Coping with climate change at Terra Firma Farm

Posted on November 6, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Terra Firma Strawberries

The best tasting strawberries ever, picked a few minutes previous at Terra Firma Farm

If you grow vegetables in your garden and are never sure what you’re going to get, you can sympathize with the guys at Terra Firma Farm. They’re the grandpappy of California organic farms, started in the late 1980s on land which had been pesticide-free for 20 years before that. One of their first customers was Chez Panisse, and they were the first to make a CSA (community supported agriculture) delivery in San Francisco.

Pablito

Tour guide Pablito

And yet Terra Firma has to deal with unpredictability just like everyone else. It has barely rained in two years in Winters, CA where the farm is located, on the edge of the Central Valley between San Francisco and Sacramento. The water table has fallen from 50 to 80 feet during that time. Terra Firma is fortunate because 80% of its water comes from Putah Creek, a tributary of Lake Berryessa, a reservoir that does not connect to the larger state water system. But the declining water table might have been evidenced in a dying walnut grove just inside the main entrance.

kale inspector

Kale quality control inspector at work

We were there for the annual Farm Day, which welcomed friends who were mostly CSA members with a technical bent. Pablito, one of three partners, took us on a tour and explained where the vegetables and fruit come from. A recent success is the cross planting of cilantro rows among kale; the cilantro attracts a hover bee that lays its eggs in aphids, which attack the kale. But these measures work for a while, then stop working for unknown reasons.

The much dryer and warmer weather has created its own set of new problems. The Bagrada bug, a fast-reproducing stinkbug that recently emigrated from Africa, ruined 10% of the kale crop this fall. It thrives on warm, dry weather which is these days the only kind they currently have.

Double rainbow at Terra Firma Farm

We ended Farm Day with an auspicious double rainbow.

One flashpoint is the delicious strawberries: a CSA member asked why they are still growing these thirsty plants in light of the drought. The answer is that they’re the most popular crop along with tomatoes; in past years the CSA would lose 20% of its customers prior to the first tomato crop and they’ve ended that slide with strawberries. So economic reality trumps ecological concerns, at least this time.

I will tell you that these strawberries, gleaned at the peak of ripeness when they were far too tender to ship, were the sweetest and most delicious I have ever tasted. The endless rows of kale (we’re near San Francisco, remember) and ground crops like carrots and potatoes looked as fine and fat as they could be. The land is enriched with many generations of legumes which have been plowed under, organic compost from nearby wineries including the must of wine grapes, and the leavings of sheep who aerate the ground and chop up the ground cover while providing some delicious lamburger sliders. And yet farming here is a process of hope and discovery and keeping fingers crossed, much as it must have been for the ancient Babylonians.

Cherish your food. And for god’s sake, eat your vegetables.

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Recipe: Bacon Croutons

Posted on November 4, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Bacon Croutons

Mmm… bacon croutons

Bacon croutons… got a problem with that? The key is to use very dry cubes of bread so they become glazed with the oil rather than sopping it up. Dedicated to my college girlfriend Nerissa who used to feed me fried bread (she was from the UK).

Ingredients:
4 c bread cubes, approx. 3/4 inch square, very dry (let them sit on the counter for a couple of days, or dry in the oven at low heat)
2 T bacon grease
2 T olive oil
1 t granulated garlic, or 2 cloves very finely chopped fresh garlic

Method: heat the oils in a large skillet to medium but below the smoking point. If using fresh garlic, dump it in and saute briefly till it starts to release aroma. Add bread crumbs and toast 5 minutes, tossing frequently. If using granulated garlic add it now and toss to coat the cubes. Use within a day or two, or save up to a week in the refrigerator.

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Recipe: Salat Maloof (Egyptian Cole Slaw)

Posted on October 31, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Egyptian Cole Slaw

Egyptian Cole Slaw

There were a lot of Egyptians in Dallas when I was growing up, and the technique for the garlic makes me think this might have been the inspiration for Vincent’s Garlic Slaw. Egyptian cole slaw has a mild, refreshing taste that pairs nicely with Middle Eastern entrees–or, maybe some barbecue. Adapted from Middle Eastern Cooking – Foods Of The World. Serves 8.

Ingredients:
1 small head cabbage, coarsely chopped (about 4 c)
1 small clove garlic
½ t Kosher salt
¼ c lemon juice
¼ c olive oil
2 T fresh mint leaves, chiffonade, or 1 T dried mint, crumbled
¼ c pomegranate seeds

Method: finely chop the garlic and then mash it into the salt, using the side of the knife blade, till the mixture becomes a paste. Place in the bottom of a serving bowl, add lemon juice and olive oil and mix thoroughly. Add chopped cabbage and toss to mix. You can serve immediately, but it’s better if it sits an hour or so. Sprinkle shredded mint leaves and pomegranate seeds on top before serving.

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Recipe: Armenian Pilaf

Posted on October 28, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Armenian pilaf in its cooking pot

Armenian pilaf in its cooking pot

The browned spaghetti adds a bit of texture and flavor that turns regular pilaf into Armenian Pilaf. My ex-wife learned this from her next door Armenian neighbor and I was surprised to find it’s a popular dish on the internet. Serves 8-10.

Ingredients:
½ c dried spaghetti, vermicelli, angel hair or other stick pasta, broken into 1 inch pieces
1 ½ T butter
1 ½ T olive oil
2 c basmanti or other long grain rice
1 c chopped onion
3 c chicken stock
1-2 t Kosher salt or to taste

Method: heat a dry saucepan to medium and add pasta; roast 5 minutes or so, tossing the pan frequently to turn pasta, until it starts to turn a golden brown. Do not let it burn. Remove the pasta to a plate and add butter and oil to the pan. Saute the onion till translucent then add rice and sauté a few minutes more. Add stock and 1 t salt and bring to boil; taste and add more salt if needed. Cover and simmer on very low heat 20 minutes, then turn off heat without peeking and rest 20 minutes. Fluff with a spoon before serving; rice should have completely absorbed all liquid.

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Recipe: Tabbouleh*

Posted on October 23, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Tabbouleh

Tabbouleh with added bulgur to soak up the juice

I don’t like tabbouleh that is overbalanced toward starch or greens, or tabbouleh that is mild vs tart. This one nails the flavor balance. Adapted from Middle Eastern Cooking – Foods Of The World (I reduced their recommended salt by 50% and doubled the amount of bulgur). Serves 6-8.

Ingredients:
1 c bulgur wheat
Boiling water
1 c flat leaf parsley, stems removed, coarsely chopped
1 c onions, finely chopped
2 T fresh mint leaves, cut chiffonade, or 1 T dried mint, crumbled (optional)
3 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1/3 c lemon juice
1/3 c olive oil
1 t Kosher salt

Method: bring bulgur to the boil in a small covered saucepan with double the amount of water by volume; turn off immediately when it comes to the boil and let sit 20 minutes or until it loses its crunch. Drain in a fine sieve and press out excess water with a paper towel. Add to serving bowl with all other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Tastes better if it sits an hour before serving, but don’t keep it past the next day.


Due to the price and variability of fresh lemons these days, I have started using Lakewood Organic Lemon Juice in recipes calling for lemon juice. It tastes good and costs about the same as fresh, maybe less.

*updated recipe as of 3/18

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Foods of the World: Middle Eastern Cooking

Posted on October 21, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Foods of the World: Middle Eastern Cooking

My well-used copy of the Middle Eastern Cooking recipe guide

Some 40 years before Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem,
Time-Life Books introduced American home cooks to the wonders of Middle Eastern cuisine with its Middle Eastern Cooking – Foods Of The World. Some of the books in the series dumbed down the flavors and simplified the ingredients but this was the real deal, unapologetically endorsing calves’ feet, lamb’s liver, pomegranate juice and an otherwise conventional skewered swordfish recipe that includes 30 bay leaves.

I was lucky enough to have access to this book as a tyke, and it gave me one of my first cues that there was good food to be had beyond fried chicken and black-eyed peas. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I recently acquired a well-used copy and have been discovering it anew. The preps in general are pretty straightforward, but the way the ingredients are combined creates some flavor excitement.

I’ll be sharing my take on a few of the recipes from time to time, but it’s worth springing for your own copy. There’s both a hardcover coffee table book and a spiral bound recipe guide. Normally I’d just recommend the latter (which I believe includes recipes not in the hardcover) but the context is important to some of the dishes so I’d say if you have to buy them separately get them both. Don’t pay for any condition higher than “acceptable” since you’re going to be spilling stuff on it.

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Recipe: Cheese Steak Sandwiches

Posted on October 16, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Cheese Steak Sandwich on one of my Po' Boy rolls

Cheese Steak Sandwich on one of my Po’ Boy rolls

I use mustard which anyone from Philly will tell you is heresy. Fine; all the more for me. Makes 3 sandwiches.

Ingredients:
1 lb shaved steak*
1 medium onion, sliced
1/2 lb sliced mushrooms (optional)
Olive oil
Yellow mustard
Vinegar peppers (recommended, if you can get them) or pepperoncini, crushed pepper spread etc.
6 slices sharp or regular Provolone
3 8-inch Po’ Boy rolls or generic sub sandwich rolls

Method: Heat a generous spoonful of oil in a skillet; add onions and saute till limp; add optional mushrooms and saute till light brown; add shaved steak and saute, moving it around in the skillet, till it has lost any pink color. The meat will give off a lot of liquid; continue cooking 2-3 minutes to reduce it slightly.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 degrees**. Slice each roll lengthwise and slather a generous amount of mustard on each side. Spoon on 1/3 of the steak/saute mixture and a couple spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Add a good helping of peppers then finish with two slices of Provolone. Wrap tightly in aluminum foil and bake 20 minutes or until cheese is melted. Eat right away.

shaved steak

Shaved Steak

  • To make shaved steak, freeze a sirloin or other tender cut (or defrost a frozen steak) just to the consistency when you can cut it with a sharp knife. Shave into very thin slices. Don’t worry about the appearance of the slices since everything will melt together in the sandwich.

** If you have some hard, stale rolls you can actually heat the assembled sandwiches in the microwave and save 15 minutes. But fresh, tender rolls will yield an unsatisfactory, mushy result.

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Recipe: Po’ Boy Rolls

Posted on October 14, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Po Boy Rolls

Po’ Boy Rolls (the third one in had an accident with its plastic cover during proofing)

These are a little softer and more compliant than most of my breads, which makes them good for po’ boys, subs, hoagies etc. Evolved from this thread on The Fresh Loaf which in turn attributes it to a succession of other people. It’s all good. Makes four 8 inch rolls.

Ingredients
375 g all purpose flour
50 g rice flour
1.5 t instant yeast
1 t salt (approximately 8 grams)
1 T sugar (approximately 15 grams)
1 T dried milk powder (approximately 10 grams)
300 g lukewarm water
2 t softened butter (approximately 10 g)

Method: place everything except the butter in a Kitchenaid/orbital mixer bowl and mix on low speed 2 minutes till thoroughly combined. Add butter and mix on second speed 8 minutes until dough is well developed but still sticky (it should barely clear the side of the bowl). Remove dough hook, cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a plate and rise 90 minutes or until doubled.

Po Boy Dough

Proofing…

Turn the dough out on a floured board, divide into quarters, form into balls, cover and let rest 20 minutes. Shape each ball into a cylinder about 8 inches long and place on a silicon non-stick sheet on a half-sheet pan. Cover and proof at room temperature until doubled, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425 degrees. Spray the rolls generously with water and bake, with steam, 20 minutes. Turn the pan and lower heat to 375 degrees and cook another 20 minutes or until brown, but not dark.

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Where to eat lunch in Saratoga Springs, NY

Posted on October 11, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers

Welcome to my fellow bloggers who are in town for Wordcamp on October 11, 2014. Here’s where to eat lunch in Saratoga. The following list is not exhaustive but covers the spots I recommend. These are quick, grab-a-bite places so sit-down spots are not included (though some of these do have seating).

In order of distance from the City Center at 522 Broadway:

  1. Hungry Spot. 480 Broadway, next to City Hall. Hole-in-the-wall with decent sandwiches.

  2. Mrs. London’s. 464 Broadway. World-class pastries; somewhat precious quiche and sandwiches on croissant or baguette.

  3. Comfort Kitchen. 454 Broadway. Great burgers, mac and cheese and other comfort food made with ingredients sourced from local farms. Go in the arcade entrance on Broadway, then down the stairs and all the way to the back.

  4. Putnam Market. 433 Broadway. Gourmet grocery and take-out store with a serve yourself buffet and sandwiches made to order.

  5. Alpha Dog. 6 Phila (walk down Broadway to Phila and turn left). Hole in the wall serving a wide variety of hot dogs.

  6. Four Seasons Natural Foods. 33 Phila (walk down Broadway to Phila and turn left). Pretty decent vegan buffet.

  7. Parkside Eatery. 42 Phila (walk down Broadway to Phila and turn left). Gourmet caterer has its own smoker. Brisket, pastrami and other sandwiches; excellent soups; hot and cold entrees sold by the pound.

If you want to get in the car:

  1. Roma Importing. 222 Washington (drive down Broadway to Washington, turn right, drive down Washington about ¾ mile). World-class Italian deli with great subs and sides.

Also, almost forgot: there’s a Farmer’s Market in High Rock Park, down the hill behind the City Center. Exit toward the parking lot, go down several flights of steps till you reach the next street which is High Rock. Turn left and walk a block or so down to the Farmer’s Market. There is a pavilion as well as several individual vendors selling prepared foods. If you like to drink or cook with buttermilk, get some from Argyle Cheese Farmer. It will blow your mind.

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Vinegar Peppers

Posted on October 9, 2014 by Burnt My Fingers
Vinegar Peppers

Casa Visco Vinegar Peppers

We’ve talked about sport peppers and Pastene ground peppers and Crystal hot sauce, but vinegar peppers deserve their own post. They’re an Italian American specialty item in which greem bell peppers are pickled in a mild white vinegar bath. The brand I commonly see in stores in upstate New York is Casa Visco, a Schenectady-based processor. Amazon has no idea what a vinegar pepper is, but you can mail order them from Pastene as long as you don’t mind a hefty shipping charge.

The classic application of this product is “Pork Chops with Vinegar Peppers” which is just what it sounds like. Get some thick pork chops, salt and pepper to taste and sauté them in fat, either their own trimmings or bacon grease, along with some sliced onions and some diced potatoes which have previously been boiled till almost tender; at the last minute toss in some vinegar peppers along with a little of the juice. Easy, foolproof and delicious.

I have also had vinegar peppers in cheese steak sandwiches, an application to which my teenagers are especially partial. If you want to make your own, recipes are easy to find on the internet. The jarred peppers are still crunchy, not fully cooked but not raw either. I expect they are blanched to just the right stage by having boiling pickling liquid poured over them and then being immersed in the canning bath. I haven’t tried this myself, however, and probably won’t since the commercial product is of good quality and so readily available. One of the few indisputable benefits of living in the cold and the snow.

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