make a chopped salad on TikTok, in an A.S.M.R.-heavy video”. That is New Yorker food editor Hannah Goldfield, describing the chopped salad designed by Pierce Abernathy and served up from the Hungry House ghost kitchen in Brooklyn. Of course we had to check it out.

The video is here (watch it on a web browser and you can pause the feed to take note of the ingredients). The salad includes cucumber, apple, Belgian endive, radiccio, pickled onion, chickpeas, green pitted olives, feta cheese, celery and dry roasted peanuts. The mustard dressing includes (with guesses at measurements) 1 t each capers, pink peppercorns, stone ground mustard, clove of garlic, 2 T miso, ½ c of a yellowish coarse powder, maybe parmesan?, lemon zest and juice, olive oil, salt adjusted mixing in a mini-chop.

Grilled Eggplant

Justine Doiron Grilled Eggplant.

Abernathy does not refer to himself as a cook or chef but rather as a TikTok “recipe designer”. So does Justine Doiron, whose @Justine_snacks account has 1.8 million followers. We want to try her recipe for “nasu dengaku” or broiled eggplant, which also appears on her website: cut the top of an eggplant and slice in half lengthwise. Deeply crosshatch both sides and brush on a mixture of ABC kecap manis sauce (dark sweet soy), sambal olek (or a similar chili sauce), miso, garlic. Brush on bake in 375 degree oven for 15 minutes then finish under broiler. Garnish with chopped scallion greens and sesame seeds and serve.

While you are on the web browser, check out the food category and follow a few other TikTok recipe designers. Then go to your app and look for what shows up in the “For You” feed. Hours of fun!

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Recipe: Pickled Shiso (Perilla)

Shiso Pickle (Perilla)

Pickled Shiso (Perilla).

Pickled shiso, aka perilla, is a popular component in an array of Korean banchan appetizers. You can get it jarred, or in the deli case of your Korean market, but it’s much better when made with fresh shiso from your own garden. Makes about 2 c, enough for several appetizer servings.

Ingredients
1 qt clean shiso leaves, stems trimmed*
4 T soy sauce
1/2 t toast sesame oil
1 t gochugaru (Korean chili powder)
2 t sugar
1 garlic clove, minced
1 scallion, including some of the green part, finely chopped**
2 t toasted sesame seeds

Shiso Marinade

Shiso leaves will look like this after mixing with the marinade.

Method: shiso leaves from your garden are probably clean but if you have any doubts rinse them under cold water, spin in a salad spinner or pat with towels, and allow to dry thoroughly. Mix the sauce ingredients in a bowl then add the shiso leaves and massage lightly, turning the leaves, until all surfaces are evenly coated. Cover tightly*** with plastic wrap and allow to cure overnight in the refrigerator. You can serve right away, or keep for maybe a week.

*Leave just a stub of the stem to aid in picking up the leaf with your fingers or chopsticks.
**I was out of scallions so used chives, an excellent substitution.
***I’ve found that fresh shiso leaves last much longer in the cooler if they are not exposed to air. Leave the package open and they’ll quickly turn brown.

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Recipe: The Bear’s Braciole

Bear Braciole

The Bear’s Braciole.

Chef Courtney Storer, sister of the show’s producer, generously shared a recipe for this Italian “family meal” dish which was prepared before our eyes in the 6th episode of The Bear. I’ve made some tweaks which I humbly believe will make it more accessible while fulfilling its destiny as a classic red sauce dish. Serves 8.

Ingredients:

1.5-2 lbs lean beef steak such as round steak or sirloin; buy a thin piece if you can
Cooking twine
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ lb (about 12 slices) prosciutto or equivalent
½ c breadcrumbs: use a seasoned panko or make your own with butter
¼ c grated Parmesan
¼ c grated Pecorino
2 T pine nuts
2 T golden raisins
2 T chopped Italian parsley
2 T chopped garlic
2 T neutral oil, for braising
Your favorite red sauce, a quart or more
1 lb spaghetti or other pasta

Method: start with a thin cut of steak and pound it even thinner, ideally ¼ inch thickness. Cut strips of twine and lay out in a sheet pan with the meat on top so you will be able to roll up the braciola when you’re done. (This source says you should soak the twine in olive oil so it doesn’t stick, definitely a benefit.) Layer in the ingredients in the order listed and, when you are done, tie up into a loaf/log.

Heat oil in a sauté pan and braise the meat, turning to expose all sides to the heat, about 2 minutes per side. This step will set the meat in its roulade configuration and you may be able to remove some of the twine; experiment. Pour over red sauce and cook over very very low heat at least 2 hours until the meat is tender. Add additional liquid (maybe some red wine) as needed.

To serve, cut the log into individual portions and present over spaghetti or other pasta with the sauce.

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Recipe: Shiso Coleslaw

Shiso Cole Slaw

Shiso Cole Slaw.

Shiso Coleslaw, why not? The original recipe used Napa cabbage but it’s nicer to use red cabbage for the red/green contrast. The “beefsteak” notes of shiso work particularly well here but I think fresh mint or basil might work too. Makes 8 servings.

Ingredients:
1 small head red cabbage, shredded (about 8 cups)
1 tart apple, Granny Smith or Macintosh or similar (tart not sweet), cored then quartered and shredded
¼ c fresh shiso, julienne
2 T cider vinegar
2 T mayonnaise
1 t kosher salt
¼ t ground black pepper

Method: shred the cabbage using the coarsest edge of a box grater, then use the next finest edge to grate the apple. The skin will mostly come off; eat it as a snack or discard. Mix in other ingredients and refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

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In which I make The Bear’s braciole

In Episode 6 of the chef drama “The Bear”, the Berzatto family is gathered in the kitchen while dead brother Michael (this is a flashback) tells a shaggy dog story involving the Chicago Blackhawks and Bill Murray. During the process Carmy, the main character, is preparing braciole. The visuals are detailed enough that you could almost—almost—make the dish yourself by following along. The Wall Street Journal was kind enough to print the recipe, from the producer’s sister who is a chef. Naturally, I had to try it.

The concept is simple enough. Take a lean cut of beef, pound it flat, layer on various foodstuffs, roll it up and secure with toothpicks (or twine), sear to set the meat and then cook in tomato gravy for a very long time. I used flank steak per the recipe, but round or sirloin would probably be better for reasons that will become apparent. Carmy’s bracioli are petite things, individual servings, but if you use the proportions in the recipe you will end up with a good sized log you will then slice for serving. Here are some pictures of my process:

Braciole Meat Bsse

A 1.75 lb flank steak was butterflied, then pounded till its thickness was reduced by half. I couldn’t find my meat mallet so I used a rolling pin.

Braciole

The steak base has now been layered with prosciutto, bread crumbs, grated cheeses, raisins, pine nuts, garlic and parsley.

Braciole Assembly

The finished product, ready to sear and then braise in tomato sauce.

Can you spot my error, and the reason not to use flank steak? That’s right, the muscles are running in the wrong direction so it will be impossible to slice crosswise when eating; you’ll have to approach it lengthwise and slice the log apart. And it was still tough after hours of cooking, which I should have expected after eating lots of ropa vieja, a Cuban dish made with the same cut.

It was still good though. The prosciutto (I actually used Benton’s ham) is a non-standard component but adds a nice flavor note. And the dread golden raisins, left out at the request of Richie, are pretty much invisible in the finished product but their sugar is a welcome addition. Perhaps intentionally and mischievously, Chef Courtney Storer tells us to use way too much breadcrumbs. I’ve adjusted my final recipe for half the amount. And it almost has to be tied rather than secured with toothpicks of any size. I’ll post the recipe next, with these revisions and a look at my final product.

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