My Five Most Popular Non-Recipe Posts

Posted on September 26, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers

In honor of Burnt My Fingers’ second anniversary, I’m revisiting our most popular posts of all time. Here are the top five non-recipe posts:

  1. The Sauce that Made Mr. Durkee Famous. This was originally posted on my marketing blog, but didn’t gain any traction till it was re-directed here. I am so happy so many people are curious about my obsession with this product and its provenance.

  2. Turkey Joints from Nora’s of Rome, New York. Another food provenance post, this about a regional upstate New York product. Who says there isn’t interest in our emerging food scene?

  3. Can I Reuse Pickle Juice? I expect this is a question lots of people type into the Google search box, and I am happy to provide the answer. (Short version: no.)

  4. Red Boat Fish Sauce… da Shizz! Red Boat is good stuff, especially the small bottle of concentrated sauce that I dole out so carefully I’ve hardly made a dent in it. Read why and you’ll never buy Tiparos again.

The next two pageview winners are for “About” and “Stuff to Buy” but those are technically pages not posts, so the final spot goes to:

  1. Noonday Onions. A very simple ode to an unassuming but delicious varietal from Texas. I’m surprised to see it rank so high; guess a lot of people are curious about the origin of the peculiar name. Read it and find out.

Next: my personal favorite recipe posts.

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The five most popular recipes on Burnt My Fingers

Posted on September 24, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers

As this blog passes its second anniversary (the first post was An Ode to Poundability on Sep. 20, 2011 though there are earlier posts redirected from my marketing blog), it might be interesting (to me, anyway), to review the most popular recipe posts. Here they are.

  1. Wilted Kale Salad. Although Burnt My Fingers is hardly about healthy living, this well-balanced salad can’t help but make you feel better and live longer. Good choice.

  2. Sizzling Chicken Sisig. If we revisit the list next year, this simple Pinoy bar snack will be #1… it was published in March of this year and already has over 2000 pageviews. The search engines in the Philippines must like it for some reason. Oddly, another Pinoy riff, Adobo Carnitas Style, hasn’t gotten the same traction.

  3. Vincent’s Garlic Cole Slaw. A lot of people would like to have the correct recipe for this intensely garlic-y slaw served at a classic Dallas restaurant, and here it is.

  4. Squash Casserole a la Highland Park Cafeteria. Another Dallas classic, made sweeter by the restaurant’s refusal to publish the recipe and my daughter’s success in sussing it out. (Read carefully: a key ingredient is the broken but not crumbled saltines.)

  5. Vinegar Cole Slaw. This is a surprise to see in the top 5 because it’s so simple. But it’s good. Try it.

Next: the top 5 non-recipe posts.

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Why I’m not buying a Sansaire sous vide device

Posted on September 16, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
Sansaire

Sansaire Sous Vide Cooker

The Kickstarter for the Sansaire sous vide device has taken the world by storm. It’s far surpassed its funding goal and now will include the “reach” of a 220V version, a reference towel included in orders, and a choice of colors for the display. A lot of the love in the culinary community is derived from the fact its inventor is Scott Heimendinger, the Seattle Food Geek who’s now part of the Nathan Myhrvold skunkworks and showed us how to make a sous vide device for $75 with readily available components.

You may remember I did some experimentation earlier this year with the SideKIC, a similar device invented by Duncan Werner (who, yes, was inspired by the $75 plans from Seattle) and reported on my own early efforts. The device has proven reliable and interestingly, our most regular use is to sous vide eggs so they are safe enough to be eaten “raw” in a Caesar salad or can be quickly turned to poached or uniquely fluffy fried eggs.

The Sansaire and the SideKIC work the same way: each hangs over the side of a water-filled container (which can be a cooking pot or a Coleman cooler—the bath never reaches a temperature which would affect the plastic). An electric coil heats the water and a fan circulates it to create an even temperature. The third and final element is a thermostat. That, plus vacuum sealable bags, is all you need for various magical preps in which food is held at a precise temperature for a long time until taste and chemical transformation occurs.

Sansaire has something the SideKIC doesn’t: a cool lighted LED display. (The SideKIC has an old-school color LCD.) It DOESN’T have something that both the devices could use: a timer that will turn it off when you direct. (Update: SideKIC inventor Duncan Werner said it was a design decision; “it’s generally safer to keep the temperature up then to let it drop. If for some reason you left something for an extra hour or so, it might overcook; but it would still be safe. For some things, like eggs, this might ruin it; but better safe than salmonella (so to speak).”)

Sansaire costs $200 and will be available in October-November. SideKIC is available now, from FatLaundry, for $170. Sansaire admits on its Kickstarter site there are still lots of QA and regulatory hurdles ahead. SideKIC is a proven product with a track record of a couple of years. I’m sure mine will give out eventually and then I’ll take a look at Sansaire but for now, I’m sticking with SideKIC.

UPDATE: Scott Heimendinger contacted me to point out a difference I missed: the Sansaire has a 1000W heater vs 300W for the SideKIC. “300W is not a lot of power – it’s just enough to maintain the water temperature in a smaller container, but it’s not quite enough to heat and maintain the temperature in larger vessels. For reference, it’s the same wattage as one of those immersion heaters you’d use to warm up a single cup of coffee. The Sansaire, by contrast, uses a 1000W heating element that can heat and maintain up to 6 gallons of water.”

Actually, I don’t use the SideKIC to heat my water because that seems inefficient. I use the stove to get it near the proper temperature then fine tune it with the thermostat on the device. 1000W seems a lot for a home electrical system. I’ve asked Scott to comment here if he likes… stay tuned.

P.S. In updating my knowledge I ran into this Reddit Q&A with Duncan Werner. Worth a read.

ANOTHER UPDATE: As of January 2015, inventor Duncan Werner may have stopped supporting the SideKIC. It’s no longer available on Amazon or FatLaundry, and the SideKIC website looks not to have been updated in a while.

My SideKIC still works fine and I’ll continue using it till it kicks the bucket. But if you want to buy a Sansaire or another sous vide device, be my guest.

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Finding bargains at Healthy Living Market in Saratoga

Posted on September 15, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers

Healthy Living, the great new Whole Foods-like market in my town, is having its grand opening today from 11 am-2 pm in the parking lot outside the store. Lots of demos, activities and best of all food samples, all for free.  I’ll be there, for sure.

Healthy Living has achieved the nickname “Wealthy Living” from some who’ve compared its prices to other stores. If you’re budget conscious, this may not be the place to shop for kitchen staples. Yet finding bargains at Healthy Living is entirely possible if you know where to look. Here are my favorites:

1. Dry roasted peanuts in the bulk aisle at $3.79 a pound. Best peanuts ever!

2. Turn those peanuts into peanut butter, still $3.79 a pound. The machines are pre-loaded with peanuts and other nuts at the far end of the bulk aisle; hold a container under the spout, press the red button, and don’t forget to turn it of before the container overflows.

3. Cheese remainders in the end cap of the cooler aisle. HL’s cheese selection is excellent and in general priced below cheeses of similar quality at other stores. You can sample and put together a cheese plate for almost nothing with the ends-and-pieces in small chunks which are often around a dollar or two.

4. Bulk Red Star yeast in the dairy department. A small bag, enough for a dozen bakes, will cost you almost nothing and it’s fresher than the Fleischmann’s packets as well as far cheaper.

5. Judicious selections from the olive bar. $8.99 a pound for olives is average for a store like this, but I focus on the little peppadews, cipollini onions and caper salad. You can put together a small antipasto for under $3 which is a generous one-person appetizer on its own or can turn into a salad when tossed with lettuce and a squirt of good wine vinegar.

 

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Taste test: Big Peat blended Islay whisky

Posted on September 12, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
BigPeat

Interesting bottle art on Big Peat blended Islay

I love me a wee dram of Islay whisky. In its best rendition, it remind me of a pair of gym socks which have been washed in the salt water of the cold northern sea, drenched with sweat (and maybe a bit of blood) during an intense rugby game, then dried over a peaty fire. (Thus I don’t like Laphroig, a mass produced brand which reminds me of the sweat without the other nuances.)

I have tasted heaven in the 1991 Bowmore aged in Port barrels. I still have parts of two bottles, squirreled away on opposite coasts, and don’t expect to finish them before I expire. I’ve bought other, expensive bottles and more often than not have been disappointed. Typically, the Scotch is too mild: it doesn’t have the peaty bite which I demand.

Which brings me to Big Peat, which I found on the wonderful klwines.com site. A blended Islay? Ridiculous. But also fantastic. It’s got the peat essence just right, followed by a bizarrely smooth, Dewar’s-style finish which I will forgive because I like Dewar’s. And because it’s a blend it should be available for awhile, unlike other single-cask marvels which excite, then disappear.

This is a product plug with nothing in it for me other than making you happy. Get it at K&L for $56 plus a modest shipping cost (but no tax if you are out of CA). In case they’re sold out, google it. Seems to be widely available which is a good thing.

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Zak Pelaccio pig demo at SPAC Wine and Food Festival

Posted on September 12, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
ZacPelaccioPig

Zak goes at the pig with a bone saw.

The highlight of last weekend’s Saratoga Wine & Food Festival was the demo by Zak Pelaccio, chef and owner of the recently opened and highly regarded Fish & Game in Hudson. Here is a very successful chef with a global empire (earlier restaurants now have multiple branches in Asia) yet he’s funny, casual and utterly non-stuck up. Listening to him is like hanging out with your buddy and exchanging cooking ideas.

ZaksPiggie

On the left: smoked pork loin on pretzel bread with strawberry mustard. On the right: pork face roulade with bok choy kimchee.

In the first part of the demo, Zak broke down a pig and discussed how the parts could be used. I have to say, he spent a disproportionate amount of time on the head. This guy loves pig heads. He marveled at the “Waygu-like” jowl meat, chatted about the disposition of the ears and other parts, then lovingly peeled back the face and rolled it up for cooking with appropriate aromatics. The belly had already been dispatched to a nearby Green Egg smoker (a sponsor of the event) where it was cooking slowly over cherry wood.

ZakAndZori

Jori Emde and Zak Pelaccio cracking up

For the second part of the demo, Zak was joined by his equally engaging wife Jori Emde, who makes all kinds of magic with the local flora found in and around Hudson. Eg. Strawberry mustard with anise hyssop, a wild herb. And fish sauce made with local trout, shad and herring which are salted then cured in a spent bourbon barrel from a local distillery. Zak spent some time discussing the miracles of corn juice which he made in a blender, then combined with fish sauce and spices and whole corn kernels to make a base for the pork belly. And then we ate… and the next few lines of my notes are mostly exclamation points.

Pork BellyCorn

Smoked pork belly atop amazing niblets

Zak (who said this the first appearance they’ve made outside the restaurant since opening Fish & Game) devoted the rest of the afternoon to wandering the event and judging an amateur BBQ competition. I am eager to get down to Hudson and see what else this couple can do. Meanwhile, he gives us all new encouragement to experiment with ingredients because apparently almost anything is edible.

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Recipe: New York Hot Dog Relish

Posted on September 10, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
SabrettSauce

New York style onion-and-tomato hot dog relish

This is my take on the onion and tomato relish served with Sabrett’s and other “dirty water” hot dogs by vendors on the streets of New York. It’s sweet and sour and a little spicy and goes great on hamburgers too. Makes 3 cups.

¼ c salad oil
3 medium to large onions, sliced thin
3 c water
1 T cornstarch
6 T tomato paste
1 T sugar
1 ½ t Kosher salt
½ t red pepper flakes
¾ c cider vinegar

Method: Saute the onions in a big saucepan till limp. Mix the cornstarch with a little of the water till dissolved; add to the onions along with the rest of the water and all other ingredients. Cook over low heat until water has reduced by half and the sauce is thick—probably about 1 to 1 ½ hour. Lasts a few weeks in the refrigerator.

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Saratoga Wine and Food Fest is TOMORROW

Posted on September 6, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
ZakPelaccio

Watch celebrity chef Zak Pelaccio break down a pig and turn it into delicacies!

A little less than 24 hours from now, I hope you’ll join me at the Grand Tasting of the Saratoga Wine and Food Fall Ferrari Festival, where we’ll have lunch, education and dinner in a beautiful setting with what promises to be perfect weather. Tickets are available at spac.org, by calling 518-584-9330 or at the Route 50 Box Office.

I’m going to drop in the event list for the afternoon, but first a few words of advice. a/arrive at noon when the gates open, or soon after, and come hungry; b/even though the events through the afternoon are included in your admission price (except for the Kevin Zraly wine seminar, which is a separate ticket) you may need to make a reservation to be sure there’s space for you, so do this first (ask the ticket taker how); c/give yourself a Grand Tour first rather than just diving in; get oriented as to what is where and plan a logical tasting sequence of spirits, wines, appetizers, savories and dessert; d/even if you’re squeamish, don’t miss the pig demo with Zak Pellachio. I have had the pleasure of seeing Paul Bertolli of Olivo in Oakland break down a pig and it’s a fascinating way to learn what you eat. Bon Apppetit! And now the specifics:

CULINARY TENT COOKING SHOWS

➢ Learning to Cook with Mo Rocca & Mamma Theresa from DZ Restaurants: Inspired by Mo Rocca’s hit Cooking Channel show, “My Grandmother’s Ravioli,” this session pairs the celebrity host with DZ Restaurant’s beloved Mamma Theresa, as she shows him how to make select family recipes and traditional Italian specialties.
➢ Heritage Pig Butcher Demo Led by Chef Zak Pelaccio: The top wine and food festivals in the world have been featuring pig butchering demos as part of a commitment to sustainable, ethical farming and locally sourced food. Chef Zak Pelaccio of the Hudson Valley’s hottest new restaurant, Fish & Game, demonstrates the finer points of butchering a heritage pig and innovatively utilizing the various cuts of meat.
➢ Zak Pelaccio Chef’s Demo: Chef Zak Pelaccio prepares creative dishes using heritage pork and locally sourced produce from the Capital Region and Hudson Valley.
➢ Big Green Egg Grill Games sponsored by the Times Union: TU food writer Steve Barnes judges the final round of competition among Capital Region amateur chefs who will each be given a basket of ingredients and asked to create a unique recipe using Big Green Egg Grills.

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Recipe: Tomato-y Bloody Mary Mix

Posted on September 5, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
Bloody Mary

The unconventional stir stick in my Bloody Mary mix is due to the fact I ate all the Pickled Celery.

Unlike the popular canned brand, this bloody mary mix  doesn’t mask the taste of tomato juice. About 6 servings. A good way to use the leftover juice from your Ultimate Blender Gazpacho.

Ingredients:
32 oz Campbell’s tomato juice
1 T Worcestershire sauce
½-1 t Tabasco
½ t celery seed
2 T lime juice
2 T Sherry vinegar
½ t sugar
1 garlic clove finely ground into ½ t Kosher salt

Method: Combine all ingredients and chill at least 4 hours. Strain out the garlic before serving. Add 1 1/2 oz vodka or just drink the way it is.

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Guss’ Pickles, Oy Vey!

Posted on September 3, 2013 by Burnt My Fingers
GussPickles

Guss’ “New York Refrigerated Fresh Deli-Dill Pickles”

One of the most heartrending tales ever told on Burnt My Fingers is the saga of Guss’ Pickles. I hope you’ll go and read it in its entirety, including especially the comments. But in a nutshell he said, she said, until one entity ended up owning the rights to the name Guss’ Pickles and the other the shop where they were originally produced. (Which she then relocated to Brooklyn… like I said, the saga goes on and on, with occasional sparks of new conflict that flare up like embers in a dying fire.)

I have had it on my bucket list to make it to the Cedarhurst neighborhood of the Bronx and meet with the Liebowitz family which currently owns the name, but that turns out out not to be necessary.  As Adam, who surely is Guss’/Liebowitz’s biggest fan, points out, unlike the competitor’s pickles Guss’ are widely sold including at Whole Foods. And this week they showed up in upstate New York, at my local Price Chopper. Which is why it was, harboring nothing but good will and curiosity, that I brought home a jar of Guss’ New York Refrigerated Fresh Deli-Dill Pickles.

And guess what. They contain vinegar. And while they’re superior to a jarred brand in the relish aisle, they have a lot more in common with mass-produced brands than anything ever cured on the Lower East Side.

The back of the impossible to read label (because it’s printed in a dark color over a clear background) informs us that these pickles are made under license by United Pickle Packers of Demarest, NJ. Maybe the Liebowitz family was convinced they had to Vlasic-ize their pickles to reach a mass market. (Which can’t be true: Bubbies and Ba-Tampte are two examples made with nothing but a salt cure, and they’re widely available at high end markets.) But there can’t be any doubt that Izzy Guss is twirling in his grave like a lamb on a rotisserie.

For me, this is solved. Patricia Fairhurst may have a waspy name, but she’s selling the authentic full sour. Next time I am in Brooklyn I will need to make the pilgrimage to Clinton Hill and ceremonially dip a pickle in honor of Izzy and his heritage which, in a circuitous way, is preserved after all.

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