Food for Thought: Emily Contois

Posted on March 2, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers

Thank you internet, for bringing me Emily Contois. (Actually, thank you WordPress, which featured her blog on a showcase page.) Here is a Brown PhD candidate who has written her dissertation on “Dude Food” and blogs about such topics as “Food Themed Protest Posters” (actually that post is an interview with the author of the equally fascinating Food and Resistance site). In short, someone who delves into all aspects of the relationship of food and our social fabric… exactly what we need.

For me, the most interesting stuff is at the bottom of the page, from the blog before she got serious about her graduate studies. That’s where you’ll find such articles as “Tofu & Tapenade? The Unspoken Food Rules of Football” and “Food & Chefs as Sexual Metaphor in Romance Novels” which in turn contains a link to “Porn Sex vs. Real Sex: The Differences Explained with Food” on YouTube. (Be warned, that last is an autoplay… extremely NSFW.) Check it out.

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Hepburn’s Choice is my choice in single malt scotches

Posted on February 28, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Hepburn's Choice

A couple of majestic examples of Hepburn’s Choice bottling. More on the way.

[2018 UPDATE: sadly, Hepburn’s Choice has disappeared from the K&L inventory as specialty Scotches become harder to come by. This page has the background and some bottles, all now unavailable, that will make you drool.]

Hepburn’s Choice is a private label bottled by Langside Distillers, which despite the name does not operate its own distillery. It is marketed exclusively in the U.S. by K&L Wines, and the bottles are always cask strength which means somewhere north of 50% alcohol. The buying team seems to go for outstanding specimens of a particular distillery or region which can be sold as an excellent value, especially with the current USD/pound exchange rate.

Since I no longer live in California, I keep my eye out for Hepburn’s Choice releases and order a bottle or two which, now that New York’s liquor police have clamped down*, must be put on hold for me until I can make it back to California. I used to stick to Islays but took a flyer on the Dailuaine at right above, which chief buyer David Driscoll described as “so fruity and delicious that we practically jumped across the negotiating table to get our hands on it.” Now I realize I trust these guys so much that I’ll try any Hepburn’s Choice bottle within my price range ($60 or so tops, a bit more for older casks).

I called K&L (877-KLWines) yesterday to let them know I was going to be past the 90-day deadline in picking up my latest purchase (“no worries,” said the very friendly chap on the phone, “we’re terrible about enforcing it”) and ask if there was any Hepburn’s Choice on the way. By chance, he said, David Driscoll was sitting next to him. A bit of back and forth and it was confirmed a container is on the water right now with new announcements expected very soon.

Notice the numbers on the labels: these really are limited quantities, in the few hundreds for each bottling. If this blog had thousands of daily readers I wouldn’t share this news because there wouldn’t be any left for me. We’ll keep this as our little secret, okay? If you are lucky enough to live near a K&L store, or if you live in a state that accepts liquor shipments, I recommend you bookmark their site then check back often.

*As far as I can determine, if your are the producer of a wine or spirit, you are allowed to ship it to New York but if you are a retailer you are not.

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Food for Thought: No Place Like Kitchen

Posted on February 23, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers

I was tumbling down a rabbit hole in search of a recipe for morkovcha, which is a Korean-style Uzbek carrot salad, when I landed on the wonderful No Place Like Kitchen website. Not only does Olga provide some of the most accessible Russian home-cook recipes I’ve found, but she writes like Boris and Natasha talked on the old Bullwinkle cartoon show.

Here, for example, is her description of the mysterious “Olivie” which according to my friend Leo always makes an appearance at Russian ex-pat picnics: Salad Olivier was named for a French chef Lucien Olivier [aha!], but this is not his original recipe (it was lost). Soviet cooks simplified the similar recipe and now this is the most popular salad for a exUSSR holiday tables. Variation with chicken meat is called Stolichniy Salad (Capital Salad). Some add onion, fresh cucumber and sour apples, some put on top shrimps or crab leg. Even carrot is latest edition for this plain winter salad. Here are some rules: number of potatoes equal number of eaters, never mix hot and cold foods.

Now you’re in love with Olga, right? And you will like her even more when you see her photo on the About page, where she is inexplicably balancing two small pumpkins above her head like Mickey Mouse ears. And I haven’t even tried the recipes yet. Check it out.

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Food for Thought: Dr. Ludwig’s “Always Hungry?” diet

Posted on February 21, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Shepherds Pie

Always Hungry? Shepherd’s Pie

I needed to lose a few pounds before a surgery and my wife recommended I read Always Hungry? by Dr. David Ludwig, a Harvard nutritional researcher. In a nutshell, the eating method (which Ludwig does not call a diet, and which he does not promise will make you lose weight) in this book resets the body’s insulin function so you are less likely to crave foods that are unhealthy for various reasons, including packing on the pounds. The more moderate version of the diet has you limiting (not eliminating) simple carbohydrates such as white sugar, white potatoes, white flour, white rice and alas, alcohol. But there was also a extreme, fast-start version with a two-week meal plan and that’s what I opted for. I wanted to see how these foods tasted as well as how they affected me.

The best thing on the diet (and according to Dr. Ludwig this is a pretty unanimous vote) is the Shepherd’s Pie shown above. Its base is a funky Eastern European melange of chopped onion, fennel and cabbage mixed with ground beef and on top of that, substituting for the potatoes, a poultice of ground cauliflower and cannellini beans. It’s delicious and filling and I would happily eat it on its own merits. Dr. Ludwig’s Frittata is another excellent dish, as the original recipe for the shrimp curry I modded here. In fact, virtually everything I’ve covered on the blog for the past month (since my fruitcake post) would fit into the regimen.

Does it work? I’m now back to regular eating with very few concessions to the plan (I’ll substitute sweet potatoes for white potatoes when I can, for example, a change that’s hardly punishment) and hovering at a good 10 pounds below my starting weight. A key is that the good doctor includes a good amount of treats (dark chocolate! whipped cream!) which keep you from feeling deprived so you’ll stick with it. You can still eat brisket (as long as it’s not sauced, but we would never do that) and Snow’s beans and cole slaw* so there’s reason not to investigate at least. Check it out.

*One minor tweak: you can’t use Hellman’s/Best Foods mayo for the cole slaw because it contains sugar, so you’ll have to find a sugar-free brand or make your own, possibly using Ludwig’s not-bad eggless recipe.

 

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Recipe: Giardinara (Mixed Pickled Vegetables)

Posted on February 16, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Giardinara

Giardinara

Here is a simple Giardinara recipe that uses no oil or sugar so the fresh flavor of the vegetables comes through. Feel free to vary based on what’s on sale/looks good/is on hand. Makes 3 quarts.

Ingredients:
1 medium head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets
2-3 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1 inch chunks
4 stalks celery, trimmed and cut on the bias into 1 inch pieces
2 large carrots, peeled and cut on the bias into 1 inch pieces
1 bulb fennel (optional), peeled and cut on the bias into ½ inch pieces (so you can tell it apart from the celery)
½ c salt
3 c white vinegar
2 c water
2 T dried oregano
2 t salt
1 t crushed red pepper (adjust to taste; this amount will give a nice kick)
1 t celery seed
3 or 4 bay leaves
6 cloves garlic

Method: prep the vegetables and transfer to a large stainless or glass bowl. Add ½ c salt and mix with your hands so all surfaces are well exposed to the salt. Add water to cover and let sit on the counter overnight. Drain and pack into jars (sterilized if you’re going to can it, just clean if you will keep it in the refrigerator).

Bring the water and vinegar to the boil with 2 t salt and spices in a saucepan. Turn off the heat and let the mixture steep for a few minutes. When it is warm but no longer hot, strain through a fine mesh strainer and pour over the vegetables in the jars. Add more vinegar and water as needed in the same ratio of 3 parts vinegar/2 parts water to completely fill jars. Seal jars and refrigerate, or can using your usual method. Allow giardinara to cure to least 3 days before serving as a condiment or sandwich ingredient.

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Can I turn leftover Buffalo wings into Korean Fried Chicken?

Posted on February 14, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
KFC from Buffalo Wings

Best Way Buffalo Wings, respawned as Korean chicken

“I’m sick of wings now that the Super Bowl is over,” writes no one in particular. “Is there any way I can turn leftover Buffalo wings into Korean Fried Chicken wings?”

Yes, though there’s a small caveat. Unless your wings were breaded or battered to begin with, they won’t soak up as much sauce as from-scratch KFC. But they’re still mighty good, and a nice change of pace that will rekindle your enthusiasm for these fatty extremities.

Method: make the sauce according to our recipe for Korean Fried Chicken or Easy Korean Chicken, adjusting the proportions for the amount of wings you have. Heat the wings in the microwave or on a cookie sheet in a 350 degree oven until they are sizzling. Transfer to a metal or glass bowl with tongs so the Buffalo sauce drips off and stays behind. Toss with the Korean chicken sauce and allow to rest at room temperature for at least two hours, then serve.

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Recipe: Adventure Bread with Steel-Cut Oats

Posted on February 9, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Josey Baker's Adventure Bread

Adventure Bread toasted with melted butter… so good.

Josey Baker’s Adventure Bread is wonderfully hearty stuff… dense and flavorful with the nutrition and energy you need for a long hike, or maybe a march for a worthy cause. I’ve modified* the original recipe to use steel cut oats. Makes one loaf that you’ll cut into four 8 inch by 2 inch bricks. (Note that you’ll need to buy an 8 inch by 4 inch non-stick bread pan if you don’t already have one. You can also fill the pan halfway up and bake in two pans, which I did for the loaves pictured here.) THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN REVISED AS OF 4/19. If you’ve made it using my previous recipe please use this one in the future.

Ingredients*:
235 g (2 1/4 c) steel cut oats
600 g (2 1/2 c) water
160 g (1 c) sunflower seeds, hulled
65 g (1/2 c) pumpkin seeds, hulled
90 g (3/4 c) almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped OR a combination of almond flour and almonds
120 g (3/4 c) flaxseeds
25 g (1/3 c) psyllium** seed husk
25 g (3 T) chia seeds
15 g (2 1/2 t) Kosher salt
40g (2 T) maple syrup (Grade B preferred)
55 g (1/4 c) olive oil

Method: bring water to boil and pour over oats in a heatproof bowl; soak overnight. Toast the pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds in a 350 degree oven until lightly browned, about 10-15 minutes (don’t let them burn). Add seeds and all other dry ingredients to oats and mix thoroughly. Add maple syrup and olive oil and mix again; taste for salt and add a bit more if needed. Transfer to an 8 inch by 4 inch bread pan which has been rubbed with oil or butter. Bake 1 hour or longer in a 400 degree oven or until bread pulls away from sides of pan. (Longer baking, up to 1 1/2 hours, doesn’t seem to hurt.) Turn out on a rack and cool at least two hours before slicing, then cut lengthwise into two loaves with a sharp serrated knife. Enjoy as-is or toasted with butter, nut butter or cheese.

*There are some discrepancies between the weights in grams from Josey’s cookbook and the cup/spoon measurements so I’ve provided both and you can use one or the other, but do it consistently. I’m sure the original loaf was a very ad-hoc effort so you are fine making modifications and substitutions.

**Psyllium, pronounced “silly-um”, sounds like something out of an Uncle Scrooge comic but it’s essential to bind the ingredients since there is no gluten. To add to the merriment, psyllium is usually marketed as a colon health product though you may be able to find it in the bulk baking goods section.

UPDATE: on a return trip to San Francisco I picked up a comparison loaf of Josey Baker’s bread… see below. For this prep I used rolled oats not steel cut (that’s why mine looks more raggedy) and also upped the salt a bit since I realized his cookbook recommendation is too cautious. Meanwhile, he’s been tweaking his recipe according to the published ingredients: he now uses sesame seeds instead of pumpkin seeds and has eliminated the chia seeds. Regardless, both loaves taste great.

Adventure Bread Comparison

Adventure Bread comparison (mine is on the left)

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Recipe: Sweet Potato Salad

Posted on February 5, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Sweet Potato Salad

Sweet Potato Salad

Why not? Sweet potato salad is a nice change of pace from “regular” potato salad, better looking, and better for you. Serves four, though the recipe is very extensible.

Ingredients:
1 large yam, about 1 lb
¼ c diced dill pickle or pickle relish, drained
¼ c finely chopped onion
¼ c roast pepper cut julienne, OR ½ red or green bell pepper, diced
¼ c mayonnaise
½ t salt
Pomegranate seeds for garnish (optional)

Method: peel the yam and cut into 1 ½ inch chunks. Boil in salted water until just tender, about 15 minutes. (Sweet potatoes cook faster than white potatoes, it turns out.) Drain and mix with other ingredients, mashing slightly as you go. Refrigerate at least 2 hours to blend flavors. Serve with optional pomegranate seeds sprinkled on top.

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Results of our Buffalo Wing Taste Test

Posted on February 3, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers

As promised, I’m sharing the results of yesterday’s taste test of Oven-Baked Buffalo Wings. All were cooked in a 400 degree oven for 50 minutes and sauced with Frank’s recipe for a butter/hot sauce combo, so the variation is in what happened before the wings hit the heat. Here are the judges’ preferences, from worst to best.

  1. Alton Brown style steamed wings. The steaming takes out a lot of the fat, which is maybe why some people appreciated this method. But we like fat, so this was a big dud.
  2. Brined. I thought the brine might seal in the juices and make for a moister wing, and it did. But one of our three tasters scored this a zero (for the texture? Or extra salt from the brine? She wouldn’t say, just that it was trashcan material) thus knocking it out of the running.
  3. Hooters-style with the wings dredged in flour, then dipped. The extra layer added complexity, which I appreciated. But other tasters wanted to get right to the meat.
  4. Just plain wings, straight out of the package. Everybody loved these, maybe because there was nothing not to like.
    And, the winner….
  5. Plain wings, dipped in sauce just before cooking. The sauce caramelized and created some nice pockets of flavor here and there, putting these over the top. But the difference vs. just plain wings was subtle. Both scored far higher than the other three contenders.

Are you surprised? I was. On the other hand all the preps except steamed tasted pretty good to me, which is what I’ve found in two previous Buffalo wing judgings. It’s just hard to mess up wings, unless you over or under cook or go cheap on the sauce or, god forbid, use meat that is past its prime. Maybe I would appreciate the subtle variations more if I was a native New Yorker; I can imagine a Northerner saying that all brisket tastes the same, absurd though that statement is.

Anyway, isn’t it nice that the best prep is also one of the easiest? The recipe, if you need it, is here. Enjoy the game… Go Cowboys! What? You say they’re not playing? Okay, then forget it.

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Recipe: Best Way Buffalo Wings

Posted on February 3, 2017 by Burnt My Fingers
Best Way Buffalo Wings

Best Way Buffalo Wings

Best Way Buffalo Wings because they’re the winner in our five-way test. The prep has been slightly tweaked to bring it to easy perfection. Allow 8-12 wing pieces per person, so this base recipe will serve about 4.

Ingredients:
1/2 c Frank’s Red Hot Sauce (regular style)
1/3 c butter (2/3 of a stick)
4 lbs chicken wings
Salt and pepper

Method: preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine Frank’s and butter in a saucepan and heat till the butter melts. Dissect the wings, separating the flats and drumettes and saving the tips for chicken stock. Place wings in a bowl and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over about half the butter/sauce mixture and toss to coat thoroughly.

Spread the wings on sheet pans which are lined with parchment paper or silicone sheets. (Recipe will require two half sheet pans, because you want the wings nicely spread out so they’ll cook evenly.) Roast in 400 degree oven for 20 minutes, then turn and roast 30 minutes more or until reddish brown and crispy. Toss in remaining sauce (don’t use the same bowl as for the raw chicken unless you wash it) and serve immediately, with carrot and celery sticks and Buttermilk Blue Cheese Dressing for dipping.

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