Category Archives: Food Heroes

Inspired and inspiring cooks, bakers, producers and purveyors of food.

How Cheese Traveler sells artisanal cheese in the land of mild provolone

[UPDATE: in early 2018 the Cheese Traveler was sold to a long time customer who plans to keep its selection and vibe intact.] Eric Paul was one of the first food people I met when I moved to upstate New … Continue reading

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15 Church brings big-city ramen to Saratoga

Your weekend plans have just changed. You are headed to 15 Church in Saratoga Springs, where chef Brady has whipped up some world-class ramen to celebrate the seasonal closing of the patio. This is not poser ramen broth but deep, … Continue reading

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The Italian Trade Commission comes to Price Chopper, and that’s a good thing

Why are Italian delis filled with shelves of enticing jarred and canned foods, but not American or Jewish delis? Why is your supermarket stocked with box after box of Italian pasta in shapes you could never imagine? Because the Italians, … Continue reading

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Farm-to-table pizza from Nine Miles East Farm

I first tasted pizza from Nine Miles East Farm of Schuylerville, NY (which is 9 miles east of Saratoga where I live) at the home of a health-conscious friend. She raved about its natural goodness and how the two-day fermentation … Continue reading

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Battle Mandram: A family history

Judy Cromwell is a longtime friend who frequently comments on my recipes. She agreed to share her Mandram recipe and contributed this bonus description of her family’s tussles with this dish through the decades. Chef Otis’ interest in recreating southern … Continue reading

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David Murdock, the pineapple king

While writing my recipe for Carrot Pineapple Jello I experienced the following unusual economic behavior: Unlike almost other canned fruits and vegetables, there was no store-brand alternative available in my local supermarket. Only Dole. Unlike other products which offer a … Continue reading

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A visit to the Casola Dining Room at SCCC (Schenectady County Community College)

There are two things that the Casola Dining Room has in common with the legendary Chez Panisse in Berkeley. First, you have to call exactly two weeks in advance of your desired dining date and time to have any hope … Continue reading

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Uncle Steve’s Arribiata Sauce

I have a soft spot for celebrity pasta sauce. First, I think jarred sauce is pretty generic so most any attempt to dress it up is likely to yield positive results. Second, I totally buy the notion of the pressured … Continue reading

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Coping with climate change at Terra Firma Farm

If you grow vegetables in your garden and are never sure what you’re going to get, you can sympathize with the guys at Terra Firma Farm. They’re the grandpappy of California organic farms, started in the late 1980s on land … Continue reading

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Men, fire and food: a visit with Bruce Frankel of Spitjack

Bruce Frankel was a chef with an idea. Tired of long hours and not great financial success at a Boston nouvelle cuisine (remember?) fine dining place in the 1980s, he decided to do something entrepreneurial. He looked at molecular gastronomy … Continue reading

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