Old Thermy, our vintage Thermador Professional range
UPDATE: a little more than two years after this post was written, our Thermador went to the big kitchen in the sky. See this post to meet the replacement.
A couple of years ago we moved into a house with a Thermador Professional 48” range already in place. It has two ovens, 4 burners, a grill and a griddle. The larger oven is big enough to accommodate a sheet pan; the smaller has a proofing function, which I appreciate as a bread baker. A similar range is currently being marketed by Thermador but ours is one of the very first in the series, built around 1990. The model number is GCR484GG.
Burner grate, grill and griddle are built to last
We’ve had two “semi-pro” ranges in our last two houses, a Dacor and an NGX. The immediate thing you notice that’s different about the Thermador vs these competitors is that its burners and stovetop grates are made of really heavy cast iron, like commercial stoves. The tiny holes in the burners can get clogged and you clean them out with a paper clip-like tool, but the burners themselves seem indestructible. And they’re super hot, each putting out 15,000 BTUs. You can ruin a saucepan really quickly if you don’t pay attention.
We use the grill and griddle quite a lot and have learned to adjust for their eccentricities. The heat source is obviously two converted round gas elements so there are hot spots in the middle and they cool off toward the edges. But the thick steel on the griddle and the well-designed fake charcoal surface under the heavy grill make this less of a problem than it might be. These two surfaces also come in handy when we’re cooking on the burners because we can offload a pot (without spilling, please) to a heat-safe holding area.
What we don’t love about this range is the electronics. With an old-school restaurant stove, you light the pilot each day with a scrap of paper; consumers wouldn’t stand for that plus it would probably be illegal for home use (as are a number of other features on a commercial stove, which is why you can’t just buy a used stove from a restaurant supply and bring it home). Our range has piezo electric clickers like most home ranges but they seem pretty reliable. (And there are always matches to fall back on.) But our broiler in the big oven doesn’t work, which means the self-cleaning function doesn’t work.
The sellers of our house thought the problem was the latch on the door, the thing that locks it shut when self-cleaning begins. I found a replacement switch on eBay and installed it myself, but the switch itself was $270 and it didn’t fix the problem. Our excellent tech from Best Appliance came out and said the broiler element was bad. I found a replacement broiler element for $100 and he installed that, but we still can’t use the broiler because now it turns out the thermostat is bad. A used thermos for this model on eBay can be as much as $600 (if you can find it, which I haven’t so far). My tech is advising that these stoves have a life expectancy of 15 years and we are pushing twice that, so should be looking to replace it.
We still have the original manual, copyright 1990
Replace? A new Thermador range (or a BlueStar, the other brand I’d consider) with the same features costs $12,000. I’m also tempted by Thor, a Chinese brand that gets great reviews on Amazon and costs a fraction of this price (now maybe a lot more, with tariffs). I would never buy another Thermador based on the terrible customer service reviews they get plus the fact they discontinue their spare parts after about 8 years. That’s why I am scrambling for used parts from salvaged stoves instead of simply ordering from the manufacturer as you’d expect.
But in the meantime, I’m grateful for the parts of Old Thermy that do work and keeping fingers crossed they’ll last a little longer.
The salient comment about your Thermador range is that it was manufactured in 1990 with a fifteen year life expectancy. Most likely time for a replacement. Yet, if this item satisfies 90% plus of your desired uses then you are good to go with keeping the current range. So some parts do not work for you, but if you have gone without these features since you acquired this home . . . I suspect you are doing just fine. From your comments the stovetop works and the large oven works, you can do a lot of work with what you have. I am confident you can find many other uses for the $12,000 price tag of a replacement. Wow! If you want to broil go outside and fire up the barbeque grill. I know, hard to do that in the winter, but it beats shelling out all the Benjamins.
I should rewrite the post with more outrage. Here is a beautifully designed mass of chrome and steel, with 99% of the functional pieces able to last forever but at the mercy of the 1% electronics which can fail. PLUS, after putting their well-heeled customers at their mercy by making them depend on Thermador (which was later acquired by Bosch, another set of characters) pats, they decide to no longer provide them 8 years after manufacture date which means customers have to buy a new stove.
I meant parts above.
It was a quick look since I don’t exactly know what I’m looking for, but part ApplianacePartsPros.com says the original part number was 20-01-498 and their replacement is out of stock. But I searched the part number and found this
https://acpartsdistributors.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40&products_id=138180
Not an original part, but any chance that’s what you are looking for?
Thanks Jon. I did get a double post, so I left the other one Pending.
The actual part number for this specific thermostat is 2001765, later renumbered as 486944 when Bosch took over the company. I’ve found a replacement that is one digit off but am assured by multiple techs that it’s got to be exact… there are so many variables of temperature control, probe form factor etc etc. I go on eBay every week or so to check on new listings and someday I’ll get lucky. There is also a service that rebuilds your old thermostat but you have to do quite a disassembly to get it out and then you’re without use of your oven.
Oh well. Thought I might be onto something. AppliancePartPros.com has helped me fix a few things. This reminds me of the scene in the old movie My Bodyguard when they are looking for the last part to a motorcycle.
Is this it? No.
Is this it? No.
Is this it? No.
Is this it? No.
Is this it? No.
Is this it? Wooho!
Good luck finding the part. We are currently in the same boat. Everything on my oven works, but the broiler is useless.
Appliance Part Pros is a good resource I hadn’t seen before. Unfortunately when I typed exact part number there was no match.
the obsolescence must be an industry thing: same thing happened with my Dacor ovens. The double ovens are controlled by one motherboard, and if that goes the part is no longer made. They also told me 15 yrs on life expectancy. Frustrating.
Eggs-actly. And scavengers are making big bucks by salvaging parts from junked stoves, testing them to see if they work, then selling for hundreds of dollars on eBay. Seems like the appliance manufacturers could earn some goodwill, and a little money too, by licensing somebody to continue to manufacture these orphaned parts (or just letting the electronics provider, which is probably a third party, sell them independently).
I’ve already decided I’m not going to pay $600 for my thermostat if I find one used. It is obviously a part that can fail and I don’t know how much life is left in it. I’ll pay a much lower price or bite the bullet and have mine rebuilt. Or just continue without the broiler… I do have a grill up top and a broiler in the smaller oven. But it’s the principle of the thing. I would like to have a fully functional stove that can be used for many more years and there is no logical reason that should not be possible.
We had a Dacor range in San Francisco and didn’t have problems with it, but the heat output and sturdiness was not what I would consider professional grade.
I have the exact same range (or close)! Where on the range did you find the model number as I can’t find mine? The two grates over the burners are very worn. Any suggestions on where to get either new or used?
Thank you
The model number on mine was under the kickboard–metal plate above the floor, below the ovens. You must not have the very heavy cast iron grates that I do. They will last a lifetime, as will the stovetop burners, which is why I’m sad the electronic parts are giving out. If you look for “Thermador range parts” with your model number on eBay several vendors will appear. I’ve dealt with Dr. Frankenstove and a couple of other folks and have had ok retail experiences though the parts still aren’t working because other parts need repair as well.
I have the same one and now it’s so old, in 2023, that the cast iron grates are starting to show some failure! so these beasts can last 30+ years, though the grill is broken on mine. However the next time something major breaks I will replace the whole stove, since it’s really showing its age with rust and wear even to some of the super solid metal parts.
If you poke around you will see that my Thermador was replaced with a Bluestar Platinum during the pandemic for which I have zero regrets. It’s impossible to get parts for the Thermador so let it go. And don’t get another Thermador considering how poorly they support their owners.
Is there any way possible that I can get pictures of the parts schematics emailed to me?
I may be able to find the schematic, though it’s for the whole range. Is that what you’re looking for? And are you looking to fix your range, or offering to fix mine?
I am looking at buying a used one and anticipating needing to buy parts.
If possible, the whole range parts schematics and part numbers
ok, I’ll look for the schematic and email it to you if I find it which I expect I will. (WordPress gives me your email address thought it’s not public.) I assume you’ve read through the post and the comments and understand your search for parts is likely to be disappointing!
I’m in the same boat with trying to service my own (GCR 484 GG). I was as excited to find this post as I was to find the model number (no, it’s not behind the bottom panel where the wiring diagram is like newer models, it’s behind the removable grill box).
My grill and griddle are both not working and after testing the burner assemblies, I can only assume that a gas valve is not actuating since when I turn it on, I can’t light the burner with an aim-n’-flame. The oven came with the house and I’d love to cook a burger or some pancakes on this guy.
The old owner mentioned that the griddle thermostat was broken on ours and after reading your post and the comments, I’m still keeping my fingers crossed for my endless weekend project.
Good luck with the new oven on your end! Looks wonderful!
Thermostats seem to be a big problem on those old Thermadors. I believe the griddle and the grill are on the same thermostat but with different sensors. One time our grill gave out but the griddle continued to work. You can find old Thermador thermostats on Ebay but they are ridiculously expensive (way north of $500), and you have no assurance they will keep working after a complex install.
One of the things that sold us on the BlueStar is that it’s just a big lug like a Model T with mostly mechanical, vs electronic, parts. There is no thermostat for the nifty grill/griddle cartridge obviously because it can be moved from burner to burner. The manual tells you for 350 degrees heat it on high for 5 minutes then low for 3 minutes (not real numbers, an approximation of the instruction) which seems like a pain in the butt until you realize that’s how you preheat a cast iron pan.
Hi there, wondering if you can help me. I was wondering if you could share the wiring schematics from the panel to the stove
email sent. hopefully this is what you are looking for.
I appreciate this post. I found myself nodding in agreement as I read the post and resulting comments. I have a Thermador PGR486GLLP/01 circa 2003. Both ovens are returning a 4,3 error, which I believe is a cooling fan issue. The odd part is that the fans are clearly running (they are kind of loud) and the oven lights without a problem (gas), so I assume the sail switch is not functioning which is probably telling its tiny brain to shut the ovens off. If I re-start it a few times, it eventually works fine and will run all day without a problem, but I would like it to work right. Licensed Thermador tech advised that the fan unit is no longer available/discontinued (I think it’s part# 00486894). It’s just so maddening to have this nice, enormous, beautiful stainless range and, as you said, “be at the mercy of 1% of the components”. If you’re willing to deal with occasional repairs/parts, there’s no reason this thing shouldn’t last a lifetime. Thermador was happy to tell me that I have surpassed the expected service life of 15 years. Jeez… Anyway, I do see those fans listed on eBay sometimes and I’ve also heard of people pulling them out and having them rebuilt by electric motor repair shops. I just need to find an appliance guy who’s willing to do this kind of “cobble together” work for me. Anyway, it’s nice to know I’m not the only one with this struggle!
Thermador’s customer service the WORST! I will never buy another one! They’re beautiful, but God help you if a part goes bad. You are at their mercy. I have an old model #PG486GEBLP/03. I’m on my 3rd griddle and REFUSE to buy another one at 600+. Just ridiculous! Does anyone know what these griddles are made of? Thinking about having a cast iron one made using the old one as a mold. I use cast iron pans and they last forever! Thoughts?
Thesilverspade@aol.com
Is your griddle cast iron? I googled the part number and found a similar SKU with a cast iron griddle. So does it crack under heat? Old Thermy, the stove I originally wrote about, had a stainless steel griddle that was pretty much indestructible. I’ve replaced it (due to lack of ability to get parts) with the BlueStar I’ve written about in other posts (do a search on this site). It has a cast iron griddle which you can add when you need it and it’s pretty good though I am not likely to use it enough to season it well.
If you’re willing to share the wiring diagram, we would be so thankful!
We just moved into a house with the exact same model. Our realtor assured us it would be an easy fix, these things last forever, etc. Alas, that hasn’t been the case!
We had an appliance tech out this morning and he said he could restore more of the functionality if he had a wiring diagram– which is why you find me here!
You bet. We scanned the schematics for another reader last year so it should be easy to send though it’s a very large set of files. Please send us the email address you use in the “got a beef” contact form and they’ll be on their way.
Thanks! I submitted the form. You’re like the patron saint of lost and confused GCR484GG owners!
That would be true if I could convince Bosch to start making the discontinued parts, but thanks anyway. Files are on their way. It’s a lot of MB so let me know if they don’t come through and I’ll send individually.
We have the same model but dual fuel. The large oven just stopped heating. We don’t know if it’s a fuse or what. Is there any way we could get a copy of this manual and a schematic? If we can’t get it figured out then I’m sorry to say we will have to get rid of it.
This is the second request we’ve had this week and we do have a scan of the manual; will put it up on the website this weekend and send you the (unpublished) link via direct email. Sadly, your best option may indeed be to scrap the stove. We did that and are very happy with our BlueStar. On the one hand, hated to see a mostly functional device go to the junkyard. On the other hand, we love our new non-problematic stove and wish we had make the switch sooner.
One thought though: the oven suddenly not heating does seem like it might ba a fuse problem. Any repair tech should be able to run a multimeter and diagnose, even if they have no specific Thermador experience.
Thanks for the reply. We are not able to figure out where the fuse is to check it. Hoping the manual will tell us.
Just checking to see if you have put out a copy of the Thermador manual yet. Thanks
Yes, and I sent you an email with the links. Check your spam folder. Or just follow the links below. These are for the schematic; the manual isn’t of much use. The “middle” scan is because I had to split the page for one photo and this will show you how to put it back together. Good luck!
https://burntmyfingers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/ThermadorMiddle.jpg
https://burntmyfingers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Thermador2.jpg
https://burntmyfingers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Thermador1.jpg
https://burntmyfingers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Thermador3.jpg
https://burntmyfingers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Thermador4.jpg
Mr. Fingers – Thanks so much for sharing the story of your range and quest for a thermostat. I am in exactly the same boat: Same Thermador model, same malfunction, now looking at BlueStar ranges but not wanting to toss the mostly functional Thermador in a landfill. I am going to take a run at the hill and try to replace the thermostat myself if I can find one, but I needed the wiring diagrams that you have provided. Much appreciated!
Best of luck Steve and let us know how your project goes. I gave up after I saw the prices for used thermostats on eBay, with no guarantee they would work. There is one guy (you’ll find him when you start searching on eBay) who will rebuild your thermostat for you, but you have to get it out of the stove and do without your oven while it is gone.
Anyone know how to calibrate this oven? We have one at my mom’s house, it is 25yrs old and the big oven is off by 75 degrees. I can’t find the instructions for it.
You most likely need a new thermostat which is one of the most expensive things to replace. On eBay a used one goes for $600 or so with no guarantee other than the seller’s word it will work once you install it and no idea how long it will last. New parts are not available as you know from reading this thread. With my Thermador, now long gone, I gave up on replacing the oven thermostat.
Thermador Crew – A quick follow up to my post from (Argh) nearly a year ago… I found and purchased a replacement thermostat on eBay for $900!!!. I took apart the range front control panel, removed and replaced the thermostat and….. the oven still has runaway temperatures. So I don’t know if I have had two bad thermostats or both thermostats were good and it is something else…… Clue: During operation the oven emits audible “clicking” sounds which could be indicative of a failed relay. I am now assuming my thermostat is good and am on a quest for the 30″ HWR (hot wire relay) for this range. If anyone has an original parts list or manual to share I would appreciate it as it could expedite my search. Also, if anyone on the string is still looking for a thermostat that is probably functional, I know where you can find one. 😉
This is exactly what I expected would happen to me if I tried replacing my thermostat, instead of the decision to junk a mostly functional range. Steve, if you think it might be useful, maybe you could post the steps you took to take out the thermostat and replace it?
We own a 48″ pro PD484GGEBS/01 (approx. 16 years old). Have paid technician to replace the control board 2-3 times over the years (live in mountains, many power outages … surge?)
got a 43 error code about 2 months ago.. took off back… watched as oven heated up, fans go on just fine at 300 degrees… sail switches open and close properly.
Ordered a temp sensor…installed….yesterday…. NO more error codes! no flashing lights… YET oven doesn’t heat in a regulated fashion. It reaches assigned temp and either exceeds the temperature or drops below.
Looking for another part. Was told that this unit does NOT have a thermostat. The temperature is regulated by the control board. Is this true? Control board costs about $280. on RepairClinic.com and is available. No reliable technicians will come up here. Venturi tubes look difficult… is the control board easy to replace?
Your Thermie at 16 years is much younger than the one I had and that folks talk about on this thread, so it’s possible the electronics changed during that time. Maybe someone else has insight on control boards? If you can replace it for $280 and solve the problem that’s a relative bargain… see the experience with the poster just above you.
Thanks, Burnt My Fingers.
Update: we turned off range at breaker, waited a bit, turned back on and the range seems to have ‘rebooted’. All working fine! (fingers crossed)
Just an FYI, the 43 error my NOT be fans or sail switches. Replacing the temp sensor worked for us.
That’s great and useful news for those with relatively newer Thermadors. Maybe for me too: I’ve got a massive Whirlpool refrigerator with some non-working LEDs. I’d been advised to unplug it to reset the unit, reboot as you say, but getting it away from the wall is a chore. Now, like you, I’ll just flip the breaker!